24/02/2023 Hillside

Hillside 25yo 1970/1996 (61.1%, OB Rare Malts Selection): nose: sawn wood, quarry chippings, stone dust, a drop of cider vinegar, and distant cardboard, a typical marker for this distillery. It is not exactly lush and welcoming, but -- hey! What did you expect? Next up are sliced (yellow) onions, dust puppies from an old broom brush, crumbling dried bulrush, apple pips, boot-sole-dry roast beef. At last, it opens up to reveal more-appealing notes, such a s waxy marzipan and fleshy stone fruits. It remains a rather austere affair, but it is at least trying not to appear rude. In fact, it proceeds to oscillate between the dusty cardboard notes and its fruitier side, just to keep one guessing, and that elicits interest alright, regardless of which aspect one prefers. The second nose is like entering a shed in which wood is stored, ready to be burned in the fireplace -- a damp clay floor, but an altogether-dry atmosphere. Here is also peppermint that has long since expired, and has therefore lost a lot of its potent smell. A drop of water opens it up dramatically, and allows citrus to shine. Mind you, it is dried-out orange peels, ground into dust, but still. It also feels warmer, and adds a vague juiciness of blood orange and pomelo. Much later on, tilting the glass introduces a pasture-like quality: earth, trampled by cows, or dried dung, both very faint. Mouth: a little brash at first (RMS strength, innit), it feels like licking red-chilli powder off a slate, so hot and rocky it is. Underneath that is a delicate fruitiness, with peaches so hot they might as well be on fire, apple pips dripping oil, and grape stems, also moist with oil. Cardboard is never too far, and neither are onions, this time pickled. They are not invasive either, merely in the background. Over a few minutes, the palate develops an unexpected earthy note of clay. The second sip is as wild and unruly, with an abrasive attack, even. We have peppermint-y lime, at this point, intimidating, due to its concentration, but actually quite nice, in tOMoH's opinion. The texture seems to grow thicker, from almost vinegar thin to a mint-y paste. Water softens it, and makes it an almost-gentle, citrus-y juice, showcasing bergamot, kumquat, Kaffir lime, or ugli fruit, and a pinch of sugar to keep the acidity under control. Finish: surprisingly discreet, it displays drops of cider vinegar on dusty cardboard, cured beef slices, brine. Hardly any of the fruity notes made it this far. On the other hand, dried bulrush makes a late-but-lasting appearance, and it leaves the tongue properly parched. The second gulp packs a stronger punch; it delivers a lime-and-mint paste that feels refreshing, yet also a hefty dose of pepper, blended with stone dust. That counterbalances the freshness, somewhat. None of that lasts very long. The only impression that remains after a few seconds is that cardboard-y dryness. Once more, a drop of water makes for a very different experience, one in which the desiccating cardboard is swapped for juicy citrus. At this stage, that juice has chunks of carambola in it, and only a minute portion of crushed mint leaves. What a difference! It is another challenging Hillside, just like the 1997 edition was. There is certainly an audience for this sort of profiles: I am part of it, even though I would not drink loads of it! 8/10

09/08/2021 Hillside

Glenesk, Hillside, Montrose. To-may-to, to-mah-to.

Hillside 25yo 1971/1997 (62%, OB Rare Malts Selection, b#0914): leftover from this tasting, ahem, almost five years ago. Nose: firstly, it clears the nostrils. Secondly, it is a big, robust Highlander, not too rugged, but pretty intimidating nonetheless. It has a lot of metal, in a tool-shed way, ground avocado stones, then verdigris and gravel -- the moss-covered shingles at the bottom of an emptied aquarium. The more one sniffs it, the more it goes back to the tool shed: oxidised gardening tools with wooden handles, leather gardening gloves, dried to the point they have lost all flexibility, an old bottle of fertiliser and sacks of hazelnuts, harvested seventeen seasons ago. And then, it reveals more metallic notes: hacksaws, sickles or scythes, chainsaw oil, old rakes with a few dead leaves between the teeth. The second nose seems a little grassier, in a freshly-mowed-lawn sort of way, and has walnut oil to boot. With water, the austerity is dialled down. Oh! It remains a robust Highlander that smells like whisky, yet it now also has jam on toast and preserved lemons to accompany a wool plaid and hot, cast-iron fire pokers or tongs. Mouth: big. Very big. It has shovelfuls of ash, dried tree bark, rancio, wine residue, lichen, ground hazelnut shells. The texture is frighteningly acidic, stripping, even. All that fortunately calms down, after a wee while, even though it does not become welcoming in the slightest. The old garden tools come back alongside chainsaw oil and nutshells. In the long run, roasted apricot stones and, in fact, all kinds of fruit stones appear. It would be a mistake to think this is fruity, however. It turns a little creamier as the mouth gets accustomed to the brutal ABV, but it is well bitter. As it did on the nose, water cranks up a jammy-toast note; pepper is liberally sprinkled on that jam, as is ground sumac. Finish: warming, not hot, the finish is very long and has its difficult aspects, namely the musk of a wet cat. It is hairy, dry and drying, with metal aplenty (if you have ever licked a razor blade, or a pencil-sharpener blade, this is it), and some herbs (marjoram, dried dill, tarragon). Repeated sipping brings chocolate into the mix; an interestingly-herbal chocolate. Not mint chocolate -- no! More like marjoram chocolate, enhanced with ground pepper. It is much more pleasant than it may read. Kaffir lime leaves are the last thing to show up... Or are they bergamot leaves? Water confirms the bergamot leaves, this time with a bit of fruit too. Old tools subsist, even if they are less invasive, lichen on stones, mould-covered citrus and marjoram, still. Retro-nasal olfaction sees a butter knife recently used to cut a slice of frangipane tart that is slowly being covered in mould. Challenging dram. I like it, but I do not think I could drink lots of it. 7/10

