17/07/2026 Savoureur’s surprise birthday party

In April when JS and I bumped into PH, she invited us to come back to Limburg today to celebrate Savoureur’s milestone birthday -- unbeknownst to him. Here we are, then, with thirty-or-forty others, some of whom are familiar faces, but mostly new acquaintances to meet.

When Savoureur and PH make it to the venue and he spots us all, he is genuinely surprised and enthusiastic at the idea of spending an evening with friends.

Savoureur: "Thank you all for joining us here, some from outside of the EU, even!"

PH: “I booked dinner for forty people. Some have forgotten to come, but I did not cancel their food. You may have to help eat their share.”
tOMoH [to himself]: “Mission accepted.”

We all enjoy a glass of prosecco before proceeding to the real stuff. It quickly turns into an open bar and I do not know who brought what; notes are scant and I cannot always attribute the bottle to its owner.

James Martin’s V.V.O. (40°, James Martin imported and distributed by Distillerie Riunite di Liquori)

Nose: old-bottle effect, tin lids, jars of marmalade and copper coins.

Mouth: soft, mellow, it still presents hazelnut shells and a lick of copper.

Finish: nutty, timidly leathery, it serves scoops of caramel-and-hazelnut ice cream.

Comment: perfect apéritif.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks, T)

Clynelish 22yo 1995/2018 (56.7%, The Nectar of the Daily Drams, Sherry Cask, L18/420)

Nose: musky and husky, it promises dryness and animality. It is a Clynelish, after all. Fox’s skin, dried windfall, nutshells. Deeper sniffing makes it seem a little sweeter.

Mouth: dried dates, dried rugs and super-dry raisins. It is well marked by the Sherry, if not overpowered. There is a bit of rancio and elderberry compote oxidising in a cellar.

Finish: extraordinary balance, here, dry yet elegant, with a dried-fruit touch (prunes, Medjool dates, figs) and a faint animal aftertaste. It is fairly tannic, in the long run.

Comment: good effort. I prefer Clynelish in Bourbon casks, but hey!

Score: 8/10 (Thanks, MG)

Antipasto misto

Flatbread

Ireland 26yo 1989/2016 Volume 6 (53.8%, The Nectar of the Daily Drams Anniversary Edition for 10 Years The Nectar)

Nose: phwoar! An explosion of tropical-fruit custard, with no surprise and for maximum enjoyment. It starts with mango, continues with banana, grapefruit, apricot, berries… You get the picture!

Mouth: sweet and bitter, big, glue-y. It has lots of glue, in fact. Chewing releases an avalanche of fruits, cantaloupe and mango leading the pack.

Finish: citrus flesh, citrus bark, chopped mango in yoghurt, served in a copper goblet. Phwoar!

Comment: this is excellent.

Score: 9/10 (Thanks, F)

White Horse (unknown ABV, White Horse Distillers, b#8734189)

Nose: extremely fishy, it has crayfish, fish sauce, dried fish, salt cod, fish oil sprayed on hay bales. It turns drier and less original with breathing, but the initial impression is gobsmacking. It picks up pickled antipasti, perhaps, though that may be the food interfering.

Mouth: a tad weak at the knee, after two cask strengths, but it holds together. Machine oil, engine grease, sardine tins with a drop of oil still in it. It is really tinny, actually.

Finish: soft, if long, it sticks to the gob surreptitiously, like engine great or petroleum jelly. There is a bit of smoked chocolate at the death, and not much fish left.

Comment: interesting and original. It does not turn me into a White Horse aficionado, though. The tax seal reads 'ministerio', but there is no importer information.

Score: 7/10 (Thank, Savoureur)

Schweine Steaks mit Champignon's sauce [sic]
dazu Gemuüse und Rosemarinkartoffeln
(me)

Putenbrustfilet mit Pfeffer Sauce
dazu Gemüse und Rosemarinkartoffeln
(JS)

Littlemill 13yo 1990/2004 (43%, Signatory Vintage, Oak Cask, C#2974, 449b, b#64, 04/099)

Nose: hay, lemon zest, Aspirin, a drop of hot Merbromin. It also has hot set custard and peach blended into yoghurt. The second sniff brings strong rubber.

