08/07/2026 Three Glendullan

Glendullan 11yo d.1984 (43%, James Macarthur Fine Malt Selection): nose: whew! That wakes one up. A crisp lemon juice poured onto hay bales. There may be calamansi too, as it promises a faint sweetness, but that is more in the background. Herbs show up upon deeper sniffing, rosemary, lemon thyme, oregano, all dried beyond recognition. Next to those herbs is incense -- church incense. It has got that unmistakable ashy scent that new-age boutiques of the world cannot achieve, the smell of incense bought in bulk decades ago and that has spent the meantime in the humid coolness of an oversized religious building. The second nose clears the nostrils more aggressively: a spray of windscreen defroster here, a whiff of rubbery cork there, abrasive incense ashes... Out of nowhere, spring-flower stems photobomb the picture. Mouth: mellow and creamy, it offers a delicious custard, satsuma smoothie and a moist sponge cake with a dash of lime juice. Chewing intensifies the lime acidity, adds a few stones for a mineral touch (driveway gravel) and sprinkles herbs on top (crushed bay leaves, dried rosemary and gunpowdered sage). The herbs' bitterness points at angelica, after a while, and Verdigris-covered copper. The second sip welcomes pineapple rings, less ripe than optimal, which means crunchy and a tad bitter. That is soon met by the citrus from earlier, more acidic, less bitter. Finish: less creamy in the finish, it swaps the custard for juicier notes of citrus -- grapefruit, lemon, lime juices dotted with lime zest. It washes all that with a dash of warm chocolate milk. Yes, it is acidic, bitter, warming to a degree, and rather comforting, all in all, seemingly made for a summer morning such as this. The second gulp is immensely sweet, almost gritty with caster sugar, an impression I will liken to some rums. That is wet with defroster served in a hammered-iron goblet, which is funny. An excellent Glendullan. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)

Glendullan-Glenlivet 25yo 1965/1990 (51.1%, Cadenhead): we step back in time, since this was bottled several years before the previous one was distilled. It was distilled before the distillery was rebuilt, in fact. One may consider they come from two different distilleries altogether, since only the site and the name are the same. Nose: it could hardly be more different. This one has a ton of OBE with tin lids and dust from the Industrial Revolution -- dusty old boilers, engines that have sat dormant for ages and that are so dusty and seized that one would hesitate to turn them back on, and cast-iron soil-stack pipes that could use a good jet-wash. It has an encrusted residue of smoke too, not at all relatable to peat, rather the smoke of derelict machinery, next to clogged sink and peaches heated and displayed on a zinc plate. Drier, dustier, more mineral at second nose, it evokes a mix of cereal dust (oak flakes) and quarry dust -- a quarry in which a fox passes fleetingly: a musky note tickles the nostrils. Mouth: oily and fruity at the start, it showcases green-grape juice, if said juice had an oilier texture, peach nectar, and a soft metallic touch. Chewing is like stepping on the gas pedal of an old automobile: a cloud of fumes comes out of the rickety mechanics, hot, acrid, strangely fulfilling. Smoked peaches and nectarines, smoked Golden Delicious apples, and that smoke comes out of a Moka tin pot that contains no coffee. The second sip rolls those nectarines in sherbet, which gives them a dusty citrus kick, something that is even more noticeable when swirling the liquid in the mouth; it is well acidic and pushes a hot galvanised-iron bucket on the length of the tongue. Finish: it is mellow and cake-like for a second, before it farts a huge cloud of diesel fumes, one that really sticks to the gob. It sucks on the street, but works remarkably well in this whisky. Hazelwood-fire smoke joins the diesel fumes and there are remnants of caramelised orange rinds on a zinc plate. It has a lingering bitterness at the death, part dusty zinc, part dried rosemary, yet the caramelised orange rinds give a sweetish counterpoint that works well. It seems more powerful at second gulp and leaves the tongue throbbing and a bit numb, closer to the effect of licking hot metal than that of a medical anaesthetic. When the taste buds slowly recover, they catch cut fruits (nectarines, oranges, chalky pears), milk chocolate, diesel fumes, a hot Moka tin pot and smoked sponge cake. I love this one. I find it even better than the 11yo. 8/10

Glendullan-Glenlivet 25yo 1965/1991 (51.1%, Cadenhead Original Collection, Oak Cask): funny how many online notes are from tasters who have tried this and the previous expression back to back too. theoldmanofhuy.blogspot.com: not breaking ground since 2012! Is this one repackaged old stock of the previous bottling? The differing bottling dates suggest not, but every other detail is the same and that is the time they moved from the dumpy brown bottles to tall green ones. There is only one way to find out! Worth noting that this entry in the Original Collection is at cask strength, not the 46% that is the norm for that range. Nose: if anything, it is even closer to the Industrial Revolution. hot boiler tanks, engine rooms and their sweaty operators. Halved apricots appear on the horizon, served on a hot zinc plate. In a way, it is very similar to the previous, yet it is hairier -- hairballs more than horse's hair, but still hairy. Citrus rinds are next, fried in a dry frying pan and there is a faint whiff of mint toothpaste in the distance, obfuscated by hot metal. The second nose sees hot flour ready for the baking, a metallic worktop heated by the sun, a spoonful of ground coffee in a dry filter, and the hot brass buttons of a dry-cleaned uniform. Something else shows up, after a while, and I cannot tell if it is a plastic garden sprayer full of fertiliser in a greenhouse or a plastic bottle of some beverage that has gone off. Mouth: peaches and nectarines smashed into a pulp and heated -- you guessed it! -- on a zinc plate. Chewing calls back the hairy, sweaty machinery operators, but the musk and hairy character do not hide much of the hot-fruits-on-hot-metal that dominate. It seems stronger than its predecessor, and leaves a few singed taste buds in its wake. Warm orange juice (unfiltered) claws its way to the top, augmented with caramelised chopped orange rinds. Mellower at second sip, it has pouring honey and Mirabelle jam. Chewing pumps a vegetal bitterness into it, gently-smoked nettles or bergamot foliage, more than plant-stem sap, thankfully. Finish: it produces quite a kick on the way down, then it unleashes no end of lovely citrus, mostly oranges, but also satsumas and clementines. Warm marmalade, caramelised peels, baked zest, crystallised segments covered in hot syrup. Make no mistake: it retains hot dusty metal and hair, now reduced to very-dry ancient ropes, but citrus lead the way. The second gulp is just as satisfying, with warm metal, warm citrus foliage and orange segments so saturated with diesel fumes they are virtually unrecognisable, closer in character to the engine of a gunboat than juicy fruits. This is clearly not the same bottling repackaged, unless there are major bottle variations. In any case, the one before was good, but this one is even better. 9/10

