17/03/2026 Member Take Over: John Peter Hughes

I bumped into JPH (PH for short) on Friday where he told me about this tasting he would be hosting. It had somehow slipped my radar, so that was pure serendipity to meet him on a day I had not planned to be there, and at an unusual time to boot.

Before the tasting starts, I am treated to a dram of 10.288 16yo d.2008 Savour the savoury (60.8%, SMWS Society Cask, ex-Bourbon Hogshead finished in 1st Fill ex-Oloroso Hogshead, 237b). I take no notes. The Oloroso influence is a little loud for me. It should score 6 or 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, KT)

We know the format quite well, now: an SMWS member showcases Society bottlings from their private collection to a group of people who signed up to be there. Amongst those, PS, Dr. CD, GT, YM, DW, JS and tOMoH.

PH starts by telling us how he fell into whisky (through wine and Michael Jackson) and how he became an SMWS member in 1991. He quickly points out that he is not the most-senior member -- of all, in London, or even in this room. Indeed, Dr. CD famously joined on the 29th February 1495, so he predates even Pip Hills. And Friar Cor.

As he continues his story, I start with the work. The data is given more or less as we go; we are not really tasting blind, this time.

45.8 16yo 1982/1998 (64.6%, SMWS Society Cask, finished for 16mo in ex-Sherry Gorda, 577b): nose: apple slices peppered with a pinch of ashes, super-dry hazelwood, incense. That incense grows and grows into refined ash from a fruit-tree fire. Candlewax rises, as do fruits (plums, grapes). Mouth: crisp, it has fruity dry white wine -- Riesling, then Sauvignon Blanc. It is a tad ashy, but that is balanced by green grapes and chestnut oil. There may be a drop of cider vinegar too. It is ashier at second sip, but also immensely fruity (crunchy apples). Finish: delightful ashy white wine. This is positively fruity. It develops a coat of wood polish at second gulp, but Paula Red apples dominate, roasted, yet still crunchy. What a way to start! 9/10

PH tells us the last cask of distillery 45 was filled on 16th March 1983 and he regrets that he could not do the tasting yesterday to mark the anniversary (the SMWS is closed on Mondays).

61.9 18yo 1981/1999 Crepe bandages and lavender oil (58.3%, SMWS Society Cask, Refill American Oak Barrel, 305b): from a time when the Society gave its bottlings names, but did not write them on the label. Nose: phwoar! Here are matchsticks, guaiacol, a fire of twigs and brambles. Behind that are cactuses and white-fish skewers. It is not strongly charred, but charred alright. Old burnt staves and scorched marshland plants. Mouth: another cracking old glory that has a blend of roasted fruits and ashes, incense and peach nectar (unless it is orange juice). The second sip is drier, waxy, with lots of burnt candle and incense. It is quite chalky too, but no big whoop. Finish: long not big. It is elegant, fruity, a little ashy again. Despite its provenance, it is not particularly farm-y. The second gulp has more earth, and the whole is warming and comforting. Wood dust (not sawdust) at the bottom of a log basket by a fireplace. PH finds it a citrus freshness too, but that does not hit me. 9/10

Someone near me is wearing enough perfume to distract me and lower my enjoyment. Hm.

44.35 14yo 1994/2008 Egg sandwiches and walnut cake (58.1%, SMWS Society Cask, Refill ex-Sherry Hogshead, 124b): nose: water colour, dried plasticine and daffodil petals. It also fans a roaring fire in a cast-enamel wood-burning stove, and warm metal that has been used to cut baked apples. The second nose brings cosmetic powder. Mouth: baked Paula Red apples and sugar. It then gets metallic and sees lichen forming on copper (not Verdigris). The second sip is a trifle chalky, much like a Granny Smith apple. That is augmented with a pinch of ash. Finish: medium-long, it has fermented apples (Paula Red again). The second gulp is well warming. In the long run, it takes the bitterness of mahogany shelves. 8/10

PH: "There was once an SMWS Port Ellen [maybe 43.13 Sweaty gym shoes?]; the notes said it smelled of fart, sweat, urine and decayed fruits."
PS: "For Charlie Maclean, that's a good night out!"

PH explains he and Dr. CD have large collections of SMWS publications, and are sometimes asked if they would provide original tasting notes for an old bottle.

PH: "We are not hoarders, we are archivists."

66.20 20yo 1985/2005 Sun-dried sprats and prune juice (54.1%, SMWS Society Cask, Refill Hogshead, 310b): nose: smoked plasticine, burnt cow dung, clay and cut meadow grass, thick and juicy. This is a farm-y nose. PH talks of wood, but I do not agree. The second nose is an even-farmier affair, ripe with muddy pastures and cattle droppings, followed by charred dried raspberry slices. Mouth: greasy earth and peat smoke. It has a lick of fruits too, mainly grilled grapefruits and satsumas. The second sip is a little more pine-like, fresh and acidic. Finish: charcoal, burnt wood and charred citrus slices. That turns a little greener at second gulp, reminiscent of pine needles after the rain. I could give this a higher score any other day. Tonight... 8/10

PH tells us how to reproduce the smell and taste of a certain release of distillery 19, called Peat, germolene and strawberry jam. It involves double-toasting bread on the highest setting, scraping some of the charred surface, then slathering the toast with jam.

