29/07/2021 Fettercairn

Fettercairn 26yo 1989/2015 (54.5%, A.D. Rattray Cask Collection, Bourbon Hogshead, C#001, 218b): nose: lovely woody tones, starting with hazelnut paste and encaustic, old furniture wax, brown shoe polish and rusty jar lids (which is not wood, of course). It has the mousy, grain-y, cereal-y, Horlick-y profile bordering on vinegar that I seem to find in every Fettercairn. The dominant hazelnut paste retreats a little, after a while, which allows iron tonic to come through, mixed with chicory-instant coffee (Ricoré, to name the brand). There is also some toffee, or fudge, rather, and maybe cooked wild rice, caramelised at the bottom of the pot. The second nose unveils baking soda and millionaire shortbread, augmented with a sprinkle of green-grape juice. Water strangely adds a riparian quality to it -- a picnic table and a bottle of white wine, in the shade of a willow tree, by the riverside. It certainly mellows out. Mouth: it is not an easy attack, this! The palate is vinegary indeed, even if it is partly balanced by the aforementioned toffee. The tongue counts plenty of copper coins, and the iron tonic is here too. Perhaps, there are some unripe hazelnuts and old rags, crusty with dried wax. The cereals, on the other hand, seem to have vanished. The texture is thin, akin to skimmed milk, and soon turns a bit stripping, so acidic it is. Grape-pip oil minus the oily feel. Water takes all out of this, bar the unripe hazelnut. A few seconds later, one realises it was not a great idea to wet this: it is now very bitter. Perhaps that bitterness was hidden by the acidity at cask strength? In any case, it is no longer really enjoyable. Finish: warm and comforting, if not a little acidic. Come to think of it, it is also rather bold: my upper gum and the tip of my tongue feel like I have been anaesthetised for a tooth extraction -- completely numb! In terms of flavours, the finish is where this dram appeals most; it has fudge and cocoa butter in copious doses, before hazelnuts operate a daring comeback. They are riper than before, so that is good. I am led to think of a British cheese platter, yet not because of the cheeses so much: instead, it is the wooden board, grapes, relish and celery sticks that trigger that thought. And it works, I must admit. Water, again, works less well. It turns this into a half-drunk bowl of cold chicory-brew, or stale, under-strength instant coffee. This is bitter and spells 'regret', despite barley sugar popping round, in the end. Decent without water. 7/10

28/07/2021 Rosebank

Rosebank 12yo 1991/2004 (43%, Signatory Vintage, Bourbon Barrel, C#4710, 322b, b#49, 04/0638): nose: it is a little thin and spirit-y, though not quite vinegar-y, but as surprisingly as every other time I have had this, it has a thin veil of smoke, akin to faded flowers thrown into a domestic fire. Next to that is a combination of yellow flowers (buttercups, daffodils) and soft beeswax. As a matter of fact, over the space of five minutes, smoke disappears altogether to be entirely replaced by waxy notes of yellow plum and apple peels, as well as a dollop of plasticine. Perhaps one would detect dandelion stems too, sappy and leafy. The second nose brings an almost-minty freshness to complement a fruity Chablis. Unexpectedly, that all transforms into dusty dunnage warehouse and ash ground, after a while. What a ride! Mouth: well, there is definitely some smoke here too, playing along candlewax and spent wick. This palate is as waxy as the nose, with plum skins, apple peels and old modelling clay, yet there is a bitterer side to it; this time, the dandelion stems from the nose seem more pronounced, and the sap is, well, more bitter, if not frankly rubbery. The second sip strangely seems hotter than the first, bringing green chilli pepper into the picture for wax and heat. The mouthfeel goes from milky to gently drying on the gums, which makes me think of some white wines (Chenin blanc, probably). Finish: it is very easy at 43%, perhaps a bit too easy: it might have benefitted from a higher strength. The final notes are a compilation of the above, with wax, flowers and thin smoke, all carried by a milky texture. Here are also dry white wine, distant dandelion stems, candlewax and spent wick, all cloaked in smoke from a candle. Oh! A drop of chocolate milk makes a late appearance, and that is as pleasant as it reads. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, kruuk2)

