30/01/2020 February outturn at Cadenhead's

A small outturn, this time, but a very full house for it.
No samples, this time. A proper bottle of each whisky, and proper pours in proper glasses. Christmas is back again!
On the negative side, no more distillation or bottling dates on the back label, and the number of casks that composed the bottling has also vanish. Finally, we are told the number of bottles now only represents the number of bottles available in the UK. Why?

Fettercairn 12yo b.2019 (51.1%, Cadenhead Small Batch, Bourbon Casks, 324b)
Nose: limestone and citrus fruit (lemon juice, to be accurate), ivy leaves and -- wait for it -- unopened hyacinth.
Mouth: fruity, mellow, salty and a little acidic.
Finish: light and fruity, it has candied lime and pomelo.
Comment: a very good Fettercairn. 7/10

Thanks for the pic, SW

Glentauchers-Glenlivet 9yo b.2019 (55.1%, Cadenhead Small Batch, 1 x Sherry Cask & 3 x Bourbon Casks, 354b)
Nose: dark chocolate from the word 'go', precious wood, walnut liqueur, dark cherries.
Mouth: soft and gentle in a chocolate-coulis sort of way, but with a touch of chilli powder. "Swiss chocolate," says Cavalier66. Inferior chocolate, then.
Finish: long, chocolate-y and nicely rounded. 7/10

Glenrothes-Glenlivet 18yo b.2019 (51.1%, Cadenhead Small Batch, Bourbon Casks, 264b)
"It has been a while since we last had a Glenrothes," says everyone, hinting at there being one in virtually every 2019 outturn.
Nose: a buttery one, with porridge and boiled sweets (crystallised oranges), doughnut, and a touch of powdered sugar.
Mouth: soft, buttery, with lemon-and-sage butter.
Finish: pastry, buttery dough, soft pomelo flesh, white peach.
Comment: nice one. 7/10

Ord 11yo b.2019 (56.4%, Cadenhead Small Batch, Bourbon Casks, 342b)
Nose: sandpaper (I know!), old rags, oily tools and dry straw. There is some old-school funk in this one.
Mouth: quite dry, here too, with straw and oily rags, as well as cardboard.
Finish: dry, drying, with super-dry, crackling leather, dried grape skins.
Comment: OK, but not the most appealing. I find it a bit rough. Others love it. 6/10

Strathclyde 30yo b.2019 (54.5%, Cadenhead Small Batch, Sherry & Bourbon Casks, 360b)
This one spent a year in a Sherry cask, apparently.
Nose: pure grain nose, with blackcurrant turnovers, blueberry pancakes, coconut and cooked ham (what?)
Mouth: Kola cubes, blackcurrant, elderberry, blueberry -- ooh! dear.
Finish: a lash of black liquorice will prevent a higher score, even though it is mostly blackcurrant, blueberry and blackberry.
Comment: Amazing Strathclyde. Probably even better than the 28yo that came out in March 2018. 8/10

William Cadenhead 12yo (46%, Cadenhead, Sherry Casks)
A blend containing Invergordon, Girvan, Benrinnes and Miltonduff. Those were added to the previous vatting, since this is a solera.
Nose: leather and meat, dusty cardboard.
Mouth: chocolate, nuts -- roasted walnuts.
Finish: chocolate in the finish too, augmented with dark cherries.
Comment: very nice. £33. Perfect sipper. 7/10

SW pulls a few rabbits out of his hat. Bits and bobs from open bottles whose ABV have fallen.