PS: "Now I know why your psychotherapist lives in a mansion."

The two guys at the next table have not stopped talking for the whole dram and story -- roughly twenty minutes. They are showing pictures of their family on their phones, debating the merit of phone models etc. It is starting to lower my enjoyment too.

33.76 10yo d.1998 A civilised scout camp (56.3%, SMWS Society Single Cask, 1st Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 242b): nose: a big slap of peat smoke, without surprise. Embers, charred wood, tarry sands and dark ink, spent incense, spent wick. Suddenly, it comes up with sea spray and briny air, then wood-fire smoke. The second nose brings out guaiacol and smoked plasticine to supplement the incense. Mouth: dark ink it is, a pinch of sugar, then a raging bracken fire and burnt tyres. The second sip is juicy, thick, with apricot nectar in terms of texture, and apples roasted on a wood fire in terms of taste. Finish: it is well balanced, here. Oh! it is smoky alright, this time with petrol fumes, but also some fruits, such as smoked roasted apples. It also has a lot of ink. The second gulp serves tarry sands and crude oil in unbaked pottery made of smoked clay in a smoky boat shed. It may be the least convincing dram tonight, yet it is excellent nevertheless. 8/10

Very good tasting. I managed to overlook the talkers and the perfume, in the end. It was hard. PH somehow selected only things we had never tried before -- yay!

09/09/2025 Member Take Over: Ian Hunter aka Mr. Closed Distillery

When this event was announced, I could not remember meeting or hearing about Ian Hunter. When PS underlined he was nicknamed Mr. Closed Distillery, my curiosity was obviously piqued. I also thought it was a little weird that we had never crossed paths.

Tonight is the night, then, when we verify if this Mr. Closed Distillery is whom he claims to be.

I join JS, DW, PS, GT, Dr. CD, YM and others on the top deck. One look at the host, and I realise we have met -- at DW's Easter bash. Phew! That bodes well.

Despite tube strikes, most people made it. We start on time.

Hunter wastes no time. He tells us briefly when he became a Society member (2002), not how or why, then dives straight into the whiskies and the memorabilia he brought along, documents from yesteryear, some frankly depressing when one compares prices and selection with today's.

Take this 2002 outturn brochure, for example.
The Lowland page advertises an Inverleven,
a Rosebank and a St Magdalene.
One could buy all three for... £159

I take scant notes. The pace does not allow it and I want to enjoy the company. We try everything blind.

Dram #1

Nose: powerful nose, with marzipan soon overtaken by honeysuckle. This is bright, lively, and a tad minty, perhaps. The second nose brings honey.
Mouth: punchy, it has a mix of peach and red chilli pepper.
Finish: long, wide, fruity, it delivers peaches and peach stones, as well as a tame lick of chocolate.
Comment: with a few vague clues, I guess Coleburn, then Convalmore, even if it is clearly not the profile of the latter. We struggle to pinpoint it until the reveal. Then, it becomes embarrassingly obvious. Caperdonich is not really a rare sight at the SMWS, even these days. That said, no-one has had this older bottling. And it is very good.

38.13 24yo 1980/2005 Eiswein and red peppercorns (57.9%, SMWS Society Cask, Refill Hogshead, 268b) 8/10

Dram #2

Nose: mint crumbles, sherbet, it is rather sweet, then develops a soft citrus-peel profile and adds cosmetic powder.
Mouth: it has quite a bite, acidic and citric. It is also powdery without being chalky. The second sip is spicier, with a good dose of chilli.
Finish: chocolate rolled in rose petals. The second gulp presents dandelion stems, which is to say: plant bitterness.
Comment: Ian tells us it is a divisive distillery, which PS confirms by staring at me. I conclude that it is Cambus and dare not touch it. The man said Speyside, though, and it does not smell like a grain. Good thing I do not say anything, because it is, in fact, Pittyvaich. A Pittyvaich we have already tried in this very room, actually! More than a decade ago, granted.

90.5 10yo 1992/2002 Kola Kubes and Lilt (59.4%, SMWS Society Cask, 248b) 8/10

IH: "It has a cult following."
PS: "It's spelled with an 'n', not an 'l'."

Dram #3

Nose: this is bursting with jelly capsules, followed by fruits. It is like pulling peaches out of a plastic medicine jar. It probably smells much better than it reads.
Mouth: it has citrus foliage, but it is mostly lovely  fruits. Strawberries, rosehips, Damson plums, apricots and the softest puff of blond tobacco.
Finish: juicy Mirabelle plums and apricots.
Comment: this is excellent and my favourite, so far. I liken it in my head to 45.19. That was good, but this one is even better.

45.9 27yo 1975/2003 Cherry on top (50%, SMWS Society Cask) 9/10

Dram #4

Nose: a little brimstone mixed with juicy fruits (kumquat, calamondin, tangelo). It is also mineral and gives a whisper of Hardois the dog, wet or not.
Mouth: mosses on slate, corroded metal, fresh fruits and dried orange.
Finish: long, it is a steamroller, assertive, not aggressive. It has stewed orange segments simmering in a cast-iron pot.
Comment: some guesses, including Brora, which this obviously is not. I silently think Glenlochy, but we are told it is an Invernessian distillery. The crowd narrows it down to Millburn. It is even one we have tried before. I like it better today. Crazy how much more approachable it seems, tonight. The magic of a well-crafted sequence, eh?

