30/03/2023 Glenburgower

Glenburgie 30yo 1983/2013 (51.5%, Signatory Vintage 30th Anniversary Waldhaus am See St. Moritz, C#9822, 164b): nose: old, hardened honey, slatted racks, covered in honey, and pollen, dropped on cedarwood sheets -- phwoar! A minute in, flowers storm the scene, buttercups, daffodils, daisies, and chamomile... In fact, it morphs into a flowery powerhouse, almost to the point of becoming a flower-scented soap bar. However, just as it is about to reach that point, it turns around, and unexpectedly gives wood varnish -- varnished birch wood planks. And then, it start from the beginning again, though the honey-pollen side is now fleeting only, while the flowery side is augmented with cosmetic powders of sorts. The second nose seems somewhat greener, with tobacco leaves, leafy laurel, and rocket, or watercress at room temperature. That is supplemented by a dollop of liquid hand soap that is anything but bothering, according to this taster. That changes again with subsequent sips to display chicory infusion. Mouth: the palate has a schizophrenic honeyed-woody personality -- imagine honey spread onto a wooden plank, sprinkled with sawdust. Said wood imparts a distinct spiciness (ginger, asafoetida) that piques one's interest. Swirling the whisky around the mouth helps buckwheat honey come out, alongside Suc des Vosges. The second sip seems sweeter, with liquid honey, crushed pine needles, and, again, Suc des Vosges sweets. The mood is increasingly alpine. Finish: it is grand, here, with an assertive-not-aggressive kick, wood spices, the heat of a pine bonfire, and warm pollen. It is lacking sweetness to call any honey, sadly, and, actually, the soft bitterness of bay leaves settles in, after a minute. It is a long finish alright, one that produces a warm, fuzzy feeling, akin to a bowl of hot soup, or a glass of wheat beer on a summer day. What is this? Ash? Yes! Cigar ash, and dried cigar leaves. The second gulp is sweeter too: sweets appear, borderline minty, now. The spices from earlier are now reduced to crushed green cardamom and cedarwood-sheet splinters. Nice. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, OB)

Inchgower 12yo b.1991 (59%, James MacArthur Fine Malt Selection exclusive to The Mini Bottle Club (U.K.), C#10661, 180b): nose: incredibly shy, at 59%; there is barely any alcohol, even. With a bit of time and concentration, we end up seeing alcohol-soaked corks, cask bungs, and pure-alcohol vapours. At a push, we may find a bit of wood, in a blink-and-you-miss-it way. Perhaps unripe stone fruits that smell of stone, not of fruit. We also have hazelnut shells, an a tiny drop of nail-varnish remover. How long was this in a cask for? The second nose is a little more talkative, introducing citrus juice (lime or lemon), splashed onto a wooden door. We have cotton pads too, which, of course, does little to render this more boisterous!  A mere drop of water transforms this into a walk on the pier; sea breeze, sea spray, mixed with the fumes from the wood fires in the nearby settlement. Maybe bone-dry lime peels too, though that may just be suggestion. There is clearly some smoke, on the other hand; it even grows more obvious, over time. Mouth: warm, not hot, it feels astonishingly mellow, a texture of apricot juice, a gentle, as-yet-unidentified fruitiness, and some nuts. With little surprise, it grows in power with time, and, after thirty seconds, ends up boiler hot. In parallel, the afore-mentioned nuttiness also grows more pronounced, and it brings along a bitterer touch. Nutty custard, we will call it, whether that is hazelnuts or almonds. The second sip adds wood -- a log pile, stored in a shed, dry, waiting to be burnt. Citrus grows in presence, candied lime peels, pomelo zest. Paying close attention helps detect a vague saltiness, brine or sea spray, bolder as the citrus rises. Water makes this fresher, and distinctly saltier too: it loses none of its liveliness -- in fact, it gains some. It is remarkably saltier, now, full of sea spray, and has a serving of dried kelp too. Finish: so easy to swallow it is hard to believe this is really 59%. The bitterness from the palate is well present, here, and, after an initial acidity has given way, propels a mix of vine leaves, almond skins, a hazelnut-skin broth, and flower stems to the fore. All that is blended together with a hand blender, and brought to a simmer. The result joins warm hazelnut custard, and the whole is topped with a dash of lime juice. The finish too, repeated sipping makes more citrus-y, and, if it is not quite a tequila shot, it does head towards a slice of lime and a lick of salt. Against all odds, the finish is sweeter with a drop of water. We are now sipping a delicious lime water, citrus-y, sweetened, with only a pinch of salt to make sure we are thirsty enough to order another one. Well, here is a comfy dram that is positively transformed by water! 8/10

28/03/2023 Dalwhinnie

If it feels like we had this not three days ago, it is because we had.

