24/06/2018 Springbank Maltbarn Dinner relived

A month ago to the day (unintentional), I attended the yearly Springbank dinner, as part of the Campbeltown festival. For some reason, I took no notes then. However, hefty pours then meant I could take samples for later. Later is now.

That was then

This is now

Longrow d.2007 (57.3%, cask sample, Sauternes Hogshead, C#697 229): nose: warming and syrupy, this has lots of thick jams -- elderberry, strawberry and dark cherry, as well as fig relish. The whole is cloaked in the thinnest veil of smoke. Actually, the smoke grows and reveals smoked, caramelised pears and fresh turf. Mouth: soft, with a tiny tingle. It has more of that deliciously-smoked fig jam. It is thick and coating, without being sickly. Marmalade, likely. Again, the thin smoke is well present. Finish: here, the smoke is more pronounced; it has the typical dryness of the Longrow peat, with sun-dried farmland paths, tractor saddles and chewing tobacco. The finish is still sweet, too. The jam subsists, but it is more timid, at this point. Nice. 7/10

Springbank d.2004 (56.2%, cask sample, Rum Barrel, C#207 188): it is unclear whether this is a Springbank or a Longrow. The stencil clearly states Springbank. Nose: it seems dry and sugary at the same time. Pineapple cubes, grapefruit zest, mixed peel, even mince pies and a note of what seems like fresh paint. This is ester-y! Garden herbs join the dance (basil and chives), fresh and crunchy. Perhaps some sea air too, fresh and invigorating. Mouth: sweet, with pineapple cubes again, dried-banana slices, Chinese gooseberries gone bad (well, past its prime, at least), acidic, with grapefruit jelly. Finish: this is now teeming with those dried fruits (pineapple cubes and grapefruit jellies), but this time, it is joined by a delicate lick of smoke, and this time, it is less farmyard and more fishing nets. That makes for an odd combination, but it works. In fact, it works better this morning than at the dinner. A breakfast whisky, then! There is a mild, plastic-y note that will prevent a higher score. 7/10

Longrow d.2000 (47.3%, cask sample, Fresh Sherry Butt): nose: this one is immediately dry, ashy, with incense, burning wick, gunpowder, brimstone, matchbox striker, spent fireworks. On the other hand, it has digestive biscuits, poultry food and roasted corn cobs. Later, a peatier side appears, with germolene (an antiseptic cream), anchovies, iodine and sea shells. In the far back, fig skin struggles to make itself known. Mouth: softly bitter, the palate has guaiacol, lots of gunpowder, shards of cinnamon bark and dried shellfish. This is rather salty, really, with seaspray and salty moss water. All trace of fruit from the nose is but a memory, at this point. If anything, there might be a stripping drop of lemon juice. Finish: this bit is still as coastal and salty, though what dominates here is a distinctly sulphury and smoky feel: gunpowder, dirty shotgun barrels, smoked crabs, smoked mussels, fishing nets, dried smoked kelp, and the mild bitterness of plastic buckets. This was chosen on the night to be bottled for the guests. Today, I am not sure. I might prefer it the Rum cask. 7/10

24/06/2018 Clearing the shelf #18

La maison ne recule devant aucun sacrifice. Two tastings in one day -- yeehaa!

Ord 12yo 2006/2018 (46%, Cadenhead Small Batch, 2 x Bourbon Hogsheads, 606b): nose: it smells like a strong white wine -- Chablis or Chardonnay. Very quickly, though, a cereal-y note appears; boiled corn and mashed potatoes, perhaps marsh water, too. Plastic tablecloths in a warm cupboard. Mouth: despite the modest ABV, it packs a punch with the acidity of a young white wine, crushed grapes, finely-ground hazelnuts (skin on). Finish: it is more approachable, here. It has milk chocolate, augmented with crushed raspberries, squashed grapes, toasted staves and freshly-printed newspaper. Very good drop, really. Hard to beat, for the introduction price. 7/10 (Thanks for the sample, SW)

