24/10/2026 Shakespeare

The soundtrack: Various - Belgium's Finest

JH suggested the theme, who is in town just for this. Just kidding! He will, of course, attend a symposium on paper napkins at the same time.

YM, JMcD, SOB and JS join JH and myself for an afternoon of high-brow theatre, then.

Speaking of which...

tOMoH channels his inner-SOB to present Tea-tre-ninich

Teaninich 46yo 1975/2021 (47.4%, Sansibar JD’s Personal Choice No.4, Bourbon Hogshead, 158b) (tOMoH)

Nose: chamomile (JH), very floral (SOB), marygold (YM), gingerbread, Majorquese almond cake (JH), juicy orange-y cake (JH).

Mouth: super fruity, but also briny, salty and spicy (JH), pickles and jalapeños (JH).

Finish: mango (SOB), oily-rubbery (JH), tea (YM).

Comment: I do not spend nearly as much time with this stunner as I should. My full notes are here.

Score: 9/10

JH [about his recent trip to Skye]: "We were staying in an old castle -- actually McD-related."
JMcD: "You're welcome."

We talk about logos.

JS: "The Watt Whisky [logo] is weird. Every time I see it, I think: 'What were they thinking?'"
tOMoH: "Should be called the Twat Whisky logo."
[YM looks it up]
SOB: "Have you found it?"
YM: "Yeah. I don't know. The colour scheme. Usually, that means you need to go to the hospital."

The soundtrack: The Coronation Of King George II

JMcD brought something from a Danish distillery to mark The Tragedy of Hamlet, Prince of Denmark. He adds that this is a peated version, dried with peat and heather, likely harvested on a blasted heath, the place where the witches live, in Macbeth.

Stauning Smoke (47%, OB) (JMcD): salt (JMcD), pine (JMcD), cigar smoke (JH), malted barley (YM), liquorice (JH), Salmiyakki (JH). It is roasted apples for me, and heather brush, borderline hay. Mouth: Bolder here, it has fine smoke, roasted barley, toasted cereals. It still has juicy apples, roasted, even charred in places. Some earth comes up on the late tip. Finish: grappa (YM and JH), eau-de-vie distilled from pine stuff (JH). 'Speciality smoke' (JH), scented wood chips for burning. 7/10

tOMoH introduces the next bottle: he bought it from OB, whose local pub used to be The Shakespeare.

Auchroisk 27yo 1988/2016 (48.6%, Cadenhead, Bourbon Hogshead, 258b) (tOMoH)

Nose: a fruit bomb. Strawberries, peaches, tropical fruits and candied ginger (JH).

Mouth: front-loaded, it hits bigly (JMcD). It packs quite a punch indeed, with dried ginger, dried peach slices, dried mango slices and rehydrated-dried-fruit water.

Finish: it drops (JMcD). It is indeed relatively short at first impression, until one realises a comfortable heat stays in the stomach. And then fruits shine again, wave by wave.

Comment: we took notes for the miniature version of this, when it came out. This full bottle fares considerably better.

Score: 9/10

SOB unveils Othello's character: Port Dun-Das-demona. He continues by saying this particular one was bottled for Cadenhead's Milan shop and observes that so many plays of Shakespeare's take place in Italy. In particular, he insists, Two Gentlemen of Verona, in which one of the characters, Lord Prospero Visconti, is the Duke of Milan. As if that were not enough, he notes that the Shakespeare pub in Bethnal Green has a plaque that reads "Est. 1842", the same year as Cadenhead.

Port Dundas 31yo 1988/2019 (50.8%, Cadenhead specially bottled for Cadenhead Whisky Shop Milan, Hogshead, 228b, 19/389) (SOB): nose: a Port-Dundasian metallic edge, perhaps, and oregano. We find the syrup of stem ginger lurking behind it all. Mouth: syrupy (SOB), it has lots of aromatic herbs, some candied, some fresh. It becomes chewy with minty chalk or chalky mint, though that turns into silky custard in the long run. Finish: 'me like' (JH), fruit cake (JH), apricot cake(JH), very buttery, like a vanilla cookie (JH), canelés (YM), almond croissant or lemon drizzle (JH), brown sugar (YM). It has a wonderful custard-y texture reminiscent of flan or vanilla pudding. This is something! A very strong 8/10

Food enters.

YM and SOB brought enough for a garrison:
Coppa Piacentina, Rabbit Terrine, Saucisson with Walnuts
Pinocchiona IGP, Pinocchiona Salame, Veroni Prosc. Parma
Gouda 48 Months, Fleur du Maquis, Pecorino Sardo, Pecorino Romano
Sourdough bread 

And JMcD brought the now-traditional
blueberry cheesecake and almond tart

JS introduces a Tulli-bard-ine. (If you live under a rock, Shakespeare is known as The Bard).

