18/03/2024 Tamnavulin

Tamnavulin 25yo 1973/1998 New Century (45%, Glen Stuart Exclusive Limited Edition, C#4869-4870): nose: unlike the usual custard-y profile we tend to observe in Tamnavulin, this has a crisp, fruity white wine (Chablis), and a citrus-y quality to it. Limoncello comes to mind, though one without a raffle ticket on the bottle. It has something waxy too, far from the engine grease that, say, a Clynelish might have, but clean candlewax or plasticine. Unexpected and unannounced, a green note appears -- peony or rhododendron leaves, waxy in any case, though it stops short of ivy. Vine leaves, maybe? Yes, that is it. One can easily imagine the terroir too, crumbly earth over a shale layer. White wine still hums in the background. As one tilts the glass, the afore-mentioned plasticine grows more assertive, closer to rubber -- think of a grey electrical-cable jacket. There are plums too, plump. The second nose feels a tad more mineral, chalky, and the white wine becomes sweeter in the same move. We have a generous Montbazillac, now, and a custard thickened with corn flour. Mouth: it is a river of plum juice, with a bitterness that would convince one they are drinking from a rubber recipient. It is mellow as fleshy plums, fruity, and, well, softly bitter. Here too, that takes one back to candlewax and waxy green leaves (peonies? Rhododendrons? It is probably not wise to verify), and red grapefruit, particularly its skin. The second sip has kerria Japonica flowers, a pinch of spices (powdered ginger), and citrus zest so dry it is hardly recognisable. The acidity lives, however. Finish: aaaaaand here is the custard! Hot plum pulp, umeshu, and tame caramel coulis poured on flan. Further sips confirm the gently-citrus-y custard. Butter comes to the rescue, and, if it is not sticky toffee pudding (it lacks in the chocolate department), it is from the same family. Something peculiar appears towards the death -- something vegetable-like; boiled swede, or turnip cooking water. It is original, and minor enough a note to be easily overlooked for those who are not keen on it. Excellent drop. 9/10