Linkwood 17yo d.1978 (55.5%, Cadenhead, Sherry Cask)
Nose: earth and brine.
Mouth: brine, mildly acidic, pickled onions.
Finish: long, comforting, but also a bit bitter.
Comment: nice opportunity. 7/10

Convalmore 23yo d.1962 (46%, Cadenhead)
Nose: white wine, gravel, crushed hazelnuts.
Mouth: mellow, slightly ashy, with cheese rind and sweet green grapes.
Finish: big, rancio-ed, it has Virginia tobacco and roasted peaches.
Comment: I like this. 8/10

Dalmore 15yo d.1963 (45.7%, Cadenhead, probably Bourbon Cask)
Nose: bathroom soap, toothpaste and mint.
Mouth: more toothpaste, mint, or even peppermint.
Finish: the wood has taken over, almost splinter-y, with ginger, mint and galangal shavings.
Comment: not bad, but over the hill, in my opinion. 6/10

Despite the low outturn, we finish at the same time as usual. Lots of banter and other socialising.

This one, we do not try

15/01/2020 SMWS x Phil Storry

As part of a series of events which see members "take over" the SMWS and host a tasting (remember BA did it not too long ago), PS has assembled a series of bottles for us to try. Some are from the manager's shelf, and we will be told what they are. Others are from PS's collection and we will try them blind. A semi-blind tasting, then.

tOMoH: "Who's speaking?"

The loose theme for the night is odd casks. It is not clear from the get-go, but PS will remind us as we go.
PS peruses the room and observes the many familiar faces. Considering he lives here, he gets no credit.

PS: "Anyone here I don't know?"

PS: "Now, do you know me?"

Dram #1
Nose: vanilla and baked apricot, soon joined by subtle pine needles. The apricot grows in intensity and turns quite waxy -- a Clynelish, perhaps? Pine cones arrive, later on, though it does not resemble a Benrinnes. Mouth: warm and velvety, it has gently-bitter apricot nectar. The second sip brings more acidity forward, with grapefruit and lemon. Finish: some acidity in the finish too, even if it is never unpleasant. Lots of chocolate as well, a drop of lemon juice, and growing grapefruit. Much later on (at the end of the tasting), it is full-on flowers -- not acidic, or anything: just beautiful. PS explains this was his joining bottle (the bottle he received as part of his membership pack). Well, the bottling, to be accurate. The bottle, we drank many years ago. With the power of teh Inturnettz, I call bullshit, however: that was 25.31. 25.47 19yo 1989/2008 Wakens the taste buds (56.7%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 256b) 8/10

tOMoH: "What do you think about this, SL?"
SL: "I like it better, now I know it is a Rosebank."

Dram #2
G6.9 38yo d.1980 Listening to the frog chorus (46.5%, SMWS Society Cask, 2nd Fill Toasted Hogshead, 147b): nose: a grain, without a doubt, this one has buttery flapjacks and fruity turnovers all over it. Peach, a pinch of dried herbs (oregano) tiny whiffs of metal, hawthorn, laurel... and very soft rubber, not unlike a stress ball. Mouth: satin-like, with peach skins and woolly jumpers (I know). The second sip is more bitter, with oregano, sprinkled on top of apple turnovers. Finish: mellow and grain-like, warming, with peach nectar and drops of melted chocolate. Well, with this undeniable grain-like character and those bitter herbs, it had to be a Port Dundas. 8/10

Dram #3
Nose: another grain, though this one is much more "austere" -- herbaceous, almost metallic. Behind that "austerity," though, is a cast-iron cauldron full of jam, simmering away. Later yet, industrial glue comes up, hinting at some of the SMWS rums that I have tried. We confirm it is a grain whisky. Mouth: sticky, rubbery, glue-y, it develops some rubbery pastry dough, but it is not really as I remembered it (by now, the identity has been revealed). Finish: at last, some proper dough-y turnovers. Blackcurrant shows up late and will not leave, of course -- and it is lovely. Nice, yet also interesting to try it blind, as I remembered it being better. Perhaps a sequence mistake? G5.2 17yo 1993/2011 Strumming the strings of the soul (65.3%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Virgin Toasted Oak Hogshead, 248b) 8/10

PS [about BA]: "Very early in our friendship... if we can call it a friendship..."

N from Brighton: "I'm really enjoying the ABV."