Dalwhinnie d.1963 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice, b. early 1980s): entering a artisan carpenter's workshop. Here are all sorts of wood glues, wood oils, wood stains, wood lacquers, all blended, all fairly subdued, interwoven with planks, made of many types of different woods. It starts with mahogany, zooms past oak, beech and birch, and lands on pine chipboards. After a minute, we see darkened orange rinds emerge, as well as venison or reindeer sausage -- salty, game-y, and autumnal. Hazelnut saucisson, roasted chestnuts, and the most delicate drop of fortified wine. There is something floral in there too, cosmetic powder, more than actual petals. Unless it is birch sawdust? The second nose is in the same vein, yet it sees the addition of faded oilcloths and a decades-old pot-pourri of meadow flowers, mixed peel, and cinnamon sticks. It loses steam in the long run, unfortunately. Mouth: distinguished. Wood lacquer, fruit stones, cured orange rinds, and a dash of wood stain. At a mere 40%, it feels just right, as it allows flavours to converse, instead of smothering them with alcohol. We are really back at the carpenter's; if it is not plank-y in a bad way, it certainly is full of woody tones. Bookshelves, dusty stained chipboards, and timid ink impart a certain bitterness. The second sip puts the stress on citrus peel, a pronounced fruitiness overcomes most of the wood, and the bitterness from earlier turns into that of said peels. Next, we have Kaffir lime leaves, a white-hot empty mocha pot... and still a lick of wood, in the background, either an old bookshelf, or cedarwood sheets. Shards of cassia bark pay a late visit too. Finish: it feels a logical continuation, after the nose and the palate, insofar as it carries on the wood theme, yet it is lifted by a (slightly) more-pronounced fruitiness; blush orange, dried pink-grapefruit peels, cured-mandarine and -clementine peels, caramelised in a pan, with cinnamon, a few grains of ginger powder, and a twist of the nutmeg mill. It seems to have a general profile that is a crossing between Glühwein and Lemsip, a blend of fruits and spices that works remarkably well. The second sip has a stronger alcohol kick, yet it quickly resumes the mixed-peel story, with candied orange, mandarine, and pomelo peels, sweet, bitter, and, well, fruity. Something keeps that fruit a bit darker than if it were strictly mixed peel, though. Maybe cordial? Some kind of berry liqueur? It adds a soft, earthy, almost toasted twist to this finish. Glorious. Even better than the other day. 9/10

25/03/2023 Beat the clock

The clocks go forward, overnight. Let us have one last tasting prior.

Cavalier66, OB, JS and I meet for the occasion. Cavalier66 is first on site, and rushes to eat the food he brought. Once again, he came with an empty stomach.

...and a rucksack full of cheeses!
(Manchego, Wigmore, Oxonlees Cheddar, quince paste, Old Roan)

...with artisanal bread

The Old Man of Huy presents: Klockdhu

Knockdhu d.1974 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice, b. mid-1980s): Gordon & MacPhail bottled a 10yo and an 11yo from 1974 with this livery. Since they did not print the age on the miniatures, it is impossible to know which one this is. Nose: OME, without surprise, i.e. brine and pickled onions. "If only it was cask strength," says Cavalier66, bracing for my blaming his Frenchitude. Rhubarb leaves, then, a few minutes in, dried cow dung, very vivid. It becomes fresher over time, with chlorophyll, and various leaves. With the second nose comes a musky slap, as well as menthol cigarettes. Mouth: a bit of (elephant) dung, yet that goes away (Cavalier66). It is prickly and punchy (Cavalier66). Ooft! Yes, it is prickly indeed, and peppery. Pink peppercorns, scorched earth, dried chilli flakes. This really has more oomph that any of us expected. The second sip is even more prickly, it that is possible, fresh and ripe with prickly pear, treading onto cactus territory. Finish: shortish, though here is a clear kick of chlorophyll-laden toffee, peppercorns, perhaps spearmint, and stem ginger. A light nuttiness develops upon further sipping, and it feels longer, but it stays fairly constant with the first impression, on the whole. Cassia bark and menthol are here too. I had low expectations for this one, but it is surprisingly good. 7/10

The soundtrack: The Marian Consort, Rory McCleery, The Illyria Consort, Bojan Čičić - Adriatic Voyage - Seventheen-Century Music From Venice To Dalmatia

tOMoH: "Musky."
Cavalier66: "You mean deer piss?"
all: "?"
Cavalier66: "Well, that's what musk is, isn't it? Deer piss. Or maybe I'm bullshitting."
tOMoH: "Deer piss, bull shit... You're a champion of the animal kingdom, aren't you? And you said a minute ago you knew everything about elephant dung too..."

JS presents: Dial-uaine

Dailuaine 16yo (43%, OB, L0343LS000 00039534, b. 2010): nose: "perfect drinking strength" (Cavalier66), hints of coal gas, wood-fire smoke, then strawberry bubble gum. Mouth: mellow, it has wood and edible-paper sheets, strawberry sweets. The second sip has dark-brown sugar. Finish: some mellow red wine, paper paste, cinnamon buns. Always a safe bet, this. Full notes here. 8/10

More of that wonderful Iberian acorn salchichon Admiracion (thanks CT)

The soundtrack: The Marian Consort - Pater Peccavi - Music Of Lamentation From Renaissance Portugal

OB: "It smelled of... misuse of public money, to be honest."
Cavalier66: "I thought you were going to say 'poo'."
JS: "Yeah, let's bring it back to poo."

The Old Man of Huy presents: dyslexic Spanish painter Salvador Daliwhnnie

 (you know...)