27/04/2024 The Whisky Fair (Day 1 -- Part 2)

The story started here.

From the balcony, it all seems less hectic.
It is a trap, though, as it is also a time syphon.

At least, some are making the best of their visit

From up there, we spot CD's stand. A few moments later, we are with him an PG.

Islay 25yo b.2024 (47.9%, C. Dully Selection imported by Sansibar Whisky, Bourbon Barrels, B#CD 24-88, 357b, b#281)

Nose: smoked pork, bacon, and a touch of smoke before varnished wood rocks up.

Mouth: ink and Iso Betadine, then mouldy cherries.

Finish: big, but elegant, medicinal, farm-y. It dies on a note of dark cherries.

Comment: well done, CD. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, CD)

Teacher's Highland Cream (86° Proof, Wm. Teacher & Sons sole agents for the USA Schieffelin & Co., b.1940s)

Comment: creamy alright! This is super buttery and soft, a little fruity, and surprisingly elegant, for what is allegedly full of Ardmore, a distillery that can be robustly rustic. 9/10

With the silhouette of Ardmore
on the back of the label

Everyone is surprised when they hear that JS and I are here for the first time. I have to spell out to them that we were Limburgins, until today.

Jwhatshisname and JS

Jwhatsislasname [remember him?]: "How did you know [it was me]?"

CD: "The pin. I will pin you down later, baby."

tOMoH: "Shall we leave?"

CD: "No! Please don't!"

Old Rhosdhu 30yo 1994/2024 (48.6%, C. Dully Selection)

Nose: meadow flowers, cut flowers, cut pears, then coconut aplenty, and some herbs (sage, oregano).

Mouth: sharper and more acidic than expected, filled with ground flint and dried lime zest.

Finish: big, fruity, creamy, it is a bit of an explosion, really. Sweetened green citrus fruit.

Comment: enthusiasts tend to ignore those Rhosdhus. Guess who will be disappointed, in a few years' time? 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, CD)

Longmorn 34yo 1973/2007 (54.4%, Gordon & MacPhail Cask Strength, First Fill Sherry Butt, C#3649, JG/AIG)

Nose: varnish and lacquer. Then, it is... spinach!?

Mouth: extractive and lactic. Intense, challenging.

Finish: long, sweet, a tad bitter. Here are rubber and coffee.

Comment: a bit much for me, and, considering how much these go for, these days, that is a relief. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, Jwhatsislasname)

 

St. Magdalene (Linlithgow) 32yo 1982/2015 (58.1, Cadenhead, Butt, 282b)

Nose: phwoar! Mineral, flowery and fruity at the same time, like only St Magdalene can be. It has dried lime zest to boot. Some may think that makes it even more challenging.
Mouth: yes, similar thoughts. It has rock-hard lime zest and flint chippings.
Finish: huge, like a slap in the throat. We soon have lime zest served on slate, and some lichen, foolishly trying to get some attention.
Comment: not the first time we try this, and it is always a (challenging) pleasure. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, CD)

elskling catches up to us.

Clynelish 5yo (43°, OB distributed by M. Di Chiano)

Nose: musky, mustardy (elskling), and mineral -- I find flint. It may have a whisper of pickled onions too; it is hard to tell underneath all that musk.
Mouth: fresh, fruity. The initial impression is that of cut peaches. Then, it shifts to a a dusty-sandy profile.
Finish: very big for the modest ABV, rocky and full of sands.
Comment: these old Clynelishes are incredible. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, elskling)

Glendullan 18yo b.1989 (64%, OB The Manager's Dram, Sherry Cask)

Nose: super woody and extractive. Wood glue, pickled onions, and varnished walnut shells.
Mouth: cloying, incisive. The second sip is a little more approachable, though still brutal.
Finish: woody, spicy, nutty and extractive again, desiccating.
Comment: overly woody for my preference. 6/10 (Thanks for the dram, GN)

Loch Lomond Inchfad 17yo 2005/2022 (55.5%, C. Dully Selection, Bourbon Hogsheads, C#408/411/412, 281b)

Nose: earthy, farm-y. Here, we find river dredgings, dried on the riverbank.
Mouth: the earth is a lot damper on the palate, not quite mud, but greasy, loamy soil. In fact, it turns citrus-y, with grapefruits, white and pink, and blush oranges.
Finish: yes, lots of citrus -- red grapefruits, blush oranges, pomelos. This is creamy and excellent.
Comment: another corker from the unloved distillery. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, CD)