19/12/2020 DW's 2020 Christmas bash (Part 1)

With Cadenhead's tasting room closed, the traditional yearly gathering is obviously virtual, this year. That removes some limitations: DW went crazy and invited even those people he only half likes. The bill was simple: send DW as many blind samples as there are participants and he would take care of the dispatching. How many people is that? Twenty-two? AN, BA, BC,Cavalier66, CBr, CC, DC, DW, EC, EMcG, JA, JB, JS, JW, JMcC, MSo, PF, PP, PS, SD, VK, tOMoH, as well as BB, who ends up not making it. adc is in town, so she comes and goes.

Holy cow! That means half a litre of whisky per person, assuming that everyone sticks to 2cl samples... Naturally, PS could not resist sending two samples, and DW did not want to be outdone by one of his guests, so he prepared three.

What could possibly go wrong?

I join late and miss the first dram altogether -- JA's Dalmore 15yo (40%, OB).

The pace is fast and it is more of a social do than a deeply-analytical tasting. Notes are brief.

Dram #2 (PS)
Nose: fresh, hay-like, with a touch of fruit.
Mouth: pastry-like, lemon pie and some blackcurrant (once PS has revealed what it is, it is so obvious).
Finish: full-on blackcurrant indeed.
Comment: lovely Invergordon.

Invergordon 45yo 1964/2009 (43%, Forbes Ross & Co. Private Cellar Cask Selection) 7/10

From here on, DW organises us in breakout rooms of three to five people to drink two or three drams at a time. It makes the whole seem less frenetic, and allows quieter people a chance to talk (rather than be drowned by PS). The groups change every time, which means one gets to catch up with virtually everyone. Clever.

Dram #3 (tOMoH)
Comment: this one is mine, so I take no note. See here. 

Glenesk 1982/1995 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice imported by La Maison du Whisky, IE/BDB) 8/10

Dram #4 (EMcG)

Nose: super farm-y, this one has hints of smoke, tanned leather, drying mud cakes. The whole is flirting with fruit.
Mouth: quite a bite to it, chilli punch, mud again, hazelnut vinegar.
Finish: muddy, punchy and fruity.
Comment: the reveal explains why I like it so much, even if it seems different from the first time.

Cooley 11yo 1992/2016 Open Day "Big Tasting" 2019 (53.4%, Cadenhead Malt Festival, Barrel) 8/10

Dram #5 (AN)
Nose: acetone, ether, citrus-y esters.

Mouth: acidic custard, sharp, blade-y, still citrus-y, then slate-like.
Finish: blade-sharp again, citrus-y, with a bit of lichen. It turns vegetal (JS), with carrot foliage and lemon-tree leaves.
Comment: not convinced by this one. Another one I have tried before and was not more convinced by then.

Aberfeldy 22yo 1996/2018 Jenna's Choice (52.2%, Cadenhead Malts Festival, Hogshead) 6/10

tOMoH: "You are right. Acetone. That's bang on!"
DC: "Thanks, that means a lot."
tOMoH: "..."
DC: "I don't say that sarcastically."
tOMoH: "I didn't mean it condescendingly either."

Dram #6 (DW)
Nose: custard, paper dust (adc), citrus.

Mouth: nondescript, then, strangely, it turns into a poultry fest.
Finish: grainy, this now has pineapple and sweet corn.
Comment: the finish redeems it.

Magic Cask b.2020 (46%, Compass Box, 92% First-Fill Bourbon Casks + 8% Oloroso Sherry Casks, 5538b, L 11.03.20) 7/10

EMcG explains he used a syringe to fill his samples; a syringe he used only once before -- to stuff chicken. He is worried that the taste of gravy has tainted the whisky.
VK: "No, tOMoH would have spotted it."
tOMoH: "Crispy chicken wings..."
VK: "He would have called it 'jus', though."

Dram #7 (VK)
Nose: soft vanilla notes. In fact, all is softness in this nose. Mirabelle plums, raspberries.
Mouth: soft and sweet, very quaffable.
Finish: gentle, vanilla-y, custard-y.
Comment: this is too easy to drink, just lovely.

Burnside 26yo 1991/2018 (46.7%, Cadenhead, Bourbon Barrel, 174b) 8/10

Dram #8 (DC)
Nose: distinct strawberry bubble gum. Simple, but efficient.
Mouth: mellow, pastry-like, the palate sees more strawberry bubble gum, as well as custard pie.
Finish: lots and lots of berries for a creamy finish.
Comment: well, that is pleasant, innit?

Daftmill 11yo 2008/2019 Summer Batch Release (46%, OB, Bourbon Casks, C#056+058+060+062+065+066, 1760b) 8/10

Dram #9 (CBr)
Nose: wine-y, this one smells like soft-leather bags at first, then develops to unveil hay and nuts.
Mouth: porridge and berry jam.
Finish: some tannins from the wine, cough drops (AC), syrup.
Comments: I can see this one being quite divisive, because of the wine influence. And indeed, several tease CBr for choosing a wine cask, though CBr claims it is 50/50 sherry and Bourbon casks. Also 50/50 malt and grain. Yes, it is a blend.