Light Fruity Sherry 44yo 1973/2018 (43.4%, Cadenhead Creations, Fresh Sherry Hogshead Finish, B#1, 346b): nose: this could not be more different. It has all sorts of woody goodness, starting with teak cabinets, furniture polish, wax, juicy orange peels, butterscotch, but also cardboard and used blotting paper. Soon, the fruits join in (dried figs, mince pies, the darkest sultanas), a cake in the early stages of baking and lacquered shoes. Mouth: soft, velvety, almost weak, and woody. Not in a bad way -- it has treacle, sticky toffee pudding, Scottish tablet, Madeira wine and maraschino cherries. Finish: excellent balance of exotic wood (mahogany, teak, redwood) and fortified wine (Sherry, Port, Patras). Red-fruit jams pay a visit too (dark cherries, raspberries, blackberries). At second sip, it appears just a little too woody, for a second; bitter. It is mainly exquisite, though. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, SW)

Glenrothes-Glenlivet 21yo 1996/2018 (50.9%, Cadenhead Small Batch, 3 x Bourbon Hogsheads, 990b): nose: at cask strength, this is of course much stronger. It has Glenrothes's trademark butter, as well as clotted cream, warm white-chocolate mousse -- I can feel my arteries clogging up, already! Aside his fattiness, it has cedar-wood shavings, pecan nuts and candied ginger. Mouth: oily, it is initially soft, then grows in spiciness -- it is a karahi, more than a Madras, but the tingle is there. Carrot cake, melted milk chocolate, sunflower oil, and still quite a bit of butter. Baking chocolate-chip cookies, not yet solidified. A drop of fortified wine -- to improve the cookies, you know. :-) Finish: the chocolate turns darker, and it is accompanied by fruit, this time -- dried banana slices, dried pear cubes, banana rum, perhaps white Port. The finish is still fat, with a mild acidity. Nice little 'rothes. 7/10 (Thanks for the sample, SW)

Glen Marnoch 28yo (43.4%, OB Distiller's Reserve for Aldi UK, b.2016): nose: as the colour suggested, this is a much deeper sherry, with lots of wood influence. Also, despite the humble ABV, the nose is very powerful. Shoe polish, freshly-cut ebony, wood lacquer, overdone toast, flat cola, caffè macchiato, caffè corretto. Mouth: velvety and under control, in terms of alcohol -- though not tired in any way! The palate has a lot of spices -- cassia bark, cloves, black cardamom, liquorice root. It is just on the right side of woody -- just! Finish: huge finish, with a couple of crushed mint leaves, dried, grated ginger, liquorice, kluwak nuts and aniseed. This is now a bit too much for me. The wood is overpowering. One can still find elderberry, or cranberry compote, fruity and acidic, if one tries hard. It is good, but one really has to like wood a lot. 7/10 (Thanks for the sample, CD)

17/06/2018 Winding down

After yesterday's event, many of the attendees pop in to drop things off, say good bye or carry on. It is a much more relaxed affair, and I mostly take no notes, not even of who has what. With a few exceptions.

sonicvince comes and goes, to catch his early train. He is replaced by dom666, kruuk2 and JK, who have a cheeky starter dram. CD, PG, EG and CB go straight to the lunch place... and are turned away, because it is fully booked. We have a backup plan, no guarantee it will work out. CD phones in.

CD: "We are at the venue. Are you coming?"
JS: "No, the place is fully booked. Join us here, we will go to the backup place together."
CD: "It's a bit far. There is a McDonald's down this road; why don't you join us there?"
JS: "Well, we thought we could have some whis--"
CD: "We'll be with you in two minutes!"