Dalwhinnie d.1963 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice, b. early 1980s): same story here: an 18yo and a 20yo exist. Go figure which one this is. Nose: lovely wood paste, with a dollop of mint cream for good measure. Then, we have older wood, old bookshelves, log piles, in which the logs are starting to decompose. Over time, a whiff of citrus appears, in amongst the wood spices (galangal shavings). Nosing deeper, poached and caramelised peaches show up, as one tilts the glass. Mouth: pollen, toasted honey. Cavalier66 calls it oily, whilst I find it quite a bit of toffee (Quality Street's Toffee Penny). It feels almost fizzy, not far from a lemonade. Yes, the citrus comes out upon second sip, shaddock, pomelo, or soft lime. Finish: big, honeyed, caramel-y, it also has a toasted touch of nigella seeds or coffee grounds, which gives a delicate bitterness that will prevent a higher score. Still, great old Dalwhinnie, and it is always a treat to try a Classic Malt bottled by an independent. 8/10

Cavalier66 explains that, one of the most important times in British culture is: Tea(-ninich) time

Teaninich 1973/2012 (41.8%, Malts of Scotland, Bourbon Hogshead, C#MoS13011, 96b): nose: acacia honey (Cavalier66, quick to add the Greek pronunciation), dark honey indeed (mountain pines), candied apricots, poached peaches, a spoonful of fruity custard, vanilla-ed fudge, and a small wood influence too. A grassy note unfolds on the second nose. Mouth: marzipan (JS), lemon sponge cake with a crunchy, white-sugar frosting. Something a tad bitter rocks up, dried lemon peels, or raw vanilla sticks, blended with liquorice-root shavings. Finish: diluted pineapple juice (Cavalier66), some perfume (OB). It is candied fruit and crystallised citrus all round, as far as I can tell. Again, a soft bitterness is present, yet it is far from being a nuisance. I love this. More than my co-tasters, in fact. 9/10

The soundtrack: The Old Man of Huy - Beat The Clock

The Old Man of Huy presents: within an inch of the hour

Inchgower 20yo 1990/2011 (46%, Angus Dundee for The Whisky Castle Cask Collection No. 15, American Oak Cask, C#6987, 264b): I skip this. I am falling behind already. My companions seem to enjoy it thoroughly -- more than anticipated. It fills me with joy. They detect Opal Fruits, Starburst (Cavalier66), which, we find out, is the British equivalent to Sugus. Astonishingly, OB does not know Sugus. Kids of today. Cavalier66 claims we are heading towards Irish territory. My full notes are here.

Time to attack the homemade kouign aman that OB brought (this time, he did not forget it).

For the uninitiated, this is a butter cake, with butter
and a smidgeon of butter

OB explains that Amrut made the first triple-distilled Indian single malt whisky, thereby beating everyone -- and the clock -- in the race to achieve that.

Amrut Triparva b.2020 (50%, OB imported by La Maison du Whisky, B#1): nose: a fruit bomb, chock full of mangoes, and fruity esters in general. Suddenly, something hugely creamy takes over, and I mean dairy cream, not crushed-mango creamy. It becomes quite heady, and goes from high-strength alcohol to Virginia tobacco. Caramel joins the band, just before mango resumes the lead singing. I could nose this for hours! There is a dash of a horseradish-style sauce, after a while, chalkier than said sauce. Mouth: after a neutral attack that procures little in the way of flavours, this grows in sheer strength, before exploding into a symphony of juicy fruits (chiefly mango and overripe peach), but also chocolate milk. The second sip is hotter, and warms up the tip of the tongue pretty nicely. It is still mango-y, yet that now supports oily tobacco, some of it lit -- gentle blonde pipe tobacco. Further on, we meet lychee shells, and more and more mango. Phwoar! Finish: big, it now presents grated fresh ginger, mango skins, balls of hair set on fire, lychee thrown into the fire. Really enjoying this! 9/10

OB: "What do you think about, when you're kite-surfing?"
Cavalier66: "Eternity lasts a long time. Especially towards the end."

OB bought the next dram from the Green Welly Stop. He had food poisoning the next day, and rushed back to Edinburgh to return to London. In other words, he had to beat the clock to catch a train.

Old Pulteney 14yo 2006/2021 (51.9%, OB exclusive to TyndrumWhisky.com, ex-Bourbon American Oak Barrel, C#1414, 264b, b#161): "modern whisky" (cavalier66). Nose: salty and full of toffee, here are custard and other Bourbon-cask markers. Cavalier66 finds orchard fruits, whereas I only find compote and Sugus sweets with a pinch of salt, vanilla-laced fudge, and a drop of pomelo juice. Mouth: similar to the nose, the mellow custard of the palate is augmented with some green-citrus acidity, and lots of sugar. It is fairly hot and spicy too, with more lemongrass than ginger. The custard is sprinkled with chilli flakes, or chilli-infused oil. There is also a vague taste of citrus-y seaweed -- yes: it is salty. Finish: long, yet soft, sweet and lush, creamy, this has custard written all over it, and the now-compulsory citrus-juice drop (pomelo, shaddock). Nice job. 8/10

Cavalier66: "Good wood management."
OB: "How do you manage your wood?"
tOMoH: "This conversation is taking a turn for the unexpected."
Cavalier66: "I outsource the management. You cannot manage your wood yourself."