Black Bull 12yo (50%, Duncan Taylor, Sherry and Bourbon Casks) 7/10

Dram #10 (JW)
Nose: perfume, cosmetic powder, vanilla. If this is not a Bourbon cask, I will eat my hat.
Mouth: peach, magnolia and confectionery sugar.
Finish: similar notes of peach, shortbread and vanilla.
Comment: efficient, quite simply.

Bunnahabhain 22yo 1991/2014 (47.2%, Whiskybroker.co.uk, Sherry Hogshead, C#801580, 206b, b#4) 8/10

Dram #11 (BB -- who could not make it tonight)
Nose: dry (as in: floury), powdered sugar and soap. Shortly thereafter, peach and banana slices grow in intensity.
Mouth: mellow, it has grilled banana slices, sprinkled with confectionery sugar and hand wash.
Finish: more ashy soap, banana slices, a certain chilli kick... and a timid slap of tropical fruits (maracuja and papaya).
Comment: nice. We all guess a Japanese. All wrong.

Blended Scotch 39yo 1979/2018 (53.3%, Berry Bros & Rudd exclusive to Royal Mile Whiskies, Sherry Butt, C#4, 385b) 7/10

Dram #12 (EC)
Nose: grated grapefruit, confectionery sugar, professional hair gel. The second nose has hints of smoke too.
Mouth: pure pineapple juice (JS) and a pinch of herbs.
Finish: long, soft, yet assertive, it has lots of sweet fruits (peach and pineapple).
Comment: Love this one. Probably my favourite of the session. In other circumstances, I may be convinced to rate it higher.

Imperial 22yo 1998/2020 Monologue (52.1%, Chapter 7 A Whisky Anthology for Europe & Asia, Bourbon Barrel, C#104355, 218b) 8/10

Continue reading here...

23/11/2020 This is an Esk-distillery

 Monty is not here to try this with me, but I do know someone who is learning Python. And this distillery is dead.

Glenesk 1982/1995 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice imported by La Maison du Whisky, IE/BDB): nose: cardboard, at first, then vinegar. It is not the dodgy vinegar from the official twelve-year-old, though; rather a soft brine and pickled red onions. Another minute, and it is walnuts, fallen off the tree, laying on the lawn, waiting to be picked up (and to stain the hands that do so!) Walnut vinegar, walnut liqueur, then kalamata olives in brine -- oh! this is brine-y indeed. A touch of (brown) shoe polish (the tubed kind), papier mâché, greasy newspapers from an old chip shop. Lastly, cardboard ashes emerge, mixed in with fresh mandarin peels. Mouth: unexpectedly sweet, it has the bitterness of walnut skins to supplement walnut liqueur, and a drop of orange juice. There is a remnant of the brine, but it is softy-soft; perhaps the brine of a jar of pickled red onions was used to deglaze a frying pan in which red-onion slices were fried until they caramelised and released all their sweetness. The reduction is clear, yet it does not affect the whisky too negatively, I reckon, keeping the vinegar in check. Finish: it has an edge -- an almost-cardboardy, fleeting edge. That disappears almost as soon as it is felt, to leave the velvety impression of a well-balanced walnut liqueur again. Caramelised red onions, soft and sweet, walnut oil and distant Virginia tobacco. Not the complexest and not necessarily the most easily accessible, but totally up my alley! 8/10

Alright, here it is:

28/02/2020 Clearing the shelf #25

Preparation for Whisky Show Old & Rare, while waiting for dom666 to arrive. He will have them all when he joins me.

In the meantime...

Glenesk 1984/2004 (43%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice, JD/DCG): nose: fusty cork, exotic wood and currants -- blackcurrant, redcurrant jelly, elderberry, blackberry jam and blackberry bubble gum. New leather-bound books show up, then freshly-lacquered shelves. Wax is next. Esk can be a little off-putting and vinegar-y, but this one is enticing, to say the least! Mouth: soft and juicy, it has all the currants from the nose: blackcurrants, blueberries, elderberries, with what seems to be a drop of ink. It is fresh and lively without being in-your-face. Sherbet, tame peppermint and green foliage (chives?) Finish: more currants and berries, with added toffee, in the finish. Dark chocolate and a dollop of whipped cream -- a Black-Forest gâteau, in other words. :-) The balance is tip-top, at 43%, in my opinion. I really feel this has benefitted from years spent in an open bottle. 8/10

Speyburn 25yo Solera (46%, OB, b. ca 2012, P0 12982 11:08 7206 25): nose: oddly plastic-y, the nose has oilskins and waxy fruit peels. Then, suddenly, watercolour appears. Maybe the waxy note was crayons, after all? Shortly thereafter, it switches to a perfume profile, with ethereal scents of jasmine, roses and tulip petals. The second sniff is very waxy indeed, with cooked vegetable on top -- odd, but it works. Mouth: velvety, the palate sees a distant brine-y touch, though nothing bothering. I remember dom666 found that hugely unpleasant the first time we had this, but it is much tamer, today. Next are grassy notes, with clover and, well, grass, green sticks, pea pods, a dose of heady, syrupy white wine (Sauternes or Fino, that is the question) and I find it citric (boiled lemon segments and unripe satsumas). The texture is rather oily, by the way. Finish: it turns nuttier, at this stage, and oily. Crushed Brazil nuts, hazelnut oil, olive oil, even, rapeseed oil -- is this oily, or what? The wine note makes a late appearance, at second sip, and it is Madeira, instead of Sherry. Nice. 8/10