87.6 16yo 1983/2000 (57%, SMWS Society Cask) 9/10

Dram #5

Nose: phwoar! Behind the obvious shoe polish from the no-less-obvious Sherry cask, it is absurdly fruity, with exploding lychee, dragon fruit, mangosteen and rambutan. Coffee pops in and out too, waving like a line-drying leather belt flapping in the wind.
Mouth: it is very powerful, even now, numbing and clearly fruity. Here are lychee, kumquat, mandarine, apricot.
Finish: long, warming, it rolls out the chocolate carpet, which is quickly trampled on by fresh citrus and cut plums, with shy lychee now in the background.
Comment: what a way to finish! The colour worried me, but this turned out to be precisely my kind of dram. Colloquially known as Mandarins in a well seasoned roasting tin, a name that appears nowhere on the label, it is remarkably different from 92.7, which shared the ABV and the cask type, though from another vintage. That one was sadly smothered by the Sherry.

92.9 20yo 1981/2001 (61.2%, SMWS Society Cask, Sherry Butt) 9/10

There. We just finished five drams in exactly one hour.

And what drams!

Beside the pace, which was too fast for me, it was a great tasting. Unpretentious, factual. I liked that Ian did not bring the obvious or more-prestigious closed distilleries. I was also glad the venue did not crowbar a current bottling into the line-up: seeing the calibre on display, that may have degraded the experience, as JS says.

I did regret that IH read tasting notes from the outturn brochures of the time, or notes he found online. For the one instance where he did not find any note (the Dallas Dhu), he even had Co-Pilot produce tasting notes for him, which I thought bizarre. Now, notes can be a useful guideline, but I find it a pity to read us those notes before we can try the drams and make our own opinion.

Off tasting, we have...

76.157 18yo 2006/2025 Tales of the Worm Tub: Behold the beast (54.3%, SMWS The Creators Collection, 1st Fill ex-Oloroso Butt, 534b)

Nose: thick leather boots, rancio, smoked ham. Then, it shifts towards hair lacquer. The second nose adds cracked black pepper and shaved wine-soaked cork.
Mouth: wine-soaked orange segments, pressed, and most of the moisture removed. Chewing injects sangria and soaked citrus peels. The second sip is drier, full of dusty elderberry and blueberry skins.
Finish: long, wine-y and fruity with a bitter orange-peel aftertaste -- in a good way.
Comment: DW tried to impress us with a recent Caperdonich and came back with this Mortlach. Woops! It is good all the same. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, DW)

38.43 32yo 1992/2024 Homecoming: The essence of heritage -- Bar-room buzz (49.6%, SMWS The Creators Collection, 1st Fill ex-PX Barrique, 213b)

Nose: coconut wood shavings (JS), an avalanche of candied papaya, dried peach cubes and mint crumbles in the back. There is also a bunch of flowers in there, somewhere -- carnations, tulips, chamomile, canola. The second nose is more leisurely, with soft leather sofas and many cushions. It stays floral, almost hay-like.
Mouth: initially chewy, it becomes unctuous, milky, if not custard-y. We have mushy peach flesh, timid maracuja, a pinch of mint, plum, white peach, mango, palak.
Finish: mellow and custardy, it peddles white-peach flesh before expiring in a puff of mango pulp. The second gulp is in line. Maybe, we imagine vanilla-filled milk chocolate?
Comment: what did I say about recent Caperdonich, at the beginning of the tasting? This is stupendous. Simply beautiful. I like it much more than the first time we had it. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, DW)

Well, that set us back an hour, ha! ha!

Good night out again.

09/03/2024 Dune Part One

With the second film in cinemas since last week (BA and OB have already seen it, JS and I are seeing it tomorrow), now is an ideal time to use Frank Herbert's universe as a theme.

The soundtrack: Cthulhu - Arrakkian Junkies

tOMoH presents: Tam-Dune.

Tamdhu 33yo 1969/2003 (40.5%, Hart Brothers Finest Collection) (tOMoH): the nose is elegant and fruity from top to bottom, with citrus-y custard. The palate is nicely spicy, yet balanced, while the finish has lovely stewed tangerine segments. My full notes are here. Today, I will upgrade it to 9/10

OB: "This next one is a blended malt. In French, we would call that a mélange." (An obvious nod to the spice mélange.)

Blended Malt Scotch Whisky 40yo d.1977 (42.9%, Thompson Bros., Sherry Casks, 150b) (OB): nose: well-caramelised stewed tangerines, borderline shoe polish, blackened banana skins. It has a touch of liquorice too, and perhaps some panna cotta on the second nose, as well as an odd, very discreet whiff of hemp. Mouth: a tad drying, it has caramelised apricot stained by the stone. It turns fairly mineral, with quarry chippings, yet that is balanced by more fruit. The second sip is juicier, fresh and vibrant. Grape juice, augmented with drops of grapefruit juice. Finish: very pleasant, it has just the right oomph. A nice acidity of citrus, and a faint bitterness, like grapefruit peels. The following gulps are more caramelised, with barbecued honey-glazed grapefruit skins. I like it better than I remember. That is: I am convinced that I have tried this before, yet I cannot find any evidence 8/10

tOMoH: "It's growing on me, that mélange."
OB: "Your eyes are getting bluer."