It is 65.3, N from Brighton. Not sure what that says about you. ;-)

Dram #4
84.21 14yo d.2001 Satisfyingly sweet, silky and smooth (55.6%, SMWS Society Single Cask, 2nd Fill Sauternes Hogshead, 186b): Nose: back to malt, and this one has lots of candied citrus -- waxy satsuma peels and candied tangerine segments. It only plays one note, this one (the waxy citrus, innit), but does so very well. Much later, scented talcum powder and baby lotion appear, with a and gentle citrus twist. A bit of hay and more and more custard join in, as time passes. Mouth: with peach flesh and stones, it has lots of acidity and a generous dose of wood. The heat (slightly green) is impressive, with green chilli and ginger. Finish: the acidity is well pronounced in the finish too, with lemon juice and grapefruit juice. Some wood spices here too, ginger, mostly. Interesting. After being told what it is, I catch myself finding it similar to my bottle of Glendullan 16yo Centenary. JS's favourite, tonight. 7/10

PS: "2nd Fill Sauternes cask!? Who would use a Sauternes cask twice?"
tOMoH: "Still watertight? Let's use it again!"

Dram #5
Nose: a rich sherry maturation, with prunes, pressed dates, pressed figs, though very little leather or shoe polish -- it is a fruity number. Bramble, blackberry, blackcurrant and, later, pot-pourri. Mouth: lots of prune juice, diluted pressed dates, frangipane -- yes! A great sherry maturation (what? It is virgin oak?), but the distillery character is nowhere to be seen. Finish: long, warming and prune-y, mellow and full of soaked sultanas, re-hydrated dried figs and dates, perhaps soaked cork too. 26.118 16yo d.2000 Happiness is a warm hug! (52.4%, SMWS Society Cask, Virgin Oak Hogshead, 180b) 8/10

Good drop, but a perfect illustration of why virgin oak is not more widely used: it completely overrides the distillate.

PS: "I toyed with Madeira. I toyed with other things, but..."
tOMoH: "Please, don't tell us!"

JS: "How many virgin oaks did you have in mind, PS?"
tOMoH: "Seventy-two! Seventy-two virgin oaks!"

Dram #6
Nose: urgh! Meaty, full of gravy, sauce grand'veneur and smoked lingonberry compote, this is game-y and -- I suppose -- seasonal. Mouth: meaty again, it has wine sauce, apricot liqueur (WhiskyLovingPianist), rancid meat gone off (JS), rancio, elderberry compote and elderberry cordial. I find it drying. Finish: long, wine-y, with some heady spirit (liqueur praline). Mostly wine-y chocolate, in fact. I can see the merit of this, but it is not my thing much. Still, I am feeling generous, tonight. 10.60 8yo 1997/2006 Spicy Sevilla oranges (58.4%, SMWS Society Cask, 892b) 7/10

Probably from a Sherry gorda, judging by the huge outturn. Funnily enough, those are no longer allowed by the SWA, says PS, as they contain more than 750l.

PS: "I brought this, because it's not something you would associate with me."
PP: "You mean: good taste?"

PS [paraphrasing]: "The Society insisted there couldn't be a seventh dram. I asked about an eighth or a ninth, but that's not happening. But I don't like being told what the fuck I can and cannot do, so have some samples!"

WhiskyLovingPianist [after I winked at him]: "There's no point talking. I'll see you online."

PS: "Sorry for not coming to your tasting, tomorrow."
JS: "What happened to the PS we knew?"

The portions were huge and no nibbles. Drinking those high-strengths whiskies on an empty stomach make me tipsy, as expected. Pity. Otherwise, great night out.

01/01/2020 NYD drams at Dornoch Castle Hotel

Today is a strange day. Everyone is tired, hungover and moody to some degree. Even the pros are not at their peak. JS and I have decided to throw ourselves into the sea for the yearly looney dook, which takes place at noon. That means there is no time to do anything before, and little to do anything afterwards, in a place where the sun goes down at 15:30. A day at the bar, more or less. But first, breakfast.

adc's full Scottish

JS's not-at-all-full Scottish without bacon, sausage, or potato scone

My French toasts with banana slices and maple syrup

Once back from the (blooming-cold) sea, it is time for lunch.