The soundtrack: Sparks - Plagiarism

Cavalier66 reminds us that the clocks go forward Tormorrow, which means we will have Tormore day time in the evening.

Tormore 1988/2012 (55.4%, Malts of Scotland, Sherry Butt, C#MoS12043, 96b): nose: woody, earthy, this sports nail lacquer, mahogany cabinets, and woodworm. This is strangely both fruity (dried dates) and sharp (hints of turpentine). It remains pretty earthy, though. The second nose brings about liquorice allsorts. Mouth: unexpectedly rubbery, we see bicycle inner-tubes, mixed with earth and juicy dark-ish fruits (elderberry, dates, membrillo). The second sip has mentholated talcum powder, pressed elderberry, walnut oil and raspberry vinegar. Finish: long, distinctly sherried, but neither overly sweet nor earthy. Mahogany lacquer, squashed dates, and chocolate-coated strawberries. 7/10

JS notices (late, but first of us) that Cavalier66 is wearing a shirt with a music sheet printed on it -- a music sheet without a time signature, Cavalier66 mischievously points out

JS presents: Spring forward, fall Bank

Springbank 21yo 1995/2017 (54.7%, The Greedy Angels for Bas Veenendaal, Ivor Johnstone, Ian Park, Refill Bourbon Hogshead, 288b): nose: funk (Cavalier66), exuberant fruit (JS), cereals, hay dust, quite a bit of fruit indeed. Of course, we have the trademark Springbank farmyard scents too. A dash of white spirit, or wood stain, provides a gentle kick up the nose, which I do not remember from our previous encounters. Mouth: mineral and a half, here are slate and limestone in a ploughed field. There remains some fruit too, fresh berries, mostly. Finish: never-ending, it displays the same minerality, perhaps even more pronounced, now; gooseberry coulis on slate, or cranberries, crushed under a block of limestone. Full notes for this lovely drop are here. 9/10

Cavalier66 departs.

The Old Man of Huy presents a whisky within an inch of the hour (yes, it is the second time today -- get over it)

Inchgower 12yo b.1991 (59%, James MacArthur Fine Malt Selection exclusive to The Mini Bottle Club (U.K.), C#10661, 180b): we extrapolate the cask number from the big bottle with the same ABV. Nose: well, the OME is certainly most pronounced on this one. Cardboard, pickled herring, then brine, rollmops, green olives, crushed chalk, mixed with vanilla sugar. This is quite a ride, with an interesting dialogue between sweet and salty sides. It is hot, though. At least, it promises to be. The second nose almost burns the nostrils. Mouth: woah! It is rather austere on the tongue, chalky, salty. There is an underlying fruitiness, although it is not what drives this dram. Finish: long, drying, chalky. This is good. I will get back to it another time and focus on the company, tonight. 8/10

Next up are a Murray McDavid Living the Dram beer, matured in a whisky cask (thanks, BA), and a Side Project Beer:Barrel:Time (thanks, JS) that is as dark and heavy as a bowl of porridge made with coffee, instead of water or milk.

Living the Dram

Beer:Barrel:Time

Cantillon has the final, topical word
("Le temps ne respecte pas ce qui se fait sans lui")

Great times.

20/03/2023 Glen Grant

9.94 26yo Jam and Jerusalem (56.2%, SMWS Society Single Cask): nose: the welcoming scent of baked bread taken out of the oven, the bottom of its crust lovingly browned. That is soon joined by a tannic fruitiness (yup, wine cask), and sawn oak staves that have just been given a lick of wood stain. Deeper nosing plays an earthier score, with mushrooms in potting soil, gently arguing with baking (and baked) parchment, and (very) distant coffee grounds. We have crushed pine cones too, decaying on a forest floor, sprinkled with what could pass for dark-cherry juice, yet is too tart for that. Dark cherries mixed with cranberries, maybe? It smells warmer with every whiff, reinforcing the impression of a bakery oven. The second nose feels earthier, still, with elderberry cordial, dead leaves, and bicycle inner-tubes. At times, it makes me feel of aged Burgundy wine. A longer breathing time gives this a chance to push strawberries into the light (or the nostrils, rather). Mouth: half astringent, half luscious, it is quickly identifiable as a cherry-liqueur-filled, dark-chocolate praline, closer to Mon Chéri than Edle Tropfen. There is the bitterness of shell fruits (hazelnuts, Brazil nuts), and the velvety-syrupy texture of the associated liqueur. The second sip turns that on its head and introduces poached peaches, served with a hog roast. To say it is unexpected would be an understatement! Here is lingonberry compote too, piping hot, yet the peaches prevail, that may well be topped with a red-wine sauce. Earthy, softly tannic, fruity, and gorgeous. It is definitely cranberries, upon repeated sipping. Finish: chocolate praline through and through, augmented with liqueur. It is less clear here whether hazelnut, cherry, a combination of both, and/or something else, but it is brilliant. It is sweeter too, adding a bite of marzipan that mellows down the bitterness we felt on the tongue. Bitterness is still there, mind: it is an earthy-nutty thing, rather than anything unpleasant is all. Perhaps it is the Jerusalem artichokes hinted at by the name of this bottling. The second sip displays some spices, probably a little ginger, ground cloves, cinnamon sticks... Mulled wine? Ah! Go on, then. We may even spot oily Virginia tobacco, and, in the long run, lusher strawberries, likely coated in chocolate. Less in-your-face glazed cherries than the first time we had this. Braw all the same. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, OB)

