30/10/2021 The horror

On this eve of Halloween and daylight saving, OB, JS and first-timer SOB join me for an afternoon of dramming. GL unfortunately discovers, twelve minutes before the start of the tasting, that Wales is a three-hour drive away from the capital, and that he will not make it on time. As for Cavalier66, his busy social life inflicted him a nasty cold that impaired his smell and taste. BA tested positive for COVID-19 on Thursday, and announced that he would not make it, clearly oblivious to the fact he had said two weeks prior that he was not free today. Ha! Even OB almost flaked out, he admits, unable to distinguish a Saturday from a Sunday. Luckily, it only makes for a good story.

Soundtrack: Ab Ovo - Empreintes

SOB and OB build the sequence

.

tOMoH presents: Hellrayrshire

Rare Ayrshire 34yo 1975/2009 (45.2%, Signatory Vintage Cask Strength Collection, Bourbon Barrel, C#558, 166b, b#115, 9/124): nose: delicate flower pistils, make-up powder and crushed biscuit (shortbread, probably). Later on, it is lemon drizzle and vanilla sugar. Mouth: unripe-banana peel (JS) and a gentle bitterness (JS). I find it soft, silky, with more shortbread and, indeed, a green, bitter touch, almost leafy. This is spring-like, but it is also fitting on this sunny October afternoon. Pomelo, soft lime and unripe calamansi appear, in the medium term, which all mean acidity, faint bitterness, as well as fruit aplenty. Finish: more lemon drizzle and macha-tea doughnut, lime zest and pomelo custard. The profile and ABV designate it to go first, but it is perhaps a shame, as the first dram in any line-up is de facto sacrificed. This is excellent and deserves to shine. 9/10

Soundtrack: Noizaddict - Synth-pop mix (20-01-2010)

SOB presents: American Werewolf in London

Bimber King's Cross St Pancras b.2021 (58.5%, OB The Spirit of the Underground, American Oak Ex-Bourbon Cask, C#129, 259b, b#160): a series dedicated to the London Underground stations. It could be long-lived... Nose: banana sweets and an unexpected, pronounced green note (dried sage, oregano, bay leaves, thyme). Over time, the green, herbaceous aspect turns almost metallic. Mouth: it has more bite than a werewolf (to paraphrase Colin Dunn). Seriously, it retains a strong metallic touch, which may start with sage and definitely ends with the back of a silver spoon. But there is also lovely, juicy grapes and custard -- oh! yes, it has a custard-y texture, this one. OB, on the other hand, finds it syrupy, sweet and sour, while JS thinks it is almost vinegar-y. Finish: warming, but not actually that hot, the finish has plantain, baked banana, and sage-sprinkled doughnut (again). It is a relatively short finish, in terms of flavours, yet the warmth stays on. 8/10

SOB: "If you take a picture of the QR code, they'll offer you a discount on your next purchase."
tOMoH: "They should offer you a Zone-3 travelcard on the Picadilly line."
SOB: "We'd use the cork to touch in!"

Soundtrack: Lamia Vox - Sigillum Diaboli

SOB presents: I Know Watt Whisky You Did Last Summer

SOB also has another pun for this, which I do not fully get (Impergerial?) He misses the obvious Vampirial, though.

Imperial 25yo 1996/2021 (53.6%, Watt Whisky, Refill Barrel, 214b): nose: deeper and richer, it is lively and feisty nonetheless. There is a lot going on, and it is all tightly interwoven. Certainly pepper, hot jack fruit, hot pineapple that melts into a pulp, fruity yoghurt, but also sumac. Mouth: oily! Orange-blossom-infused olive oil, to be precise. Then, a softly-drying touch of old wood appears to balance that mellowness with bitterness and spice -- satsuma, ground orange peel, ground red chilli. The second sip has more citrus, louder satsumas, veering towards oranges. Finish: mandarin peel and... It leaves me wondering a bit: it is so well integrated that I find it hard to pick flavours apart. White pepper sprinkled on hot citrus slices, hot, custard-y yoghurt, with pomelo wedges thrown in to enhance the acidity and the bitterness -- both of which are mild enough, yet they add complexity. Excellent. 9/10

tOMoH: "A friend from out of town has burnt out and is struggling to find out what he wants to do with his life. In this city, you can leave a job and walk straight into another one. And, of course, we pay dearly for it: he's done paying his home, and I have twenty years left on my mortgage."
SOB: "But we have nice stuff on our doorstep..."
tOMoH: "Yeah! If I want vegan Korean food, I can!"

Soundtrack: Noizaddict - Synth-pop mix (18-01-2020)

JS presents: Warlockside

Lochside 21yo d.1981 (50%, Lombard Jewels of Scotland, Bourbon Cask, C#607): nose: peppery (OB) and almost devoid of the trademark fruity onslaught. It is a bit more nuanced, with lots of pepper fleetingly hiding chunks of mango, papaya and even maracuja. There is some hay too, subtle, and burnt gas (think of the smell of a natural-gas hob or stove). The second nose sees dry lichen, a pinch of dust, and a touch of wax. Mouth: velvety, comforting, then fruity AF. Lots of mango, smoked peach, dusty orange slices about to turn blue with mould. Finish: of a medium length, it has dusty fruit and a thin layer of pepper. Peach, sliced orange, satsuma, plum... This is beautiful. Better than I remembered it, if that is possible. 9/10

Food enters: St Felicien, Comté, St Nectaire, Mont Charvin dried sausage

JS [back from the hairdresser}: "SOB, I want to see your generous pour."
[SOB pours JS the Bimber]
JS: "Oh! That's enough!"
tOMoH: "That's a small pour! OB had more."
JS: "Would you have continued, if I hadn't stopped you?"
tOMoH: "The rim is the limit... Great title for a porno, that."
SOB: "Is that what you do, when you are not drinking your bottles?"
OB: "How do you think he can afford all this whisky?"