Tullibardine 33yo 1972/2006 (43.1%, Dewar Rattray Cask Collection, C#2597, 141b) (JS)

Nose: Austrian dessert with curd and rum (JH), Topfenstrudel (JH).

Mouth: acidic and lively, very yellow. Then, we have a vanilla custard with soaked raisins and prunes.

Finish: a yellow-fruit explosion with a note of salted caramel (SOB), bitter marmalade (JH), orange pith (JH).

Comment: JH rates this 'yes' out of ten. It is still amazing two decades after first trying it. I am glad we have it later than number one in the line-up, for once. It allows it to slap even harder. Full notes here.

Score: 9/10

The soundtrack: Various - Romeo + Juliet: Music From The Motion Picture - Volume 2

JH hits gold with a separated pair: Tobe Ardna Tobe?

Tobermory 1994/2026 (55.3%, OB Hand Filled Exclusive Edition, Oloroso Finish, C#015) (JH): nose: very elegant, nutty, it has almonds, hazelnuts, soft leather. The second nose may well offer milky coffee. Water elicits cherry liqueur and nutty cappuccino. Mouth: mincemeat pie (YM). It is dry (Oloroso, you see?), with old shoe polish and old leather, yet a leather that retains its softness, dry, not crackly. Further are tins of dried black modelling paint. It is a bit bolder at second sip, with old tyres, liquorice allsorts, spearmint (JH) and blackened cassia bark. Water makes it milky, adds diluted cherry juice and a sprinkle of mocha. Finish: dry-not-drying, it has crusty shoe polish, not rubber. Bone-dry prunes, an old bag of raisins. The sting of mint (SOB) followed by berries (SOB), candied chestnuts (YM). A fair amount of melted dark chocolate shows up in the long run, augmented with freeze-dried raspberry slices and a pinch of ground mocha. Here too, water increases the milky impression. It has a fantastic pudding-like texture and a mocha-chocolate taste. Beautiful and an excellent swimmer. Might bump my score with water. 8/10

YM tells us that A Midsummer Night's Dream has a character called Highland Puck. Lolle.

4.221 16yo 1999/2016 Light, luscious and lovely (55.9%, SMWS Society Single Cask, 1st Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 156b) (YM): nose: lemony (YM), lemongrass (SOB), custard, vanilla-ed sugar. Later on, it has an air of freshly-cleaned corridor in a government building. Actually, there is a whiff of antiseptic, even. Mouth: lemon meringue (YM), lemon curd (SOB). It has smoked cream, custard and a beautiful freshness that is almost pine-y. Finish: torta della nonna (JH showing off his dessert knowledge). It is long, assertive, a trifle smoky, and comforting, in the long run, soothing. It has salt and crushed glass, but that is hidden underneath pine-y custard. Excellent drop. 8/10

The soundtrack: Mogwai - Zero Zero Zero

SOB brought something bottled in the Warehouse Tasting range, because his favourite productions of Shakespeare were those at the Donmar Warehouse. This is from an undisclosed Speyside distillery and he tells us that many characters in Shakespeare's plays are not (fully) disclosed. Also, this was matured in a Port cask -- for Portia, a character in The Merchant of Venice. Finally (yes, he is really inspired by this theme!), it is allegedly a Glenfarclas -- or a Glenfar-Claudius, for the main antagonist in Hamlet. Ooft.

An Undisclosed Speyside 15yo 2010/2026 (56%, Cadenhead Warehouse Tasting, Refill ex-Bourbon Barrel finished in Ruby Port Hogshead since 2019) (SOB): nose: warm wood, aromatic wood, seasoned wood chips for barbecues, plum skins. Mouth: JH finds it savoury as gravy, while YM detects walnuts. It is a blackberry paste or elderberry jelly to me, a tad bitter. Dusty uncoated frying pans show up too. The second sip pushes boiled horse's hair. Finish: fruity, it has prunes, figs, raisins. It is mahogany that shines at second gulp, though it remains fruity and juicy. Delish. 7/10

JMcD: "The burger scene in Newcastle is amazing. They have burger battles."

YM tells us Shakespeare's plays are a canon of thirty-nine plays, according to Wikipedia. This is, therefore, from distillery #39. Also, it is called Magical and Heavenly, adjectives that are often used to describe Shakespeare's work.

YM: "This was distilled on the 30th April 1990..."
JH: "Which is the anniversary of Shakespeare's circumcision!"

39.135 26yo 1990/2016 Magical and Heavenly (58.8, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 186b) (YM): nose: JH calls it funky, with soju and fermented stuff, perhaps mirin. JMcD finds shortbread. It is buttery to me, with kouign-amann, then a metallic water bottle. Maybe it is JH's suggestion, but I get shrimp crackers. JH finds it iron-y and oxidised, while YM talks about yellow Chartreuse. Mouth: not very sweet, not very fruity, it has fermented stuff (JH). This has a lot of dandelion petals, stewed and cooled. Not that this is cool -- it is fairly hot, in truth. A tad bitter and becomes very bitter as one chews. Hotter at second sip, with burning bunches of dried flowers or hay. Finish: yellow flowers, with the softness of petals and the bitterness of stems. It gets hotter and bitterer with each gulp. Not sure if it is the sequence, my preference, or what else; this does not resonate with me, today. 6/10

JH finally gets to the Ardna part of his Tobe Ardna Tobe.