17/03/2023 Jane & Patrick

Jane Doe 1989/2016 (48.2%, Malts of Scotland, C#MoS 16044, 159b): nose: phwoar! This is so lush. Minty custard, mellow as a pillow, soft peaches, puffy apricots, fluffy mangoes, a bunch of jasmine flowers. A minute in, it takes an unexpected turn and delivers tart berries: redcurrants, gooseberries, lingonberries, cranberries, and a lick of raspberry-wine nail varnish. Fruity alright, this! That all grows sweeter and thicker, obviously morphing into jams and compotes of all sorts Pear and cranberry jam springs to mind. Further in the back of the sinuses, we have a timid note of lichen and moss on zinc guttering, spongy. It brings a layer of complexity that is most welcome. Soon, we see autumn leaves too, forest soil, tree bark, and pineapple slices. Noyce! Tilting the glass helps push wood stain into the light. The second nose cranks up the apricots and peaches, and adds peeled walnuts and hazelnuts. That aside, I find a soft note of poitín that is rather fitting -- unless it is but my imagination? It becomes more and more ethereal, heady, almost mentholated, which is unusual for something at less than 50%. Mouth: nothing beats a naturally-low ABV, and here is a shiny illustration. It feels warm, not aggressive, and even less weak. The acidity hinted at on the nose (tart berries) is in full display, here, all tinned pineapple, unripe bergamot, and juicy pomelo. Bergamot brought its foliage to a fruit party, which is to say this has a mild bitterness too that will not spoil the fun. The second contact with the palate is like taking a sip of lime-and-orange juice, in which the peels have been soaking. That spells acidic and bitter in equal measure, fruity as a gin-and-lime-tonic, not sweet in the slightest. It is, in fact, borderline leafy, now, and some may find cucumber peels in amongst the citrus. Gone are the mangoes from the nose. Mangone. Finish: acidic, bitter and fruity, here is a very similar procession of tinned pineapple, unripe citrus, green bananas, and herbal custard. I cannot identify said herbs with certainty (chervil? Watercress? Spinach?), but they smoothly elevate this beyond what could otherwise have been just-another-fruity-Irish. Funnily enough, repeated sipping, if it raises the acidity and bitterness, also turns the fruity side louder. It is reminiscent of some cocktails: gin-and-tonic, mojito, Major Bailey. Astonishing how, despite being leafy-bitter, it leaves a creamy feel in the mouth, a mouth that salivates long after swallowing, regardless of how acidic the liquid was. Lastly, it whispers mango peels, to which a few tatters of fruit flesh still cling on. Excellent, if less impressive than upon our first encounter. Happy St. Patrick's Day! 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, elskling)

15/03/2023 Les Éditions Albyn Michel présentent...

Glen Albyn 25yo 1964/1989 (58%, Signatory Vintage, Oak Wood Cask, C#942+943, 1200b, b#1105): nose: lots of OME, mainly pickled cardboard, and quite a bit of engine oil. Let us give it some time to open up... This is better. Here, we have encaustic, walnut oil, polished dashboards, hints of metal, yet also plump mandarines and apricots. Further in the back, it has the unusual smell of velvet car seats from the 1980s, saturated with cold cigarette smoke, as well as cold cigarette ashes in the car's ashtray. It is not a smell I enjoy much in an automobile, but it sorts of works, here. Strangely enough, that is the profile that appears to become prominent, too. We have a dose of window-cleaning spray, the faded seats of a car from the 1980s (or 1970s), old walnut kernels, and still a lick of fruit, whether it is mandarines, or something more tropical, such as dragon fruit. Tilting the glass reveals hair gel and after-shave balm. The second nose is earthier; the cardboard has dissolved into a soil-like sludge that blends in with earth. In the background, still a gentle fruitiness. Come to think of it, this nose reminds me a bit of the fuzz inside the last incarnation of Douglas Laing's Old & Rare Platinum cases, and the first incarnation of Hunter Laing's. Grumpy tasters may find a dollop of shampoo. A drop of water does away with the car interior and cigarette smoke, and, instead, introduces banana sweets, as well as tame Parma Violets. There are even soap bars, now. They are fairly discreet, but present nonetheless. Mouth: the 58% are obvious, here -- they attack the roof of the mouth vigorously. Aside the numbing alcohol, we have citrus peels, mixed with old cork bits, mould-covered oranges, Verdigris and lichen. The second sip is clearly sweeter: it delivers shovelfuls of light brown sugar. It also has hot metal spoons, and something that some may qualify as soapy -- not hand soap; rather dishwasher tablets, or detergent pouches, lemon-y, a tad crunchy. H₂O turns this into a fifty-fifty blend of yellow flower petals and soapy water, sadly. Finish: a heap of light brown sugar, inexorably taken over by mould. It is fruity, yet also bitter, even if it does not turn frankly metallic or plant-sap-like. Let us be lucid, that bitterness is not going to please everybody. It is a very long finish, by the way. The second sip reinforces the impression of detergent pouches for dishwashers, though that is now in conversation with blue oranges and mouldy sugar, rather than a solo act. Repeated sipping brings about some shampoo for delicate hair, albeit almost smothered by light brown sugar. Water applies a wide blanket of daffodil or tulip petals on the whole, augmented by a pinch of sugar. I really liked this one's originality. Others will hate it without a doubt. 7/10