Bowmore 18yo d.1971 (57.3%, Sestante, Sherry Wood)

Nose: very inky, blue and black inks, tar, engine oil (PG), Barbour grease. Later, we have nori, with funky fruit in the back.
Mouth: Oh! Veeeeeery briny, savoury without being meaty, a tad musky, with decayed fruit on the roof of the palate.
Finish: soot sprinkled on decayed fruit.
Comment: is there anything else to say? 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, PG)

Glen Garioch 12yo 2011/2023 Private Edition No.1 (52.5%, The Whisky Agency Rotten Glasses for Korea, Barrel, 120b)

Nose: waxy, plasticine-y, then comes a mix of flowers, fruits, and scorched earth mixed with bubble gum (PG) and chocolate (CD).
Mouth: creamy AF, this has mushy peaches, a smashed-avocado-like texture, sharon persimmon, and a dusting of dried sage.
Finish: long, but mellow and buttery. Steamed apricots, thick and coating.
Comment: sadly sold out by the time a decision is made. 8/10

PG [upon discovering GB has a sample of a legendary bottle at his stand]: "How much is the Largiemeanoch?"
tOMoH: "350€. Don't."
PG: "I could drink two other drams, for that price."

Tobermory 24yo 1994/2022 (47.2%, C. Dully Selection, Sherry Butt, C#11628, 215b)

Nose: quite a lot of pickled onions, strangely, followed by horse's hair and quarry chippings. Not an easy nose, this.
Mouth: hay, meadows, well, a grassy mouth.
Finish: long.
Comment: as the attentive reader can tell, tOMoH is rather, ahem, distracted, at this point. This is good enough, though. 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, PG)

Jwhatsislasname: "Here is EG's special blend. He is sending me the recipe by voicemail -- inch'Allah, one day."

It is another dry and farm-y number, with horse's hair, some of it braided. Posh horse.

Tobermory 24yo d.1994 (49.8%, C. Dully Selection specially selected and bottled for Sansibar-Whisky, Sherry Butt, C#10942, 78b)

Nose: overripe currants and caramelised apricots.
Mouth: ooh! Drying. Fruity, but drying. A Fino cask? Oloroso, I am told. Hard to believe. Ashy sultanas and raisin stew.
Finish: very sherried, yet also well balanced, sweet, ashy, it has pressed golden currants and sultanas.
Comment: another good one, if not something I would run after myself. 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, CD)

SA, JSi and HT join us

Glen Garioch 30yo 1991/2022 Edition No 65A (41.4%, Decadent Drinks Whisky Sponge, 10y in Refill Hogshead + 20y in 1st Fill Port Barrique, 175b)

Nose: intense, strong wood varnish.
Mouth: rancio and elderberry liqueur, thick and gently drying.
Finish: soft, sweet, full of sultanas, currants, and prune juice.
Comment: is it a Glen Garioch day, or what? Between this, The Whisky Agency's, and the Swisskies talking about the 1971 Samaroli they had six years ago, it would appear that way. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, SA)

All day, I pour Fettercairn 28yo 1988/2017 (48.9%, The Nectar of the Daily Drams special edition for TastToe, 16/06009) (notes here) and StilL 630 4yo Missouri Straight Bourbon b.2019 (45%, OB Bill 266, B#10, b#177) (notes here).

On the way out, I realise they sell supermarket whiskies too.

Read on here.

28/10/2021 red71's surprise birthday bash

As said on Tuesday, it was red71's birthday, this week. That calls for a tasting.

Gaija, Bishlouk, STL, JS and I join birthday boy red71 for a virtual sesh. Blind, of course. Even the theme is only revealed at the end.

Dram #1

Nose: "it doesn't smell bad, this," says Bishlouk. I find banana, fudge and loud pomelo, while everyone else sits in stunned silence. First dram of the night on a cold crowd, probably.
Mouth: a bit more austere and less accessible than the nose suggested (Gaija and Bishlouk). Bishlouk reckons it is not the the easy starter that goes down on its own. red71 finds it rather hot, while I detect a certain bitterness.
Finish: total custard onslaught.
Comments: Gaija thinks of a Lowlander, perhaps a Bladnoch, while red71 ventures it could be an Ardmore.

Mosstowie 33yo 1975/2008 (48.4%, Duncan Taylor Rarest of the Rare, C#5816, 184b, b#008) 9/10

Full notes here.

As soon as I paste the reference in the chat, Bishlouk shouts 'Mosstowie.' Gaija is extremely impressed, oblivious to the fact Bishlouk merely read the answer, not guessed it. Lots of teasing (of both) ensues.

Dram #2

Nose: fresh going fresher, it develops apple mint, tarragon, wax and smoke (Bishlouk), then soot and tiger balm. Bishlouk and Gaija find it very refined, while STL (who has been on a call for the past ten minutes) detects strong banana and Haribo's banana sweets. Later on, he finds sweat and wet newspapers too.
Mouth: Bishlouk reckons it is shot, spent. Gaija concurs in that he feels no alcohol whatsoever. For me, it still retains bitterness, a distant-but-acrid smoke, marmalade and orange peels. Bishlouk agrees that it has a bit of wood, though he claims it lacks complexity and flavour, despite its lemon peels and woody tones. Gaija falls into the sea and comes out with melted plastic and seashells.
Finish: Gaija finds it thin or refined, and sushi-like, while red71 thinks it is bitter. Gaija confirms umami and raw fish.
Guesses: red71 reckons a Springbank, Bishlouk guesses a Brora, then a Bruichladdich, Gaija thinks Glenisla, then Glen Garioch; STL, wiser than the others, decides not to cover himself with ridicule.