Cheese toastie for adc

Lentil soup for JS and me

Burnside 15yo (46%, Eaglesome, b.1980s): this is allegedly a Springbank, and it was bottled in the 1980s. Happy days. Nose: strawberry bubble gum and mild pepper, satsuma foliage, discreet bergamot, faint lime leaves -- all is very subtle and integrated, a bit tired, even, but pleasant nonetheless. Celery (JS) and a pinch of dust. Mouth: yes, it is tired. Peach-and-lemon juice, a pinch of chilli, growing in intensity (not quite so tired, eh?), grapefruit segments, drying away. It is not very assertive, all in all. Finish: it reveals itself in the finish, with the acidity of grapefruit and lemon/lime, some sawdust, ginger peel, cigar boxes (cedar wood) and dried lemongrass stalks. Well, this is excellent, innit. 8/10

Daftmill 2008/2019 (55.5%, OB for The Whisky Bars of Scotland, C#068/2008, 160b, b#73): nose: butterscotch and shortbread, porridge, granola bars and squashed banana. Something is there that resembles dessert rice. Mouth: quite peppery, punchy, it retains the butterscotch-y, shortbread-y touch, with porridge and custard too. Finish: long, rather fierce, with hot paprika and crushed bay leaves, spicy butterscotch, spicy custard and sweetened porridge, pumped up with vanilla sugar. This is pretty simple, but efficient. I simply cannot understand the secondary-market prices, however. 7/10

Back at the bar, CT asks us what we are drinking. As we request the next drams, he rolls up his sleeves and starts pouring ("Are those the whisky glasses?" he jokes). Not quite sure it is what he had in mind, but there is no-one else behind the bar at the time. "I demand to speak to the owner," I state. The manager enters to find his boss serving us whisky. I jokingly recommend hiring him as bar staff. Everyone pretends my joke is funny, which is kind.

Longrow 10yo 1987/1997 (43%, Signatory Vintage, C#149--151, 9990b, b#340, 97/1020): an indie Longrow from the 1980s. Where can one try that, really? Nose: dead leaves, tractor-engine fumes, dried mud, caked onto tractor tyres, rusty machinery and old-school industrialisation. Perhaps a pinch of coffee grounds to complete the nose. Mouth: soft, watery, it has lots of fruit, here -- peach, apricot and juicy plum. Thirty seconds in, it stops feeling watery and starts unravelling the spices. The exhaust fumes and farm-y character come running back, and that spells great news. Finish: that funky mix of fruit and farm-y diesel, redoubtable! Peaches, oil, old engines, rusty tools, old earth, dried apricots, oily nuts. Very good. 8/10

Benriach 44yo 1966/2010 (56.1%, Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection, First Fill American Hogshead, C#605, 129b, b#11, AJ/AEBG): nose: old-school sherry elegance, with black shoe polish on soft leather, and a good dose of juicy fruit (mango, jackfruit, very-ripe pineapple, persimmon, avocado). Flowering currants (adc), honeysuckle and a waft of coffee round off the nose beautifully. Mouth: proper fruity nonsense, with persimmon, mango, dragon fruit, mangosteen... It has the perfect horsepower as well: powerful, never invading. Green peppercorns and ginger shavings are kept under control. Finish: a little explosion of tropical fruit on a bed of chilli. Tropical-fruit squash is what remains on the top of the palate for the longest time. Exceptional dram, this, only overshadowed by the mighty 50yo for LMdW. Because of that, I feel compelled to score it lower. That might seem harsh, but life is harsh. 9/10

The prices, it dawns on us, seem higher than the previous years. The pours, on the other hand, are very generous.