We insist he has it in the dickhead glass, too

Ardnamurchan 8yo 2018/2026 (63.3%, Cadenhead Authentic Collection, Bourbon Barrel, 228b) (JH): nose: tuna tataki (JH), barbecued miso (JH), pink pepper (JH and JMcD). It is very peaty, with mud patties and farm paths. Rice pop and popped cereals (JH), Kinder Country (JH), caramel, maple syrup (JH), sweat from a builder's armpits. Mouth: oh yeah! Caramel puff wheat (the pack with the cartoon frog, you know?) and overbearing mud. This is super earthy, with chilli flakes showing up only belatedly. The second sip stings the tip of the tongue. Finish: incredibly well-integrated peat (JH). It gives the same impression as upon eating something spicy, jalapeño or such (SOB). Water renders it sootier and spicier (YM). Scorched earth, ashes, torched wheat. The second gulp is very cereal-y. 7/10

The soundtrack: Various - Best Of Techno - Volume Four

As a nightcap, we have something of JS's. tOMoH asks when A Midsummer Night's Dream takes place. On the 21st June. It is really the end of Spring-bank.

Springbank 21yo (46.5%, Atom Supplies Darkness Limited Edition, Oloroso Sherry Octaves Finish, b#115) (JS)

Comment: stale Coca Cola (JH). No! Pepsi Cola or Red Bull cola (JH), Ricola (JH), Coca Cola Classic (in a yellow can) (JH), Cola Bottles (the sweets) (SOB). My notes are here. 9/10

SOB: "Darkness. The week before Hallowe'en, too."
tOMoH: "Did the Bard write anything about that?"
SOB: "Hallowe'en? Don't think so."
tOMoH: "Lazy git."

That concludes tonight's enjoyment.

14/07/2026 Belgium #12

GN, Psycho, ruckus, Gaija and JS brave the heatwave to join me online for a few drams.

 
Dram #1

Nose: fruity and fresh (GN), it has citrus (GN) and apricot (Psycho).

Mouth: sweet, light and fruity (GN). On the other hand, ruckus finds it challenging, in the heat (29°C where he is).

Finish: apricots and other yellow fruits (Gaija), pineapple (GN).

Comment: GN finds it the perfect apéritif. Apart from ruckus, who warms up to it (see what I did?), it is widely seen as a strong starter. Gaija reckons a classic Highland or Speyside profile, whereas GN finds it reminiscent of Ardbeg Drum, minus the smoke. My notes are here. The bottle is empty, so I do not try it, tonight.

Strathisla 1999/2010 Here Come The Rain Again (46%, La Maison du Whisky Belgique, C#45530, 247b)

My Internet connection drops. I join back five minutes later.

tOMoH: “I see I haven’t missed much. Psycho is explaining carnival rides to everyone!"

Dram #2

Nose: GN finds it more aggressive than #1. Psycho calls cedar wood and cedar sheets, Gaija detects a waxy old-bottle effect and a peach aroma.

Mouth: dried fruits and dry fruits (Gaija, who specifies roasted almonds), lacquer (Psycho), a soft industrial touch (Gaija), engine grease (ruckus), dusty furniture (Psycho).

Finish: Gaija and GN love this; Psycho finds it a bit rough -- in a pleasant way. GN spots a Bourbon-y side that he enjoys a lot.

Comment: this has become ridiculously fruity, after seven months in a nearly-empty bottle. It is coming closer to the 46yo Sansibar offering. Full notes here.

Teaninich 45yo 1975/2021 (49.5%, Bartels Whisky Highland Laird, Bourbon Hogshead, C#14796, 35b, b#20) 9/10

Dram #3

Nose: coffee grounds, Sherry (Gaija), shoe polish (Gaija), Ça-Va Seul (Psycho and ruckus).

Mouth: syrupy and liqueur-like (ruckus). GN guesses it is a Pedro Ximénez maturation; it is Oloroso, but it feels much sweeter now indeed. Psycho finds it fresh, while Gaija notes peach. It is dried-fruit cake for Psycho, who calls it mellow, sweet and round. “The word you are looking for is: ‘smooth’,” I add, channelling my internal PG.

Finish: sweet and fruity. The more one tries it, the sweeter it gets.

Comment: another one that has dramatically improved in the almost-empty bottle. My full notes are here.

