31 January 2023

28/01/2023 Burns' Night 2023 -- Sideburns (Part 2)

Follow-up to Part 1. 

The soundtrack: The Old Man of Huy - Another Brick in the Wall



The next one is a well-known whisky for this group (even if we appear to not have had it for a bloody decade). Psycho chose it, because we call it the Francorchamps grand-prix, owing to its smell of burnt rubber. Psycho tells us that that led him to race pilots, who are likely to perform burn-outs.


Auchentoshan 17yo d.1987 (61.5%, OB Individual Cask for Belgium, C#1659, 552b) (Psycho): nose: much less sulphur and rubber than in previous encounters. It still has roasted coffee beans and rubber, but they are much less prominent than before. Now, we have pastrami, roast beef, and an unexpected dash of lactic acid. The roast beef is slow to come (about thirty minutes to appear) and introduces a slightly sulphur-y note. On the side are sangria-soaked orange rinds. Mouth: strong coffee flavours, and melted mocha chocolate. Finish: balls of fiery hairs! Mocha, coffee, yes, yet virtually none of the burnt rubber from our memory. Instead, hot stout, and a long, drying impression, with root-y galangal. Lastly, cola shows up. 7/10


17th August 10yo b.2022 W.12 (55.3%, Wave Distil Rare Cask Edition, 7 years Port/Cognac Casks + 2 years Sauternes Cask Finish + 1 year Tawny Port Cask Finish, B#WD-SP/001-2022, 302b, b#111) (sonicvince): the bloke on the label has sideburns. Nose: filled to the brim with apples, and turning waxy after a short while. We also have green hazel leaves. The second nose sees bergamot and herbaceous marzipan. Mouth: fruit jellies, orange gummy sweets, and a pinch of discreet sawdust. Finish: sweet marzipan and ripe satsumas. This is lovely. 7/10


Look at those sideburns!
Use your imagination!


Gaija cries into his notes


red71 pours his Glenfarclas before leaving with STL. He says there is no connection to the theme, but sonicvince is quick to point out that Lord Farquaad, from Shrek, has sideburns.


Not really, but the pun (Glenfarquaad)
is bad enough to roll with it


Glenfarclas 11yo 2004/2015 KPT Devil (62.3%, OB Vintage Limited Bottling for Anam na h-Alba / Kirchhellener Private Tasting Circle, Sherry Casks, 1019b, b#953) (red71): known as the Devil's cask, because it is limited to 666 bottles. Yet, this one clearly states 1019 bottles, of which this is #953. Hm. Nose: oilcloth and unripe-citrus peels. In fact, it is fairly fruity, with wafts of smoked bergamot. There is a dryness too, cocoa powder, and fancy, fruity nail varnish. Mouth: hairy horsepower. I find this one warm and challenging, with fierce ginger, progressing towards hot, chewy cherry sweets (Twin Cherry Gummies). Finish: surprisingly balanced, considering the fearsome ABV, the finish has white-chocolate powder and fudge. Nice. 8/10


sonicvince and Mrs. sonicvince leave around this time.


Gaija notes that one could easily abbreviate 'sideburns' with SB. But in the whisky world, SB stands for Springbank. So he brought one.

dom666, always the geography expert, notes that Campbeltown is on the tip of Kintyre -- the dick of Scotland, he says. The afore-mentioned 'rouflaquette' (French slang for sideburns) contains the word 'quette,' Belgian slang for 'dick'. So he brought Springbank too, seeing as the distillery is in the "dick" of Scotland (yes, it is far fetched).

dom666 pre-emptively asks me for a spare cork, sure that one of his will break when he tries to open it. As it turns out, the cork put the previous hours to good use, and spontaneously broke off! It is now lifelessly floating in the bottle.


Corkicide


Springbank 12yo b.1994 (46%, OB, 94/216) (dom666): nose: WD-40, engine grease, and mashed mango, as well as bolts in custard. Later on, it becomes drier, and displays faded leather. Mouth: pretty dirty, we have engine grease on mangoes. The latter becomes more obvious, the longer one spends with it. Finish: incredibly powerful at 46% (even after the monstrous 'farclas), it has quite a bit of pepper to cap off fleshy fruit. Oily tools hint at the engine grease from before. Subsequent gulps are juicy as fook, still with a lick of engine oil or grease. Amazeballs. 9/10

vs.