BA cocked up his choice of socks

BA presents a whisky from Israel, which is in a desert, just like Dune.

Milk & Honey Classic (46%, OB, b.2021) (BA): nose: marzipan and frangipane, then candied tangerine segments, and newly-oiled birch shelves. It is distinctly woody, yet it is a honeyed style of wood. The second nose has a  serving of grated cedarwood sheet. Mouth: a vague woody bitterness, and, again, a lot of honey, slowly setting. It is slightly drying, after a while, but mostly velvety and unctuous. I love it more with every sip. Finish: warming and pleasant, with more setting honey, and creamy body butter. It is long and relaxing. I would have loved to hate this (because, really, who needs more temptation?), but it is, in fact, very good. 8/10

The soundtrack: Silence - IV

JS presents: a Dune Eideann bottling of Dune-glass.

Dunglass 22yo 1967/1990 (46%, Dun Eideann imported by Donato & C., C#1893-6) (tOMoH): nose: flowery (OB), soapy (JS), yet it retains a malty backbone (OB). I have pot-pourri, flowers and a lick of soap indeed. "This nose is not too offensive," says OB. Mouth: violet sweets, which works for me. Finish: boiled sweets and melted milk chocolate -- loads of it. It is very particular, but I like it. Much more than the first time, in fact (notes here).  JS is not a fan. 7/10

BA produces a bottle that is obviously an industry sample called Wolfcraig. Leftover from a competition, in which BA was a judge. He ventures that the logo looks a bit like the crest of House Atreides.

And indeed...

Wolfcraig 30yo Premium Blend (46.3%, OB) (BA): hot marzipan and crispy bacon. What? Next are minty wood splinters, then, suddenly, plasticine. It then has a touch of linen and warm oilcloth lining. A few cuberdons in the second nose, and some kind of blueberry paste. We find some wood too, and a chemical fruitiness I associate with bubble gum. Mouth: well, it is not soapy per se, but it does have a flowery note, part dried lavender, part pot-pourri, part heather, part melted chocolate again. How odd! Am I particularly sensitive to melted chocolate, today? The second mouth is astonishingly-more drying, with stone filings and ground olive stones. Finish: wide, it has chocolate, though lavender-infused chocolate. It has a great balance, some spices, and an enjoyable complexity. The second gulp has more chocolate, even. This is not blinding, yet one has to admire the skill of Richard Paterson for putting something like this together (credit to Ian Macmillan too, of course). JS finds it too round, while I, in the long run, bump it up one point. 8/10

The soundtrack: Cthulhu - Travelling without moving

tOMoH unveils a Dallas Dune. Also, Dallas is in Texas, parts of which are deserts.

45.19 31yo 1975/2007 Foreplay whisky (45.6%, SMWS Society Cask, Refill Barrel) (tOMoH): nose: "rather good" (BA), polished oak (BA), "reminds me of Glen Mhors I have had" (BA). Old jams and smoky marmalade on the palate, very satisfying. It has a jammy and juicy finish, with a softly-austere touch. JS finds strawberry jam, while I have a drop of shampoo (much less than last time -- full notes here). I like it more today. I am tempted to go to 9, but will calm down. 8/10

BA shows the next bottle and explains: "This is in theme, because it's nice. I hope."
JS: "Also, your name is on it..."
BA: "Yes. And there is a mention of axles. Axles of Dune's battle tanks."
tOMoH: "Ballechin. Or ball aching, as I like to say."
BA: "Bally chin, too. Plus, a sponge soaks up water, and makes things dry. Dry like Dune, the sand planet."

We sadly all miss the obvious Gurney Hallec-hin.

Ballechin 15yo Second Secret Edition (48.5%, Decadent Drinks WhiskySponge Secret Edition, 121b) (BA): nose: hay bales, straw, bacon. It turns more farm-y, after a moment, with cow stables, horse saddles, and mud patties drying in the sun. OB calls some butyric action. The second nose has more bacon, and earth. In the back of the sinuses, something slightly medicinal appears, perhaps ether. Mouth: liquorice root (OB), swede (JS), caster-sugar-coated turnips, honey-cured bacon, baked clay. Ink and ash appear at second sip, with a chopped red chilli in tow. We also detect a few grains of toasted barley. Finish: long, balanced, it has roasted apples, charred apple cores, Verdigris, and lichen on staves. This one is not totally my style, yet it is good. I like that it is bottled at this low ABV, as opposed to some of the jaw-tearing Port Charlottes with a similar profile. 7/10

JS: "I recognise this... Hecker."
tOMoH: "Yup."

JS: "Tim?"

tOMoH: "Woody Wood P. Hecker."

Time for some kouign amann, courtesy of our in-house baker, OB

The soundtrack: Dune - The Alliance EP

OB presents a Clynelish bottled by Duncan Idaho Taylor.