27/07/2021 Glen Mhor

Glen Mhor 8yo (57%, Gordon & MacPhail, b. mid-to-late 1980s): leftover from December. Nose: harking back to the industrial revolution, this has hot metal, coal smoke and sulphur, matchbox strikers and exhaust fumes, coming out of a rusty exhaust pipe. Behind that hairy brutality are delicate notes of ripe orange, not far from turning blue. Or is decaying lemon peel? Either way, it brings that classic Mhor citrus, which is most welcome. And then, it goes back to heavy-duty tooling, steel wool, iron filings, hot lathed metal, and dry sink funk on a warm, sunny day. It is hard not to mentally compare this with its 40% sibling, and this one is obviously more boisterous and unruly, despite the clear affiliation. The second nose adds cedar wood into the mix, as well as bone-dry pine cones. The sink funk comes back, blended with shoe polish and crushed walnut shells. Mouth: on the palate, it is an onslaught of ripe oranges and blood oranges. It has got a bitter touch too, and by that, I mean more than just the orange pith; walnut flesh, or walnut liqueur, probably. It is certainly nuttier than the nose suggested. All that is cloaked in delicate smoke, and, as it swirls around the mouth, it becomes strikingly (if fleetingly) hot. The second sip cranks up the citrus, and it hints at marmalade, simmering in a cast-iron cauldron, over a coal fire. It has a pronounced sweetness too, not unlike lemon bars, and a coat of verdigris. The cauldron must be copper, rather than cast iron, then. Finish: were it not for the pronounced orange-y note, this would be austere as a Tory budget (I really wanted to write that). It has hot metal filings, sink funk, and a smoke that is much less delicate than on the palate. The whole leaves the tongue limp like a piece of leather, and the palate as if covered in lichen and verdigris. Repeated sipping tones down the austerity and lets the oranges take control, with, again, a distinct sweetness (caster sugar) and pouring honey, crystallising in the jar. Ooft! My kind of drams. It could do with a little more complexity, I suppose. 8/10

24/07/2021 Glen Garioch

First dram after this year's second heatwave.

Glen Garioch 25yo 1986/2011 (50%, Douglas Laing The Old Malt Cask 50°, Hogshead, C#DL7866174b): nose: it feels perfect for this grey-yet-sticky day, with a slightly spirit-y nose that becomes earthy before the ink is dry. Hazelnuts at various stages of ripeness, shoe polish, mud, drying in crusty cakes. This nose has something else too; maybe dark fruits? Not so dark, in fact: apricot liqueur, red apricots, augmented by a gently marzipan-y note. In pure Glen Garioch fashion, this also has something more vegetal, without ever becoming leafy; I reckon some kind of bush, recently felled. It is almost a honeysuckle bush, felled in the midst of its blooming: all of a sudden, the flowery perfume vanishes, replaced by sappy branches. In any case, it is very enticing, even if it leaves the back of the nose a bit stripped. The second nose adds a strange, warm-red-ink note for extra entertainment. Mouth: melted candlewax from daffodil-scented candles, and hot honey, as well as a sweet-yet-powerful touch of spice (stem ginger). Perhaps this has some resin too, but it is mostly as above: candlewax and stem ginger. The second sip welcomes purple sweets, somewhere between cough lozenges and violets. As it settles on the palate, bathing the tongue, the taste buds are treated to a drop of shampoo (delicate hair). It is not over the top, though it will stop me drinking a lot of this. Finish: I can easily imagine the French calling this soapy, but, for me, it is successful. The stem ginger strikes again, the honey coats the palate, and the melted candlewax cranks up the heat. The cut bushes turn up the bitterness a notch or two, and that would be enjoyable enough, but it is further elevated by an evanescent aftertaste of violet boiled sweets. If one does not care for that, it is likely subtle enough to not be bothersome. I like it myself. Repeated sipping ends up putting the spotlight on that violet-y side, probably enough for some to call this "flawed," yet I rest my case: it does remain pleasant to me, even bringing back the mud in the aftertaste, over time. 7/10 (Thanks for the sample, PS)