And indeed they arrive. I tease CB that I have been inviting him for ten years, and when he does show up at last, he is driving and cannot drink.
We start with Littlemill 28yo 1985/2013 (50.5%, Robert Graham Treasurer Selection, C#99, 230b), which is hugely appreciated, and carry on with a couple of others. I remember Glen Moray 19yo 1998/2017 (55.5% Cadenhead Authentic Collection 175th Anniversary, Bourbon Hogshead, 240b) and 35.59.
I call JH, who reminds me that he is on his way to the airport and not coming with us. We all finish our drams and leave for lunch.
The intention was to try the Shoreditch Grind, but on the way, The Eagle seems a better option: it is open, there is room, and it is quiet, at this time. We go in.

Left

Right

And centre

Lots of silly nonsense ensues. The Swissky Mafia is in full entertaining form, and everyone else is in a jolly mood too. EG orders wine; his perfect Italian pronunciation destabilises the waitress, which amuses us. I realise then that OB is not here. I text him: he just went for a run and will not join us until later.

Killer chicken

The food arrives. The Sunday roast tradition is well respected, with EG, CB, kruuk2, JS and I I taking the roast chicken (which is to die for) and the inferior-chocolate makers opting for beef stroganov. JK has a burger and dom666 takes the fish and chips -- and displays the hugest smile I have ever seen him sport when he discovers his minuscule timbale of peas.

"Go easy on the vegetables!"

"Chi va piano va sano è lontano," says EG when he sees how I destroy the roast chicken when everyone has long since thrown in the towel. JS replies that, "this chicken didn't die in vain." tOMoH leaves no chicken behind, yo!

And then, OB arrives. CD wants to stay here to watch the football and meet up with SA. A few seconds later, he wants to meet up with SA outside the tube station, come to mine for drams and check the score on his phone once in a while. Good. 'Whisky' is the key word, here. :-)

"Let me pay!"

Off we go, quickly followed by CD, PG, JS, EG and CB, who collected SA.

Again, I take no notes, not even of who has what. We talk about some brand I do not remember, and I call it a little vulgar. For some reason, it reminds me of the Gipsy Kings, which we promptly sing along: "Vulgaaaaare! Oh-ho! Cuntaaaare! Oh-oh-oh-ho!"

OB immediately asks for EG's expertise on fake bottles (EG is Italian, after all). He produces a recent-ish purchase that bears no ABV, volume, or bottle number, and which perplexes him. EG and CB inspect it closer, looking for glass engravings, market indications, embossing or any clue. We are all puzzled by the fact it has a French import disclaimer on the back, but an Italian tax stamp. CB ventures that the French disclaimer might have been used throughout the Continent, while I suspect the lack of an ABV, volume statement and bottle number might suggest a prototype label for a promotional bottle-shoot -- commercial bottle pictures are sometimes made with incomplete labels, which are then doctored in post-production to contain different details, depending on which market the picture is for (e.g. 750ml and ° Proof for America, 70cl and % ABV for Europe). We simply cannot reach a definitive conclusion, even when I pull out Ulf Buxrud's book that contains a picture of the exact same bottling, but bearing all the information missing from OB's bottle.

CD: "Whenever PG or I think we are becoming too geeky, we remind ourselves there are JS and you.
You are on a different level. This proves it again."

OB swiftly pulls out another bottle, opens it and pours it to all. My notebook comes out.

Brora 27yo 1981/2009 (51.3%, Duncan Taylor Rare Auld, C#291, 330b, b#76): nose: dry earth, gently farm-y. Soon, peaches show up, but also Turkish delights, baby cream, blusher and more earth. It is rather earthy, this, despite the others thinking it is less robust than earlier vintages (but more than later ones). Mouth: dry, chilli-laden and full of hay and earth. Finish: long, warm and earthy. 8/10

dom666 and kruuk2 have to leave to catch their train. Unfortunate timing, though: CD's jaw drops alongside everyone else's, when OB brings back the suspicious bottle to the surface and opens it with no ceremony at all.