Glenlossie 12yo b.2004 (55.5%, OB The Manager's Dram, Refill Cask, b#0998): nose: pine sap and custard powder, at first, it quickly reveals pine-tree bark and pencil shavings, blotting paper and dark berries. This has been in a low-fill, opened bottle for a couple of months, now, and it seems to have changed dramatically -- no drama yet, though! Fresh peaches appear, fresh figs, some kind of grape-and-hazelnut paste, lime peel, timid, but it is definitely there, geranium stems, gorse bushes... whoa! Later nosing brings a whiff of sweat, wrapped in a fruity frock -- quite original! Mouth: assertive, still (phew! No oxidation-related damage), the palate sees powdered coriander seeds on heated preserved lemons, Kaffir lime leaves, a pinch of ginger, perhaps, mace, candied ginger, turmeric, souped-up mixed peel and stewed rhubarb. Finish: oh! wow, this is better than I remembered it. It has a lick of wood (custard powder, butterscotch, white pepper), but also tropical fruit, now (banana, papaya, guava, kumquat and jackfruit). Wood spices show up, alongside citrus and sandalwood, far back, yet the whole is a well-balanced affair. A soaked-bung-cloth note might be too much for some, in the long run. I like it. 8/10

24/02/2018 The Whisky Show Old & Rare (Day 1 -- Part 2)

After that crazy day, we go for supper -- cavalier66, JS, CS, whom we just met, and the Swissky.
All are up for Bread Meats Bread. We have to wait a bit, but no-one is really hungry yet anyway.

Once we do get the food, the wait is forgotten

My Royale Black

JS's Bulgogi Cheese Steak

When the food is finished, CD passes me a miniature: Talisker 100° Proof (57%, Gordon & MacPhail). I tell him it is a nice gesture, but we have no glass. He sarcastically points out my mistake and hides the mini away. Snok.

The Neutrals all disband into the night, while I text MV and pat gva to join us. The latter will never find the final text, due to his phone being on silent.

cavalier66, MV, JS, CS and I gather in cavalier66's room for a nightcap. Or two.

Inchmurrin 20yo (40%, OB imported by T.A.C., b. late 1990s) (me): no full notes, for this. It is a fruity number, slightly bitter in the mouth, and I am pleased everyone enjoys it -- or pretends really well.

Glenlivet d.1939 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail imported by Sestante) (cavalier66): nose: a walk in a pine forest, fresh, delicate and elegant, with cedar wood and cigar boxes. Timid fruit emerges later. Mouth: woody, on the right side of it, with coconut yoghurt, custard and cedar-wood sawdust. Finish: long, with coconut shavings and sawdust again. It is very woody, but remains harmonious. 8/10

Glenesk 1982/1995 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice, IE/DBD): nose: pickled onions, Sauvignon blanc (cavalier66), gooseberries and cat's urine (cavalier66 again) -- "but in a good way," he adds. Cardboard. Mouth: plums in syrup and a gentle note of acidity. Finish: long and persistent, it has notes of pickled onions and syrupy plums. MV admits it is his first Glen Esk. 8/10

Millburn 16yo d.1966 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice imported by Meregalli) (cavalier66): nose: coal dust and nuts, cork. Mouth: austere and chocolate-y, with lichen goodness. Finish: nut liqueur and melted chocolate. The sherry has taken over, here, but it works. MV admits this is his first Millburn. 9/10

In May last year, MV was in London and left a sample at the SMWS for me, since we could not meet up. Discovering I still had not had it, he suggested bringing it here, so we could pair it with something else. We will do that, and add a third wheel to this carriage.

Glen Grant 40yo 1966/2006 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail) (MV): nose: wide, expressive and fruity, it has oranges, tangerines and satsumas. Mouth: sugary, with brown sugar, caster sugar. I cannot remember another whisky to be so sugary. Finish: soft and elegant, it has lots of sweet citrus (satsumas in particular). Wonderful! 9/10

Under the watchful eye of this woodpecker

Glen Grant 40yo 1972/2012 (51.6%, Maltbarn, Sherry Cask, 49b) (JS): nose: gingery tannins and dried orange peels. It opens up to reveal lemonade and lozenges. Mouth: sweet and spicy, with galangal ginger and caster sugar. Finish: fizzy, gingery lemonade. This is sweet, elegant and lovely. 9/10

At this point, I start paying more attention to the music (Radio 6 is playing).

The soundtrack: Adam Stafford - Strangers Care When You Burn

Glen Grant 34yo 1970/2004 (54.2%, Duncan Taylor Rare Auld, Sherry Hogshead, C#831, 129b, b#29) (MV): nose: a big wood and sherry influence, liquorice, cold coffee and molasses, dark chocolate, scorched earth, roasted coffee beans and dusty earth. Mouth: very chocolate-y, with a hint of liquorice -- a lot of it, in fact. This is massive, overpowered by the sherry. Finish: woody as feck, liquorice roots and drying coffee. These three couldnae be more different. This is a sherry monster and, although it achieves a better balance with water, it is simply less my thing. 7/10

The soundtrack: Stephen Crowe - Ey Up Me Duck

Cameronbridge 25yo 1979/2005 (59.9%, Duncan Taylor Rare Auld, C#3523, 194b, b#92) (me): excellent sweetness and wood-related fruitiness. Water makes it softer. I poured this as a palate-cleanser after that heavy Glen Grant, and it works a treat. MV likes it so much I give him what is left of the sample.