Mouth: creamy. No! Milky. It has pulped peach, persimmon (though not as thick), yoghurt, a sprinkling of grated Aspirin, and crunchy heritage apples with a rough skin. It is chalkier and chalkier with time.

Finish: more creamy, custard-y goodness with grated Aspirin peppered on it. Is that a medicinal touch? Perhaps! Medicine tablets. Some whole, some grated, jelly caps full of herbal preparations -- woah!

Comment: very good Littlemill that reminds me of another Signatory bottling we had recently.

Score: 8/10

Glenturret 30yo 1982/2013 (46%, Meadowside Blending The Maltman, Fresh Bourbon Cask, C#258, 242b)

Nose: a mix of strawberry bubble gum, inflatable beach balloons and cat sick. Is that weird or what? It smells like a grain gone wrong -- in a good way! Pineapple and melted plastic having an argument. The second nose is ridiculously fruity (unripe white peach and pineapple) in a chemical way.

Mouth: the bubble-gum-rubber hallucination continues, with melted wellies and torched strawberries. More plastic appears upon chewing (beach balloons), and the dryness that comes with that. Sweeter and even more chemical at second sip, with more bubble gum and Gummibärchen.

Finish: it scrapes a beach ball along the tongue and leaves it all burnt -- or tender, at least. It stays warm and plastic-y in the long run.

Comment: So original, but… it is a little too weird. Very, very particular.

Score: 7/10

Springbank 12yo 1999/2023 (46%, OB Norddeutscher Kaufmann, 236b)

Nose: a weird mix of rubber and farm-y notes. That will be tractor tyres, then, surely. Exhaust fumes, garden fire, faint manure, smoked roasted cereals.

Mouth: Creamy? Dry? It is chocolate pudding is what it is. Chewing brings back the smoked cereals, nice, sweet clusters, augmented with a dash of fortified wine. Breakfast of champions.

Finish: dry, mineral, it has smoked cereals mixed with quarry dust and bone-dry earth patties fallen off a tractor tyre.

Comment: pretty good. Well, it is a Springbank, innit. It is expected.

Score: 8/10

Dessert is served.

Tiramisu [sic]

 

A pause during which I try a Port.
Warre Tercentenary 1970 (unknown ABV, imported and bottled for Percy Fox)
It is very good, despite all the vegetables
sinking to the bottom of my glass.

A waiter brings an unclaimed tiramisu. Guess who claims it!

Me.

Ledaig 10yo 2004/2015 Edition No. 1 The Fat Cat End Bottling(58%, The Scots Whisky Forum imported by Brühler Whiskyhaus, First Fill Sherry Butt, C#15/740)

Nose: super leathery and mineral, yet there is also lychee behind it all (“Lychee or Lydaig?” JS asks) -- or is it rambutan? We have pickled pearl onions, onion relish spread onto lychees… How ancient is this? It smells like a 1970s bottling. Cocoa powder is sprinkled on top, and a dollop of shoe polish adds to the magic.

Mouth: pickled onion alright, sharp, vinegary and, actually, very nice too. Chewing unleashes a torrent of smoke, followed by a nearly-medicinal heat, which is a tad numbing. The second sip adds a spoonful of piping-hot marmalade.

Finish: strongly coffee-like, teeming with mocha and cocoa powder. It is earthy, dry, still good, yet no longer as elegant.

Comment: that nose was a strong 9. The mouth and finish are a little behind.

Score: 8/10

Cake is served.

Baumkuche, or tree cake

Bowmore 28yo 1996/2025 (50.3%, Malts of Scotland Rare Casks hand selected and exclusively bottled for The Whisky Dreamers, Caribbean Rum Cask, C#MoS25039, 155b, b#44)

Nose: pineapple-and-coconut juice with a. Lick of smoke. Next is washing-up liquid (with zero soapiness, mind), citrus and ash.