13/03/2023 Bimber

Bimber 2019/2022 The 1st Peated (54.1%, OB Legacy Founder, ex-Bourbon American Oak Cask, 1140b): nose: an interesting mix of black ink, hot volcanic sands, stagnant water, peat embers, and strong alcohol that, despite being virtually odourless (as pure alcohol is), is strong enough to muzzle everything else. A couple of minutes of breathing unlock petrol, tar, earthy wax, and what comes close to wild mushrooms. Next are purple inflatable balloons, heated gum, pencil erasers by the radiator, silt, drained, dried, and pressed into a modelling clay. We also have pine logs and resin loaves, alongside spongy peat bricks, and chewy dried-fruit slices. The second nose has gooey Black Forest gâteau, gooey brownie, with a red-berry coulis on top. Some cassia bark too, and a pinch of ground cloves. The peaty side seems to take a back seat, now, though it is still there. It even turns a little farm-y, in the long run, with farmland and the associated muddy paths. Subdued, though. Water really opens it up: it is borderline shouty and fragrant, in a white-wine way (Silvaner). The thing is: it is not bad, but I am not convinced it is an improvement. Mouth: well, it bites. Considering the robust ABV, it is relatively tame, but yes, it bites a bit. Vase water, a drop of nail varnish, vanilla extract, a dollop of chewy plasticine, and red fruits, crushed in peat, as if trampled with the heel. The second sip is juicier; prunes, fresh dates, blowtorched orange segments and skin, and cordial. Over time, lychees rock up, squashed and blended with nectarine, peach, and grape juices, fruity, earthy, and silky in texture. Unexpectedly, even a tiny amount of water is sufficient to drown this. It carries on with the juicy flavours, yet renders the palate too thin and too obviously diluted (as in: watery). At the same time, it also allows dark, greasy peat to emerge, to some degree. Finish: velvety for a minute, the finish finally lets on just how strong and youthful this is. Oh! there is nothing destructive; just a very obvious heat, and a length that comes with it. This may well be the solution to the energy-price crisis that affects large parts of the world, right now. Humour aside, the flavours are as expected: earthy, clay-like, with sphagnum moss and peat bogs, chewy, with modelling clay and plasticine, mildly hydro-carbonated (tarry). Also, there are silt, lichens, and ground peach stones. All in all, a comforting drop. Repeated quaffing brings about a juicy side, and if it keeps biting, it does so with plenty of orange juice. Once again, the oranges taste as though they were roasted or blowtorched, yet they remain juicy -- a juice that is balanced by a charred note is all. A fleeting earthy-peaty note hops on the tongue, now and again, which is quite amusing. With water, the finish is much shorter, much more forgettable. Perhaps we witness the appearance of mentholated vanilla drops with a backing choir of vase water, and stagnant ponds, but, other than that, it feels thin. This is good, but careful with water. 7/10 (Thanks for the sample, GL)

08/03/2023 Dalmore

Dalmore 29yo 1989/2018 (51.1%, Cadenhead specially bottled for Cadenhead's Whisky Shop Odense, Bourbon Barrel, 162b): nose: wowee! What have we here? Quince paste, raspberry or gooseberry jelly, strawberry jam, royal jelly, beeswax, flooring wax, then waxy plums, wine-soaked nectarines, greengages... After a minute, dust from a dunnage warehouse joins the party, and there is a drop of nail varnish too. Beautiful! The second nose has burgundy-purple sweets, somewhere between Cola Bottles, Twin Cherries, and purple cuberdons. Later on, so waxy are the plums that they come close to oilskins and scented pencil erasers. Mouth: the attack is more acidic than anticipated. Soon, a mild bitterness rises too that makes me think of new wine-bottle cork, and a growing warmth that perfectly complements the underlying fruitiness. All the waxy plums and nectarines from the nose are here, plus papaya, and timid purple passion fruit. The second sip underlines the acidity: it is dry, borderline drying, at least temporarily, yet oh! so fruity, at the same time. Dark-tulip petals make a late appearance, sprinkled with beeswax. Further sips deliver a resinous kick, refreshing, softly bitter -- think: candied angelica and Valda cough drops: chewy, sweet, and green. The texture remains rather thick. Finish: erm... Perfection? The strength brings a pleasant warmth, glowing, not burning, and the fruity tide continues this far, with juicy plums, nectarines, greengages, pressed apricots, less papaya, but as much purple passion fruit as on the palate. It feels neither bitter, nor acidic, despite being both (it even has a remote butyric note), so balanced it is. Balanced by an undeniable-if-discreet sweetness. The second gulp has waxy-fruit flesh and fruity gum. And then, here too, resin and candied angelica add a fresh twist to that excellence. Holy fook! This is a work of art. Is it a little one-dimensional? Pernickety minds and grumpy souls may say so. They would be complaining for the sake of it. 9/10 (Thanks for the sample, WK)

04/03/2023 Minimax

It has proved difficult to find a date for a tasting on this side of the water, but here is the first one this year. Since there are four of us (OB, GL, JS and me), we go for an unrestrictive, miniatures-only theme.