Clynelish 23yo 1988/2012 (49.8%, Duncan Taylor Dimensions, Oak Cask, C#4546, 273b, b#163) (OB): nose: fruity white wine (Riesling?), maybe even Schorle. Indeed, although fruity, the nose is a little subdued, as if cut with water (which is known as Schorle in German). It is also rather mineral, and has a touch of exotic wood too (mahogany or teak). Waxy plasticine timidly takes off, after a bit. The second nose has smoky seal wax, and stale stamp glue. Mouth: citrus-y custard, custard-y citrus. Calamansi, oroblanco, pomelo, ugli fruit. It grows more acidic, over time, though still on the mandarin side of citrus. No fierce lime or grapefruit here. Finally, it gets stone dust, stuck in drying wax. The second sip feels sweeter. Finish: wide and warming, with a stewed-apricot note lingering on the tonsils. We also find warm peach slices, melting in the mouth, and coating the palate. In the long run, there is a faint metallic touch too. I enjoy this immensely, today, and will rate it accordingly generously. 9/10

The soundtrack: The Gesualdo Six / Owain Park - Byrd - Mass For Five Voices

BA: "Do you mind if I take a picture of this Clynelish to post it on our WhatsApp group?"
OB: "I don't mind you doing anything with the bottle, except finishing it."
tOMoH: "You'll notice he did not mention anything about inserting it in your rectal cavity..."
BA: "I was just about to say that."

Following International Women's Day, JS focuses on Dune's main female protagonist: Ardnamur-Chani.

Ardnamurchan 2015/2020 (59.5%, OB part of the Ardnamurchan first aid kit, ex-Oloroso Hogshead, C#AD/CK.670-16/10/15) (JS): JS finds it alright, yet pretty intense. I love it and give it the same generous score as before. My full notes are here. 9/10

Excellent little tasting with some original drams of high quality. And quality dodgy puns.

08/02/2024 Dallas Dhu

45.19 31yo 1975/2007 Foreplay whisky (45.6%, SMWS Society Cask, Refill Barrel): nose: well, that is enticing! Grape juice, cut flowers (forsythia and cornflower come to mind), followed by Turkish delights and fruit jellies of all kinds. That is not all: it has marzipan too, and a whisper of panettone crust stuck to the parchment mould. Soon, that morphs into chewy blackcurrant sweets (think Gummibärchen) and crème de cassis served with scones. How wonderful! Talking about piles of logs would be lying, yet a woody element grows in stature, certainly close to age-old, Bourbon-soaked oak staves. The cut flowers return, however, firmly yellow (forsythia, crocuses, tulips, buttercups), hand in hand with the associated pollen, and a spoonful of honey that is starting to set. Come to think of it, that subtle aroma that could be fresh plasticine is probably wax instead. Beeswax indeed. Then, we go back to fruits: green grapes, greengages, mirabelle plums, maybe lychee, mangosteen, or dragon fruit. Exciting! The second nose sees the wax and honey fuse into an almost chocolate-y paste, and if it no longer turns tropical at all, it remains fruity, with dark cherries joining the grapes. Lastly (and fleetingly) a minute note of fermentation comes and goes -- sheep or rabbit droppings or suchlike. Thankfully, it disappears quickly, because it would work less well with the rest of this nose. Mouth: mh. The initial impression is soapy. And I am not particularly sensitive to soap, as this blog's readership will be well aware. It has fruits (green grapes, less than ripe), budding flowers (forsythia), yet also stripping soap that turns bitter in seconds. That calms down and becomes more mineral, with quarry chippings and green-hazel-wood ash, before turning leafier (hazel). It remains quite bitter, though. The second sip is a little fruitier, and welcomes the return of dark cherries. It is still fairly soapy, bitter and caustic, unfortunately. Pumice, fruit-scented shampoo, green hazelnut, Turkish delights covered in green-grape-scented hand wash, sweetened plant or tree sap (hazel, daffodil, dandelion). Finish: phew! The soap has mostly gone. Hazelnut paste and crushed green hazelnut, blended with pressed grapes, a generous dose of relatively-young wood (shelves made of recently-cut hazel wood) grossly covered in dark honey (some kind of conifer, probably). One cannot escape a certain bitterness, yet it is now a far cry from what it was on the palate. The second sip is as fruity, yet now splashed with droplets of soap. That sadly wrecks it. We have a lovely sweetness, imparted by grapes and greengages, but, over time, green hazelnuts regrettably become louder, which renders the whole bitterer and less pleasant, like a mix of scented soap or shower gel, ash, and ground pumice. What a pity. This would have been an easy 9, based on the nose. The subsequent soapy notes bring it down dramatically, in my opinion. To the point I wonder if something has messed up my taste buds, today. 7/10

23/02/2019 Whisky Show Old & Rare 2019 (Day 1 -- Part 2)

After lunch, I join the Swissky Mafia at Skinner's. They cannot believe the quality of the selection and the reasonable prices. They are right. It is the third year running that Skinner shows up and I have to admit overlooking the stall each year. Old blends, Bourbons and Ryes are all good, but when there is so much else on offer, it is difficult to make the time. This time, we do.