Deanston 11yo (50.1%, The Hampstead Beverage Collective Explorers & Elements Series, 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Cask, 72b, b#72) 8/10

Psycho: “Du cirage à cuir.”
tOMoH: “Par opposition avec quoi? Du cirage à manger cru? Du cirage à velours?”
Gaija: “Du carpaccio de cirage!”

Dram #4

Nose: pepperspray (GN, letting his past as a hooligan transpire), a hint of sulphur (Gaija), pepper-flavoured sweets (Psycho).

Mouth: slightly astringent (Psycho), Tabasco (GN). Gaija calls it complex and explains he likes the palate much more than the nose.

Finish: syrup, maybe sirop de Liège (Psycho). ruckus sees the rough edges of hazelnut, to which Gaija adds that it is a tad tannic. GN insists it has the explosiveness of youth; Gaija agrees it is characterful.

Comment: “this is the one you drink to put you to sleep” (GN). There is a general shock when they see the ABV: it is clearly higher than the first drams, but no-one realised just how high it is. They find it well integrated. This is smashing as ever. Full notes here. No-one here tonight was present when we had it in November; that is now corrected.

Glenfarclas-Glenlivet 11yo 1980/1992 (59.6%, Cadenhead Authentic Collection 150th Anniversary Bottling, Oak Cask) 8/10

Dram #5

Nose: very cereal-y (Psycho), it has pepper too (GN), as well as a herbaceous and floral profile (Gaija). Gaija and Psycho find it perfume-like. Psycho even adds that it has a pharmacy smell.

Mouth: fresh, herbaceous, floral (ruckus and Gaija). It goes extremely well after the heavy-hitting Glenfarclas, and seems easy, by comparison.

Finish: liquorice (GN), fresh as a Lowlander (Gaija), herbaceous, perfume-y, it drinks as a génépi (Gaija)..

Comment: GN is not enthused by this. The others like it. Gaija, ruckus and Psycho had a chance to try this last month. I am glad none of them did. There is none left for me to try. Full notes here.

Glenlochy 29yo 1980/2010 (52.8%, Signatory Vintage Cask Strength Collection, Hogshead, C#2649, 265b, b#71)

Excellent time.

22/05/2026 Glenfarclas

Glenfarclas 12yo (45%, OB for F.W. Hempel Metallurgical GmbH): nose: fruity and very dry, it shifts between hay and dried grapefruit peels. The latter take the upper hand, and even gain moisture, after a moment. Not much, but better than nothing. We catch droplets of grapefruit juice or grapefruit oil. Then, those same grapefruit peels receive the wine treatment: wine-cured grapefruit peels it is, rich and heady. It has a faint smell of an old blend (ye aulde blende); not in a dusty-cardboard way -- more a generic, old-school roughness, almost vinegary, though, of course, not that extreme. One may be tempted to call it briny, but there is no salt whatsoever. It goes back to fruity tones anyhoo, now closer to pressed currants. The second nose has a pile of wood, twigs, really, ready for the fire, slowly crumbling to dust. Last is a glass of heated flat cheap cola. Mouth: old school alright! This was bottled at a time when only a certain demographic would order a Scotch: men of a certain age, mostly smokers. Stale barley syrup, caramel and toffee, cardboard, tobacco oil... Chewing simply increases all that. It is intensely faded orange, a colour inextricably linked to 1970s curtains completely impregnated with tobacco smoke. It has a hint of peppermint at the top, but stale Mokatine is soon the dominant. Oh! and some ashes too. In fact, we have the content of an ashtray in which someone spilled half-a-glass of water. Counterintuitively, that presents a certain charm. The second sip may be a tad brighter, less orange, more yellow, with fresher grapefruits and even pineapple. Tobacco is still present, if more discreet. Finish: stale Mokatine all the way! Dusty caramel on cardboard, oily tobacco, wine-stained dried orange peels, ginger powder, cinnamon powder, ground cloves. It does not come across as overly woody, yet there is an undeniable wood influence at play. A wood-panelled smoking room with faded curtains. No-one is smoking at the moment, but last night's ashtray has not yet been emptied and the fireplace needs a clean. Retro-nasal olfaction gives us a whiff of cigar. Not so much the smoke or the leaves; more the smell that coats the walls of the mouth. Cigar breath, in other words. Genuinely an old geezer's dram. The second gulp plays a soft bitterness against the fruity acidity. Bay leaves or cigar leaves -- definitely cigar leaves, in fact, with a lick of stale Mokatine for good measure. I find this less convincing than on the night; a bit generic. It grows on me, however, and I could go to 8 on another day. 7/10

25/04/2026 The Whisky Fair (Day 1 -- Part 4) Rarities for Charity

This year, JS and I are attending the Rarities for Charity tasting with elskling and LsR. OO is here too, as are thirty-or-so others. Gérard Hofmann is hosting with Henrik Schmidt. Patrick de Schultess is busy elsewhere, so he is not there.