Glenury Royal 30yo 1973/2004 (49.7%, Signatory Vintage, Sherry Cask, C#6860, 168b, b#106, 4/0359): nose: ooooft! Dusty hessian sacks, full of lychee and mangosteen. Fresh ginger, pressed sultanas, bergamot leaves, a pinch of ground white pepper. Soon, carrot soup enters too, never overpowering the gorgeous, juicy fruit. Crayon shavings, warm marmalade, a pinch of sage, apricot compote and even pine forest (tree bark and pine cones). Much later on, it is custard and soaked shortbread. Mouth: soft, peachy, velvety, it has more of the marmalade goodness, souped up with hot metal (and methedrine?). Citrus-y shenanigans take centre stage, with boiled zest and juicy segments, as well as the edge of the knife that has cut them (that will be the metal, then). Finish: long, warm and warming, with ladlefuls of hot marmalade, nigella seeds, black cumin, preserved lemons, crystallised tangerines and, well, orange marmalade, made with the juiciest Seville. 9/10

M has started his shift and taken over from CT.

M: "I've got a feeling someone's watching me."
tOMoH: "Every time that happens, I've got Michael Jackson playing in my head."
M: "I don't even want to know what that means..."
tOMoH: "I'm talking about Michael Jackson, the whisky writer, obviously."
M: "Next thing, you'll tell me there's really a whisky writer called that..."

Longmorn 38yo 1971/2009 (47.4%, Gordon & MacPhail Reserve exclusively for Limburg, C#4812, 190b, JI/AJGH): nose: ethereal, it has subtle jasmine, peach skins, lacquered wood, and layers and layers of understated fruit (apple peels, poached pears, avocado flesh, poached peaches and plums). Baby powder, moisturiser -- this smells creamy and custard-y. Mouth: it feels a little weak at first, but it is teeming with ripe fruits. Silky, soft, it has peach, überripe apricot, juicy pear, squashed dragon fruit, mango pulp and non-chillied guacamole (smashed avocado, coriander and lime juice, then). Finish: soft, peachy, it does have some wood (freshly-installed bookcases), but nothing to eclipse the deluge of ripe, juicy fruits (see above). 9/10

Caol Ila 20yo d.1983 (46%, Direct Wines First Cask, C#46, b#290): nose: a typical Caol Ila from the 1980s, with fishing nets, a trawler's engine, a pinch of soot, a wood stove, diesel, and fruit. Barbecued pear, barbecued apricot. It is on the smoky side, though, with coal-fire smoke, even charcoal. Mouth: soft and mellow, it has more fruit than the nose: white plum and canary melon, peppered with soot and kept on a wood stove. The fruit is really fresh, juicy and lively. Finish: sweet, fruity here as well, and sooty/smoky, with diesel fumes, buckets of soot, greasy engines, soot-covered peaches, super-dry fishing nets and dusty mechanics. Amazing. 9/10

Caol Ila 21yo 1976/1997 (59.9%, Adelphi, C#8093, L726088): nose: smoked peach stones in a fruit-juice liqueur, if that makes sense. Lacquered-wood cabinets, liqueur cabinets. It develops to reveal more fruit (nutty peach, apricot, plump plum, juicy quince) and polished wood panels. Mouth: it feels fruitier than the First Cask on the palate as well, with peach juice, smoky marmalade and smoked preserved lemons. The high ABV makes itself well known: powerful, fearsome. From the second sip on, it feels perfectly integrated and the mouth becomes fruitier and fruitier. Finish: big, but balanced, it has similar fruity notes and an ashy, salty undercurrent. The finish is drying, arid (the ash, I would wager), austere, but with some fruit, still (roasted peach). Here too, the fruit grows more prominent with each sip, white peach and all, but the ash and fishing nets remain, subtle, yet fantastically present. 9/10

adc: "Ah! Those haggis balls. They were a bit too hard. I don't mind putting a whole ball in my mouth, if it is small."
[JS and I lol.]
adc: "You dirty minds. You're as bad as the French."