Ledaig 1974/2000 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Rare Old, JJ/CB) 9/10

Full notes here.

Bishlouk: "Well, when I said Brora..."
tOMoH: "Don't even try. You failed, like all the others."

With the alcohol flowing, the tongues start going. Guesses become bolder and the conversation more feisty and saucy.

Dram #3

Nose: "festive and fruity," says Gaija. red71 finds plant stems, which Bishlouk corroborates with the terms 'industrial' and 'herbaceous'. I find it deliciously fruity, but, of course, I do not have a terrible sense of smell. :-) Bishlouk then finds it fresh; red71 seems to agree, who calls it a Littlemill nose. Gaija looks towards Ireland, noting strawberry and raspberry jams.
Mouth: Bishlouk calls it very Littlemill-y, though admits it could be a Glen Keith. Gaija finds chamomile, while it is full of citrus (calamansi) and citrus foliage, as far as I am concerned. red71 compares the mouth to sucking on rocks to illustrate the mineral side.
Finish: custard and caramel flan, fudge, mocha pudding, yet with a mineral, chalky side too (Gaija).
Guesses: after establishing it is no Littlemill, Gaija ventures Balblair, then Aultmore, while the others decide not to make fools of themselves.

Deanston 35yo 1977/2012 (40.4%, The Whisky Agency & The Nectar, 253b) 9/10

Full notes here.

red71: "Well, maybe Bishlouk messed up my samples, because I do not recognise anything you all say."
Bishlouk: "It should smell of urine. They are Monday-to-Friday urine samples."
red71: "It tastes like your lady's urine indeed."

Dram #4

Nose: fruity and pastry-like (Bishlouk), green bananas (Bishlouk), "very-active Bourbon cask that has imparted young wood" (red71). I find it gravel-y and a tad austere, personally. Gaija thinks it is beautiful, with very clear fruit. I agree on mandarine, though insist on varnish, gravel and wood glue. Suddenly, it becomes more herbaceous, emitting sage, salsaparilla and oregano. Now, the trademarks are starting to appear. But of course, I know what it is.
Mouth: STL notes that it is powerful -- Gaija confirms it must be around 52%. Bishlouk calls it noble and refined, which Gaija approves, listing varnish and precious woods. red71, for his part, senses that it is much higher in alcohol than the previous, and full-bodied. I find polished fruit stones, with a pronounced-but-perfectly-fine bitterness.
Finish: long, warming like a radiator, a bit herbaceous and mineral, close to white-hot limestone. Gaija talks of pineapple and varnish again, and I correct into charred pineapple. STL tells us he detects a spritzy pinch of salt.
Guesses: Gaija thinks of a Glenburgie, as does red71; Bishlouk and STL side with Glenlossie, Bishlouk proudly claiming it is obviously a Bourbon cask. When told no-one is even in the right region, Gaija suggests it may be a St Magdalene, thereby scoring the first (and last) point of the evening.

Linlithgow 25yo 1982/2008 (59.2%, Signatory Vintage Cask Strength Collection for La Maison du Whisky Collectors' Edition, Wine-treated Butt, C#2201, 388b, b#313, 8/513) 9/10

Full notes here.

Gaija: "Sometimes, this sort of profiles smells a bit like gas."
Bishlouk: "That's because you've just farted."

Bishlouk: "I get what you're saying with gas in the nose..."

tOMoH: "Your nose is too close to your mouth!"

Bishlouk: "The theme cannot be whiskies from the 1970s. This is from the 1980s. Red labels, perhaps?"
Gaija: "All distilleries that have had different names?"
red71: "All bottled in the 2000s?"

Dram #5

Nose: "and now, for something completely different" (Bishlouk). This is refined and complex (Bishlouk), yet it has some sulphur (Gaija) and cooked cabbage (STL, who refers to brewing as well, particularly mashing). Gaija notes garlic cloves, and red71 settles on matchsticks.
Mouth: Bishlouk feels like he has entered a factory, the whisky being industrial and oily. red71 goes along with the factory theme, and adds liquorice to the mix. Gaija then lists limestone, gravel and earth too.
Finish: "this one kicks like a mule," says STL. Gaija finds it austere and the antithesis of charming, even if he likes it: no fruit, no sugar. Gaija and red71 agree it is an extremely long finish, with red71 stating it is borderline peaty. I am surprised no-one mentions burning hay, but, hey! (pun intended) who am I to judge others' (wrong)  perceptions?
Guesses: Gaija says Springbank, then Banff; Bishlouk reckons a Mannochmore, while it makes STL think of a Lochindaal. red71 carefully stays silent, showing all that he is the wise man.

Glendullan 16yo b.1998 The Centenary Bottling (65.9%, OB for the distillery's centenary, b#000210)

Full notes here.

tOMoH: "I thought of red71, when I selected this last one. I thought it might be his profile."
red71: "That's right!"
STL: "You thought of him?"
tOMoH: "He likes virile, hairy whiskies."

Bishlouk: "Do you score all your wanks?"
red71: "Of course! With detailed notes and all."
tOMoH: "And samples."
Gaija: "That's something to make you run out of rows in Excel..."

Time to reveal the theme. All the attempts at discovering it have miserably failed, of course.