And breaks the cork, proving it is not a fake

Port Ellen 22yo 1978/2000 (60.5%, OB Rare Malts Selection, 4580b): nose: violently citrus-y, it has limestone, acidic lemon and a medium veil of peat smoke. Mouth: huge, beastly, but pretty elegant at the same time. This is very lemon-y, with more lemon on limestone and the effervescent reaction that comes out of it. The peat is subdued, but the alcohol is not. Finish: big, rip-roaring, with lemon juice, peat smoke, more mineral -- limestone with lichen on it. This is excellent and deserves a very strong 9/10

CD: "It's got that dirtiness!"
tOMoH: "No, that's you opening your mouth!"

A little dance move, courtesy of OB

EG, SA, CB, CD and PG take a bow to catch their respective transportation.

Port Charlotte 12yo 2003/2016 (60.4%, OB for Passionnés du Malt and Friends, Bourbon Cask, C#0816, 241b): another OB exclusive. JML delivered it to him yesterday, and here it is already. Nose: leather, cow stable, a farmer's boots, shoe polish and lots of smoke. Mouth: strong, with burning straw and barley sugar. Finish: ink, leather, faded by the sun, lots of shoe polish and a big hit of smoke. This has a glowing reputation, and it is very good indeed. 8/10

vs.

Port Charlotte 14yo 2002/2017 (60.1%, The Creative Whisky Company The Exclusive Malts, Sherry Hogshead, C#1140, 228b): I still have some of it from last year and decide now is the time. Nose: nail varnish and a relentless farmyard influence. Later on, strawberry in chocolate start rocking. Mouth: leather, farm paths, tractor tyres. The ABV is certainly felt! Finish: dark fruit, liquorice, leather, tractor saddles and oil. This is still great. 9/10

OB has to leave, as does JK. Time to wash up, shower and catch up on sleep -- tomorrow is a school day.

What a weekend! Thanks to all for making it such an unforgettable experience!

16/06/2018 Active distilleries

Many friends who are regulars at tOMoH's tastings converged to his neck of the woods for a little celebration. Many have suspicions regarding the occasion, but I remain discreet about it (and I will remain discreet).

I so needed a broken cork, right now!

Naturally, I am behind schedule. Cork issues and more preparation work than foreseen. They arrive early too, which stresses me out a little: I want to maintain the surprise effect, you see, and having my guests hover around is not a good way to do that. Regardless, people meet, some for the first time, some for the first time in a long while. All play the game and stay behind a partition wall; conveniently, sofas are there to welcome them. To ease the pain of waiting, I pour them an apéritif: Ben Nevis 12yo 1996/2009 (46%, The Vintage Malt Whisky The Coopers Choice, Refill Butt, C#817, 420b).
jazzpianofingers changes into something less comfortable: the poor sod has to work after this shindig.

The suspects: JH, kruuk2, dom666, Psycho, sonicvince, ruckus, EJ, Volanne, EG, pat gva, PG, CD, JK, TC, jazzpianofingers, cavalier66, JS, PS and tOMoH. OB will join us later.
Sadly, MS called off this morning: he injured his back at the gym last night and cannot move. DH called off a couple of days ago: his boss cancelled his holiday, as there was no-one to cover for him. Finally, CT warned in January that he had a clashing engagement and could not make it, after all, despite booking transport and accommodation in November.

Nibbles are brought to the table -- crisps, popcorn and that killer pata negra jamon from that secret spot near Volanne's. He also brought dried sausage and EG brought mortadella.

Needless saying we petty much destroy the lot

The Poshcorn bag at Propercorn's is universally
recognised as a faux-pas, on the other hand

Before we start, I do a quick introduction, to explain who is whom and why we are here. The audience spontaneously bursts into a song, which amuses me a lot. During the introduction, I pour more of the Ben Nevis 12yo to quench everyone's thirst.

Singing makes one thirsty

I go on to explain I chose the theme because I had a plan, though that made it difficult to find something suitable: being a ghost hunter, it is sometimes easier for me to select quality drams from closed distilleries (show-off!) Several threaten to walk out when they hear the theme. :-)

Putting pat gva on the spot
I'LL CHOP YOU UP, YO!