15/07/2021 Strathmill

Strathmill 23yo 1992/2015 (47.7%, A.D. Rattray Cask Collection, Bourbon Hogshead, C#668072, 280b): nose: it smells fresh, lively and young, with hay, straw and apple-cider vinegar, Chenin blanc and unripe gooseberries. In fact, it seems borderline spirit-y, which, at that venerable age, is no small surprise. Allow me to use the phrase: "it must have been a tired cask." There is an almost-sandy aspect to this, until it turns more vegetal at last, with green hazel, jasmine not quite blooming yet, and -- wait for it -- marzipan-coated bergenia. How unusual! Well, breathing does good things, if not miracles, and the initially-difficult nose does become more welcoming, after all. Phew! The second nose adds gravel into the mix, the bedrock of a clean aquarium, before fish are introduced. Mouth: dry and chewy, this is reminiscent of scented pencil erasers, or new-flip-flop soles. Surprisingly enough, that is not a bad thing. It opens up on the palate to release almond paste and cashew burfi, augmented with a few drops of royal-blue ink. Alcohol integration is optimal, and how little wood spices there are are very much under control, merely elevating the liquid from bland to pleasant. It does remain a tad rubbery, though no complaint from tOMoH on that front. The second sip witnesses a skirmish opposing gritty salt and bold sweetness, which adds another dimension. Dry raspberries appear via retro-nasal olfaction too, woo! Finish: chewy and rubbery indeed, the finish sees more of a five-spice kick, as well as ground cassia-bark and a coconut-milk thickness that rocks my boat, even if it seems totally disconnected from the nose. After a few sips, the salty/sweet fight from the mouth spills over into the finish, though here, there is no doubt sweetness wins. Sweet and acidic fruits (grapes, plums, gooseberries) point back to the vinegar from earlier, though it is more pleasant now, obviously part of a greater whole. The grapes turn drier, more Chenin blanc than Thompson, and flirt with gravel -- gravel upon which plums have been crushed, that is. 7/10

12/07/2021 Mosstowie

Mosstowie 33yo 1975/2008 (48.4%, Duncan Taylor Rarest of the Rare, C#5816, 184b, b#008): nose: ripe yellow citrus-y fruit shoots up immediately; pineapple, yellow kiwi, calamansi, Sicilian lemon, as well as physalis. Pretty soon, all that is joined by a lovely custard-y wave that carries not only vanilla powder, but also woody tones: balsa-wood sawdust, lemongrass, and the softest swirl of toffee. The citrus is quick to reply, this time with pomelo and lime peels, mandarin foliage, chewy mandarin paste (if such a thing exists), accompanied by a drop of teak oil. This is a rollercoaster nose that only has peaks, not a single trough. The second nose has combava leaves and apple mint, which is as refreshing as it is unexpected. Mouth: from the get-go, it is sweet lemonade and delicious fruits -- as expected: pineapple, calamansi, yellow kiwi -- bathing in a river of creamy custard. The alcohol integration is flawless, the 48.4% giving just enough of a spicy kick to make this the perfect breakfast dram, for a gentle-but-resolute wake-up. The second sip produces a greener hue, less ivy than citrus foliage, perhaps, yet it is certainly leafier. Some kind of mint, maybe? Why! yes, it is lemon mint. In the long run this mouth also becomes chewier, which hints at leaves as well. Finish: for half a second, it seems in danger of showing a bitter side, gained from thirty-three years in wood. For half a second only, though: the cavalcade of ripe fruits nips that bitterness in the bud with an assertive level of acidity. Again, it is pineapple, pomelo (perhaps even grapefruit, here), calamansi and Sicilian lemon, and they are more acidic with each sip. It is a medium-long finish that leaves the mouth as if coated in lemon zest. In the long run, sawdust grows in influence, with custard powder, baking soda and ground white pepper, yet the woody side wisely remains in the shadow of the aforementioned fruit. Winner. 9/10

04/07/2021 Arran Limited Edition Mystery Tasting replayed (Part 2)

If one were dyslexic, one could easily conceive that, on this fourth day of July, the Arran mice are in fact, Amerrican.

Moving on. The video resumes at 33:53.