Soundtrack: Apocryphos - Stone Speak

OB presents: Ben Neviscerated

Ben Nevis 19yo 1996/ (51.8%, OB Single Cask, C#1424): nose: banane flambée, porridge, a dollop of damp earth, clay pots, dried plantain skins. Later on, it is pencil shavings and raspberry jam. I observe it is less dirty than some Ben Nevises that are so popular, at the moment. Mouth: oh! it is plenty dirty here, with oily rags, greasy knives and ink stains on peach slices. The second sip cranks up the fruit, yellow and juicy, plum-and-grapefruit juice, very nice indeed. Finish: custard, though it is also loaded with peach, ink and engine oil. Over time, that morphs into a bold tropical-fruit blanket, with warm mango and stewed persimmon bathing in lovely vanilla custard. Great surprise. 8/10

That is a bottle OB bought at auction, and it turns out Cavalier66 was bidding against him, after telling him how good it was.

OB: "This one is exactly how Cavalier66 described it to me..."
tOMoH: "What? Expensive and hard to get?"

Soundtrack: Soft Cell - Non-Stop Electric Cabaret

OB: "I'm not sure I've had a Pittyvaich before."
SOB: "Did you pour one at Coke Float?"
tOMoH: "Yeah, but neither of you was there."
OB: "So much virginity lost, today!"
tOMoH: "You won't be able to sit down for two weeks!"

Popcorn enters.

tOMoH presents: The Pittyvaich and the Pendulum

JS and I lament that GL is not with us; The Pittyvaich and the Penderyn would have been a great double-whammy.

Pittyvaich 14yo (54.5%, James MacArthur Fine Malt Selection imported by Pevarello, b. ca 1990): nose: a completely different ballgame, with cardboard and salted popcorn (or is that the popcorn?). OB finds it porridge-y, sour, full of fermentation aromas and crusty bread, a bit charred. I have hot cobblestones, while JS reckons toast -- we all agree on Biscotte/Melba toast, in the end, with even char and a thin veil of smoke. Mouth: hot, muscular, hairy, earthy, cardboard-y. It has stale porridge, flat cola, yet also piping-hot marmalade and hot compote. There is a dichotomy at play between the cereal and the fruit. Finish: caramelised apricots, roasted cereals, malt (OB), porridge stuck to the sauce pan. I love this, today. 8/10

OB: "We were flying at high altitude, but..."
tOMoH: "You don't like it? I know this one is very divisive."
OB: "I love it. Best, so far."

We talk about good tracks being always too short: if they are three minutes long, they should be six; if they are six they should be ten. To prove the case, I play the following record:

Soundtrack: 777 - Alpha Wave (Plastikman's Acid House Remix)

Then, I decide to follow that path.

Soundtrack: Plastikman - Sheet One

SOB presents: The Cage

Springbank 18yo 2002/2021 (52.8%, Duty Paid Sample, Fresh Port Cask, Warehouse 3, Rotation 843): a bottle bought from The Cage, a restricted-access cupboard in a back room of the Cadenhead shop, in Campbeltown, where one can pick up one-off bottles and other curiosities. Nose: charred maple syrup, toasted oak, charred chocolate that has been left too long in the microwave oven. However, there is also a touch of varnish, rubbing feathers with toast and overly-roasted peanuts. The second nose is vegetative, with natural gas and cooked-vegetable water. Mouth: sugary, in a caramelised-Demerara-sugar way, it has lots of smoke from the chimney of a coal stove. It is syrupy to a high level, giving away peaches, poached in reduced Port. It is powerful and turns rather tannic, in the long run. Finish: big, sweet, hot, gently smoky. It seems that the toasted notes have all gone, surprisingly enough, making room for maple syrup and caramelised manuka honey, treacle, almost. It leaves the gums a bit dry, as if covered in ash, but it does the trick. 7/10

OB presents: GlenDronachloween

OB also thought he would open the box, and I would look at the colour with horror.

The GlenDronach 19yo 1994/2013 (58.4%, OB Single Cask, Oloroso Sherry Butt, C#101, 628b, b#396): nose: gas, boiled vegetables, sulphur-adjacent (OB, inventing words). Behind that is, of course, lots of wood varnish and wood lacquer. Water makes this more cardboard-y, with coffee spilled on a cardboard box. Mouth: ginger, cinnamon and liquorice root aplenty to accompany a strongly varnish-y accent. It also has lukewarm, flat Dr. Pepper and ebony. Further sips are sweeter, with Port, PX, and prune compote. Water makes it sickly sweet and syrupy as hell. A cola pouch, prior to being mixed with carbonated water. Anyone who has worked at a fast-food joint will see the reference. This is toasted and bitter to the extreme. Further sips add a note of dark sugars, but it remains very earthy, all in all. Water, again, turns it sweet and syrupy, although this finish stays spicy too, dishing out ginger and cinnamon drops. 7/10

Soundtrack: Front Line Assembly - Monument

Good times and a cracking line-up. Considering the hefty pours, it is perhaps a good thing more people did not turn up, after all. :)

Dram of the day:
OB: Pittyvaich, Lochside a close second
tOMoH: Lochside
SOB: Lochside
JS: Ben Nevis

28/10/2021 red71's surprise birthday bash

As said on Tuesday, it was red71's birthday, this week. That calls for a tasting.

Gaija, Bishlouk, STL, JS and I join birthday boy red71 for a virtual sesh. Blind, of course. Even the theme is only revealed at the end.