Time to attack the drams. All of them are poured blind. Since I am presenting and entertaining, I lack time to take long notes. The good news is that I can (and most probably will) revisit those drams in the future.

Dram #1
Nose: soft, delicate, it has bonbons and all sorts of sweets -- chiefly pear drops. It becomes fruitier and fruitier, with Turkish delights entering the scene. Mouth: soft, sweet, full of Turkish delights and honey. Finish: wonderfully fruity and rather spicy, for 40%. More honey and Turkish delights. Amazing start, really! Everyone tries to guess, but all fail miserably. jazzpianofingers is the closest, who says it is probably an old blend. Dew of Ben Nevis 40yo 1962/2002 (40%, OB, Sherry Cask) 9/10

I talk about the concept of a single blend and how this used to be a distillery exclusive. PS chips in to add that the proprietors thought those casks were not good enough and decided to blend them at birth, instead of maturing malt and grain separately. This would then be an accident. Ha!

Dram #2
Nose: initially woody, it soon opens up to reveal boiled sweets, kumquats and crystallised mandarins. Mouth: a nice, fruity dance on the tongue that comes with a healthy dose of pepper and minimal dryness. Lovely. Finish: clean and zesty, JK and TC venture it is a Bruichladdich, with ice cream notes and maybe a faint bitterness. Wrong again. Secret Stills 02.02 40yo 1966/2006 (45%, Gordon & MacPhail Secret Stills, Sherry Hogsheads, C#1204+1449+1452, 600b) 9/10

Generally thought to be a Cragganmore, this one is the last non-cask strength dram of the day. I thought cavalier might guess, since he had me try it in February. But no.

This is how one cuts a jamon

CD (talking about German football): "I like the Man-shaft."

Dram #3
Nose: super soft and delicate, with powdered sugar, ice cream shavings and banana. Mouth: soft, soft, soft, sweet, with enough lime juice to kick you in the guts, still. Finish: gentle, soft and elegant, some would say: feminine. It is sweet and mild, but flavourful. Love it. The Belgians all find it dusty and the weakest dram of the day, which I cannot explain. All the others are on my side. Tamnavulin 40yo 1968/2009 (40.6%, Càrn Mòr Celebration of the Cask, Hogshead, C#3659, 335b, b#210) 10/10

The above was my initial choice for dram #3, then I swapped it for another, before swapping it back.

TC is a fast-learner...

...but his execution is a bit sloppy!

Dram #4
Nose: this one is woodier, with mint, chlorophyll, old papers in Grandma's loft (cavalier). Mouth: pretty intense, here, it has mouthwash and wood spices. Finish: this has an amazingly-controlled wood intensity, with coconut, yoghurt and green tea leaves. Almost too much, but it walks the straight and narrow. Strathisla 40yo 1967/2008 (48.6%, Duncan Taylor Rare Auld, C#2716, 160b, b#96) 9/10

dom666 is delighted to discover he has a bottle of this, which the Belgian contingent offered him in 2008. Volanne is delighted to realise he has a bottle of this full stop. pat gva is pleased to try something he had not had from his favourite distillery.

Dram #5
Nose: leather, sherry, earth -- this smells old school! Horse stables and, behind all that, promises of citrus. Mouth: mellow, velvety, slightly rubbery, but also fruity and powerful. Finish: a whisper of bacon, and WHAM! Tropical fruit galore. The BenRiach 40yo 1975/2016 (53%, OB, Sherry Butt, C#7028, 511b, b#101) 10/10

Volanne: "Nose is good. Sherried, peaty, excellent. [Puts it in his mouth] Mhmm. Mhmmm. [Swallows] Yeah, gr-- OH! FUCK ME! THE FRUIT!!!" :-)

CD: "This is why we drink whisky! Life does not suck, right now!"