Speyside Region 41yo 1975/2016 (46.9%, Whisky-Doris, Fino Sherry Butt, C#22) (MV): nose: perfect balance of wood and fruity bubble gum. This reminds me of the 41yo Glenfarclas Forrest poured for me in Ostend. Mouth: lemon tart and coconut shavings. Finish: fruity bubble gum again, yoghurt-y and soft. Lovely. 9/10

The boys have cavalier66's Speyside Region 43yo d.1973 (51.6%, Mancarella Limited Edition, Sherry Cask) opposite the Whisky Doris. The former is drier and bitterer.

Irish 26yo 1988/2015 (45.6%, Whisky-Doris, Sherry Hogshead, C#14360) (cavalier66): he brought the goods, our cavalier. Funnily enough, I had never had a Whisky Doris bottling before, and this is the second in an hour. Nose: lots of fruit, of course, but also mint and lime -- this is the best mojito in town, tonight! Mouth: buttery mango, papaya, fruity yoghurt and a milky texture. Finish: long, wide, fruity and, well, simply beautiful. 10/10

The soundtrack: Jouska - Nature

Others try Secret Stills 02.02 (45%, Gordon & MacPhail Secret Stills, Sherry Hogsheads, 1204+1449+1452, 600b), for which I take no notes, but score 9/10.

It is 1:15. Time to hit the sack.

Continue reading here.

25/03/2017 Eurodance

Musical themes are great, yet they can be not pure enough. This time, we will focus on one specific genre that the youth of less than twenty cannot know, a genre that was as omnipresent in the early nineties as it is absent today: Eurodance.

BA calls off in the late morning and GL is tied up at work. That leaves Cavalier and JH with myself. JS makes a late entrance too. The low turnout allows for the inclusion of miniatures and samples, which is great.

Dr. Albyn - It's My Life

Glen Albyn 15yo (43%, Signatory Vintage for Master of Malt, 96/533, b.1996) (me): nose fruity and dusty, it opens up to reveal lemon sherbet, then marzipan and chalk, green grapes, green hazelnut and metal (brass, according to JH). It has the tiniest whiff of smoke and blood, if JH is to be believed (probably not). Mouth: soft and gently acidic (or is it bitter?) it has creamy nut paste and peppery honey. Finish: fruity again, with grapes, more nuts and a hint of flint. This is beautiful. Austere, not unwelcoming. 8/10

Cavalier has not had lunch (the fool). We attack on the nibblez: Serrano and Parma hams, two kinds of cheese (one hard cow one, one buffalo mozzarella), olives, artisan bread and dried sausages (herbes de Provence, tomato). All delicious.

Also, Cavalier thought it fit to get rid of his expired crisps.
Cheers, mate!

Glen Eskimos & Egypt - Fall From Grace vs. E-Rotic - Max Don't Have Sesk With Your Esk

Glenesk 12yo (40%, OB, b. ca late 1980s) (me): I had this ca 1993, when Eurodance was kicking booty; wonderful to get to try it again. Nose: cooked cabbage, salted cabbage stew (Cavalier, who is not keen on the nose), a chemistry experiment at school (JH). I get pickled pearl onions and not much else. Chlorine (JH), kimchee (Cavalier and JH). Mouth: oily, it has the texture of mayonnaise (yum!) and a pinch of mustard powder. Finish: a gentle alcohol kick, then earth and not much else. It leaves a texture in the mouth, rather than a taste. I want to rate it 7, yet if it were not a closed distillery, I would probably stick with 6/10

Glenesk 1984/2004 (43%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice, JD/DCG) (me): nose: earthy, with a few drops of lime juice, dried grapefruit peels, ginger powder and turmeric (Cavalier). Mouth: mellow, almost watery, with mustard powder and ginger, as well as saké (JH). Finish: faded leather, dried orange peels, a hint of rubber. This is lovely and unanimously declared better than the official bottling. 8/10

Cavalier -I was in a band in the '80s.
JH -Did you play the guitar?
tOMoH -What gave that away?
Cavalier -Are you a psychic-atrist?

Spring has descended onto the country. We proceed to the terrace.

Culture Beat - Mr. Bunnaha-Vain

Bunnahabhain 26yo (45.9%, Cadenhead Authentic Collection, Bourbon Hogshead, 246b) (me): I am on a roll. Nose: dried dates (JH) -- in fact, this is mega-fruity! Apples, pears, orchard fruit in general, even apricot. Tart, with waxy lemon skins. JH notes peanuts and pencil sharpener too. Mouth: honeysuckle and apple, though it also has an unexpected bitterness to it; unripe grapes, perhaps. Finish: lovely orchard fruits again, with juicy pear the dominant, pear compote and pineapple. 8/10

OTT - I Can't Give You Anything But My Love

Here is a link, because I cannot find a video.

Irish 24yo 1991/2016 (46.8%, Master of Malt Single Cask Series, Bourbon Barrel, C#10691, b#004) (Cavalier66): the (stretched) connection is that OTT is (was?) an Irish boyband, and Irish whiskey is always over the top (OTT). Good effort from Mr. Cavalier. Nose: tropical-fruit explosion. Buttery mango, plain and simple. Fresh figs soon join the party (in late August, says Cavalier), as well as maracuja. Later on, it is dried leaves, though the fruit comes back like a fanfare. Mouth: buttery mango again, perhaps augmented with a pinch of ground cloves. The texture is milky, or rather, it is that of melted butter. Papaya is there and pencil-sharpener blade. Finish: fruity as hell, it has chocolate milk and culminates with a roundhouse kick of passion fruit in the teeth. An amazing fruit bomb, very intense. 10/10

Inter-Mission - Piece Of My Hart

Linlithgow 25yo 1982/2007 (51.4%, Murray McDavid Mission Gold Series, Bourbon Casks, Cognac Finish, 1800b, b#0553) (me): nose: big, full of dust and dunnage warehouse scents, ground fruit stones, cocoa powder (JH), cinnamon (JH). This still has a mildly hot nose, with a touch of mustard. Mouth: warm and gently drying. The Cognac influence is obvious, here, with characteristics of grape eau-de-vie. Finish: marvellously mellow, it has subtle chocolate. Cavalier reckons it is, "like drinking summer." 9/10

vs.