The soundtrack: Pyroclastes - Danger Des Courants

OB warns that he will be late, because he has embarked on a little project. We will find out in a moment that said project is the baking of a kouign aman, a traditional cake from Britany. Unfortunately, we will also find out the following second that he left it at home. Ahem.

In the meantime, GL has the final drops of Clydeside 34mo (unknown ABV, cask sample, re-racked ex-Sherry Cask + ex-Bourbon Casks)

Finally, we start.

Work.

Enough for workaholics.

Five Sovereigns 8yo (70° Proof, J.W. Cameron & Co., b. ca 1970s) (tOMoH): nose: all sorts of fusty clay floors, damp dunnage warehouse, but also silt. Then, a soft fruity hue appears (mostly citrus peels). Further on, we have rich tobacco leaves, oily and chewy. Mouth: lukewarm marmalade, mixed peel, booze-infused blush-orange segments, and juicy caramel. Finish: it has that magic combination of ancient distillate and long bottle-aging. Could probably score higher. Full notes here. 7/10

GL produces Paul A. Young chocolates, which do not last very long.

The soundtrack: Peat & Diesel - Light My Byre

La Rouget de Lisle 8yo 2007/2016 (46%, OB, ex-Vin Jaune Burgundy Barrique, 144b) (tOMoH): nose: soft and fruity, ripe with custard and wax -- seal wax. Mouth: OB finds something unpleasantly perfume-y mid-palate (must be the taste of forgotten kouign aman), soon submerged by vin jaune, which makes it OK, he says. It is a lot drier and more tannic than I remembered it, with beer residue from an empty glass, yeast and strawberry. Finish: a lingering impression of having just sipped a stout. And there is orange wine too. Full notes here. 7/10

I have a the passion-fruit chocolate. Zmogue. So intense! I hope it will stand being followed by a whisky other than a 1960s Bowmore...

Eleuthera (46%, Compass Box, L290 306, b. ca 2001) (GL): nose: ashy apple juice, waxy-apple cider, if that makes sense. Then, we have putty, windows mastic, smoked citrus peels. This becomes ashier and ashier, though it still revels in waxy fruit. Mouth: pepper, Calvados, waxy apples, then a growing pile of ashes, dusty, drying, and a little burnt (no shit, Sherlock!) Burnt peach stone, yellowed parchment, roasted leather. Finish: long, ashy, burnt apple tree, burnt apple pips. It has that balance of fruit, ash, and burnt fruit tree. Love it! Repeated sipping gives the impression of a young eau-de-vie, which unfortunately makes it lose a point. 7/10

The soundtrack: 2022-10-09 Zanias @ HÖR, Berlin

Ledaig 23yo d.1995 (46.8%, C. Dully, Refill Hogshead, C#3636, 295b) (tOMoH): there is not enough for four, but I have had this not long ago. My companions share it between themselves. My notes are here.

With an impending case of the munchies, we have an excellent Iberian acorn salchichon  Admiracion (thanks CT)

Mortlach 12yo 1989/2001 (43%, Signatory Vintage, Sherry Butt, C#3647, 02/0150) (GL): the label reads this one was bottled in 2001, yet the bottling code on the back of the label says 2002. GL reckons it could be a rebottling of a full-size bottle. Those minis were given away at festivals around that time. No-one wanted them. Nose: gingerbread, loud and clear, cinnamon, ginger powder... Well, that would be gingerbread, then, eh? It is very solid and consistent; it does not deviate from the gingerbread super highway. After a bit, we have  a soft whiff of old sandals, or bare feet. And then, ginger and cinnamon come back with a lick of peppermint (think: brown Boules Magiques). The second nose is dusty and less interesting. Mouth: JS detects a gentle bitterness, while OB finds it cardboard-y and a bit flat. It does feel a little bit spent indeed. Irish-whiskey ice cream (JS). The second sip is fresh, juicy, with some grated ginger. Finish: fairly soft and tame, it showcases smoked meat (OB). Subsequent sips are more fruity, including the bitterness that I associate with unripe fruit. 7/10

vs.