Dallas Dhu 13yo d.1969 (80 US Proof, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice imported by John Cross and Co.): dry, dusty and lichen-y, it also had cut quince. Love it. 8/10

St Magdalene 18yo d.1964 (80 US Proof, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice imported by John Cross and Co.): an amazing nose, all bursting with cut fruit. I take no further note (trying it in CD's glass), but I remember being very impressed by Volanne's too, a few years ago. It turns out to be the exact same pedigree, though this one has a US importer. 10/10

Black Barrel (43%, Berry Bros imported by The Buckingham Corporation): this is from before Rudd entered a partnership with Berry, circa 1910. A pre-war blend, then. Pre-First World War, that is. Nose: holy cow! this is dirrrrrty! Oily rags, engine rooms, soot, crispy bacon and diesel, hot metal and spent matches. Mouth: soft, mellow and honeyed, it is oily in texture and retains just a little of the smoky dirtiness of the nose. What a contrast! Finish: marmalade, sticking to the bottom of the cauldron, heated on an open flame. Stunning! The nose is even dirtier than the mighty Glen Scotia 12yo. 9/10

Dallas Dhu 17yo 1970/1987 (58.3%, Sestante): nose: lots of young wood, ginger and oaky tannins, gentle hazelnut, strong mint and paper paste. Mouth: some bitterness, pronounced wood, peppermint, grated ginger and horsepower aplenty! Finish: it is now almost mojito-like, with sweetness, the freshness of mint and an acidic fruitiness (lime, I would wager). This is woody, but I like it. Or as CD would put it: "I like wood." A strong 8/10

First venture to David Stirk's stand. Nice to see him again. He admits very openly and candidly that he sold off his business, because access to good casks became nigh-on impossible.

Glenkinchie 33yo 1975/2008 (50.7%, Jack Wiebers Whisky World Old Train Line, Bourbon Cask, C#6396, 210b, b#009): three of my favourite things: a Glenkinchie (rare with the independent bottlers), an aged Glenkinchie (rare, full stop) and a Jack Wieber bottling (rare in this country). Nose: porridge and custard, with added ginger shavings. Mouth: warmer on the tongue than expected, it still has the so-called Lowland softness, with coconut cream and custard, as well as a pinch of ginger. Finish: long, custard-y, gently spicy with a hint of rubber. Well, it is gorgeous. 9/10

Longmorn 37yo 1972/2010 (51.3%, The Perfect Dram & Three Rivers, Refill Sherry Wood, 231b): rather non-descript on the nose, it has a good, coating palate and a killer fruity finish. 9/10

Strathisla d.1937 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Duty Free Sample, C#903, sample #9159, drawn 1970s): GMP have brought the goods, this year. Seriously upped their game. This is super-concentrated, with lots of wood and associated spices. 8/10

Glenlossie 42yo d.1938 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice): what a treat! I tried the 43yo recently (no notes), so this one is exciting alright. Nose: loads of dust and old, dusty bookshelves, with orange slices thrown on top. Mouth: mellow, but also sooty, dusty, it has old books and old-school-smoke action. Finish: long, fruity and dirty, dusty. This is elegant. My notes are a bit rubbish; this is superlative, really. 10/10

12.22 35yo 1983/2018 35 and still alive! (43.9%, SMWS Society Cask, 2nd Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 204b): honeyed and fruity, elegant and quaffable. 8/10

Coleburn 26yo 1983/2010 (48.6%, Creative Whisky Company Exclusive Malts, decanter): one of very, very few decanters the company made. Watching the bloke pour from the decanter is a slapstick skit in itself. Nose: spearmint-y freshness and a little mud, in the back. Mouth: creamy and fruity, with an almond touch to it. It also has dried fishing nets or hessian, however. Finish: creamy, nutty and peachy. This is really well made. Possibly one of the best Coleburns around. 9/10

The decanter looks good, too

Ardbeg 1974/1994 (40%, Speymalt Whisky Dist. Spirit of Scotland Celebrating 500 Years of Scotch Whisky imported by Jacques Vins et Spiritueux, b#849, ID/BDJ): nose: dust, coal, soot and charred oak. Mouth: ashes, dried, charred wood, charred oak. Finish: long and drying, it is ashy and fruity at the same time (strawberry). I cannot not think of the Port Ellen Dovr-Tvtes-Mares. A beauty. 9/10

Rosebank 19yo 1990/2009 (52.9%, Acorn Natural Malt Selection for Whiskymanufaktur, Sherry Cask): nose: big, wide, fruity, almost boisterous, but in a softly-spoken way, if that makes sense. Mouth: spicy peach and apricot, black pepper, paprika. Finish: big, muscular, but also fruity and light -- simply high-strength and high-flavour, not invasive. I like it. 8/10

Imperial 17yo 1995/2013 (51.2%, Creative Whisky Company The Tony Koehl Series, C#50079, 279b): "You will have to tell me about the Tony Koehl Series tomorrow, when you are less busy," I tell Stirk. "Good, yeah. It will take a whole two seconds," he replies. :-) Nose: pollen, honey, lilac, concentrated apricot. Mouth: apricot compote, physalis, honey water (if that is a thing) and soaked lilac. Finish: assertive, fruity and light. Excellent. 8/10

Time for one more. Make it count

Coleburn d.1968 (46%, Cadenhead, b.1980s): PT bought the bottle without the neck tag, so it is a NAS. :-) JS is convinced we had this in Dornoch, but she is confusing it with a Convalmore. Nose: an interesting mix of pine, honey, dusty books and honeysuckle. Mouth: balanced, peppery (not too much), dusty and orange-y (dusty oranges), with lots of sugar, too. Finish: again, perfect balance at 46%. A gentle rubber bitterness, waxy cut quince, juicy oranges and a bit of brown acid sugar. Nice. I first had it at 8, but I will go up to 9/10

Phew. We survived the first day (almost) unscathed.