St.Magdalene 23yo 1982/2006 (56%, Hart Brothers Finest Collection imported by Marsalle Company) (JS): nose: this is dustier and rougher, whilst in keeping with the high quality. Musty, with wooden staves and a bit of plastic, before it turns grassy, herbaceous (aromatics). It even gives out plum eau-de-vie and beeswax. This is nice. Mouth: a pronounced fruitiness, mostly peach, and horsepower. Finish: the strength numbs the taste buds, but the fruit is wonderful, accompanied by more wooden staves and musty warehouse scents. Water lets vinegar emerge on the nose. Wonderful to try those back to back! 9/10

Inter-Mission (Gold Series) - Piece Of My Hart (Brothers)
Get it?

I know the lads are busy people. They have cleared their agenda and are up for the next challenge, though. We already used that pun a while ago, but it was a different crowd and the combinations are endless anyway.

Captain Hollywood Project - Mor And More And More

76.117 25yo d.1988 A grand old lady in the piano shop (48.4%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 248b) (me): for those who are not au fait with Society codes, this is a Mortlach. Leftover from a tasting. Nose: this is flowery, with waxy fruit (apples?) until milk chocolate shows up. Mouth: mellow, with chocolate milk and aromatics. Finish: soft, fruity, with lots of milk. Lovely and so far away from the meaty, official house style. 8/10

vs.

Dalmore 25yo 1990/2016 (56.3%, Cadenhead Single Cask, Sherry Butt, 474b) (me): nose: tobacco leaves, embers, drying wood stain, dust and rancio (quite pronounced). Mouth: rancio to the max. It has notes of old sherry and old rum. Peppery and intense. It feels like chewing on an old cigar. Finish: noble furniture, wax (Pledge), dark fruit with a drying touch. 8/10 (thanks SW for the sample)

vs.

Mannochmore 16yo 1977/1994 (61%, Cadenhead) (me): nose: pepper (JH), cedar wood. This is very strong. Hot galangal, pickled gherkins, pencil shavings. Mouth: mellow at first, it grows to frightening intensity. Hot. It does retain honey and resin nonetheless, vanilla sprinkled on chilli. Finish: surprisingly short. The heat remains, not much else else. Perhaps fleeting wood and honey. 8/10

JH: "It is insanely strong."
Cavalier: "It whacks you!"
tOMoH: "It is not a Clynelish. It does not wax you."

Springbank for Hitler

A reference to Springtime for Hitler: A Gay Romp with Adolf and Eva at Berchtesgaden in Mel Brooks' comedy: The Producers.

Not Eurodance, yet sufficiently funny (and far-fetched) to warrant inclusion.

Springbank 12yo 2000/2012 (52.7%, OB Wood Expressions, 6y Refill Bourbon Casks + 6y Fresh Calvados Casks, 9420b) (JH): nose: "it is a dirty Springbank," says Cavalier. Farmy, yet also full of engine oil. A car mechanic's. This is austere and complex, with metallic tools, old furniture, almost falling apart (that will be sawdust and wormwood). JH tells us about an "abstract smokiness," which Cavalier translates as "conceptual smoke." "Dreamy smoke" and "ethereal mist" soon follow. Silly geese. Mouth: this is actually quite balanced, though it grows in intensity. Hot pepper, Szechuan pepper, walnut stain and engine oil. Finish: peaty and farm-y, it has soot, coal dust, barley, farmyards, cold ashes (JH) and maybe fruit from the Calvados. The distillate pretty much destroys the Calvados maturation, though. 8/10

Haddaway - What Is Love? (Baby don't hurt me, don't hurt me, Bowmore)

Bowmore 12yo 2001/2013 (58.5%, Blackadder Raw Cask, Oak Hogshead, C#20063, 312b, b#21) (Cavalier66): I am delighted by the puns on display, today. This one might just take the bisquit. Nose: huge peat, with also brine and much horsepower. Milk appears, almost turned sour, growing fruit (tangerine) and, eventually, tropical fruit (mango), as well as fishing nets. The fruit is quite something, in fact. Mouth: hot, smoky, with lots of apricot compote on a coal stove. Finish: very powerful, with a wonderful smoky/fruity profile (pineapple, pink grapefruit, lychee) and crushed mint. This might be worth 8, but tonight, it feels like a 9/10

Off-tasting, Cavalier offers this, which I cannot refuse.

Caol Ila 27yo 1983/2011 (46%, The Whisky Talker Mo Òr Collection, Bourbon Hogshead, R#48, C#4824, 400b, b#389) (Cavalier66): nose: the refined peat that is so typical of those early-1980s Caol Ilas, complemented by melon cubes, dust, satsumas, barbecued grapefruits. Wow. Mad fruitiness, interlaced with smoke. It also displays dry mud on an old shovel, oscillating between fruity and farm-y notes. Mouth: it feels much warmer than 46%. Farmyard is in the background, with also coal dust (or is that caol dust?) Finish: this is ridiculous. Überfruity again (grapefruit, pineapple, melon, Chinese gooseberry), it has the same delicate smoke as the nose and palate. Perfect. 10/10

I pour my comrades Glen Mhor 21yo d.1976 (43%, The Whisky Shop Glenkeir Treasures The Gold Selection, 299b), which they seem to like enough.