It was pretty instinctive, really.

red71 asks for more information about Burns' Night. I explain the (relatively) set menu and the occasion to try lots of whiskies. I lament that B****t may make it harder to serve haggis in the future.

tOMoH: "A Burns' Night Supper without haggis is like a wank without Excel."
red71 and Bishlouk: "What is next year's theme?"
tOMoH: "Probably the same as the theme for 2021 [which was cancelled]: Man 2 Man -- anything with a man on the label; a woman works too."

red71 and STL tease Bishlouk about his liking Golden Carolus whisky.

tOMoH: "Have you tried baiju? It's a Chinese alcohol distilled from rice. If you're offered it say 'no'! It'll make you burp fermented rice for a week afterwards."
red71: "But... is there a man on the label?"

Great evening with lots of banter and fun. A bit crass, at times, perhaps. :-)

16/03/2021 Glendullan

Here is a name that does not get much love. I have to admit never being wowed by a 'dullan, thus far. Hope that changes, one day.

Glendullan 16yo b.1998 The Centenary Bottling (65.9%, OB for the distillery's centenary, b#000210): nose: some rather assertive power, unsurprisingly (have you seen the ABV?), and an immense, arid dryness. Muddy fields turned into a sorry, dusty crust, hay bales, left outside for a month with no rain, porridge dust, gruel. A few minutes in, toasted aromas develop -- roasted coffee beans, burnt toast, liquorice bark, but also rum banana and bone-dry, dusty red wine, if such a thing exists. It comes back to dryness, with a dirt track in a heatwave, and faded beef jerky, close to turning into crumbly parchment. Belatedly, a fine oak dust brings some relative gentleness to this brute of a nose, giving it a scent that flirts with vanilla. The second nose sees dry lichen on limestone -- you can almost hear it crackle, so dry it is!. Lastly, hot metal (picture the heating plate of a coffee machine) and a sack of pot-pourri so old it hardly smells of flowers. With water, the toasted profile is increased, with ground coffee, this time, black cumin seeds and charred orange rind. Mouth: wish me luck... It is enormous, of course, yet not as much of an assault on the taste buds as one might expect, actually. Pronounced ginger heat, green chilli, yet also a growing shade of fruit to calm things down, somewhat: candied-apricot cubes. The palate becomes dusty, after some time on the tongue, as if guzzling dried orange slices turning to dust, yet keeping a vague, sweet fruitiness. Repeated sipping turns that fruit into pineapple, although it (the pineapple) is so hot it is hard to discern. Water makes the palate much more approachable, juicier and fruitier (apricot jelly and orange marmalade), though still with a kick -- horseradish comes to mind, now. Yes, water makes this seriously good. Finish: seemingly mild and pleasant, much to my surprise, it is still pretty robust, and it develops a persistent sawdust coating, in the long run. Once again, it is extremely dry, here, even drying. The fruit has turned into ground apricot stone and citrus slices so dry they crumble to a dust powder with a mere breath. I also have to note that, although it does seem mild on the way down, it makes the temples beat the drums in no time at all; a good reminder that this is powerful indeed and should be taken with caution. Water seems to make it greener, strangely, displaying tough kale morphing into undercooked French beans, spearmint, and also rubber, in an old-bicycle-tube way. This requires a lot of time and patience to reveal itself, as the aromas and flavours slowly crawl out from under the high alcohol, and even then, its personality is maybe subdued. One can see why it is favoured by blenders, however: even at this insane strength, it contributes without shouting. A dram that is a little simple, maybe, but interesting nonetheless, on account of its strength, if nothing else. 7/10

15/01/2020 SMWS x Phil Storry

As part of a series of events which see members "take over" the SMWS and host a tasting (remember BA did it not too long ago), PS has assembled a series of bottles for us to try. Some are from the manager's shelf, and we will be told what they are. Others are from PS's collection and we will try them blind. A semi-blind tasting, then.

tOMoH: "Who's speaking?"

The loose theme for the night is odd casks. It is not clear from the get-go, but PS will remind us as we go.
PS peruses the room and observes the many familiar faces. Considering he lives here, he gets no credit.

PS: "Anyone here I don't know?"

PS: "Now, do you know me?"

Dram #1
Nose: vanilla and baked apricot, soon joined by subtle pine needles. The apricot grows in intensity and turns quite waxy -- a Clynelish, perhaps? Pine cones arrive, later on, though it does not resemble a Benrinnes. Mouth: warm and velvety, it has gently-bitter apricot nectar. The second sip brings more acidity forward, with grapefruit and lemon. Finish: some acidity in the finish too, even if it is never unpleasant. Lots of chocolate as well, a drop of lemon juice, and growing grapefruit. Much later on (at the end of the tasting), it is full-on flowers -- not acidic, or anything: just beautiful. PS explains this was his joining bottle (the bottle he received as part of his membership pack). Well, the bottling, to be accurate. The bottle, we drank many years ago. With the power of teh Inturnettz, I call bullshit, however: that was 25.31. 25.47 19yo 1989/2008 Wakens the taste buds (56.7%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 256b) 8/10

tOMoH: "What do you think about this, SL?"
SL: "I like it better, now I know it is a Rosebank."