To be continued.

13/08/2017 The vegetable garden tasting

It is that time of the year, when Psycho throws a party at his gaff. The theme is a mixture of a) A summer tasting in the garden; b) Our group calling sediments in the bottle 'vegetable' and; c) An opportunity for bad puns. Mostly c).

The suspects: JS, adc, MPD, ruckus, kruuk2, dom666, Psycho and myself.

Another ambitious line-up

Bunch of paparazzi

Psycho is busy in the kitchen, yet we start nonetheless.

Knockando 1989/2001 (43%, OB, L44P 03762669) (Psycho): this is deemed in theme, because it is floral. Poor effort from Psycho, who realises it and swiftly breaks the cork, in an attempt to add vegetables to the liquid. Nose: light vanilla, hints of flowers. This is really quiet. Hay? Very little is happening, here. Mouth: it feels oak-driven, with vanilla, mead, coconut and a few herbs (oregano). Finish: soft, with coconut and custard, a pinch of herbs and a nice touch of caramel. This will never cause a revolution, yet it is a good set opener. 7/10

The next two spell "T or Coffey," two plants which dom666 grows in his garden, it would seem.

Secret Still 01.01 50yo 1955/2005 (45%, Gordon & MacPhail Secret Stills, Sherry Butt, C#1312) (dom666): a Talisker, of course, and the 'T' in question. Nose: this is still amazing, with rich sherry, toffee, Scottish tablet, noble wood, lacquered wood, prunes, cola. Crazy depth. Nuts and dried fruits (figs, prunes, sultanas). Mouth: syrupy, with a gentle, woody dryness and treacle. Later on, rancio and dried fruits (dates, figs and prunes again). Finish: sticky, syrupy, cloying, with wood bitterness, lots of treacle and toffee. Wonderful. 9/10

vs.

Nikka Coffey Malt (45%, OB imported by La Maison du Whisky, 6/04F081553) (dom666): nose: roasted nuts, nail varnish, even hair lacquer, then chocolate and lots of vanilla. Mouth: soft and discreet ('silent malt,' they called it), with mild custard and βανιλια. Finish: vanilla custard, plain and simple. Popcorn emerges, later on. Simple, immediate pleasure. 8/10

Miyagikyo (43%, OB imported by La Maison du Whisky, H48C) (kruuk2): brace yourselves: mushrooms are often used in Japanese cuisine; kruuk2 says mushrooms grow in herbs gardens. Boom. Also, he bought this in 2011, around the time of the Fukushima incident, which almost ended up in a mushroom. Boom. Nose: yellow flowers and popcorn, a little sweet. This is the discreet still to the previous secret still. Mouth: immediately nutty, then milk chocolate emerges, as well as almond milk. This is so soft and silky smooth (meant in a good way). Finish: hazelnut and silky almond milk, hazelnut-and-chocolate spread. Very quaffable. 8/10

Food enters: courgette-and-onion soup, made with ingredients from the garden.

Boom.

Tomato-in 43yo 1965/2009 (41.1%, The Lonach Whisky Company Lonach imported by Preiss Imports) (JS): nose: fraise tagada, sweet raspberry, high-quality vanilla custard, sweet pineapple and ripe satsuma. Mouth: soft and sweet, this has the texture of peach nectar, with a slight bitterness. Pineapple, satsuma, pomelo. The softness is astounding. Finish: more of that citrus-y goodness and milky custard. This is fabulous. dom666 objects that tomato is a fruit, not a vegetable. Bitter fool. 9/10

Potée liégeoise is served (beans, potatoes, bacon) -- it is a killer.

Boom.

St Marjolaine works even better in French

St Marjoram 26yo 1982/2008 (63.7%, Speciality Drinks The Single Malts of Scotland, Refill Sherry Butt, C#1622, 601b) (me): nose: much more powerful, of course (have you seen that ABV?), with the trademark herbs (sage and rosemary) and a bit of metal, as well as wet gravel. Is it fish scales, in the back? Mouth: warm, with the same herbs and hot embers. The ABV is felt: it is not too strong, but noticeably stronger than the previous lot. Finish: comforting, with sage, thyme, warm custard and crushed, dry basil. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, PS)

Almost as old as the whisky :-)

We venture outside to take advantage of the sun. It has been playing hide-and-seek with clouds all day.