Dinner.

No buffet, this year, (un)fortunately

adc and JS have the Smoked Sea Trout

Marbled Game Terrine for me

12 Hour Braised Pork Belly (adc)

Honey & Thyme Roasted Salmon (JS)

Venison Loin (me)

Coffee & Doughnuts (JS)

Vanilla Mouse for adc and me (yes, there is a typo and yes, I do make a scene about it)

There is no band playing folk music, this year, sadly. JS goes for a little nap. adc and I go for one last dram. She has Glen Grant 38yo Gordon & MacPhail again, which I do not take notes for.

88.6 25yo 1975/2001 (63.4%, SMWS Society Cask): nose: melted caramel butter, melted fudge, doughnut batter, distant shoe polish. It feels like a sherry maturation with a medicinal tack -- bandages, gauze, leather belts and leather shoes. It grows muddier and dirtier as time passes, though that is balanced by bergamot foliage. With water, orange juice comes out more, and soaked cork (adc). Mouth: massively hot, frighteningly so, with ground cloves, crushed bay leaves, mace, black pepper, sumac, lots of ginger, galangal, green chilli, curry leaves and spiced-up oranges. The heat! With water, it stays warm, but turns fruitier too, with bitter orange pith and orange peel. Finish: it surprisingly hits a great balance, with dark chocolate, bay leaves, sage, verbena, salted caramel and underripe oranges, almost blue with mould. Funny how the finish is more tolerable than the palate. Water makes it warmer, amusingly enough, and allows acidic, bitter orange to come through. Very interesting drop, but the palate is not a little challenging. One of the fiercest whiskies that I recall, in the mouth. Despite that, it is so interesting I will not go below 8/10

They have an SMWS Glen Mhor and an SMWS Glen Albyn, but this feels the right time to stop.

Also this 30yo Lochnagar, which is very tempting

That is all, folks. Tomorrow, PT will let adc and JS try a Yoichi 10yo 2008/2018 (59%, OB, Virgin Oak Cask, C#409288) as we say good bye. I am driving and therefore sober.

31/12/2019 NYE drams at Dornoch Castle Hotel

After a great road trip and before we enter the madness that is a New Year's Eve in the north of Scotland, a few drams. The last few drams of 2019, in fact.

This very cute gold crest watches over our selection

Glen Moray 28yo 1974/2002 (53.4%, OB Distillery Manager's Choice, ex-Oloroso Sherry Butt, 676b, b#617): I had completely overlooked that unassuming bottle, hidden behind others, too busy scouting a bottle for the king of kings. JS is clearly more observant and less pretentious than I am. Nose: old, fruity shoe polish, with toffee, caramel and orange sponge cake (PiM's). The fruit keeps growing too, with pink grapefruit and satsuma kept in a leather pouch. There is even a whisper of soft tobacco, in the back. In the long run, the nose turns proper tropical, with all sorts of fruits. Mouth: marvellously fruity on the palate too, on top of the soft leather that we expected to be the continuation of the nose. Pink-grapefruit segments and satsumas, very fresh and juicy. Finish: it is in line with the nose and palate, with pink grapefruit, blood orange, satsuma, kumquat -- rhaaa! This is comparable to 35.59, perhaps better. What a belter! 10/10

Glen Grant 8yo (70° Proof, Robert Watson imported by Terni Import, b.1971--1976): nose: caramelised biscuits, hints of coffee grounds, overripe, almost-rotten blood orange and cork (adc). Mouth: fresh, it is not powerful, or course. It does have diluted orange juice and sweet pulp. Finish: similarly fresh in the aftertaste, with orange boiled sweets (Sugus), orange pulp and very little coffee grounds, now. It is softly bitter, though that is almost not worth mentioning, so subtle it is. An unchallenging, but excellent drop. 8/10