Dram #6
Nose: what a slap in the face. I had this twice before, but it still slays -- even out of a freshly-opened bottle. Lots of fruit, this time, with carambola leading the parade. Mouth: silky, velvety, fruity, then it evolves to show dry leather in the back. There is a slight bitterness to it. Finish: super-fruity, unexpectedly. This is amazing and I like it better than previous times. Springbank 40yo 1969/2009 (54.4%, Signatory Vintage Cask Strength Collection Rare Reserve, Refill Sherry Butt, C#263, 356b, b#244, 09/471) 10/10

A toast to CT, who sourced this bottle for me, and a nod to Psycho, who collected it for me. This was rated best whisky on whiskybase.com, for a little while, with the effect that prices were multiplied by six overnight.

The line-up

The tasting reaches its natural conclusion. I explain that I know most here probably expected to try a 40yo official bottling from a certain Islay distillery, and I regret not having enough Laphroaig 40yo to pour to everyone. In any case, most here have already had it.
However, I cannot let these good people leave like this, on a disappointment. So we will have a nightcap. Not just any nightcap, mind. We will have a 40yo official bottling... from another Islay distillery.

Boom.

The whole gang is on their feet, screaming and clapping, and causing a general brouhaha that fills me with ecstasy. Then they all pick up a dram of the beast, and a tomb-like silence descends onto the room for a good ten minutes.

And when the Man opened the seventh bottle
Silence covered the sky

Bowmore 40yo 1955/1995 (42%, OB, Bourbon Hogshead re-racked into Sherry Butt, 306b, b#176): nose: I am dying. I can feel impending Bowmore eyes. I retreat to a bench and decide I will take notes another time. This is godly and takes us out of time. Infinity in a glass. A provisional 17/10

OB arrives right as I regain my senses: I need to tidy up. Everyone offers to help, which confusingly does not help. I usher them all out, to further enjoy themselves on the wharf.
The clearing operation is swift and relatively easy, and the place is vacated shortly before 18:00 -- yay! Thanks EG and JS for your valuable help.

Now to the after-party.

The final line-up

Many have brought goodies out. No notes, here, but a few references: Old Rhosdhu 1967/1999 (40%, OB The Original Collection) (PS has never had it), Bowmore 12yo (40%, OB, b. early 1980s), 9.110 20yo d.1996 Sense of sophistication (60.8%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 150b), Carsebridge 52yo (40.5%, That Boutique-y Whisky Company, B#1, 260b, b#2), Vallein Tercinier Très Vieux Fins Bois Années 40 b.2013 (40%, OB, b#110/084, d.1940s), Vega 40yo 1977/2018 (43.1%, North Star Spirits, Spanish & American Oak, B#2, 400b), 90.2 10yo 1980/1991 (58.3%, SMWS Society Cask), ... I do not try all of them.

The saddle battle

Visitors

"Are we friends, now?"

EG pulls an Italian trick

cavalier66 explains... Cognac

Many are still talking about the Bowmore, though.

JH: "It's as if Jesus came and touched me."

JK: "The Bowmore 30yo last night was an epiphany. It had peat, and then fruits behind it; I loved it. And then you give me this. And it's even better."

That moment when the wind spills 1940s Cognac

Fortunately, we do not like waste and
have many ways to contain it

Imagine the stress when this happened to the Bowmore
as the guests were walking in...

After an hour or two (and some bottle trafficking), we decide it is time for food: Dinerama it is. Psycho is stuck at the gate with his suitcase: security searches bags and will not let him in with it, as it contains bottles... for me. There is a cloakroon, he says, but he is not comfortable leaving it there. I ask him why he brought them here, when he was so close to mine. "I asked you several times if you wanted them then, you said no." Obviously, I did not understand the question, because it makes no sense to bring them here. Anyway, we end up leaving the suitcase at the cloakroom and pick it up later with no issue. I wonder how many times they have been asked to store three bottles of St Magdalene at that street-food market! :-)

Yum-buns at Dinerama

Food at Dinerama

Food again

Good times indeed!