During the course of the day, we hear:

2 Unlimited - Get Ready
The Unity Mixers - Dance Computer 1993
The Unity Mixers - Dance Computer Vol. 2 (Intermission - Piece Of My Heart plays right as I present the two St Magdalene, casually)
The Unity Mixers - Dance Computer Vol. 3

And some 1980s synth-pop mixes, as the attendance is exhausted by the bombastic Eurodance mixes. Pf.

Brilliant tasting, as usual. Nice way to send JH out of the country, since he is emigrating. Fare well, JH!

I wear this only as a wink to IR, who could not make it, today.
Sash! - Edradour

17/09/2016 Rare Malts Closed Distilleries at The English School, Zürich

After a day in town, during which JS and I stop lengthily in a store and are treated to six very nice drams, we end up where we left off last night.

Tonight is, of course, the reason tOMoH is here, in this neutral country of chocolate imposters. CD and PG are hosting this extravaganza, which JS, EG and I attend, alongside half a dozen locals, whom will henceforth be called the Swissky Mafia (© JS).

In pure RMS style, the Glenlochy's cork had to be replaced.
The other five are intact. We all reckon they are fake...

Now, Rare Malts are frequent guests at many of our tastings, as are closed distilleries. Even closed distilleries from the Rare Malts range are no strangers to this blog. This time, we are talking about six closed distilleries exclusively from the Rare Malts range, mostly off the beaten path. In other words: no Rosebank, Brora or Port Ellen. This should be very interesting.

Banff 21yo 1982/2004 (57.1%, OB Rare Malts Selection, b#0741): I had this with adc a couple of years ago and remember being very impressed. Nose: it seems very gentle and ethereal, though that is perhaps due to the huge glass. Baked apple, a hint of smoke, strawberry juice, even. The impression is warmer and warmer, eventually delivering a drop of nail polish. Mouth: the fruit is now bold -- mostly baked apple, roasted apple, even. It is now rather hot with a bit of ash and burning straw. Strawberry bubble gum too, now -- phwoar! Finish: warming, waxy and jammy. The apple becomes so sweet it is close to apple chutney. At this point, the smoke has become the delicatest and elegantest. A class act. I like Banff. 9/10

Convalmore 24yo 1978/2003 (59.4%, OB, Rare Malts Selection, b#4175): this is maybe the one I am most excited about: love Convalmore, never had this particular expression, not on my shelves. Nose: it has the delightful scent of a dunnage warehouse, bitter marmalade on slightly overdone toast. The heat is a little numbing -- it is an RMS after all. Apples in sizzling butter and, much later on (hours), smoky bubble gum. Mouth: this is a massive slap of old-school madness -- coal smoke, dark marmalade and numbing power. The marmalade survives the passing of time, as do the sheer power and a veil of smoke. Oxidation does not change it much, actually. Finish: long, powerful, big, with the smoke of a campfire and candied fruit. This is beautiful. 9/10

A brief interruption to explain this dunnage-warehouse note I use so often. A dunnage warehouse is a low-ceiling, clay-floored warehouse in which casks are laid to rest, stacked no more than three high, separated by wooden blocks. It is the more traditional storage way, as opposed to the more modern racking warehouse and its concrete floor, where casks are held in metallic structures that can reach much higher. The dunnage warehouse has an unmistakable smell that blends damp clay, old wood, moss and a titillating fruitiness attributable to the alcohol evaporating (the angels' share). Many distilleries do not allow visitors into their warehouses, and if they do, pictures are often forbidden (due to the rather obsolete risk of flash photography igniting alcohol vapours). Not to mention all the casks in there are in bond, subject to the taxman, who would not be impressed to see visitors pour themselves a dram. Given the chance, walking into one is an experience not to be missed, perhaps similar to entering a crypt.

Glenury Royal 23yo 1971/1995 (61.3%, OB Rare Malts Selection, Sherry Casks, b#0054): another exciting one; I am deeply in love with the 29yo RMS, a big fan of Glenury in general, and I have not yet had this one. With the Convalmore, it is also the only one we are having tonight that is not on my shelves. Nose: another old-school heavy hitter. Musty warehouses, old staves, mushrooms in a pan and cured ham. This feels like a part-Sherry maturation to me. Quick debate on that: PG states all RMS are exclusively Bourbon casked, which I am sure is not the case. Interestingly, everyone has the decency to not check on their smartphones. We simply carry on with the tasting. Mouth: peppery, gingery, laden with green chilli and lots of horsepower. Time makes it slightly more accessible, though it does remain gingery. Finish: mamma mia! This is big! Burning petrol, dark, oily and... on fire. Ginger and wood spices. JS does not care much for it, I love it. At first pass, it is my favourite. It ends up kneeling before the Banff, though, which I prefer in the long run. This Glenury is exhausting. Very challenging. 9/10

This gets tOMoH's
seal of approval

At this stage, TK, of the Swissky Mafia, pulls out some munchies and I am forced to ingest inferior chocolate -- for research purposes, you understand. I admit it goes really well with the Glenury, bitter and pistachio-ed. I concede the Swiss now make relatively decent chocolate... since they bought up all the famous Belgian producers! :-) Good laughs all round. This one must be from a former Belgian factory indeed: honestly speaking, it is brilliant.

