09/03/2026 Auchentoshan

Auchentoshan 23yo 1992/2015 (46.6%, Cadenhead Small Batch, Bourbon Oak Barrels, 456b, 15/260): nose: it starts off with a stripping whiff of pure alcohol. Industrial cleaning alcohol that one can easily imagine is used to make metal plates shiny. However, after a couple of minutes' breathing, it opens up and starts pushing fruits -- pineapple, tinned peaches, warm mango slices. Aha! It goes from fresh and tropical to stewed and preserved in a short period of time, and we find ourselves navigating jams and jellies: apricot, peach, but also poached apple. It has a gentle pastry thing going on, buttery shortcrust dusted with confectionary sugar, but nothing over the top. That pastry becomes bolder and more eggy, and I swear pastel de nata, a note that I read last Friday and that I have never used myself to-date (I think), is applicable, here. It soon becomes brighter and fresher, with tinned grapefruit segments and Mirabelle plums, followed by ground roasted nuts (which is less fresh). In the end, we catch a glimpse of caster sugar turning green with mould, and Verdigris. Wait! That is not the end: the Verdigris morphs into dried sage, after a while. The second nose has limoncello spilled into an open toolbox: sticky screwdrivers and wrenches smell of citrus. A minute later, we find a spoonful of confectionary sugar spilled in the same toolbox, and a pinch of dried sage. Mouth: it is a tad metallic on entry; moss-covered zinc and oxidised sheet-metal coils. Chewing cleans that up, gives us shiny metal once more, reminiscent of a razor blade, or a pencil-sharpener blade (though not as pronounced), which means it has a certain bitterness. There is a green side too (spurge) and an unripe-fruit aspect too, with bitter pomelo or satsuma that barely has any juice yet. Keeping it in the mouth long enough, it ends up giving some juice alright, with so much green-citrus peel that it will not be for everyone. The second sip is juicier, sweeter. Kumquat, bergamot, physalis in syrup. Only when chewing does one remember the metal (still a blade), yet it is so doused in fruit juice it is nothing to read negatively. Is there a pinch of ground white pepper, maybe? Furious chewing unveils something else: the stuffy velvet interior of an American town car left in the sun for too long. Finish: although green here too, the fruit starts to show a stronger personality. It still exhibits citrus, riper now, and paired with yellow fruits such as Mirabelle plum and physalis. That may well be served on a pewter plate, yet there is hardly any moss, let alone Verdigris (which only affects copper anyway). The second gulp is more-openly fruity; it revives the pineapple from the nose, couples it with pomelo and Shaddock, then augments the whole with dried bergamot foliage and one Kaffir lime leaf. Once the whole is sufficiently integrated, it is served in a metal ladle. It is the stainless steel of that ladle that gives us the final note: still full of the fruits it comes in contact with, but also confidently metallic and, therefore, a bit bitter. The lingering impression is that of chocolate-flavoured whipped cream, though, and that is delicious. This will probably have its detractors, while others will love it. Strangely enough, I had it a couple of days ago (from the same bottle), and it felt like a different dram altogether. Go figure. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, Psycho)