Mouth: mild, fruity, it has lemon, calamansi, grapefruit, pomelo. Chewing increases that and splashes it with Indian tonic water. There is more and more ash, to a point it is a little desiccating. The citrus stays on top, also desiccating.

Finish: acidic and ashy, it takes a few seconds to turn lemon-y, grapefruit-y, with acidic juice poured onto smashed glass.

Comment: very excited to try this one. It is very good, but I much prefer it the 2004 by the same bottler we tried in January.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks, F)

Springbank 1997/20017 (55.2%, OB Vintage, Re-Charred Sherry Butts, B#1, 07/155)

Nose: a blend of shoe polish and mint paste, toasted coconut flakes and smoked caramel — just a wisp of soft smoke, you know. Some decayed pineapple bark rocks up at second nose.

Mouth: creamy, coating, it has melted tar, black shoe polish, rubber soaking in blush-orange juice, a touch of liquorice. Chewing adds desiccating ashes, lint and hardened tar. It is overly rubbery at second sip.

Finish: menthol, tar, lint, dried citrus peels, liquorice root. That combines at second gulp, long, tarry, rubbery, and the liquorice moves from root to allsorts and bootlaces.

Comment: decent.

Score: 7/10

Out of my bag comes 18.15 35yo 1966/2001 Curry powder and dark rum (67.5%, SMWS Society Cask Old Masters Collection, Sherry Cask)

Comments: “It’s like a cannon shot on squirrels or something,” says T. “Intense? Yeah, one could say that!” MG tells us, who will drink it fifty-fifty whisky and water. “It is intense, but also very dry,” F says. Whether they like it or not, I rejoice that I brought something that gets the tongues wagging. Everyone has their own taste; this is unforgettable. Full notes here.

The one-upmanship begins.

76.22 11yo 1989/2000 Quark cream cake (58.5%, SMWS Society Cask, Butt, 498b)

Nose: super-dry and mineral. Quarry dust, chalky sandstone. Maybe Sauvignon blanc and crushed plum stones.

Mouth: it has some fruit juice, but it is mostly desert-dry orange zest more than the fruit’s juice.

Finish: dry, borderline herbaceous, this has lichen on metal pipes.

Comment: never know what to expect from a Mortlach, especially an SMWS Mortlach. This is not a winy beast, but neither is it a fruit deluge like the series bottled around 2011-12. It seems it may have been a Switzerland special, though no access to the bottle means I did not see an importer label.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks, T)

Glen Elgin 31yo 1986/2018 (48%, Signatrory Vintage The Un-Chillfilitered Collection Specially Selected by and bottled for The Belux Tour 2018, Hogshead, C#2526, 215b)

Nose: grapefruit peels and zest. There are splashes of yoghurt, but it is mostly a zesty number, with citrus zest on a baking tray.

Mouth: juicy as hell, with citrus and marmalade leading to liquorice allsorts.

Finish: fruity, it has chewy sweets, candied papaya and pineapple cubes.

Comment: fantastic drop.

Score: 9/10

Mortlach 25yo b.2021 (46%, Gordon & MacPhail Distillery Labels imported by Kirsch Import, Sherry Casks, 210181)

Nose: cured meat, marinated cutlets, and nuts. Perhaps there are sandstone chippings?

Mouth: woah! It is a meaty yoghurt. Rosemary, roast beef, blush-orange rinds and a drop of wine, very dark and musky.

Finish: lots of blood oranges and rosemary, oil -- it is marinated orange wedges, really. It also has distant cinnamon sticks. The second gulp is drying and makes the gums throb.

Comment: works well.

Score: 8/10

The GlenDronach 20yo 1995/2016 (54.4%, OB Single Cask, bottled exclusively for Whisky-Museum Kyrburg Kirn, Pedro Ximenez Puncheon, C#3805, 662b, b#381)

Nose: Madeira wine or Sherry. It is extremely winy. That opens up to give melting dark chocolate in a Glendronach fashion, roast beef, and other cured meats in the background. It is a little fresher at second nose, with minty cotton candy and onion relish.