J. & G. Grant from the Glenlivet District 5yo d.1967 (40%, Grant Bonding imported and distributed by Girolamo-Luxardo)

Nose: austere, it has lots of cardboard, pickled gherkins, hay. JS finds OBE and toasted cereals in an old library. A cardboard box used to transport vanilla.

Mouth: same cardboard action, perhaps leather and, if any fruit, it is bone-dry strawberry slices. elskling finds it mineral.

Finish: cereal-y, a bit raw. We may find vanilla biscuits (JS) or digestive biscuits. It is so chock-full of cereals it could also just be Horlicks.

Comment: good, provided one likes cereals. How unlikely is it that we would try two of those J. & G. Grant in less than a year, eh?

Score: 8/10

Starter is served.

Spargelsuppe

Tomatin 28yo 1982/2010 (55.3%, Scotch Single Malt Circle, Sherry Cask, C#29, 574b)

Nose: this is entirely taken over by the Sherry cask. Fruits do kick into gear, fortunately. It is a compact and almost intimidating nose, though. Last to appear are crayons and dried peach slices.

Mouth: och! Pickled red onions, pearl onions from a jar. That recedes to deliver unripe berries, but it remains a big, scary Sherried dram.

Finish: creamy and fruity, it has lots of berries, yet that is sadly hampered by a sour, briny note.

Comment: considering how difficult these bottlings are to get hold of, it is always interesting to try one. I cannot say I am entranced by this particular one, all the same.

Score: 6/10

The next bottle is presented by the Scotch Single Malt Circle ambassador herself. She explains in detail how the founder introduced the Scotch Malt Whisky Society into Germany who gave her a choice in the 1990s: to pay a large sum of money and continue or to jog on. She did not have said large sum of money and parted ways with the SMWS, but carried on pushing liquid, now with another club, the SSMC.

I had no knowledge of that story and welcome the informative introduction.

Clynelish 9yo 1990/1999 (57.4%, Scotch Single Malt Circle, C#3210)

Nose: mint paste applied on waxy fruits. It has spent wick too. Honestly, it is not perfectly balanced, out of this freshly-opened bottle, but it is promising. The second nose has vanilla custard and a sweet shortcrust.

Mouth: mmmh! Wax, yellow fruits punctuated with a lot of pepper and a pinch of ash. The waxy fruits probably come out most, but it is also rather strong, a sensation increased by the presence of white pepper. Water tones that down and lets the fruits shine brighter.

Finish: dry, hot, waxy and fruity. It has a lot of ash propping up yellow fruits (plum, Mirabelle plum, peach). Water makes this softer and fruitier, and increases the presence of yellow and white fruits, which eclipse wax and wick almost entirely.

Comment: this is a belter. Were it not for the imbalance on the palate at first, it would score higher.

Score: 8/10

Henrik goes geeky-and-three-quarters for the next bottle. He tells us (too much about) how to date a bottle of White Horse, how the various sovereigns on the seal give the era, which label goes with which bottle engraving, how the brand name evolved, what the thickness of the tin foil tells us et caetera. Twice, the audience claps to put a stop to the logorrhea; twice, he tells us he has more to say. Being a geek myself, I am torn: what he tells us is immensely interesting; on the other hand, we have a strict deadline. I also notice he is losing the crowd at pace.

Tin-foil stories.

On the right, a 1980s bottling.

On the left, a 1940s bottling.

In fact, the explanation takes so long that JS's right-hand-side neighbour pulls out a bottle from his bag and starts pouring it. "It has the white horse on the label; I thought it would be interesting to try them side by side."

Main course enters at the same time for total overload. I elect to eat first.

Pasta with mushrooms and courgettes

LsR: "I am reminded that only the French can make bread."
tOMoH: "I am reminded that the French abroad are insufferable."

Glen Elgin 12yo (no ABV, OB, no bottle size, SC803)

Nose: hay and muesli punctuated by yellow fruits.

Mouth: a lovely old bottling, it has lemon zest in cream custard. Citrus rises and rises.

Finish: soft and citrus-y, the hay note is a little too pronounced for me.

Comment: always nice to try these old dusties.

Score: 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, T)

The Blended Scotch Whisky of the White Horse Cellar (86.80° Proof, White Horse Distillers imported by Browne Vintners, b#AU915749, b. ca. 1940s)

Nose: it smells well integrated, but also a bit mass-produced. We have suede and hay, I guess.

Mouth: soft, it continues dishing out suede, now with leather and corduroy cushions.

Finish: easy, it has a lick of leather, dry hay and horse's hair (or is that the power of suggestion?)

Comment: just like the one we had earlier this month, this is fairly nondescript and not worthy of the reputation it enjoys in some circles, in my opinion. And I that it contains Malt Mill does not change my opinion.

Score: 7/10

After spending too long on the first four drams, we pick up the pace.