Springbank 21yo (46%, OB imported by Fourcroy, b. ca 2000) (dom666): what? No bottle code? Nose: fresh like a mix of toothpaste and shoe polish. This is sherry maturation at its best, really. Beautiful rancio, with prunes and rehydrated raisins. It grows dirtier with time, closer to a mechanic's workshop, and adds a whiff of tobacco, then flat cola. Mouth: rancio, clay floors. It is softly drying, with potting soil and ground sumac. Finish: long, earthy, drying. Darker tobacco shows up, at this stage, perhaps pipe tobacco (Semois). It is a very long finish too, with nuts and dried fruits. Amazeballs again, though less my bag than the 12yo. 8/10

vs.

Springbank 21yo b.2016 (48.2%, OB exclusively available for The Nectar 10 Years, Oloroso Sherry Hogshead, 342b,16/266) (Gaija): nose: this one is much more austere and mineral, despite a lemon-juice note -- lemon juice on limestone, you see? Time makes it dirtier, if still fruity/acidic, and certainly punchier than the other two. Mouth: the underlying current of fruit juice is balanced by a beefed-up mineral side. The second sip cranks up the the acidic fruit juice with pink grapefruit. Finish: long, juicy, it retains a strong mineral profile. In the long run, that grows to become plaster-y. The second sip is in the same vein. This one may just be my favourite of the three, tonight, despite the illustrious competition. 9/10


Tonight's Holy Trinity


Psycho [about USS Intrepid, an aircraft carrier-museum in NYC]: "I'm one of two people here who have touched a Blackbird."
ruckus: "Blackbirds are not on carriers..."
tOMoH: "Nor are Concordes on submarines!"


Kilkerran 8yo b.2018 (58.4%, OB Open Day 2018, Recharred Sherry Cask, 18/228) (STL): STL left hours ago, so we will never know the connection -- if there is even one. Nose: lukewarm bread, drying plaster, hay, and linen about to catch fire. Mouth: hot jam, stuck in a hot tin pot, which signifies hot metal and apricots pulp. It feels pretty hot indeed. Finish: a drying aspect that goes with the nosebleed metal. Proper dreary notes, I know: it is late. It is good whisky all the same. 7/10


ruckus [about tonight's music]: "Well, I'm an old fart talking, but..."
Gaija: "I can't stop you saying that."


The soundtrack: The Old Man of Huy - Man to Men



St. Kilian Bud Spencer - The Legend Rauchig b.2021 (49%, OB, ex-Bourbon Casks & ex-Amarone Casks, B#2) (kruuk2): here is an unusual whisky if we ever knew one! Bud Spencer has a beard, rather than sideburns, but that will do for tonight! Nose: roasted barley, farmyard, dry earth, caked on tractor tyres, perhaps lit cigarettes too. It has smoked citrus to boot (Buddha's hand? Oroblanco? Yuzu?) Mouth: ha! Yes, dried barley and lightly-smoked malt. Finish: long, replenishing, fulfilling. More toasted barley and light smoke. It is perfect for this time of night. 7/10


Technically, that is a beard


Psycho: "Actors used to do other things. Harrison Ford used to be a carpenter."
tOMoH: "That is why he was good in The Last Crusade: he knew how to find the cup of a carpenter."


Chilling


We retire to the lounge for an after-party; others have Bowmore 16yo 1996/2012 (46%, Morrison & Mackay Càrn Mòr Strictily Limited Edition, Sherry Butt, 844b), but I pass (notes here).

On the other hand, upon confirming that Gaija has never had a Banff, we all accompany him with Banff 35yo 1975/2011 (42.4%, Douglas Laing An Old & Rare Platinum Selection, 158b, b#149) Full notes here. For tonight, suffice to say that it effortlessly asserts its dominance over the twenty preceding drams. As JS says: when one is in the presence of glory, one knows it.