Dram #2
G6.9 38yo d.1980 Listening to the frog chorus (46.5%, SMWS Society Cask, 2nd Fill Toasted Hogshead, 147b): nose: a grain, without a doubt, this one has buttery flapjacks and fruity turnovers all over it. Peach, a pinch of dried herbs (oregano) tiny whiffs of metal, hawthorn, laurel... and very soft rubber, not unlike a stress ball. Mouth: satin-like, with peach skins and woolly jumpers (I know). The second sip is more bitter, with oregano, sprinkled on top of apple turnovers. Finish: mellow and grain-like, warming, with peach nectar and drops of melted chocolate. Well, with this undeniable grain-like character and those bitter herbs, it had to be a Port Dundas. 8/10

Dram #3
Nose: another grain, though this one is much more "austere" -- herbaceous, almost metallic. Behind that "austerity," though, is a cast-iron cauldron full of jam, simmering away. Later yet, industrial glue comes up, hinting at some of the SMWS rums that I have tried. We confirm it is a grain whisky. Mouth: sticky, rubbery, glue-y, it develops some rubbery pastry dough, but it is not really as I remembered it (by now, the identity has been revealed). Finish: at last, some proper dough-y turnovers. Blackcurrant shows up late and will not leave, of course -- and it is lovely. Nice, yet also interesting to try it blind, as I remembered it being better. Perhaps a sequence mistake? G5.2 17yo 1993/2011 Strumming the strings of the soul (65.3%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Virgin Toasted Oak Hogshead, 248b) 8/10

PS [about BA]: "Very early in our friendship... if we can call it a friendship..."

N from Brighton: "I'm really enjoying the ABV."

It is 65.3, N from Brighton. Not sure what that says about you. ;-)

Dram #4
84.21 14yo d.2001 Satisfyingly sweet, silky and smooth (55.6%, SMWS Society Single Cask, 2nd Fill Sauternes Hogshead, 186b): Nose: back to malt, and this one has lots of candied citrus -- waxy satsuma peels and candied tangerine segments. It only plays one note, this one (the waxy citrus, innit), but does so very well. Much later, scented talcum powder and baby lotion appear, with a and gentle citrus twist. A bit of hay and more and more custard join in, as time passes. Mouth: with peach flesh and stones, it has lots of acidity and a generous dose of wood. The heat (slightly green) is impressive, with green chilli and ginger. Finish: the acidity is well pronounced in the finish too, with lemon juice and grapefruit juice. Some wood spices here too, ginger, mostly. Interesting. After being told what it is, I catch myself finding it similar to my bottle of Glendullan 16yo Centenary. JS's favourite, tonight. 7/10

PS: "2nd Fill Sauternes cask!? Who would use a Sauternes cask twice?"
tOMoH: "Still watertight? Let's use it again!"

Dram #5
Nose: a rich sherry maturation, with prunes, pressed dates, pressed figs, though very little leather or shoe polish -- it is a fruity number. Bramble, blackberry, blackcurrant and, later, pot-pourri. Mouth: lots of prune juice, diluted pressed dates, frangipane -- yes! A great sherry maturation (what? It is virgin oak?), but the distillery character is nowhere to be seen. Finish: long, warming and prune-y, mellow and full of soaked sultanas, re-hydrated dried figs and dates, perhaps soaked cork too. 26.118 16yo d.2000 Happiness is a warm hug! (52.4%, SMWS Society Cask, Virgin Oak Hogshead, 180b) 8/10

Good drop, but a perfect illustration of why virgin oak is not more widely used: it completely overrides the distillate.

PS: "I toyed with Madeira. I toyed with other things, but..."
tOMoH: "Please, don't tell us!"

JS: "How many virgin oaks did you have in mind, PS?"
tOMoH: "Seventy-two! Seventy-two virgin oaks!"

Dram #6
Nose: urgh! Meaty, full of gravy, sauce grand'veneur and smoked lingonberry compote, this is game-y and -- I suppose -- seasonal. Mouth: meaty again, it has wine sauce, apricot liqueur (WhiskyLovingPianist), rancid meat gone off (JS), rancio, elderberry compote and elderberry cordial. I find it drying. Finish: long, wine-y, with some heady spirit (liqueur praline). Mostly wine-y chocolate, in fact. I can see the merit of this, but it is not my thing much. Still, I am feeling generous, tonight. 10.60 8yo 1997/2006 Spicy Sevilla oranges (58.4%, SMWS Society Cask, 892b) 7/10

Probably from a Sherry gorda, judging by the huge outturn. Funnily enough, those are no longer allowed by the SWA, says PS, as they contain more than 750l.

PS: "I brought this, because it's not something you would associate with me."
PP: "You mean: good taste?"

PS [paraphrasing]: "The Society insisted there couldn't be a seventh dram. I asked about an eighth or a ninth, but that's not happening. But I don't like being told what the fuck I can and cannot do, so have some samples!"

WhiskyLovingPianist [after I winked at him]: "There's no point talking. I'll see you online."

PS: "Sorry for not coming to your tasting, tomorrow."
JS: "What happened to the PS we knew?"

The portions were huge and no nibbles. Drinking those high-strengths whiskies on an empty stomach make me tipsy, as expected. Pity. Otherwise, great night out.

08/12/2019 London MkIII

Back to London-related whiskies. Incredible to realise that it has been three and a half years since the previous time!

GL, PS, BA, CB and JS join me for some bad punnage. :-)

And a dram or thirteen, obviously

The soundtrack: Lustmord - First Reformed (Extended Motion Picture Soundtrack)

J&B 15yo Reserve (40%, Justerini & Brooks imported by Anglo Español AED, G80356) (BA): "Because what says. 'London' more than J&B, in St James's?" asks BA. Berry Bros, of course! It is important to note that CB and his bottles have not yet arrived, at this point. Nose: crushed green hazelnut shells and dried sage. Mouth: sweet caramel, cough lozenges, blackcurrant and elderberry drops, a touch of liquorice, perhaps. Finish: pleasant enough, if unpretentious. Some nuts, some cut peaches, distant tobacco and quince jam. Nice. Much better than the NAS expression. I can see why people drink this: it is an accessible-but-not-uninteresting dram. 6/10

Ledaig 1974/2000 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Rare Old, JJ/CB) (tOMoH): Rare Old Street. Out of a collection of far-fetched theme connections, this was one of the weakest, but I really wanted to pour this Ledaig. Nose: strawberry bubble gum, a couple of grains of ground cinnamon (yes, it is that faint), crystallised blood oranges, dried-raspberry rinds, a touch of wax (CB) and buttery apricots. Mouth: mildly acidic, it has lots and lots of fruit -- strawberry, raspberry, dried banana slices, candied lemons, pineapple cubes. BA finds leather, while I chase dried orange peel -- blood orange. A tiny pinch of soot reminds me that this is an old distillate and that the malt was probably peat dried to a degree. Finish: similarly fruity, here, with smoke being but a fading memory. A mostly-fruity dram with an old-school twang. Love it. 9/10

PS: "I always set the alarm. What is the joy of ignoring the alarm, if you don't set it?"