Sallad Dhu 24yo 1976/2001 (50%, Douglas Laing The Old Malt Cask 50°, 630b) (adc): nose: austere, with leather, wet cobblestone, vinegar, cigar leaves. It is likely an nth refill sherry cask: the leather hints at the original filling, but it is not overpowering. Dolmas, then soft coconut. With water, more vinegar and more fruit -- apple-cider vinegar and strawberry. Mouth: softer than expected, it still has some vinegar, some dust, sugary water. Water makes it... more watery. Perhaps it adds a bit of pepper. Finish: pearl onions, vinegar and mead. Water, again, turns it merely more watery. Very good, careful with the water. 8/10

We go back in for dessert. The sun is hiding again.
Birthday cake is served.

Boom.

Brora-dish 21yo d.1982 (46%, Direct Wines Limited First Cask, C#279, b#343) (me): nose: waxy! Oh! no, it is the candles on the cake... :-) The nose has wax all the same, ash and peach, including the stone. Mouth: soft and peachy, with a whiff of dill. It grows in intensity, slightly dry. Finish: a lovely combination of waxy apple and apricot. This probably suffers from the sequence. dom666 confirms he does not like Brora (despite admitting he did a couple of years ago, the bitter fool). Today, it is 8/10

Glen Garlic 1994/2011 (53.9%, OB Vintage, American Oak Barrels, B#32, 118 112172) (ruckus): nose: farm-y, with cow dung in pastures, horse's sweat, butter, then horsehair. ruckus reckons it smells of bourbon (he is obviously drunk). Wet pine cones complete the picture, for me. Mouth: leathery, herbaceous, with the bitterness of ivy leaves (do not try this at home, kids!) Finish: herbs and chocolate, with pepper on top. This is nice and characterful. 8/10

Broccol-addich 19yo d.1989 (46%, Signatory Vintage for Direct Wines Limited First Cask, C#90, b#87) (JS): nose: light and fruity, lively, with juicy pears. Mouth: again, juicy pears, cut apples, and a dash of lime juice. Finish: wonderful, long and light, with fruit and happiness. Looking forward to trying it again in more relaxed conditions (today is quite frantic, in terms of pace). I suspect 1989 is a good year at Broccol-addich. 8/10

37.64 30yo 1985/2015 A real charmer (51.3%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 188b) (adc): the notes on the label read of crushed mint leaves, which is close enough to a herbs garden. The nose is pretty strong, on this one, with lots of flowers and melon. Mouth: horsepower and fruity bubble gum, gentle herbs, rancio (yup), more flowers. This mouth is gently drying, yet balanced. Finish: boiled sweets and cut flowers (dandelions, forsythia). This is lovely. It obviously needs more time and attention, which I hope to give it another time. 8/10

New technique to rinse glasses

Talking about students' binges:
-When you think about it, we do the same. But with expensive booze.
-But we don't vomit!
-If we do, we catch it in a bag and we distill it.
-And we separate the potée liégeoise from the cake and the whisky before distilling.

Caol Ila 14yo 1990/2004 (46%, Signatory Vintage The Un-Chillfiltered Collection, Hogshead, C#04/843, 394b, b#128) (Psycho): this has some vegetables in the bottle (remember it is sediments); also, it is the oldest bottle in Psycho's collection, making it "un petit pot agé." I will not attempt to translate -- just be happy if you canot read French. Nose: farm-y as fook, with peat smoke and farm paths, petrol, diesel. Mouth: sweet, almost sugary, it has sweet-and-sour smoke. Finish: long, again with smoke, yet also earth and sweetness. This reminds me of the magnificent Dovr-Toutes-Mares Port Ellen, although less complex, of course. 8/10

Charlotte Port-ato 14yo 2002/2017 (60.1%, The Creative Whisky Company The Exclusive Malts, Sherry Hogshead, C#1140, 228b) (me): I managed to bring a sample of this back from a recent trip and am glad I can share it with this group. Nose: a bit of rancio, leather, bacon and earth, oregano, lemon thyme, cured ham, smoked cheese. None of those is too loud or invading. Mouth: drying rancio and leather. The peat and the sherry compete calmly, without ever shouting loud enough to be intrusive. The 60+% ABV is undetectable. The mouth is all leather, earth and dark chocolate. Finish: more leathery sherry heaven, with refined peat (who would have thought?), dark fruit, salt and a bit of cured meat (Psycho). Wonderful. 9/10 (Thanks for the sample, KP)

117.3 25yo 1988/2013 Hubba-bubba, mango and monstera (58.5%, SMWS Society Single Cask, 1st Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 199b) (group): 117 is the code for... Cooley-flower, of course! Nose: a massive kick of overripe fruit and green tea. Mango, jackfruit, sage, oregano, marjoram and a tiny note of metal. Mouth: dunnage warehouse, in terms of cork-y mustiness, and lots of fruit -- mango, pineapple, grapefruit. Finish: mango, jackfruit, durian. Short notes, but his remains unbelievable. It has opened up enormously since Burns Night too. 10/10

Great finale to a superb afternoon.

Drams of the day:
dom666: Talisker and Port Charlotte
adc: Talisker
MPD: 117.3
Psycho: Port Charlotte and 37.64
kruuk2: Port Charlotte
ruckus: Port Charlotte and Talisker
JS: Tomatin and 117.3
tOMoH: Tomatin and 117.3

Roll on the next one!