Dram #1

Nose: "it doesn't smell bad, this," says Bishlouk. I find banana, fudge and loud pomelo, while everyone else sits in stunned silence. First dram of the night on a cold crowd, probably.
Mouth: a bit more austere and less accessible than the nose suggested (Gaija and Bishlouk). Bishlouk reckons it is not the the easy starter that goes down on its own. red71 finds it rather hot, while I detect a certain bitterness.
Finish: total custard onslaught.
Comments: Gaija thinks of a Lowlander, perhaps a Bladnoch, while red71 ventures it could be an Ardmore.

Mosstowie 33yo 1975/2008 (48.4%, Duncan Taylor Rarest of the Rare, C#5816, 184b, b#008) 9/10

Full notes here.

As soon as I paste the reference in the chat, Bishlouk shouts 'Mosstowie.' Gaija is extremely impressed, oblivious to the fact Bishlouk merely read the answer, not guessed it. Lots of teasing (of both) ensues.

Dram #2

Nose: fresh going fresher, it develops apple mint, tarragon, wax and smoke (Bishlouk), then soot and tiger balm. Bishlouk and Gaija find it very refined, while STL (who has been on a call for the past ten minutes) detects strong banana and Haribo's banana sweets. Later on, he finds sweat and wet newspapers too.
Mouth: Bishlouk reckons it is shot, spent. Gaija concurs in that he feels no alcohol whatsoever. For me, it still retains bitterness, a distant-but-acrid smoke, marmalade and orange peels. Bishlouk agrees that it has a bit of wood, though he claims it lacks complexity and flavour, despite its lemon peels and woody tones. Gaija falls into the sea and comes out with melted plastic and seashells.
Finish: Gaija finds it thin or refined, and sushi-like, while red71 thinks it is bitter. Gaija confirms umami and raw fish.
Guesses: red71 reckons a Springbank, Bishlouk guesses a Brora, then a Bruichladdich, Gaija thinks Glenisla, then Glen Garioch; STL, wiser than the others, decides not to cover himself with ridicule.

Ledaig 1974/2000 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Rare Old, JJ/CB) 9/10

Full notes here.

Bishlouk: "Well, when I said Brora..."
tOMoH: "Don't even try. You failed, like all the others."

With the alcohol flowing, the tongues start going. Guesses become bolder and the conversation more feisty and saucy.

Dram #3

Nose: "festive and fruity," says Gaija. red71 finds plant stems, which Bishlouk corroborates with the terms 'industrial' and 'herbaceous'. I find it deliciously fruity, but, of course, I do not have a terrible sense of smell. :-) Bishlouk then finds it fresh; red71 seems to agree, who calls it a Littlemill nose. Gaija looks towards Ireland, noting strawberry and raspberry jams.
Mouth: Bishlouk calls it very Littlemill-y, though admits it could be a Glen Keith. Gaija finds chamomile, while it is full of citrus (calamansi) and citrus foliage, as far as I am concerned. red71 compares the mouth to sucking on rocks to illustrate the mineral side.
Finish: custard and caramel flan, fudge, mocha pudding, yet with a mineral, chalky side too (Gaija).
Guesses: after establishing it is no Littlemill, Gaija ventures Balblair, then Aultmore, while the others decide not to make fools of themselves.

Deanston 35yo 1977/2012 (40.4%, The Whisky Agency & The Nectar, 253b) 9/10

Full notes here.

red71: "Well, maybe Bishlouk messed up my samples, because I do not recognise anything you all say."
Bishlouk: "It should smell of urine. They are Monday-to-Friday urine samples."
red71: "It tastes like your lady's urine indeed."

Dram #4

Nose: fruity and pastry-like (Bishlouk), green bananas (Bishlouk), "very-active Bourbon cask that has imparted young wood" (red71). I find it gravel-y and a tad austere, personally. Gaija thinks it is beautiful, with very clear fruit. I agree on mandarine, though insist on varnish, gravel and wood glue. Suddenly, it becomes more herbaceous, emitting sage, salsaparilla and oregano. Now, the trademarks are starting to appear. But of course, I know what it is.
Mouth: STL notes that it is powerful -- Gaija confirms it must be around 52%. Bishlouk calls it noble and refined, which Gaija approves, listing varnish and precious woods. red71, for his part, senses that it is much higher in alcohol than the previous, and full-bodied. I find polished fruit stones, with a pronounced-but-perfectly-fine bitterness.
Finish: long, warming like a radiator, a bit herbaceous and mineral, close to white-hot limestone. Gaija talks of pineapple and varnish again, and I correct into charred pineapple. STL tells us he detects a spritzy pinch of salt.
Guesses: Gaija thinks of a Glenburgie, as does red71; Bishlouk and STL side with Glenlossie, Bishlouk proudly claiming it is obviously a Bourbon cask. When told no-one is even in the right region, Gaija suggests it may be a St Magdalene, thereby scoring the first (and last) point of the evening.

Linlithgow 25yo 1982/2008 (59.2%, Signatory Vintage Cask Strength Collection for La Maison du Whisky Collectors' Edition, Wine-treated Butt, C#2201, 388b, b#313, 8/513) 9/10

Full notes here.

Gaija: "Sometimes, this sort of profiles smells a bit like gas."
Bishlouk: "That's because you've just farted."

Bishlouk: "I get what you're saying with gas in the nose..."

tOMoH: "Your nose is too close to your mouth!"

Bishlouk: "The theme cannot be whiskies from the 1970s. This is from the 1980s. Red labels, perhaps?"
Gaija: "All distilleries that have had different names?"
red71: "All bottled in the 2000s?"