Mouth: very-dark chocolate melted into a puddle. A little musky at second sip, it sees a fox rolled in melted chocolate and sprinkled with dust.

Finish: ink, liqueur chocolate, it comes a bit too close to Edle Tropfen for my taste, but narrowly escapes sickly disaster.

Comment: JS detects soy sauce and everything she does not care for in official Glendronachs. It is not bad, but less my profile.

Score: 7/10 (Thanks, Savoureur)

Time to go. I have eaten so much I am about to explode.

As we depart, Savoureur insists we smell two drams. He tells us both are Macallan 2006/2020 (57.3%, Gordon & MacPhail Speymalt, C#9672, 294b). One is one of the guests', the other is his own bottle that he brought to London last month and has, therefore, matured for three additional days in the UK. Geekery aside, they do smell different. How much of that is due to the fact one was open a month ago, the other today, and what is the result of one spending three days in the UK is, of course, anyone’s guess. Full notes here.

Happy birthday, Savoureur!

09/05/2026 Lord of the Rings MkII

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26/04/2026 The Whisky Fair (Day 2 -- Part 2)

Time is now accelerating. We, on the other hand, are tired. We must prioritise cautiously.

tOMoH: "1cl of this, please."
Him: "Only 1cl? You will want more. It is so delicious."

Caol Ila 1984/1996 (50%, Brae Dean Int. imported by Moon Import Dovr-Tutes-Mares, Oak Cask, b#0279)

Nose: very composed (JS). Crushed seashells, sand and fishing nets. Caol Ila. At the same time, it is incredibly elegant.

Mouth: sweet, marzipan-y, it is also salty. Incredibly, the combination works a charm. Crushed seashells join the above and they start an otherworldly dance.

Finish: Jacob Ree-ZOMG. Only Caol Ila from 1983-1984 can blend sweetness, salt and kippers this way.

Comment: emotional dram. The bloke was right: I do want more. There is too much left in the bottle for me to leave with it, however. Cannot afford it.

Score: 10/10

Back to where we started, then.

Deanston 25yo 1997/2023 (51.6%, The Whisky Jury exclusively bottled for The Antelope, Refill Hogshead, C#1966, 257b, b#6)

Nose: a few nuts, hazel tree, haybales. This is fairly dry on the nose.

Mouth: mead. It really has this allure of honey liqueur. There are some nut shells too, but that is more discreet. A drop of tar appears, after chewing for a while. It gains the intensity of a tame mouthwash (none of that blistering Listerine).

Finish: hazelnut liqueur, hazelnut shells, funky armpits (JS), ganja (JS).

Comment: JS has to repeat those two notes twice: the TWJ boys cannot believe what they hear. They then decide they would probably make more money selling ganja.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, TWJ)

Glenrothes 36yo 1986/2022 (41.4%, The Whisky Jury, Refill Hogshead, C#860002131, 203b, b#6)

Nose: Fraises Tagada. Bunches of flowers follow, then chewy red sweets.

Mouth: mellow, velvety, this has peach nectar, smashed apricots. It picks up strength in the long run and adds gravel to the mix, which is unexpected.

Finish: very, very jammy. Peach jelly, raspberry jelly, strawberry jam.

Comment: I love this, which I hate to admit. I could really do without following Glenrothes on top of all the other distilleries.

Score: strong 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, TWJ)

Ben Nevis 26yo 1998/2025 (53.8 %, The Whisky Jury exclusively bottled for Germany, Refill Hogshead, C#1559, 177b, b#172)

Nose: although much less exuberant than the 1996 offerings, it bears similarities. Crushed strawberries and some unripe gooseberries. The latter confers it a slight bitterness, of course.

Mouth: quaffable, silky. It takes a while for the alcohol to bite a little, at which stage it becomes a little numbing. Still, we get watermelon slices.