Dram #4

Nose: another wine maturation, I would wager. It has earth and roasted chicken wings, focaccia, but also shoe polish, leather belts and lacquered shoes. The nose is not shy with the wood, and it is exotic wood, here. Ebony and pangium, to be precise, also known as kepayang tree. To be fair, I have no clue what the latter smells like, but this reminds me of its seed, the kluwak nut. Several minutes in, a nut liqueur appears, sweet, heady, and, well, nutty. Hair lacquer? Check. Wood varnish? Check. Strawberry liqueur is about too, added to a spoonful of melted dark chocolate. Mouth: nice attack, with enough wood spices to keep one on one's toes (ginger, cinnamon, cedar wood) and crushed hazelnut shells. The back of the palate welcomes more nut liqueur, though it is not as bold as it was on the nose; it is better balanced by the gentle wood spices. Come to think of it, it might be that mysterious strawberry liqueur from the nose too. Whichever it is, it is very pleasant. The liqueur comes a little too close to black-liquorice bootlaces for comfort, perhaps. Fortunately, the sweetness keeps it on the straight and narrow. Finish: a decent kick, even if it does not feel particularly strong. It is, however, mildly drying, with cinnamon-stick splinters, ginger peel, yet also something rather sweet and fruity. Is it candied apples? Actually, it is marzipan, soaked in fortified wine. Repeated sipping increases the winey notes at the detriment of all else. Comment: it is OK. It could be any sherried or Port-matured whisky, though. Arran 21yo b.2020 Kildonan & Pladda Island (50.4%, OB The Explorers Series, Volume Three, Sherry Butts, Puncheons and Ruby Port Pipes, 9000b) 7/10

Dram #5

Nose: with this one, we are firmly in earthy territory. It is herbes de Provence, barbecue marinade and herbs-infused oils. How is that earthy? Well, to me, it smells like scrubland. Thyme, dried rosemary, oregano, yet also watercolour. I feel like this has chicken too, although it is butter chicken, not (yet) roasted. And then, further in the back, I detect Bourbon-sprinkled custard cream. The herbs soon come back, lemon thyme leading the charge, this thyme (Ho! Ho! Ho!) Later on, we have wine or liqueur, once again, yet it does not stray too far from Bourbon, now; coconut and vanilla, custard and cake -- raspberry ice cream cake, if you please. Mouth: strawberry or raspberry cream and pink-and-white marshmallows fight with spearmint and cedar-wood sheets for the spotlight. It also has grapefruit peel, and a definite wood bitterness. The second sip is juicier, still on a grapefruit tip, yet the bitterness will not go away. Finish: grapefruit peel is prominent, at this stage. Unfortunately, alongside the fruit comes an unmistakable bitterness, and it is a little too loud. Repeated sipping brings about a citrus-y-custard touch, acidic and sweet in equal measures, with vanilla and grapefruit flesh. The bitterness seems better incorporated, yet it is still there. Comment: despite its clear fruitiness, I find the bitterness throws this one off. My least favourite of the flight. Arran 23to b.2021 Drumadoon Point (49.5%, OB The Explorers Series, Volume Four, Sherry Puncheons, 9000b) 6/10

Dram #6

Nose: watercolour and plasticine, wax and modelling clay. A basket of citrus grows in intensity, behind that, hinting at another Bourbon cask (not that there have been many thus far, mind). Here are grapefruit peels, dried at first, then fresh. Then, all of a sudden, it is a bunch of jasmine, honeysuckle and lilac that rush through the nose. This is fragrant and floral, light and spring-like. Sure! There are tender wood shavings, too, yet it is a flower show with a basket of fruits, mostly. The second nose raises the stakes by introducing a lovely citrus-y custard to a shortbread base. Mouth: meow, this is fruity. Pineapple, calamansi, tangerine. In amongst all that juicy fruit, a few lily-of-the-valley stems stick out a bit, and bring out some bitterness, although it is not bothersome this time. That is especially not bothersome because the fruits come crashing in waves, supported by custard and some kind of menthol cream or pine resin. The second sip serves an excellent lemon custard with shortbread soaked in it. Finish: all the citrus regroups for the final assault on the taste buds -- grapefruit, calamansi, mandarin, pineapple, juicy and acidic. Mind you, it is a lot sweeter and custard-y than the nose suggested: the acidity is subtle, here. It is a pretty long finish that leaves the tongue bathing in citrus-y vanilla custard. Comment: easily my favourite of the selection. Also, it is not a Bourbon cask, regardless of what I thought. Arran 24yo 1996/2020 (47.8%, OB Ultimate Selection The Festival Single Cask for Arran Malt and Music Festival, Sherry Hogshead, C#1996/048, 271b) 8/10

Well, it does not replace a tasting in real life, but at the same time, I liked that I could stop the video to concentrate on the drams.