This, not so much

The others are yonks ahead of me in the sequence. After mistaking the Hillside for the Banff in a blind tasting, EG claims, 'I like the Hillside. I was surprised by the nose.' to which his neighbour interjects, 'You were surprised it had the nose of the Banff?'

Hillside 25yo 1971/1997 (62%, OB Rare Malts Selection, b#0914): ecstatic to try this too; I reckon it is the first Hillside I have, despite having tried multiple expressions of Glenesk/Glen Esk, the other names for the same distillery. Nose: apple liqueur, decaying peach, peach stone in fruit juice, ground fruit stone, zabaglione (EG). After a couple of hours, all scents are completely blended into each other and it becomes impossible to tell them apart. Another elegant dram. Mouth: initially a lot "lighter" than the strength suggests, it quickly grows into a frightening beast of a dram. Spicy broth with infusing prunes, hot marmalade. Amazingly, there is also a note of cold cream. A few hours in, a vague mustiness emerges. Finish: beastly again, with soaking stone fruit and dry cork. Musk too -- it is foxy, all things considered. Water does not change the character much; it merely makes it less strong. Just. 8/10

Millburn 35yo 1969/2005 (51.2%, OB Rare Malts Selection, b#3169): the last and oldest RMS... until 2016's ridiculously limited batch (Talisker 40, Lagavulin 40, Caol Ila 40) released for a charity sale in China. Nose: it is a little funky at first, though that impression fades away quickly. Waxy red apple, slightly overly-baked tarte tatin. Mouth: a lot mellower than I expected (mind you, it is 11% lower than the previous), it has the elegance of old age, a nice, fruity balance, very gentle smoke and a creamy texture with a pinch of spices. Yum! Finish: this is beautiful and complex. It dances on the tongue in whorls of gentle smoke (a mere ghost, at this point) and yellow fruit (peach, apricot). Phew! 9/10

Glenlochy 26yo 1969/1995 (58.8%, OB Rare Malts Selection for South Africa, B297, b#0394): one of the hardest to get and most expensive of the RMS, this Glenlochy was bottled for the South African market. There were five Glenlochy expressions in the RMS, none of which was released on the old continent, it would seem. The few that found their way to Europe keep changing hands on auction sites for a lot of money. Nose: meaty! Is this a Mortlach? Rotting flesh, meat on the bone, left too long in the sun, game, roadkill. It quietens down a notch or two, though it never reaches the "usual" Glenlochy profile, which is more mineral and austere. In fact, it seems to become softer and more mellow. Mouth: the meat does not appear here. Instead, we have peach juice with a peppery kick. The pepper is slightly out of control. Finish: crushed peach stones, ever-so-slightly bitter. Vanilla and pistachio-tainted cream. This is complex and beautiful, though quite polarising -- JS does not like it. 8/10

In typical RMS style, all six were brutal, indomitable drams, difficult, fierce and wild, yet also very rewarding for those who give it the time and attention they deserve. They really put up a fight, those.
I personally thought the tasting was lacking the ceremony and guidance to set the pace and explain some of the history behind those bottlings. When I discuss it with the hosts, they answer that here are seasoned whisky geeks who need no fluff. At the same time, my neighbour had never had a Banff before and one in the audience is attending his first-ever whisky tasting. Without going into a full masterclass for novices, I reckon a little bit of introduction for each dram would have worked a treat.

'Morning piss, or evening piss?'

Bottles then appear out of bags and secret pockets and the whole thing takes another dimension. Most of them, I do not try. Pittyvaich 20yo 1980/2011 OB makes an entrance, much to CD's content. I tell him it is my favourite Pittyvaich. Upon hearing that, TK digs up a sample from his bag and pours it to me.

Pittyvaich 14yo (54.5%, James MacArthur Fine Malt Selection): nose: cracked eggshells, velvety cream, panettone (EG, sniffing out of my glass). Mouth: this is smooth as fook, velvety and pleasant, unlike the bottlings by GMP. Finish: sweet and soft, with rice tart and custard. Lovely, this! 8/10 (thanks TK)

Glen Mhor 15yo b.1997 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, IG/DJE): nose: phwoar, another old-schooler, full of dusty libraries and green tea (JS). Mouth: it suffers from the sequence, of course. This feels awfully watery, at this stage. Finish: marmalade, nigella seeds, black cumin. Watery, though. Hope to try this another time. It was obviously a mistake to taste it now, after the RMS monsters. At the same time, when will I have another chance to try this without forking out for a bottle of my own? 7/10

Distilled Somewhere in Speyside 41yo 1975/2016 (52.8%, Acla Da Fans Acla Selection, Fino Sherry Butt, C#19, 120b): brief notes, here. Nose: apples and lemon custard. Mouth: mellow, pleasant, with custard and coconut cream. Finish: custard, with a lot of pepper. Not bad for an active distillery. ;-) 8/10

TK pours me something else -- blind, once more. Nose: milk, lemon, grape seeds. The Swissky Mafia teases me to know what kind of milk -- it is yak milk. Mouth: again, this is milky and gentle, with a kick of lemon juice. Finish: a bit low on the ABV, yet it is well balanced. I very proudly manage to guess it is a Coleburn. I fear I might turn cocky for a minute. I has got to raprazent, yo. Coleburn 12yo (43%, James MacArthur Fine Malt Selection) 8/10 (thanks TK)

We hop onto the next-to-last tram back into town for a night's sleep.
What a tasting! Great drams with great friends, old and new. Yay to a flourishing network!

Stack to the plahn, Ahndy!