Finish: it grows into a proper fruity number, here, full of melon and watermelon. That said, a clear alcohol bite kicks into gear shortly thereafter.

Comment: it has been quite the Ben Nevis parade, at this festival, eh? This one is lovely. It probably deserves 8, but after all the incredible drams we have had, it is hard to justify it.

Score: 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, TWJ)

Peated Islay Single Malt 31yo 1990/2022 (51.8%, The Whisky Jury bottled for Whisky Age, Refill Barrel, C#4404332, 259b, b#8)

Nose: comforting as a fireplace in a bothy. It should be entirely out of place, in this German sunshine (in a hot tent, no less), yet it works a treat. We see roasted apples take over, only softly smoky, and cigarette ash.

Mouth: smoked-orchard-fruit compote in which a smoker extinguished their cigarette. Never put out your fag in food. There are other things going on, such as hot metal pipes, but they would take more time than I have to discern and dissect.

Finish: a similar mix of roasted fruits and ash, which reminds me of the cast-iron grille used in a fireplace to roast apples.

Comment: excellent. It would possibly score higher in a more-relaxed setting.

Score: 8/10

Okay, there is one last big ticket that GB told us about and that we want to try. Armed with the dram, we go sit in the rafters.

Bowmore 30yo 1963/1993 Anniversary (50%, OB, Oak Casks, b#218)

Nose: herbs come out strongly (sage, rosemary, marjoram), only to give in under the assaults of shy tropical fruits. We have baked mango, papaya, jackfruit. It is not the debauchery of a 1964 distillation, but it is pretty clear all the same. Jellied berries follow suit, carried by an earthy undercurrent. There is a puff of smoke as one tilts the glass. If it is not a surprise that a Bowmore should have a smoky edge, it is unexpected that it should only come at this point.

Mouth: fruit jelly -- raspberry, strawberry, gooseberry. It feels a tad watery, for a second, but that does not last long. The second sip brings drying elderberry behind a bolder, more-powerful attack.

Finish: jammy. We spot jellied bananas, peaches, berries of all kinds, yet also a pronounced earthiness. Desert dirt, farm paths, fertile soil in which vines grow to produce plump grapes. It is earthier and earthier upon repeated quaffing, with blackcurrants, elderberries and an earth that turns bitter and sticky as clay, or even plasticine.

Comment: it is difficult not to let emotions influence the scoring, here, and not only because it is the final hours of the festival. It is a revered bottling that I have been keen to try for a long time, and it is, indeed, outstanding. Does it justify the current price tag of £10k-£12k? A question for each individual taster to answer. For that money, I reckon there are better things to be had, but that is only one old man's opinion.

Score: 10/10

JS: "LDNSRN."

She is right. Life does not suck, right now."

The time has come for goodbyes. Perhaps a couple of farewell drams.

Talisker 15yo b.2026 (57.1%, OB for Dornoch Castle Whisky Bar, Refill American Oak + 2nd Fill Port Seasoned Hogshead, 240b)

Nose: immense. Mineral and saline, it is also peppery (obviously). It really is a mix of ground pepper, concrete dust and salt.

Mouth: surprisingly jammy, it soon folds from an injection of salt water -- tonnes of it. Then, as Keith Flint used to say, the fire starts. Peppers of all colours rise and rise. It properly sears the mouth, this.

Finish: blackberry cough drops, sweet and chewy, are augmented with lots of black pepper.

Comment: very good, if not necessarily my favourite profile. Talisker aficionados will be over the moon with this. Yes, dom666, I am looking at you.

Score: 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, ST)

Ledaig 19yo 2005/2025 (65.5%, D&M Winchester imported by Scout Drinks, Butt, C#90002, 170b)

Nose: torched farmland, scorched earth, bonfires of manure.

Mouth: marmalade at first, it does not take long to reveal just how hot it is. It is a marmalade set on fire. That is soon joined by more black pepper than even the preceding Talisker had.