Lochindaal 12yo 2010/2022 (49.9%, The Finest Malts for DramOff, Bourbon Barrel, C#4395, 72b)

Nose: roasted fruits and faint smoke.

Mouth: sweet, porridge-y, it is also acidic, fruity and farm-y to an extent. Some find it peaty, but I do not. It does become salty at second sip, on the other hand.

Finish: long and bold, dry, smoky, farm-y in a mud cake way.

Comment: unremarkable. There is nothing wrong with it; I simply do not find it impressive.

Score: 6/10

Irish Single Malt 28yo 1989/2017 Vol.1 (56.2%, Limited Whisky Investment The Monkey Series in co-operation with Sansibar, Bourbon Cask, 164b, 16/05058)

Nose: mango purée, melted papaya, squashed persimmon, butternut purée (JS), then baked puff pastry and stewed peaches.

Mouth: wonderful. Mango turnovers followed by hot metal baking trays and baked satsumas. This has 'pastry' written all over it.

Finish: lots of hot turnovers slightly tainted by the metal tray they were baked on. It is a bit unbalanced, here, too liberal with the metal, if very acceptable.

Comment: we are nit-picking. It is not one of the great Irish, but it is a great whiskey. By the way, the bottle code suggests it was bottled in 2016, whatever the label reads.

Score: 8/10

JS: "It is lacking in maracuja."

Dessert.

Tiramisù

Glenfarclas 12yo (45%, OB for F.W. Hempel Metallurgical GmbH)

Nose: another one that is full of fruity turnovers, with baked mangoes and apricots, smashed papayas and melting persimmons.

Mouth: creamy and fruity, it has a bite alright. It is hot, metallic and turns acidic with time.

Finish: pretty acidic here too, it has sour fruit jellies, followed by a faint bitterness of unripe fruit.

Comment: good.

Score: 8/10

JS: "It's a complete Ball-indall-ache."

I pull out empty sample bottles, as I know I will not finish the line-up intact and I do want to enjoy the drams, at some point. elskling sees my Post-Its.

elskling: "Qu'est-ce que c'est que ce travail de cochon? Here, take one of my labels!"

A bottle comes out of nowhere, delaying us further.

Glenturret 29yo 1989/2019 (44.7%, Signatory Vintage Cask Strength Collection, Hogshead, C#238, 253b, b#112)

Nose: grout, mortar, crumbly Korean pear. It is chalky indeed, and I find that really challenging, at this point.

Mouth: big and lively, it has some fruits, but especially a lot of horsepower. Later on, we detect rocket and apricot. Aprocket?

Finish: rocket is right! Peppery and bitter as fuck. Spinach, rocket, peach stones. There are vague hints of apricot, but they are easily missed.

Comment: not sure why anyone thought it was a good idea to slide this one here.

Score: 6/10 (Thanks for the dram, Babelfisch42)

We are now so late and I am starting to feel the effect of alcohol so much that JS and I decide to skip the next dram. Fortunately, I have empty samples, so we will try it later.

The Balvenie 32yo 1966/1998 (42.1%, OB Vintage Cask, C#6432, 264b, b#36)

Springbank d.1963 (46%, OB imported by Preiss Import, b. ca.1985)

Nose: we go stratospheric. This has an incredible depth. With every new sniff, it keeps rolling out more fruits (ripe plums, Mirabelle, greengages) and marzipan. The source simply will not dry up.

Mouth: perfect balance of fruit, herbs, ginger and varnish. Not sure how that reads, but it is harmonious on the palate.

Finish: incredible finish.

Comment: I will need to spend more time with this. I am no longer in the right state to express my appreciation.

Score: 9/10

GH: "1963 is a rare vintage."
PhG: "Great vintage."
GH: "Yeah, for those born in 1963. Not as good as those born in 1966, but shit happens."

We are more or less kicked out. We made it alive. Just.

Ambitious tasting. The selection only had things that most of us would not have been able to try anywhere else. That some were less my thing than others is irrelevant: they were indeed rare, and that is what was promised. The food was excellent (yes, even the bread) and the company relaxed and friendly.

Personally, I thought two things could be improved: the introduction of each bottle was a bit loose in places, which tried the patience of some. As said, being a geek myself, I found the flood of information interesting, but I would have preferred a better balance between information and time-keeping. The second point is the attendees shoehorning their own bottles into the line-up. It comes from a very kind intention (they want to share), but the effect is rarely what they hope for. Instead, it disrupts, distracts, delays, and sometimes destroys the rest of the line-up (remember that London Whisky Club tasting, during which a generous customer offered an unplanned Millburn Rare Malt at 61.9% right before the planned Banff at 43%?) The hosts worked hard to build a line-up that works; it is inconsiderate at best to kibosh that line-up with an additional bottle.

Ultimately, fun was had. Tomorrow morning will be difficult. 