We finally call it a night around 6:45.


The following day, Edge decides to translate
Soundcloud from French to English
turning "Favoris" into "Sideburns".
Clearly no coincidence!

30 January 2023

28/01/2023 Burns' Night 2023 -- Sideburns (Part 1)

Back in ze Heimat for the year's most ambitious tasting. And ambitious it is! This year's edition has the highest attendance, and possibly the longest line-up since we started celebrating Robert Burns, back in 2004.


Let them come!


The theme this year is Sideburns, which should provide plenty of fun.

The pace is fast, and the accent is on social interactions, rather than analytical note-taking. Ah, well.

kruuk2, Psycho, sonicvince and Mrs. sonicvince, red71, Bishlouk, STL, dom666, Gaija, ruckus, adc and JS join me for the occasion.

Psycho is sporting a bushy beard and long hair that earn him the nickname Glandaf Le Brun (it is not a typo).



STL takes it upon himself to build the line-up, before three others cast doubt in his mind and help him spend another thirty minutes polishing it.



How many engineers to build a line-up?


To help them do that, I pour...


Irish Mist (65° Proof, The Irish Mist Liqueur Co. imported by Heublein Inc., b.1970s): we had this last year, but with his sideburns, Brendan (yes, I christened the bottle/soldier) must make another appearance! He gets a very similar welcome to last year's.


Although more than one thinks it is
Hibiki 17yo, it is merely a repurposed bottle


Also, amuse-bouches


The soundtrack: ruckus - Side B(urns)



At last, we are ready to start


Knappogue Castle 12yo b.2015 (46%, Knappogue Castle Limited Release bottled exclusively for Vinothek Massen and Dram Brothers imported by Castle Brands, 1st Fill Bourbon Barrel, 216b, b#125, L15 004 220) (red71): this does not fit in the theme in any way (boo!) Nose: hints of mint (Psycho), and juicy fruit (mango, mostly), some fresh herbs, penny walls, Earl Grey tea (Gaija), bergamot. It becomes more and more buttery as time passes, without losing its acidity -- something that is somehow accentuated by the appearance of pomegranate, usually not the butteriest of fruits. Mouth: an unexpected oomph, buttery fruit (in taste and texture -- think: mango), with a medicinal lick (Psycho). That texture is stupendous, buttery as smashed avocado. Finish: warming, fruity, here comes an onslaught of mango, bergamot and satsuma, in line with those older Irish beauties (not quite in that league exactly, of course). 8/10


adc: "The Knappogue ticks all my boxes."
tOMoH: "Would you say it's your favourite of the night, so far?"


Soup is served.


Carrot and orange


We talk about PSc, who could not make it tonight.
STL: "Who's PSc? Do you have a picture of him?"
tOMoH: "Yes, but there is a black circle in front."


Inver-Regal (43° Gay Lussac, J.H. Wham & Son (Largs), for testing purposes only, b. pre-1991): blended and bottled by Wham, both members of which sported beautiful sideburns, at some point. Nose: naphthalene and tar (Psycho). Everyone else agrees in describing it as a tad dirty. Gaija finds sriracha sauce, while STL declares fermented cabbage and garlic, and Psycho announces a late-coming, well-worn sock. Mouth: very floral, ripe with violets and nasturtium (STL and Gaija), which, red71 rushes to underline, is actually very pleasant. Finish: STL attributes it a Fino side. My full notes are here. 7/10


Andrew Ridgeley (of Wham fame)

George Michael (of Wham fame)
aka
Γεώργιος Κυριάκος Παναγιώτου


red71: "I'm getting used to it."
tOMoH: "When you have it in the mouth, it's even better... Usually the case."
red71 [grins]: "Ça sent le vécu! (Sounds like experience talking!)"
STL: "Ça sent le vieux cul! (smells like old arse.)"


Main course enters. adc managed to source regular (as opposed to vegetarian) haggis locally, to complement the veggie one from the UK (turns out we brought veggie haggis last year too). It is McLoughlins, rather than Macsween -- uncharted territory. It is good, though much more-finely ground than Macsween's, and less spicy. No-one finds it better than Macsween's, but everyone agrees that between McLoughlins and no haggis, McLoughlins wins every time.