Glen Moray 38yo 1971/2010 (48.7%, Duncan Taylor, C#7032, 256b, b#155): nose: fruity, it has cherries and blood oranges, yet also a leafier touch, with flowers (jasmine, roses, carnations) and lychee peels. Mouth: what a fantastic balance of blood-orange juice, lychee peels and juicy cherries here too. It is a little lively, or at least, more so than the age might suggest, with a serving of ginger shavings. Finish: take the same and start again (blood orange and cherry), but here, it also has wood, varnished, precious wood. Long, coating and soooo good. 9/10

Emerald Isle 26yo d.1989 (59.2%, Speciality Drinks, C#16244): nose: the expected avalanche of tropical fruit happens, starting with mango, then papaya, jackfruit and something a bit earthier too. Lychee peels, lime leaves, satsuma leaves and a hint of milk chocolate. Mouth: pungent, but balanced, with chocolate-y mango, fresh papaya and buttery jackfruit. Finish: a roundhouse kick of tropical fruit. To be honest, I cannot be bothered listing them. It is buttery, fruity and juicy. Joy. 9/10

Those Irish beauties are a bit predictable and, dare I say, monotonous. There have been so many, over the past five-to-eight years, that one is almost bound to grow a bit immune to them. It is important not to forget that, between 2002 and 2007, Duncan Taylor alone released around forty Bowmore distilled in 1966, 1968 and 1969. There was a sort of good-whisky fatigue then too, I am sure, and the sense that every bottling tasted like the last one and was therefore less and less interesting. Fast-forward to 2020 and those are all highly sought after and highly regarded, but completely out of reach.
I think one should ignore these Irish whiskies at their own peril. One day, they will dry up and become out of reach. I prefer trying them whilst I can. That will not last forever.

CT: "We are  really happy with the way The Vault
was done up. It is a bit quaint, seeing as it is a vault.
It is for little people."
tOMoH: "N, would you like to call HR?"

Ben Nevis 23yo 1996/2019 (52.2%, Thompson Bros. selected by Dave Broom for Amber Light and exclusive to Royal Mile Whiskies, Refill Sherry Butt, 497b): funnily enough, this was rated 92/100 by whiskyfun.com yesterday. Soon at an auction near you... Nose: typical Ben Nevis, with shoe polish, cured red meat on the bone, earth and lots of dirt, as well as some fruit. Overripe dark grapes, overripe plums, soaked plums, sangria, bloody steak (which is not a fruit, let us be clear: you are not a vegetarian if you eat bloody steak; you might be, if you eat fucking potatoes, though). Mouth: more traditionally fruity, on the palate, with red berries, cherries, soaked apples, oranges macerated in wine, lingonberry compote with a game dish (pheasant? We saw lots, during our excursion, earlier). Finish: wine-y, full of sangria and macerated fruits, blended with dark chocolate. Yes: dark chocolate and dried raspberry chips thrown in. We are in complete disbelief, with regards to the 92/100. Which is not to say it is a bad whisky. For me, it is 7/10

Glen Grant 38yo (70° Proof, Gordon & MacPhail, SC295, b.1970s): pre-war Glen Grant, then. Nose: woah! This is an old Cognac, grape-y as fook, but also noble and elegant, with freshly-polished, leather-bound books, truffle oil, maraschino cherries and some old bottle effect. Mouth: the same harmonious balance hinted at by the nose. Old Cognac from before the Napoleonic wars and elegant leather, as well as excellent, truffle-oil-speckled maraschino cherries. Finish: long and unbelievably balanced, with similar notes of noble leather and fruit. Amazeboulanger. 10/10

Time to dress up and upload some food. Lots of food.

Braised pork jowl

Gin-cured salmon

Three-way beef

Chocolate parfait

Lemon sorbet, meringue, cheese cake and macaroon

Christmas pudding and what seemed like a Comté

The food is even better than the previous years and I feel less bloated, despite eating three of those lemon cheese cakes (I cannot stand waste). Well done!