Dram #5

Nose: "and now, for something completely different" (Bishlouk). This is refined and complex (Bishlouk), yet it has some sulphur (Gaija) and cooked cabbage (STL, who refers to brewing as well, particularly mashing). Gaija notes garlic cloves, and red71 settles on matchsticks.
Mouth: Bishlouk feels like he has entered a factory, the whisky being industrial and oily. red71 goes along with the factory theme, and adds liquorice to the mix. Gaija then lists limestone, gravel and earth too.
Finish: "this one kicks like a mule," says STL. Gaija finds it austere and the antithesis of charming, even if he likes it: no fruit, no sugar. Gaija and red71 agree it is an extremely long finish, with red71 stating it is borderline peaty. I am surprised no-one mentions burning hay, but, hey! (pun intended) who am I to judge others' (wrong)  perceptions?
Guesses: Gaija says Springbank, then Banff; Bishlouk reckons a Mannochmore, while it makes STL think of a Lochindaal. red71 carefully stays silent, showing all that he is the wise man.

Glendullan 16yo b.1998 The Centenary Bottling (65.9%, OB for the distillery's centenary, b#000210)

Full notes here.

tOMoH: "I thought of red71, when I selected this last one. I thought it might be his profile."
red71: "That's right!"
STL: "You thought of him?"
tOMoH: "He likes virile, hairy whiskies."

Bishlouk: "Do you score all your wanks?"
red71: "Of course! With detailed notes and all."
tOMoH: "And samples."
Gaija: "That's something to make you run out of rows in Excel..."

Time to reveal the theme. All the attempts at discovering it have miserably failed, of course.

It was pretty instinctive, really.

red71 asks for more information about Burns' Night. I explain the (relatively) set menu and the occasion to try lots of whiskies. I lament that B****t may make it harder to serve haggis in the future.

tOMoH: "A Burns' Night Supper without haggis is like a wank without Excel."
red71 and Bishlouk: "What is next year's theme?"
tOMoH: "Probably the same as the theme for 2021 [which was cancelled]: Man 2 Man -- anything with a man on the label; a woman works too."

red71 and STL tease Bishlouk about his liking Golden Carolus whisky.

tOMoH: "Have you tried baiju? It's a Chinese alcohol distilled from rice. If you're offered it say 'no'! It'll make you burp fermented rice for a week afterwards."
red71: "But... is there a man on the label?"

Great evening with lots of banter and fun. A bit crass, at times, perhaps. :-)

27/10/2021 Glenturret

Glenturret 35yo 1977/2012 (46.2%, The Nectar of the Daily Drams): nose: a lovely stream of quinces, Conference pears and Golden apples, before it all melts into apricots, peaches, satsumas and fragrant nectarines. A waxy profile confidently emerges, more apricot skins than candles, though it has a whiff of ash or soot nonetheless. The longer it sits in the glass, the juicier it becomes, and it feels almost sparkly, with pomelade (pomelo lemonade, obviously), carbonated pressed greengages, and a drop of grape juice too. The fruits turn more and more tropical, guava and papaya, but also chunks of persimmon. Then, wood arises, subtle, if assertive; picture all those fruits on a wooden cutting board. Lastly, a distant toothpaste freshness settles in the nose. The second nose pushes that freshness towards a fragrant floweriness -- passiflora shampoo, jojoba, lemon mint. Mouth: bitter attack that comes with a massive -- if fleeting -- soapiness. It feels like drinking shampoo, for a second. Then, the fruits appear, and the initial, bitter impression turns into the acidic bite of pomelo, its skin providing enough bitterness to ascertain it is still the same dram that passed the lips a second before. Bergamot foliage, pink grapefruit, Chinese gooseberry... It is a symphony, now, carried by a creamy texture. It seems sweeter with each sip and comes close to a doughnut glazing -- one with lime, macha tea, rosemary and lots of sugar. Dried pomelo peels rock up, likely the drying factor. It never fully shakes off that soapy, shampoo-y touch, yet it is far from detrimental, according to this taster. Finish: creamy, fruity yoghurt, teeming with pomelo, peach, conference pear, quince compote and even mango. The finish has plenty of doughnut goodness too, sweet and fluffy (as usual, not talking about sickly-sweet Krispy Krap, but proper doughnuts), and citrus-y (pomelo, of course, tame lime, calamansi, satsuma). A herbal freshness subsists, perhaps more rosemary than mint, at this point, as does that overwhelming creaminess  that is akin to peach, nectarine or persimmon flesh. The acidity of lime goes on and on and on, though instead of drying the mouth, it keeps it salivating. Ace. What a beautiful drop! 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)

25/10/2021 Royal Brackla

Royal Brackla 24yo 1975/1999 (46%, Signatory Vintage for Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#5447, b#267): nose: oooh! Meow. This has apricot stones and fragrant prunes. It is extremely elegant. It gives an impression of velvet drapes that is most comforting. Then, it is dried dates, dried figs, crushed, oily Brazil nuts with the skin on. Once it is on that oily-nutty territory, it does not look back, oscillating instead between hazelnut, walnut, macadamia and pecan. The prunes are now an afterthought, competing with a lick of nail varnish. Pity, because that initial wave was super-enticing! The second nose has blueberries and currants, though it cannot decide between raisins and sultanas -- it is probably a blend of both. Mouth: nut oil indeed! Very-ripe-hazelnut oil, walnut oil with a dash of raspberry vinegar, even a drop of orange-blossom water. This feels fruity with no more precise indication of which fruit (something oily and vaguely citrus-y; bergamot?), fresh (apple mint) and simply well balanced. The second sip is more clearly citrus-y, giving satsumas and clementines, flirting with citrus peel, in places, meaning it does not lack bitterness. Repeated sipping accentuates that bitterness, which reaches metallic levels -- not quite pencil-sharpener blades, but razor blades or sharp kitchen-knife blade all the same. The bitter bite of the butcher's knife in the cold morning. Finish: now, the fruit takes off! It is prunes again, figs, figs, figs (fresh), some dried dates too, and dried currants, soaked back to life. That fruitiness might also encompass quince paste, pear jam, or caramelised apple compote. In any case, it is well juicy, syrupy and sticky. After a while, a minute bitterness appears on the centre of the tongue, close to lichen on stave, yet sweeter; likely a stave coated in apricot jam. It is a calmly warming, comforting finish if there ever was one, perfect for a bright-yet-brisk October morning. Wonderful. 9/10

Happy birthday, Red71!