Finish: burnt wood, hessian sacks and sulphury fertiliser.

Comment: KCF really selected beautiful casks, even if this is less my personal preference.

Score: 7/10

Alright, this one has been staring at me for a while, let us go crazy.

Springbank 23yo 1965/1989 (50%, R.W. Duthie imported by S. Samaroli Ageing Monography, 660b, b#14)

Nose: incredible depth. Mint crumbles, stewed apricots, lychees, rambutans, mangoes, peaches, persimmons.

Mouth: a symphony of persimmons, peaches and jackfruit, with backing strings by Galia melon, carambola and jojoba.

Finish: insane. Fresh, fruity, long, jammy, juicy, coating, excellent.

Comment: not bad, this. This time, it is definitely because we are in the final sprint, but I get Bowmore eyes from a Springbank. Not sure that has happened before. P.H.W.O.A.R.

Score: 10/10 (Thanks for the dram, EG)

Another one? If you insist.

Tamdhu 17yo b.1977 (80° Proof, Cadenhead)

Nose: beautiful old-bottle effect. Jammy tin lids and a bit of brine.

Mouth: oh! yeah, this is jammy alright. But then, near the marmalade and stewed fruits, we have lots of tin. It is not merely the lids of the jam jars; it is as if the whole jar was made of tin. And, of course, that has transmuted the jam inside into something else.

Finish: jam stuck to the cast-iron cauldron, a pinch of soot, charred hazel wood.

Comment: how strange that this is the first Cadenhead bottling we try this weekend? There were so many, and yet... Well, no-one got bored. Anyway, this one is amazing and it is sad we have so little time to spend with it. By the way, the earliest such bottlings were filled in 1977. That is also the last year in which alcohol content and volume were only indicated in ° Proof and fl. oz. respectively, as well as the year Cadenhead moved from 47 Netherkirkgate to Golden Square. The former address is written on the label. Three tell-tale signs that this was bottled in 1977.

Score: 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, Em)

Someone had a good day!

Enough. The exhibitors are packing up.

JS and I join the Swissky Mafia and walk them to their hotel, then to the restaurant, Schwarzer Adler, where we remind them that we are not spending the evening with them, this year. It is time for goodbye.

I will drop off bags at the accommodation, then join another group of merry folks for dinner at Burgkeller.

Bärlauchkartoffeltaler auf Selleriepüree mit gegrilltem Grünen Spargel, dazu Gorgonzolasoße (JS)

Spargelsalat mit Himbeerdressing, dazu karamellisierter Ziegenkäse (me)

Around the table are Germans, Dutch, Italians (pwah! ;-) ), Russians (one of whom lives in Cyprus, just to make things less obvious), Taiwanese, an American and a Belgian. A couple of drams emerge (how could that not be the case?), namely Highland Park d.2005 (59.7%, Duty Paid Sample for C. Dully Selection, Sherry Hogshead, C#37, ca. 300b) and Bunnahabhain 27yo 1989/2017 (48.7%, Signatory Vintage Cask Strength Collection, Hogsheads, C#5858+5859, 250b) (I think), but it is really all about camaraderie -- or, as Savoureur once put it, "seeing old friends and meeting new ones." We speak all the languages represented and enjoy the moment together. We talk about food specialities of the various countries we represent and watch JKr win a rare Japanese pressing of Pink Floyd's Dark Side Of The Moon at auction. And, yes, there is an episode in which one of the Russians, looking for pictures of his bicycle holiday, shows me a video of him walking casually, twice, on glowing embers, then another video of him walking casually and naked into a frozen lake. "And here is video of me fighting bear," JS later adds in a Russian accent. A truly global meeting with nothing but positive vibes. Even if I mercilessly tease the Dutch more than once, I hope they know it is in good spirit.

All good things must end, and it is time to bid everyone goodbye. "Shall we see each other in Milan?" "No, I'm not going. What about Singapore?" One would think these are all wealthy jet-setters, but they are not. Just regular people consumed by a voracious interest in whisky.