All three McLoughlins haggises explode in the oven


Potato-turnip-and-swede bake


Parsnip-apple-and-sage mash also on the plate. Delicious.


dom666: "How did you smuggle the veggie one in? Did you do like drug mules?"
tOMoH: "No, it's vegetarian and pre-cooked, so it's legal. But I could have."



Clydeside 3yo Stobcross (46%, OB, b.2021, CBSCS 09845) (JS): Clydeside, geddit? Nose: fruit, banana bread (Gaija) and warm custard. Mouth: something earthy or floury (Gaija). Everyone is astounded at the quality, especially given the age. Bishlouk goes from "it is very good" to "it will be very good when it's ten or twelve," but then he drinks labels. It is very good as is. My full notes are here. Tonight, it is... 7/10


Rhosdhu 26yo d.1979 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#3236, b#163) (tOMoH): this one is obviously for Rhosdhu-flaquettes (from 'rouflaquette,' French slang for sideburns). Nose: anchovy paste, i.e. dry and salty (Psycho), soy sauce (Psycho), kroepoek (Psycho, still ruminating last night's Chinese takeaway). For me, it is exuberant mango. Mouth: génépi, Chartreuse (Gaija), smashed grapefruit, as well as avocado, guava and papaya. Finish: a strong alcohol presence (Gaija, STL, red71), makes for a long finish that some say could be better integrated. For me, it is papaya, guava, and mellow citrus (bergamot? Satsuma?) Full notes will follow. This is tOMoH's bag. Funnily enough, it is also the longest-aged whisky of this line-up. 9/10


Glentauchers 21yo b.2018 (47.1%, That Boutique-y Whisky Company, B#8, 803b, b#63) (ruckus): look at those sideburns! Nose: citrus all at once, with white grapefruit, pomelo, shaddock (Psycho says orange), then crystallised angelica and stem ginger, candied fruit, Gummibärchen, and citrus-y Douglas fir. Mouth: a touch of wood, and ripe-grapefruit peels. Finish: a touch of bitterness, and lots of citrus-y goodness (grapefruit), as well as a pinch of herbs. The evening's surprise, which seduces everyone, tonight. 9/10


Will you look at those sideburns!?


The soundtrack: The Old Man of Huy - Sideburns



STL demonstrates an impressive cake-cutting technique


Psycho [looks at the next bottle]: "It is a... Ha! Glenlivet. Same as mine, then."
tOMoH: "Aberlour-Glenlivet?"
Psycho: "Well, they're both made with the same water of the Livet river. Same whisky."
tOMoH: "Mmmmmkay."


Glenlivet d.1951 (70° Proof, Gordon & MacPhail, b. 1970s) (adc): same as Aberlour 16yo, indeed. :) The lion on the label has great sideburns, does he not? Nose: some interesting sherry notes, here, with coffee (Gaija), engine grease, leather, citrus juice peppered with some shoe polish. Minutes in, we have a soft, smoky note, and a nuance of metal gutters. Coffee grows in intensity, though never overpowers -- imagine tiramisù. Mouth: dirty! Here are shoe polish, old leather, cow dung, even. The second sip pumps up the leather, and adds chicory infusion to the mix. Finish: cured meat from the barbecue, and roast beef. There is no charred note, to be clear; just a lovely cured-meat cloak. It develops a sweetness, in the long run. It treads a tight, borderline sulphur-y rope, but that is so subtle and balanced it is hardly noticeable. In fact, it is really bloody good, and I hope to get to try this again. A strong, strong 8/10


Check out those sideburns!


sonicvince wanted to find something to relate to Magazine - Shot By Both Sides (because he reckoned being shot by both sides must burn), but ended up bringing something he simply felt like bringing.