22/10/2021 Glen Mhor

57.4 15yo 1979/1994 (63.1%, SMWS Society Cask): nose: it has the Glen Mhor austerity, with a dash of vinegar on limestone, lichen on stave and a faint note of pickled red onions. This is a strongly mineral dram, with mortar, hard grout and warm plaster. Well, plaster indeed! It becomes a bit more welcoming, displaying ground paprika, sumac and a little musk -- "a bit more welcoming," but it is not exactly Italian ice cream! The second nose seems a little more animal, with fox's skin and warm suede. Water creates a dichotomy: on the one hand, it unveils more fruit (crisp apples, old quinces); on the other, it gives a waft of an old drunk's breath -- fortunately quickly replaced by a drinks cabinet in mahogany. Last but not least to appear is unlacquered ebony. Mouth: with exactly zero surprise, this is pretty hot. It has lots of old, dusty cast iron, heated limestone, dried lichen, and also a drop of acidic lemon juice, or a pinch of citric powder. It feels like chewing on a live fox, at times, warm, hairy and animal, musky. Repeated sipping brings a leafier, sappier note (in other words: a soft bitterness) that cannot fully eclipse the mineral, citric profile, rather complements it. Water cools off the animal side and the heat, which puts the emphasis on lemon juice. This time, is comes with a drop of plum juice too. Finish: huge. It passes through the oesophagus merely emitting gentle fruit (warm, stale marmalade), rests for a second, then jumps out and reaches for the jugular, burning everything on the way up with glowing embers and ashy apple skins. Phwoar! It is distinctly fruitier in the finish than before, and the hot apple skins grow in intensity, joined by some apricot compote. There is a (very) faint whisper of dark-chocolate mousse too, hardly noticeable. The strength, though!... It really leaves the mouth shaken. With water, the finish leaves the mouth drier, giving the same impression after one sip as one gets after a whole night on the sauce. At the same time, there are touches of kumquat and clementine peels to elevate the whole. It works differently, but as well with or without water. Uncompromising. Love it. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)

21/10/2021 Caol Ila au naturel

Caol Ila 12yo 2008/2020 (54.1%, CWC The Electric Coo Series, STR Barrique): nose: on this windy, wet day, this profile is exactly what the doctor prescribed: a dry peat fire, peat bricks, stacked up for six months to dry in a field, pine-tree logs by the campfire, ashes, and even an ink well, filled with old, half-evaporated ink. Drying papyrus, carpenter's glue, waxy clay, drying away by the oven, pine splinters in the mud. Caramelised pumpkin chunks are up next, followed by silt cakes, in the second nose. Perhaps, this has rotting apples too. There is something more animal as well, be it sheep skin or horse's hair. It is dry and full of earthy dust. Finally, and very much restrained, hemp resin shows up, sticky and greasy like a hashish patty. Then, suddenly, it is back to dry earth and dusty farm paths. Mouth: the attack is surprisingly inky too -- India ink, augmented with a drop of pressed-prune juice. It is borderline petrolic, yet there is a delectable lick of dark fruit, in amongst the sticky, tarry liquid. Tarry rope, diesel-soaked fishing nets, and a shot of elderberry juice or pressed-prune juice. The texture reminds me of membrillo; only for the paste, not the taste, which is closer to Kaffir lime leaves, at this point, and that is a bit of a curveball. A lemon drop on an oil-stained oyster? Odd, but efficient. Actually, it seems to become more lemony with time, and that lemon is fighting diesel and sticky tar. It does turn fully petrolic on the tongue, almost mentholated. Finish: it feels narrow a finish to start with, yet it leaves the tongue as if chewing on horse's hair. The peat is toned down a bit, here; it is also not as dry as it was on the nose. Instead, we have spongy peat bogs, a drop of ink, and horse manure. The fruit, if it is still there, is now elderberry for sure, which is to say: earthy and rancio-y, rather than juicy and sweet. There are some embers, in the end, warming the throat for a long while. Subsequent sips bring back some fruit alright, and it is juicier than ever: prune juice (the syrup in a tin) join pressed dry elderberry. The elderberry is really taking off, with an almost-vinegary acidity to meet that trademark earthiness. In fact, after minutes, elderberry is all that clings to the mouth, and the aftertaste stays for a loooooong time! Simple and efficient. 7/10

20/10/2021 Inchgower

Inchgower 18yo d.1976 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#9891): nose: fruity and salty (or is that auto-suggestion?), this has plum compote and warm marmalade on toasted bread, with a layer of salted butter. The salt grows in intensity and becomes unmistakable, yet there is also something else -- something savoury and briny, perhaps Kalamata olives. Soon enough, it returns to jammy pastries, for a moment, then swings back to brine, this time adding capers and a drop of squashed elderberry, as well as a touch of rancio. The clay floor of a musty dunnage warehouse and ageing wood round off the first nose. The second nose has nail varnish, somewhere in the back, and a leafy aura -- waxy leaves, to be precise, yet I do not think it is rhododendrons. Desert roses, maybe? It also has a slightly nutty note, be that hazelnut oil or Brazil-nut body butter. Finally, a hint of cellophane makes itself heard too. Mouth: briny and coastal, this has a hefty dose of salt, sea spray, black olives and capers, yet also a sweeter vibe of plum compote, which is a s welcome as it is unexpected. The texture is velvety and thick; it reminds me of tulip petals, and there is a very-gentle bitterness to support that idea. The second sip puts the spotlight on that sweetness, and it becomes very much smooth compote or warm yoghurt. Ha! It may even have pineapple chunks, now, so ripe they melt on the tongue. Whatever it is, and however sweet it is, the taste buds never let one forget that it is sprinkled with sea salt, and punctuated with ginger peels or shy cedarwood sheets. Much later on, this even gives an impression similar to blanc-orange (Belgian gin, or pékèt, mixed with orange juice). Finish: interestingly, the finish seems chocolate-y to begin with -- milk chocolate. That chocolate dissipates, though, and makes room for mischievous briny flavours: olives again (green and black, this time), salted capers and others. Despite those savoury tastes, in the long run, the finish also becomes sweeter. Here too, it is plum compote, squashed pineapple chunks and warm fruity yoghurt, and here too, that is augmented with soft woody accents that grow louder with each sip. Cedarwood sheets, mild and drying, dried lemongrass shavings, ground mace. That sweet-and-salty meandering is quite something! 8/10