25/04/2026 The Whisky Fair (Day 1 -- Part 1)

Year three, and, already, habits are well established. I pick up breakfast from Bäckerei Huth.

As I come back from the bakery with my loot, I discover that EG is staying in the same building. Ha! Ha!

"Wilkommen," he shouts from the top floor.

Replenished and ready for action, JS and I head to the venue where we meet elskling and LsR. They are flabbergasted that I am wearing camouflage, not a shirt and a blazer. I has got to keep they on they toes.

They invite us to join them in the queue; it is a bit of a dick move, but we accept. We also know how quickly the queue moves and know it will make virtually no difference to those whom we just set back by a couple of places. Indeed, when the doors open, we are in in seconds.

JS and I skip the usual gathering place, today. Last year, we missed out on some bottlings because we were too late in the day. This year, we decide to prioritise those above anything else. That takes us to The Whisky Jury, the next to last stall in the tent, the furthest area of the festival. The staff recognise us immediately. It is quickly clear we rushed for nothing, as they have nothing for sale. At least, we can try their bottlings.

All weekend, we pour Caperdonich 11yo 1968/1979 (70° Proof, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseur's Choice) and 57.4 15yo 1979/1994 Fearsome indeed; smoky, spicy and savoury (63.1%, SMWS Society Cask). I will not explicitly mention when anymore.

Bowmore 21yo 2005/2026 (52.8%, The Whisky Jury, Refill Hogshead, C#250906, 224b, b#224)

Nose: smoky pickles followed by creamy peach in sea air. JS finds it a bit rubbery.

Mouth: smoke, gravels, pebbles. It opens to reveal passion fruits and chargrilled nut shells.

Finish: a lot of ash and char, but also lovely fruits (peach, mango, papaya).

Comment: what a way to start! Perhaps my score is too generous (especially when compared to later drams), but I am seduced.

Score: 9/10 (Thanks for the dram. TWJ)

Ben Nevis 28yo 1996/2025 (47.8%, The Whisky Jury in honour of Derek John Smith, Refill Hogshead, C#1321, 259b, b#105)

Nose: fresh, but a bit closed. Some herbs painstakingly come through. It ends up giving some fruits, mostly apples. Then, timid white peaches enter the scene.

Mouth: ah! A bit dirty, it pushes engine grease as well as unripe fruits.

Finish: a soft explosion of fruits such as peaches, plums and even persimmons. It has some dirty funk, after a while, reminding us that it is a Ben Nevis indeed.

Comment: this should improve in the open bottle. Already, it is good.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram. TWJ)

JS spots another Ben Nevis. Or two.

Ben Nevis 30yo 1996/2026 (45.3%, The Whisky Agency & Sansibar A Joint Bottling Collection Spring 2026, Hogshead)

Nose: toffee coated in tropical fruit juice. It smell as creamy as smashed peach.

Mouth: and creamy it is too, with a soft acidic note and a more mineral aspect.

Finish: the dirty Ben Nevis funk is overpowered by lovely peaches. JS finds it nutty to boot.

Comment: woah!

Score: 9/10

Strathmill 37yo 1988/2025 (49.4%, The Whisky Agency & Three Rivers, Hogshead)

Nose: fruit juice sprinkled onto precious wood. It has a minimal rubbery or glue-like touch that merely gives it complexity. Or is it wood lacquer?

Mouth: it is all about texture, here. The taste is good, but unremarkable, especially after that nose. Smoked peach and crushed peach stones, a dollop of glue to keep it together. However, it is the lovely creamy texture that catches the attention.

Finish: what just happened? Varnished wood? Fruit purée? A lick of rubber?

Comment: holy molly, this is good.

Score: 8/10

Strathmill 37yo 1988/2025 (45.1%, The Whisky Agency & Sansibar A Joint Bottling Collection Spring 2026, Hogshead)

Nose: jasmine, rosehip, honeysuckle and sarcococca. Then, Fraises Tagada take over.

Mouth: it has a clear woody structure, with a minimal bitterness and lignin. All that disappears as soon as a creamy fruitiness emerges to shine and shine, augmented with a droplet of fortified wine for fun.

Finish: warming and fruity, it gives peaches and persimmon in a straw-filled wicker basket.

Comment: wonderful.

Score: 9/10

Auchentoshan 26yo 1999/2025 (50.6%, The Whisky Agency & East Village Whisky Company for Birthdays United, Barrel)

Nose: a bit mute at first, it ends up peddling pomelo and pink grapefruit in a yoghurt form.

Mouth: initially soft, it gains vigour with time. Pepper, lemon and lime zest, perhaps oregano too.

Finish: creamy and chocolate-y, this has mild chocolate augmented with lime zest.

Comment: very good, if not the stunner that some other recent Auchentoshans have been.

Score: 8/10

Glenrothes 36yo 1989/2025 (44.8%, The Whisky Agency, Hogshead, 184b)

Nose: waxy and leathery, this has citrus peels sniffed off of a leather sofa.