Tomatin 1976/2001 (43%, John Alexander's Collection exclusively distributed by S.L. Major): it feels like we had this a few weeks ago, but it has in fact been four years, and that hurts. Nose: unbelievably exuberant, ripe with tropical fruit -- mango, maracuja, and, later on, lychee. Mouth: (very) acidic, it has more tropical fruit than one can shake a stick at, namely pronounced lychee, and sauced-up mango. What is there not to like? Finish: beside the obvious mango, it takes on an additional complexity with the emergence of plaster, crushed Aspirin, and crushed mango stone -- in other words: bitterness. Still, amazingly fruity, though. 9/10


The first cake does not last long.
The second hardly longer.


The next bottle appears. JS tells us about La Ribambelle, a classic series of comic books by Roba, the creator of Boule & Bill. One character in La Ribambelle, is Scottish: Archibald Mac Dingelling. In one episode, they go to Scotland, where we meet his uncle Angus, and other clansmen, all of whom sport impressive moustaches. Naturally, the Mac Dingelling have a rival clan, the Mac Klangbang, recognisable for their green tartan, and massive sideburns. In one strip, there is a bar brawl involving one member of each clan. The Mac Klangbang representative's Christian name is Murchinson, and his sideburns are typical of his clan. Thereby leading to... Ardna-Murchinson.


Check out those sideburns!

From Roba, La Ribambelle en Ecosse, Dupuis


Ardnamurchan 5yo 2015/2020 (46.8%, OB, 65% Bourbon & 35% PX & Oloroso Sherry Casks, B#AD/09.20:01, 15978b, b#13122) (JS): nose: refined smoke, roasted barley and cigarette ash, then a touch of strawberry toothpaste. Mouth: sandy, salty earth, warming and comforting. Finish: ashen and long, with a lick of dark cherry. Full notes here. Excellent young whisky. 7/10


Bishlouk gets up and gives everyone a piece of paper with an equation. tOMoH quickly decides it is too complex for tonight, and leaves it to the scientists to try and decode. A vain effort, as it turns out, because Bishlouk has no clue what the equation means. He does think, though, that it is odd maths, as is the next dram, a Kilkerran, which is triple distilled, rather than the usual double distillation operated at Glengyle. The odd equation is known as Burnside's theorem. Boom.


Boom, indeed.


Kilkerran 11yo b.2017 Triple Distilled (60.3%, OB Open Day 2017, 17/202) (Bishlouk): triple-distilled Kilkerran. Who woulda thunk? Nose: torn metal and warm thyme. Mouth: hot, it has some vanilla to round off hot metal, and a pinch of herbs in conversation with hot sugar. It is balanced and pleasant, in terms of flavours, but hot. Finish: long and warming, it delivers caster sugar in a way that makes me think of grain whisky -- or rum. 7/10


Aberlour 16yo (43%, OB Double Cask Matured, Traditional Oak Casks + Sherry Oak Casks) (Psycho): a-Burns-lour, says Psycho, who adds that this was stored on the right side of his cupboard. Ahem. Nose: heavy sherry at a low strength -- which shows: it is somewhat subdued, after the hard-hitting Kilkerran. We have leather belts, shoe polish, for one second, that soon morphs into cola. Mouth: mellow, soft, filled with chocolate custard and paste-like pudding. Finish: quaffable, easy-going. We see cola and maple syrup make up a dram that is well pleasant, even though it will not change the world. 6/10


The closest whisky name to 'Sideburns' is 'Burnside,' which is allegedly a blend(ed malt). Bishlouk therefore brought a blend.


Blended Scotch Whisky 20yo 1998/2019 (44.6%, Cadenhead Club, 1 x Sherry Hogshead + 1 x Sherry Butt, 500b, 19/250) (Bishlouk): nose: strong coffee, a notch of sulphur (Gaija), perhaps. But really: coffee, and mocha chocolate. Mouth: this has a huge mouth presence, explosive and toasted, with nigella seeds, toasted bread and flat cola, or Dr. Pepper. Finish: truly a fifty-fifty blend of cold coffee and flat cola, sprinkled with a pinch of ground black cumin. 6/10


Bishlouk departs, still unwilling to grasp or admit that Burns' Night is an all-nighter.


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