15/03/2024 Springbank

Springbank 21yo (46.5%, Atom Supplies Darkness Limited Edition, Oloroso Sherry Octaves Finish, b#115): nose: as fruity as the first time we tried this, though with a notable difference: grapes (since it is mostly grapes) are much riper, today, and have started to turn vinegary. It is not quite caramelised red onions, rather red-wine vinegar. That slowly dissipates, which allows fresher darker fruits to surf into view on a wave of rancio: plums, blackberries, lingonberries. Of Springbank itself, a vague earthiness permeates, then polished black-marble floors in a country manor on a sunny day. Wooden furniture is not far behind, and a wooden crate of onions from the market, ready to be stored in the cellar. With some imagination, one can picture the horse and cart of the street vendor. That is right: hidden behind those fermented fruits and waxed floors is a subtle farm-animal touch -- one that grows in power too. The second nose focuses more clearly on prunes and coffee grounds, which takes one back to the breakfast room of many a B&B. It has nectarines too, showing up on the late tip. Mouth: wide and voluptuous, it is also quite drying, in an earthy way. Chewing brings back some of the vinegary fruit, next to crusted earth, dried by the hot sun. Slowly, a dark-berry paste climbs on top of that that feels almost rubbery. It is far from the bitterness of new-car-door joints, and much closer to toasted black cumin, burnt tyres from decades ago, and smashed elderberry. There is even a note of ground mocha. The second sip insists on said mocha -- the posh kind, that coffee enthusiasts describe as having notes of lychee (and who is tOMoH to point out their nonsense?) It is more nectarine than lychee, here, but it is a fruity freshness alright. The coffee touch becomes very clear, once again flirting with rubber. Finally, mocha chocolate and chewy elderberry sweets join the party. Finish: it is a bit of a time bomb, with seemingly not much happening for several seconds. Then, a pleasant warmth settles in and rolls out flavours. We have prunes, black cumin, liquorice allsorts, just a pinch of coffee grounds, elderberry syrup, blackberry jelly, all presented on heated tarmac. Aside the shy earthiness (black cumin or gunpowder black tea), it is tricky to find the Springbank DNA in here. Much of the talking is the Sherry's, or so it seems. The second sip hits the roof of the mouth with a shovelful of chewy sweets (elderberry flavoured), which helps swap the coffee note for dry potting soil as a side effect. A distinct sweetness lingers on the tongue, alongside that earthiness, both a legacy of the Sherry cask again. It dies with an earthy blackberry jam spread on rye crispbread. This is excellent, and better with each sip. All the same, I am slightly less thrilled than last time. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)