We have time for one more round before the street party starts. Let us make it count.

adc has a gin-based cocktail from the courtyard.
They have braseros there, one of which smells
of burnt rubber

Glen Scotia 30yo 1975/2006 (47.5%, The Whisky Fair, Rum Barrel, 96b): nose: diesel and engine oil, hard plastic, plastic buckets, boiled swede and oilskins. Later on, rye bread appears. What the deuce? Cold barbecue grille and burnt pencil shavings -- this is all over the place. Mouth: oily, silky, apricot-juice-like in texture, but metallic and powerful in taste, bringing clean machinery to the fore. Hairballs and steel, hemp sealant for pipes (that thing that looks like hair) and salt. Finish: a bizarre-but-supremely-interesting mix of freshly-cut fruit, knives of all sorts, diesel and plastic. The finish is the clear strong point, here. What a funny old Glen Scotia. Believe! 8/10

Ardmore 21yo 1998/2019 (51.5%, Thompson Bros., Refill Hogshead, 256b): nose: strawberry and cheese (Reblochon, Comté) -- again: WTF? Cut peach in rose water, rose petals, plasticine, marshmallows, soft and fluffy. Mouth: soft, gentle, with canary melon, especially the skins, unripe quince and growing white pepper. The second sip sees marshmallow come back, accompanied by strawberry pralines. Finish: amazingly fruit, with distant strawberry and lots of citrus (grapefruit and dried lemon peel). No peat whatsoever (an Ardlair, perhaps?) Liqueur praline, on the other hand, is very present. Mon Chéri and Edle Tropfen. Excellent. A good dram to finish the year with. 8/10

Boom.

Now to start the year... Oh! One of our table mates insists on offering me a dram. That is very kind, of course, yet it limits what I start the year with -- it would be rude to order something that costs £100, would it not?

66.143 20yo d.1998 Steam trains and puffers (55.8%, SMWS Society Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 237b): here is another similarly-aged Ardmore we want to try. How topical, then, to order it now, so we can side-by-side it with the above? Nose: dirtier than the Thompson Bros.', it has burning alcohol, burnt caramel, burnt wood and turpentine. Mouth: thin and strong in alcohol, it has surgical spirit, medicinal alcohol and squashed apple pips. It is very drying and rather unpleasant. Finish: long, thin, full of ethanol and surgical spirit. Not a patch on the other. It feels like a new make, surprisingly, with burnt wood and drying ash. Not my thing at all. 5/10 (Thanks for the dram, DMcL, I chose poorly)

Annoyingly, DMcL and JMcL leave us, making it impossible to return the favour tonight. Ah well, tomorrow.

Now, to start as we mean to go on, the real first dram of 2020.

Caol Ila 17yo d.1969 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseur's Choice): nose: meaty and charcoal-y, it has burnt rubber (adc), burning leaves, forest floor and wild mushrooms, scorched earth, charred pineapple, bicycle inner tubes, roasted lychee. It does display a microscopic touch of sulphur, but it is not loud at all. Mentholated talcum powder on bicycle inner tubes. Mouth: soft and silky, surprisingly so, it has cold custard, cold, flat cola, pineapple juice from a char-grilled fruit, tinned-lychee syrup, old, tarry, mouldy rope. The fruit shines stronger than the undeniably-present diesel on the palate. Old fishing nets, oil spills reaching the sandy beach. Finish: oh! my god. The power of this thing!! It is so assertive, at 40%! Coal, straight out of the industrial revolution, a camp fire in a bothy, a leaking diesel engine, burnt wood, steam-train tenders and boilers, full of coal, coke near the factory's furnace, oil spill again... we have a winner! The finish goes on forever too, evolving to unveil gunpowder, in the long run. It would be a top score, save for the meaty note, which I find out of place. 9/10

They do not kick us out to close the bar early, this year, but it feels enough. Happy new year! Let 2020 be better than 2019!

Zzz.