The soundtrack: The Cure - Disintegration

Linkwood 26yo 1987/2013 (46%, Berry Bros & Rudd Selected by Berrys', C#1043) (CB): CB proves once and for all that Berry Bros is Londoner than J&B -- it even reads, 'London' on the label (so does J&B, truth be told). CB could have gone for Linkwood Green, of course, but in his quest for a green Christmas tree, he has not thought of that. Tsk. Nose: fresh, it has cut quince and crushed mint, toothpaste, almost (blue minty gel, of course). Mouth: it feels a little watery, but also very nice and fruity, with soft conference pear and fleshy peach. Finish: fruity again, it is complemented by the slight bitterness of burnt wood and drying orange segments. 8/10

London Distillery Company 3yo 2015/2018 (63.5%, OB 109 Cask Edition for Philip Storry, ex-Bourbon American Oak 20l Cask, 28b, b#27) (PS): well, London, innit! How PS managed to get a bottle of that extremely-limited run made for one individual is a mystery. Nose: herbs and marzipan, as well as minty chocolate, After Eight style. Mouth: strong, but soft, in terms of flavours (hence its position in the line-up). It has herbs and a mix of nuts and dried fruits. Finish: now almost medicinal, so present are the herbs, though it retains a grilled-marzipan touch which I like a lot. This is much better than I anticipated. 7/10

Killer choc, courtesy of GL and BA

Killer crisps, courtesy of JS

GL takes control of the floor to explain he only started drinking whisky (and kicked the Irn Bru habit) when he moved to London. To celebrate that, he brought something from his hometown. And since he could not choose, he brought two.

Garnheath 44yo 1974/2018 (45.8%, Douglas Laing Xtra Old Particular, Refill Barrel, C#DL12373, 141b, b#057) (GL): Garnheath is always a treat, and GL is not the only fanboi of the distillery in the room... :-) PS finds what he thinks is a better connection: Garn-Hampstead-Heath. Nose: very intensely herbaceous, with tarragon, crushed sage, bay leaves, yet also dried mushrooms and corn syrup. Mouth: mellow at first, it turns aromatic, almost medicinal, whilst retaining the sweet, syrupy edge. A strange combination, but it works a treat, never turning vulgar like, say, Canadian whisky can be. Finish: sweet, caramel-y, and corn-syrupy, it is long and well balanced, with just what it takes of herbs to save it from being overly sweet. 8/10

vs.

Glenflagler 23yo 1972/1996 (51.3%, Signatory Vintage, C#228442, 255b, b#144, 96/1243) (GL): a treat, or what? BA and CB admit this is their first Glenflagler -- I can sense some showing off at school on Monday! :-) GL, JS and I had one with OB about a year ago, though that was a different vintage. I am not a little excited myself. Nose: on one hand, it is rather fruity; on the other, it smells of sweaty feet. Later, a chalky side appears, alongside squashed strawberries, wooden crates of cider apples and a lick of a leather belt (whatever floats one's boat, eh?) Mouth: oh! yes, smoked cider apples, cut pears, old wooden crates again and, perhaps, leather mocassins. What a balance this one strikes! I would love to spend more time with it to write more, but really, this here, in these circumstances, is perfect. Amazeboulanger. 9/10

The soundtrack: Harold Budd ▪ Elizabeth Fraser ▪ Robin Guthrie ▪ Simon Raymonde - The Moon And The Melodies

PS blends both (fifty-fifty), thereby creating a single blend. The nose has a waxy mix of apples, wood and herbs; the mouth reaches an even better balance than the individual components, with white peach and apricot, while the finish is long and fruity, sweet and well balanced. If you can afford it, try this at home. :-) 8/10

Bunnahabhain 40yo 1978/2019 (51.6%, Masam, Butt, C#7229, 520b, b#498) (CB): CD announces: "I tried to to find a pun for this, but I Bunnahaven't a clue." After a few moments to catch my breath from all the laughing, I venture Bunna-Hill Row. Anyway. Nose: beef stock, oxtail broth, cured meat, Chinese cuisine, slightly-pickled red onions. It is also rather dusty and vinegar-y, dirty, weedy (BA) and meaty. The back nose welcomes dusty marzipan. Mouth: it is more herbaceous, here, with gentian (CB), lozenges and mint -- minty lozenges, then. Finish: warmer than expected, it has little of the vinegar, but a lot of the dust and gentian. The mint has all but gone. Cured ham pays a visit -- or is it pastrami, maybe? 8/10

BA: "Mountain herbs."
PS: "Is that why you got banned from the shop? Mounting herbs?"