(Thanks for the samples, MR)

03/07/2021 Arran Limited Edition Mystery Tasting replayed (Part 1)

A sample pack turned up in the post, in the middle of June, with an invitation to join a virtual blind tasting on the 26th. OB selfishly made that impossible by inviting tOMoH to sample under-aged whiskies on that same day. On the bright side, this virtual tasting was recorded. Today (and tomorrow, as it turns out), we will replay it.

Dram #1

Nose: we have brandy and paint thinner, dried onion skins and potato peels. A couple of minutes in, it thankfully opens up a bit and reveals custard and Bourbon-infused lemon marmalade. It smells rather fiercely acidic, all things considered. Further back is a note of cherry-liqueur praline that is pleasant indeed. Wafer biscuits and cake, baked to a point it has turned crusty. Mouth: pepper shortbread, crushed pink peppercorns, crushed (not ground) cloves, white cardamom pods immersed in Bourbon cream, Bourbon-cream biscuits. It is crisp, with a definite bite, and it ignites the palate like lime Tabasco sauce. Finish: assertive, acidic, it has a lingering Bourbon sweetness, with banoffee pie, yet also crushed cardamom pods and lemon pulp. Mind you, this also has a non-negligible kick! Yup, it is sweet, acidic and spicy at the same time. Comment: pretty good. It turns out we had it at the distillery, a few years ago. The Arran Malt 10yo 2007/2017 James MacTaggart (54.2%, OB Master of Distilling, First Fill Bourbon Barrels, 12000b) 7/10

Dram #2

Nose: heady, syrupy wine -- Italian wine, in my opinion. It is fruity, perhaps even sparkly (Fragolino?), but winey for sure. Suddenly, it turns into an omelette that has stuck to the pan. or overly-fried scrambled eggs. It retains a mildly-musty-softly-acidic note of red wine nonetheless. Over time, the nose gains red onions, yet they are well behaved. There is even something earthier, not sure what it is. Mushroom stock, maybe? Re-hydrated shiitake water? Mouth: the attack is mellower, gentler than the first dram's. In fact, it is velvety and pillow-like. Here, the red wine morphs into soaked raisins. The palate sees some tannins, currants, grape skins, fermenting, but not yet vinegary. Each sip feels more acidic than the last. Repeated sipping brings out an earthy side on the palate too -- think leather boots after a walk in a ploughed field. Finish: dark fruits, here, with black grapes, blackcurrants, blackberries and heady wine make for a classy sangria. Once again, the finish has an unexpected kick, next to the undeniable fruitiness. Cranberry jam, lingonberry compote, and, maybe, some rancio. Lastly, piping-hot sticky toffee pudding, melting in the mouth and coating the oesophagus. Comment: Amarone cask? Wrong. The Arran Malt 12to 2006/2019 Licence To Distil (51.8%, OB Master of Distilling, Palo Cortado Sherry Casks, 12000b) 7/10

Dram #3

Nose: what the deuce is this? Fresh ink in the inkwell, then plastic pouches and plastic food tubs. You know the ones, but hush-hush! No brand advertising. Once the plastic dissipates, it makes way for the rubber seal of those food tubs. I remember some rums at SMWS that smelled like this! Industrial glue, rubbery joints inside jam-jar lids... Behind all that is a spoonful of blackcurrant jelly and a fistful of liquorice allsorts. Mouth: well, the palate has little to do with the nose, funnily enough. It is sweet on the tongue, with blackcurrant jelly. Retro-nasal olfaction brings back the liquorice, bitter and a half, then toothpaste and peppermint. None of the plastic seems to have made it thus far, which is good news. I do not really go around licking plastic for a laugh, you see. Fruit grows, over time, as does peppermint. Finish: unexpected again, the finish is the softest of the first three drams. It has pillow-like berries (blackberries, blackcurrants), a drop of peppermint, and it is generally refreshing, not unlike a good, fruit-flavoured mouthwash. Plastic comes back, after a few sips, though it is very much in the background, merely adding a gentle bitterness. Comment: what could this be? Rum cask? Arran 13yo b.2020 (54.4%, OB Small Batch Lochranza Distillery Exclusive, 8y in Bourbon Casks + 5y Rum Plantation Casks Finish) 7/10

I need a break. Let us resume tomorrow.

(Thanks for the samples, MR)