19/10/2021 Glenturret

Glenturret 35yo 1977/2013 (47.5%, Berry Brothers & Rudd for La Maison du Whisky, C#25): nose: from the first second, it is a parade of flowers and fruits, with jasmine and lychee exchanging a sweet kiss, pink grapefruit and apple mint holding hands, candied pineapple and kerria Japonica lost in conversation. All is subtlety, balanced and elegance. Behind that comes a (clean) black bin bag, warmed by the spring sun. Yes, it is odd, but it works. It is also fleeting: soon, pink-grapefruit peels overtake it and no longer let go. That is joined by sweeter fruits, kumquats and apricots, close to jam or compote. Velvet peach appears last. The second nose cranks up the apple mint. Even if it never becomes leafy, it certainly is fresh and a half. After a long while, the nose unveils a discreet metallic side too -- imagine a stainless-steel pot that has been heated, then left to cool down. Again, it works. Over time, even pomelo shows its face (or its smell, rather). Mouth: fresh and more lively than expected, it feels initially green, with droplets of bitter plant sap. Soon enough, fruit catches up, though it does keep a certain bitterness -- pink-grapefruit skins, clearly identifiable. As for the fruits, well, they are well known, by now: kumquat, grapefruit, barely-ripe pineapple, mandarin and lovely lychee (via retro-nasal olfaction). The second sip is well acidic, showcasing pink grapefruit again, this time with a lesser entourage. The apple mint from the nose turns into spearmint (it feels a little sharper, without reaching peppermint loudness), and the citrus comes complete with foliage. With time, the palate seems to grow a gentle note of ginger too -- crushed ginger, juicy and spicy. Finish: gently sweet in a pineapple-custard way, this has compote and jam aplenty, blended mandarin and apricot jams, squashed peaches, a touch of vanilla and custard-y grapefruit turnovers. In other words, it combines the sweet, the acidic, the creamy and the fruity brilliantly. Creamy? Oh! yes, this is creamy alright. It leaves the mouth as if having eaten cream puffs -- cream puffs augmented with candied citrus peel, candied pineapple cubes and soaked dried apricots. Superb. 9/10

Happy birthday, sonicvince.

18/10/2021 Ardnamurchan

Ardnamurchan Paul Launois Release b.2021 (57.6%, OB, Finished in 195-litre Barriques from Domaine Paul Launois Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, B#AD/04:21, 2576b): nose: crikey! What a fruity nose. It has pink grapefruit and pineapple, bursting out of the glass, candied pineapple cubes, and the subtlest pinch of earth. A minute in, it unveils something saltier, be that kelp or salt marshes, rosemary or gorse by a sea loch. In any case, it is very pretty. It soon backtracks towards the grapefruit and pineapple, this time adding yellow flowers into the mix (tulip petals), turning borderline sappy, in the long run, with buttercups and dandelion stems. Again, the fruity sweetness comes back, tickled by this delicate earthiness. The second nose is more polished, churning out waxy goodness and fruit on dry earth, while dialling down the sappy bitterness. By "waxy," I mean: grapefruit skins and apricots, yet also, well, wax. Hardened beeswax and all. Mouth: I dipped my lips into this last night, and it definitely seems stronger this morning -- ha! ha! The mouth is creamy, still fruity, closer to pink-grapefruit washing-up liquid than to the raw fruit, now. It retains the flowery, sappy bitterness hinted at by the nose, and, all in all, it is a winner. The second sip brings back some sappy greens, somewhere between clover and chives. Surprisingly and perhaps disappointingly, the rosemary is nowhere to be found, and the salt marshes are but a fading memory. At a push, one could still detect gorse flowers, yet the palate is an inexorable departure from that aspect; instead, it focuses more and more clearly on fruit -- peaches, nectarines, clementines, foliage included. Finish: warming, fruity and creamy in a hot-squashed-fruit way. The earthy side is perhaps most pronounced in this finish, initially leaving the tongue a little dehydrated, as if it had just processed toasted bread. The top of the palate still picks up fruit compote long after swallowing , though -- it is not a toasty dram at all. In fact, repeated sipping seems to crank up the fruitiness, and the earth on the tongue morphs into the acidic bitterness of dried citrus peels (pink grapefruit, still). Moreover, it unleashes some power, with red-chilli powder blended with ground ginger and cinnamon, but also a notch of tame peppermint. Ardnamoochan for the win! 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, WK)

