27/03/2026 Ardbeg for International Whisky Day

Ardbeg 20yo 1992/2013 (46.6%, Whiskybroker.co.uk, Refill Hogshead, C#434, 222b, b#4): nose: similarly to last week, we find ink, tarry sand and crushed seashells (oysters and mussels). It is also quite farm-y, today, which was not obvious upon first encounter. Boggy tracks, muddy farm paths, ploughed fields. There are some toasted cereals too, which, coupled with the afore-mentioned sand, give a tame impression of crystal that is difficult to comprehend, let alone describe. It then gains a certain sweetness akin to sugary milk laced with melted tar and poured on warm cereals. Next up is a mugful of chicory infusion spilled on cardboard, yet sand and tar soon catch up again, this time with a slightly more-pronounced dash of sea water. The second nose has braised leeks, more ink and grape-flavoured chewy sweets. It has hazel bark on fire, but it seems to have otherwise lost all farm-y character. It circles back (did I really use that phrase?) to sweetened milk and chicory infusion, in the end. Mouth: pretty sweet upon entry. It is neither corn syrup, nor maple syrup; it is closer to lukewarm milk with a lot of sugar, but sweet it is. Chewing unleashes a big puff of thick, dark smoke that contracts as quickly as it expanded. It leaves behind oily Virginia tobacco, honey on slightly-burnt toast, and that sweetened milk. We find some mocha too, which tells of a gentle bitterness. Distant diesel fumes are the only sign this was ever farm-y. After a couple of minutes on the tongue, crushed seashells do re-emerge timidly. The second sip has cold coffee made with sea water, chicory granules on which water is poured that is not hot enough to dissolve them, and honey-coated Mokatine. Oh! yes, how did it take me so long to identify Mokatine? It still has ink, a drop of petrol and (less) tarry sand, yet not much smoke to speak of. Finish: a punch in the gob, it is not breath-taking, but certainly bold. Dark smoke from burning fruit-tree wood, a dash of sea water -- scratch that! It is vase water or stagnant mushroom-cooking water. Yes, after some time, we have a lingering lick of dried shiitake or dried oyster mushrooms, and also the water used to rehydrate them, albeit served separately. This is peculiar. The second gulp has Mokatine fished out of an ashtray. Indeed, if it stays sweet and earthy, it suddenly also becomes very ashy -- ashes that revert back to embers and provide a satisfactory glowing warmth. It is not one of the great, but it is perfectly competent. 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, PF)