Mouth: mellow, fruity (yellow fruits), with a touch of leather on the tip of the tongue.

Finish: more yellow fruits, now topped with berries. It is a creamy finish that never ends, by the way.

Comment: even this non-fan of Glenrothes is taken by this.

Score: 8/10

This guy's polo short makes us think of
Chief-Franconian MV
who sadly could not make it, this year

Glen Keith 30yo 1994/2025 (53%, The Whisky Agency, Barrel, 263b)

Nose: funky! Straw, hay and Lederhosen. We saw a bloke wearing a Dirndl, earlier; this is that. Later on, we have a muddy herbs emulsion.

Mouth: the fruity bitterness at play is taken to great lengths. Orange rinds, grapefruit peels. Indeed, it is fruity, but not extravagantly so.

Finish: bitterness continues, almost rubbery, reminiscent of tyres.

Comment: it is delicious, if clearly not as seductive as other Glen Keiths from that vintage.

Score: 8/10

Glen Grant 26yo 1999/2025 (51.2%, The Whisky Agency, Hogshead, 203b)

Nose: deep and dark this has dark berries aplenty, perhaps honey-glazed mushrooms.

Mouth: a robust bitter Sherry maturation from what I can tell, with myrtles and blackberries on top.

Finish: it is bitter here too, though it is more pine cones than needles (which the official notes talk about) and, really, closer to dark-wood furniture.

Comment: although decent, this is much less my thing.

Score: 7/10

That is our clue to visit another stall. Oh! Here is Kirk Barleycorn.

Highland Park 24yo 1972/1996 (55.9%, Adelphi Distillery, C#1657, Rotation 96/546 PH18/96)

Nose: pickles and smoked fruits, and those fruits keep rising. Peaches, plums, kumquats.

Mouth: ooft! Powerful, it has a tonne of pepper that almost hides similar smoky, pickled yellow fruits.

Finish: creamy as smoked peaches. Pickle brine with only a whisp of smoke.

Comment: challenging and excellent.

Score: 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, Kirk)

Hello elskling, hello LsR.

Springbank 16yo d.2001 (46.8%, OB Duty Paid Sample, First Fill Hogshead, Rotation 683)

Nose: dirty, soot-y smoke gives way to juicy fruits. JS spots barbecued or grilled pork, then sulphury fruits.

Mouth: silky, soft (what?), it has some pepper, after a minute, and drying rancio.

Finish: assertive, not brash, it has rancio, droplets of Sherry and musty clay floors.

Comment: another very good Springbank.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, LsR)

JS comes back from an expedition and shares:

Islay 27yo b.2025 (47.8%, C.Dully Selection, Bourbon Barrel, Vatting 133159C, 316b)

Nose: ashy, it has burnt branches turning to ashes, then tobacco and warm cigar leaves.

Mouth: ashy, drying, with a little bit of fruit too.

Finish: much softer a finish than expected, it has yellow fruits and still fine ashes.

Comment: good.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, CD)

Karuizawa 31yo 1981/2013 (56%, Number One Drinks Company Noh Whisky, Sherry Butt, C#155, 595b)

Nose: beautiful Sherry, elegant and varnishy. It is surprisingly balanced, yet its sheer power emerges gloriously with time.

Mouth: strong, prune-y. It has a bold rancio kick.

Finish: big, muscular and earthy, it has lots of prunes and a strong rancio. Earthy fruits (prunes, elderberries) and a soft woody touch.

Comment: excellent Karuizawa. It still is not my go-to profile, but it is unquestionably well made.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, elskling)

Glenfarclas 25yo b.1977 (70° Proof, Gordon & MacPhail to commemorate The Queen's Silver Jubilee imported by Co. Import)

Nose: pickled lychee, rambutan, mangosteen.

Mouth: jasmine and lychee rub elbows with egg white and omelette. That pickled fruit, though...

Finish: wonderful. It has many of the same fruits we found on the nose. Long and luscious finish with lychee and white peach.

Comment: have we found the dram of the show yet? GB recommended this yesterday when we bumped into him on the street. He was not exaggerating. How fitting to try this today, four days after the late Queen's birthday anniversary, and on the day German television broadcast a documentary on the subject that I watched this morning?

Score: 9/10

Caol Ila 26yo 1977/2003 (57.7%, Douglas Laing The Old & Rare Platinum Selection, 86b)

Nose: a faint smoke introduces seaweed, pebbles licked by the lapping (sea water) and marzipan.

Mouth: sweet and salty as only Caol Ila can be, it has sea water and marzipan again.

Finish: inky sea water and a shovelful of sand, before it continues with candied citrus peels.

Comment: classic Caol Ila from a certain era. The main attraction, here, is how limited this is. But even without that, it is excellent.

Score: 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, GB and thanks for sharing, elskling)

We move again.