15/10/2021 Bruichladdich

Bruichladdich d.2010 (unknown ABV, Private Cask Sample, Bourbon Barrel, drawn 2021): nose: dry, crisp, with a mix of mineral and waxy notes. Hot candlewax, apricot slices, served on slate, seal wax, granite. Frankly, there is not much happening beyond the wax and hard rock, but what is there is presented very convincingly. Perhaps it has a sprinkle of car-window-cleaning fluid, or defrosting spray. In the long run, though, and that is veeeeeeery subtle, a sweet fruitiness rises, somewhere between peach slices and Turkish delights, with loud powdered sugar. Lastly, scented pink pencil erasers rock up too. The second nose has a whiff of new car, to a point, with its combination of new plastic, rubber, and synthetic fabric. To call it petrolic would be a stretch, though: it is oil products, not diesel. Later, still, coca powder on a cake, pretty close to a chocolate bomb. Mouth: oooh! Waxy. There is an undeniable fruitiness from the off, with hot peaches and poached apricots. What strikes the senses, however, is the heat. This has to be in the high-ish 50s. Keeping it swirling around the mouth for a bit allows candlewax and, especially, spent wick to kick back into gear. The second sip has chewy dried apricot slices, served on a slate and sprinkled with a pinch of ash or soot. Regardless of how that reads, it works! Finish: modelling wax, apricot paste, plasticine. A chewy finish with a mellow bitterness -- so mellow that I find it hard to identify it. What it does have that is identifiable, on the other hand, is cinnamon powder. And it becomes more vivid with every second. The soot and ash from the palate are simply swapped for cinnamon powder, perhaps supported by ginger powder too -- it is still a potent potable. This is good! 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, WK)

13/10/2021 Bladnoch

Bladnoch 16yo d.1980 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#89/591/12): nose: a delicate nose, ripe with meadow flowers (buttercups, daisies, cornflowers) and a subtle hint of coffee grounds. The flowers develop to incorporate dandelions and blooming clover, and, if there is a fleeting sweetness, it soon turns earthy-dry, pointing at an omelette that has stuck to the frying pan. In no time, it is flowery and fresh again, slightly more minty than in the beginning. The second nose is closer to breakfast in a rustic kitchen, with a hot stove, toasted bread, jam jars, a pot of coffee in the distance, and a sugar bowl (for the coffee, obviously). Lastly, caramelised (burnt) apricots show up. Mouth: mellow, unctuous, this has the texture of virgin olive oil. It is sweeter on the tongue than the nose suggested, with mint drops and sweetened milk. The flowers have become a sauce made of petals, thick, fragrant, and served on pancakes. That flower-petal sauce provides a discreet bitterness that works a treat as a counterbalance for the sweetness. Finish: mellow again, even if it eventually warms up the soul. There are more mint drops and mint cake than before. A certain sweetness remains, madeleines, frangipane tartlets and Macha-tea doughnuts, but all in all, it is very much a (gently) minty finish. Maybe a dollop of hazelnut paste waves from afar, holding a couple of cut buttercups. Very nice, though it may just lack a bit of oomph. 8/10

12/10/2021 Croftengea

Croftengea 13yo 2007/2020 (52.2%, CWC The Electric Coo Series, Hogshead): nose: there is no shortage of wine influence, here. Sherry vinegar, solera casks and, at a push, shy vermouth. Behind that one can find earthier tones; dirt tracks and Cajun spices (but not the trademark chicken). Something is vaguely reminiscent of a stoup, which is to say: stagnant water in a weathered marble basin. There are hints of fruit, heirloom apples (Egremont Russet) and pears (Marie-Louise), and, later on, notes of detergent -- hand wash or washing-up liquid, but apple-scented, in any case. The second nose sees its fair share of drying clay pots, before they go into the oven. Watercolour eventually enters the scene too. Mouth: the apple backbone is still very noticeable, as is a Calvados-like, warming strength. Despite looking hard for peat, there is hardly any to find, here. It retains a certain earthiness, I suppose, yet it is more apples, picked up from the dusty orchard floor than mud cakes. It is surprisingly fruity, in fact. The second sip is waxier (at least in texture), not quite plasticine-like, yet firmer and more malleable than hazelnut paste. Every sip increases the wine-y impression, though it is a white wine, now; white Port, Fino sherry, Jurançon wine. Finish: after an initially-fruity punch (apples again), shy earth radiates from the stomach up. The upper lip is left numb for a while too, and that is the signal: the taste buds suddenly pick up a pronounced bitterness of the kind that comes with unripe hazelnuts. In the long run, Croftengea's trademark chicken shows up; it is not particularly roasted, however: it is more of a bland breast-y sort of impression. Said chicken is served with a dried-apricot patty and a green-hazelnut sauce. Odd, yet it sort of works. The finish, like the palate, seems to turn more wine-y with each sip. Not bad, though it could become tiring. Well, there appears to be even less peat in this today than there was the first time. That aside, it seems a different whisky altogether. 7/10

11/10/2021 Mortlach

Mortlach 22yo d.1975 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#6257): nose: it smells like a spring morning, with lily of the valley, honeysuckle and morning dew. A nose that is remarkably vibrant, lively and fresh. It also showcases minty almond dragées, green-grape juice and a drop of hazelnut oil. The floral scents keep growing, and see kerria Japonica added into the mix, as well as jasmine, hydrangea, daffodil and iris. At the far end, there seems to be a pinch of coffee grounds too, although it is very timid. The second nose brings more fruits to the table -- is it plums? Peaches? Nectarines? Apricots? It is that family, at any rate, -- as well as a delicate note of wood -- hazelnut paste, lichen on stave -- and something more mineral -- moss-covered slate. The hazelnut paste becomes dominant as one tilts the glass. Lastly, Kaffir lime leaves rock up as an afterthought. Mouth: fresh, soft and flowery on the tongue too, this has a lovely vinaigrette with enough oil to almost-entirely conceal the acidity. In fact, it is pretty oily in texture, with walnut oil now getting the better of the flowery aspect. Oh! it still has flowers, mind. It seems more stem-forward™ than the nose was, though. Daffodil stems, jasmine stems... There is also something plummy; plum juice, made with unripe plums. The second sip is perhaps grassier. It is juicy grass, to be sure, and lemongrass. It ends up developing a citrus quality, over time, with a lime-and-calamansi blend, unless it is bergamot... Yes! Bergamot it is. Finish: the balance is ideal for a breakfast dram: this is soft, elegant and fruity. The plums are swapped for peaches, here, even if they are not very ripe nor juicy either, and that peach is joined by celery stalks; refreshing, nutty and unexpected. Cedarwood joins the dance, yet it remains a secondary character. The whole leaves a chewy impression in the mouth, beside a gentle bitterness -- bergamot again. The chewy impression turns creamy over time, which makes for a pleasant, comforting ending. Beautiful. 9/10