St George Bishopsgate Barrel b.2016 (56.7%, The Whisky Exchange Straight from the Cask) (GL): it reads, 'Bishopsgate,' though it should really be, 'Billingsgate,' where the festival took place where this was sold. Nose: not much else than wood, for a couple of sniffs. Then, toffee and clotted cream appear (CB and BA) and old, faded cinnamon sticks. Mouth: dry and woody, with oaken chips, faded galangal, maybe even dry lemongrass. It turns creamier and creamier, almost yoghurt-y. Finish: wood influences here too, but fruit starts to shine as well (baked apples and baked apricots). 7/10

PS: "Most embarrassing moment of my lifetime..."
BA: "He's only talking about whisky!"
CB: "Glad we clarified."
PS: "Not talking about that evening in a gimp suit..."

The soundtrack: Gridlock - Trace

Miltonduff 15yo 1995/2011 (56.3%, Gordon & MacPhail Reserve imported by Classic Wines Imports for Park Avenue Liquor Shop, 1st Fill Bourbon Barrel, C#9461, 198b, b#120, AH/ABBB) (tOMoH): Miltondufferin Street has already been done, so I go for Milton Keynes-duff, which is quickly pointed out as not being part of London. Of course, it is not, but PS's proposed connection about bodies in Bunnhill Fields being duff is even worse. CB notes that it is, "bottled for Park Avenue Liquor Shop. But if that were a British company, it would be called: Park Lane Off-Licence." :-) Nose: fruit and earth and a rather steady flow of sulphur. Custard is also present, as well as pear slices served on a wooden stave. Mouth: metals, sage, cut peaches. It becomes bitter in the long run, though it still has fruity yoghurt. Finish: earthy, leathery, bacon-y, almost. I also find it hairy, with hairballs, stuck down the sink pipe, and metallic sage. This disappoints me, today. PS, on the other hand, loves it. 6/10


JS: "Is Mr. C not part of the Shamen?"
BA: "I may have mistakenly added some Shamen tracks to my playlist..."
me: "Shamen you!"

BA: "If you go to the live chat of TWE, chances are it's me."
JS: "It's not a bot?"
me: "Billy's Ab-bot!"

The Clyne-Lee-ish River. PS had this tenuous connection for his own contribution. When she saw it, JS went for her own bottle to do a side-by-side exercise.

26.90 27yo d.1984 Elegant, subtle, balanced -- in total harmony (55.1%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Sherry Butt, 508b) (PS): nose: waxy plums, mirabelle plums, a touch of soot or charcoal dust, nail varnish... It is really old-school fruit and coal scents, 1937 style. Mouth: soft, mildly waxy, it has loads of juicy fruits and a pinch of soot again. Later, red-chilli powder also rears its head. Finish: without going into details, this is the perfect blend of fruit and soot. It turns fruitier in the long run, with dusty fruit (quince, apricot), in the fashion of the best Tullibardines. 9/10

vs.

26.93 28yo d.1984 Cottage garden beside a church (56.1%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Sherry Butt, 352b) (JS): nose: similar, but different, it has crushed crayons, super-waxy plums and white peaches. It becomes fruitier and fruitier as time passes, with a backbone of gentle soot. Mouth: dusty, sooty, acidic, it has dried orange peels, butter lemon-drizzle cake, and slices of peach, sprinkled with a pinch of salt. Finish: long, huge, very sooty at first sip, it becomes fruitier with time. Amazing too! 9/10

Alcoholic wombat in full effect

PS: "Wait! You're saying what I like about Brora is asbestos?"
JS: "Where is asbestos on the Pentland wheel?"

The soundtrack: The Moles - Untune The Sky

CB: "Why are you talking about Clynelish?"
PS+BA: "You've just had two..."
CB: "What?"
[PS points at the bottles]
CB: "I thought they were Caol Ilas..."

71.41 17yo 1998/2015 Curious and Intriguing (57.2%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Sherry Gorda, 720b) (BA): distillery 71, because 071 used to be the dialling code for London until 1995. Geeky or what? Nose: a trace of sulphur and lots of meat, spicy sponge cake (BA), nail varnish. Boy! This is so meaty, it might as well be a Mortlach. Mouth: milk chocolate at first, before red meat invades, slowly but surely. It gains some rancio, at some point, and bloody roast beef (to be eaten with fucking potatoes, of course). Dripping blood, really. Finish: dried dates and figs, prunes, raisins, glazed chestnuts and fruity fortified wine. In fact, liqueur pralines, overly stuffed with liqueur -- Edle Tropfen Obstliköre). Huge. Wine-y. Meaty. It is good and interesting, but over the top for my taste. 6/10

BA: "Don't excite PS!"
me: "Everything I say seems to excite PS!"
BA: "I wouldn't take that as a compliment..."
PS: "Don't get big-headed about it."

BA: "PS, are you stage-managing some kind of sexual-assault picture?"

PS: "I wasn't getting on with rich things -- sherried and Woodford Reserve."

The soundtrack: Gridlock - Further

Glendullan 16yo b.1998 The Centenary Bottling (65.9%, OB for the distillery's centenary, b#000210) (tOMoH): Glendullan is, of course, one of the original seven stills of Dufftown. Dufferin-town Street (yes, recycling). Nose: much shyer than anything before, it seems, this one has hay, straw, dried apple slices, plantain and even ink. Amazingly enough, it is not overly expressive -- the aromas are perhaps smothered by the frightening ABV. Mouth: powerful, but actually rather soft, with hay and straw, porridge, hay bales, burnt straw and a lawn after a heatwave. Finish: similar notes of hay and porridge -- the power is impressive, though. Then again, it does not burn or anaesthetise as much as one might expect. It does tingle and last forever and a day, delivering notes of hot porridge. This one is not particularly complex, but it is a fitting ending to this tasting. 7/10

What a session again!