04/10/2021 Lagavulin

Lagavulin Triple Matured 1991/2015 (59.9%, OB bottled especially to celebrate Fèis Ìle 2015, American Oak/Pedro Ximénez & Oak Puncheons, 3500b, b#991, L5079DQ000 50251395): nose: just like the Port Charlotte last week, this peaty, sherried beast feels much more to my liking than it did at the end of a line-up, a couple of weeks ago. It goes to show context is very important! The nose rolls out hot lingonberry compote, cold tobacco and ash, then suddenly becomes rather petrolic, showcasing marine fuel, kerosene, and the beach, after a black tide (or so I imagine, at least: never experienced a black tide, hopefully never will). Talking about the beach, it develops a soft coastal influence, with whelks, fishing nets and dark sands -- oh! yes, the fuel notes are still well present; if anything, they grow in intensity. To a point, it smells like a piece of chocolate cherry cake dunked into a bowl of diesel: the Oloroso has given this a touch of earthy chocolate and some juicy red-fruit coulis, but the strong, gasoline-like spirit has a stranglehold on them. Fifteen minutes in, the nose seems a notch dryer, with scorched earth and mud crust. The second nose adds crayon shavings to the equation, somewhat reinforcing that dryness, whilst  keeping in touch with its diesel-y profile. Water opens up the nose dramatically and gives it the elegance of an ancient bottling (OBE, in other words). Warm marmalade (henceforth known as warmalade), dusty boiler rooms and ship engines, lichen on corroded oil barrels and silt. What a pleasant surprise! Mouth: ooft! Is this big or what? It is a dry-peat fire, really -- lively, dry and hot. The lingonberry compote is now so hot it burns the palate (also, it could well be cranberry compote, after all), the whelks are steamed, then smoked (they are also gorged with petrol) and, quite frankly and despite the oily texture, the whole feels like chewing on tarry sand. The second sip suggests a tarry rope, covered in red-fruit jam (strawberry) and baked in the oven. It also reveals something more root-y that hints at liquorice. This mouth is fierce and concentrated like peppermint, even if the taste is not exactly the same. With water, the palate turns much fruitier, and we have sliced apricots, bathing in a jerry-can of diesel. There is also a drop of water from a week-old flower vase, but it is discreet. Finish: it is powerful, yet it is not the immediate slap in the throat one would have been entitled to expect. Instead, it seems velvety like warm corduroy on the way down. Once it hits the stomach, however, it radiates like a uranium bar, making the whole body warm and not a little fuzzy. Beside that feeling, what is surprising is the note of decaying vegetation that permeates the expected petrolic profile: here, we have all sorts of algae, rotting lichens, but also silt. This has stagnant water and peat bogs written all over its finish, which is strange, seeing as the tongue is left dry, throbbing for water. Seriously, with all that silt and vase water, the most accurate comparison I can make is with this whacky thing from Tyrone, but at twice the ABV. There is even smoky mint lozenges and hot embers, towards the death. Water swaps that for cold coffee (served in a clear brown glass bowl) and diesel -- lots of diesel. Finally, the silt returns, as do algae and dredging sediment, yet they are much more subtle in the reduced finish. It is no longer drying, on the other hand. The nose and palate benefitted from water; the finish, I am not so sure. Impressive. It feels much less monolithic, when trying it with a fresh palate. I can see this garnering high scores from aficionados of such a profile. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, OB)

01/10/2021 Highland Park

Highland Park 20yo d.1974 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#4329): nose: how pleasant is this mix of dunnage warehouse and autumn-morning undergrowth? It seems particularly fitting, on this grey and wet morning, brightened by a corner of blue sky that seems to hint at a clearer day. Anyway, we have chewy, artisanal, strawberry sweets, oily wood, crumbling away, a tiny drop of fish sauce (how quaint!), set honey, hardening in a jar, pollen and jasmine or lily-of-the-valley petals for shits and giggles. The decaying wood turns into an oiled (but dry) plank (a garden table, maybe), and the dunnage-warehouse clay floor turns into a mix of ash, smoky wood shavings and sawdust. The whole nose promises a warming and comforting experience. Mouth: old marmalade, left in a jar for years (or decades), and tainted by the oxidised tin lid -- that is right: there is something remotely metallic on the tongue. It meets expectations, so far: it is warming and comforting. The metal seems to grow, with copper coins and old pans entering the scene, and newly-faded flowers thrown onto a smoky campfire. the texture is a bit thin, perhaps, and a certain bitterness sets in that may not be for everyone. Again: orange marmalade. It could even be apricot stone, in fact. In any case, it is a fruity bitterness. The smoke is very distant, ethereal, and hard to pin down. Maybe from a moss-covered-hazel-tree fire? Finish: mellow and dry, it seems almost not strong enough on the way down. Pretty soon thereafter, however, it comes back with a vengeance and radiates warmth throughout the upper digestive system. Warm military biscuit, coated with bitter marmalade (in more prosaic terms, one could say: "dry, cereal-y, bitter and sweet," but it would read less entertaining), shrouded in a very thin veil of smoke. Repeated sipping appears to make it fruitier, juicier, closer to apricot... stone! Yes, it remains softly bitter after all, and that grows closer to green hazel tree, this time. The finish also leaves the mouth as if coated in butter, although it would be a bitter butter, rather than a salty one. 8/10