76.69 12yo The Pipe-major takes a bath (60.1%, SMWS Society Single Cask) (GL): nose: banana (OB), artificial banana flavouring (OB). There is a pharmacy scent that I struggle to pin down. Yellow flowers, perfume, and a rubber bitterness that is almost metallic. Ha! I know! It has the smell of a freshly-opened 117.3 is what it is! Mouth: very green, with a pronounced bitterness of greasy-plant leaves. It also has many hints of tropical fruit, none ripe. I bet this will evolve dramatically in the open bottle -- for the better. Finish: wide, even huge, numbing, it gives away metallic daffodil petals. In the long run, we have custard, soft cakes, Jaffa style, but no chocolate. Lovely stuff. 8/10

The soundtrack: Until The End Of The World (Music From The Motion Picture Soundtrack)

Glenburgie 30yo 1983/2013 (51.5%, Signatory Vintage 30th Anniversary Waldhaus am See St. Moritz, C#9822, 164b) (OB): nose: this is darker, with a lick of wood, walnuts, chestnut purée, and rose-petal jelly. Yeah, earthy and softly fruity at the same time. The second nose has smoked Turkish delights and faded vine leaves. Mouth: it has a clear alcohol kick that does not entirely obfuscate a distinct juiciness. Fruity, jammy 'burgie the way I like them. We see a pinch of white pepper and sawdust. Yes: wood grows with each sip. It is rather acidic too. Finish: mulch, and unripe pineapple peel. We have more and more wood as it goes on, but it stays within the limits of what is acceptable. Long, warming, fruity, and, well, woody, to a point. 8/10

GL: "So far, I've really enjoyed all the ones I tried."
JS: "The chocolates, or the whiskies?"
GL: "Yeah."

121.31 9yo Sweet, with a lively lemon tingle (57.8%, SMWS Society Single Cask) (GL): nose: that same 117.3 leafy, metallic note, heady, and promising to be fruity, though not quite yet. This one has hints of solvents too. Mouth: strong, peppery custard. It goes from white pepper to red chilli pepper, to green pepper to rose-petal jelly in seconds. It is spectacular, considering the age, and very good full stop. Leafy flowers grow and grow. Finish: mellow-ish, with forsythia, kerria japonica, all bathing in thick custard, sprinkled with sage. Very convincing. The thing with Arran is that they are all at least OK (once one looks past the dodgy finishes of the early years). 8/10

The soundtrack: Pixies - Death To The Pixies

Glen Lochy 14yo (50%, Burn Stewart Distillers specially selected for The Whisky Shop The Select Hogshead, Sherry Casks) (tOMoH): nose: it starts off gravel-y, with shy dry grapes, then develops cork and earthy tones. Mouth: yes, it is dry, a bit austere, full of gravel, and challenging like a super-dry white wine. Finish: ashy, dry, bitter, not unlike licking limestone. Full notes here. 7/10

St. Magdalene 21yo 1982/2003 (56.5%, Hart Brothers Finest Collection) (OB): nose: oh! Here is another austere number. Flint, old newspapers, dusty cardboard, and modelling clay, or malleable wax. Hot sands, Verdigris, peach stones, chalk, lichen on stave -- oh! yes, these staves are oozing boooze, now. Phwoar! It becomes more luscious when tilting the glass, but also gives dusty dry-sausage casing. Mouth: melted plastic, plant sap,  a dash of crayon shavings, calcium-laden mineral water (Volvic or Hepar). It is also very bold -- intimidatingly so. The second sip has crushed mussel shells (yes, it is vaguely maritime, and certainly salty), chalk, and crushed leeks. Finish: it is like licking sandstone, but not only; here are leeks, crushed with a pestle and mortar. Quite a drying finish, with dried lichen and Verdigris. It turns more welcoming, over time, with hot marmalade stuck to the bottom of the cauldron (and let us be clear: it is the cast-iron cauldron that sticks out). I love this. 9/10

The soundtrack: various tracks by Holly Golightly and Blonde Redhead

JS makes salted popcorn.

9.94 26yo Jam and Jerusalem (56.2%, SMWS Society Single Cask) (OB): nose: hard to tell, since we just landed some, but I would swear this smells of popcorn. Underneath that is a good old Glen Grant, packed with orchard fruits, and some late chocolate. Mouth: glazed cherries! This has so much of that it is insane. And it is so clear, too! The second sip is full-on eau-de-vie, more Armagnac or Kirsch (obviously) than, say, Calvados. That eau-de-vie is more and more pronounced. Finish: a classy, warming specimen. I am not really taking good notes, too busy enjoying the bantz. 8/10

tOMoH: "GL, I can pull out four glasses, and you have them in your own time. I know you have a train to catch. They are also all yours, bar the Strathclyde, so you need to have that one."
GL: "I can leave the Bimber behind..."
JS: "You don't want to try it?"
GL: "It's peated. I don't drink peat. Also, I've already tried it, so..."
tOMoH: "Well, fuck you, then."

30.60 19yo A bench-mark (57.2%, SMWS Society Single Cask) (GL): nose this has some chocolate, dark caramel, chicory infusion. It is a bit buttery, but not too much. Again, I detect quite a bit of popcorn, which is obviously because we just had some. Later on, we find a softly herbal note, though not sure which herb -- oregano? Mouth: treacle, sticky toffee pudding, chocolate miso tart, which is to say it is savoury, as well as bitterly chocolate-y. Pear soup, chocolate chilli con carne. The second sip is more acidic and more buttery. Happily, it is not rancid butter by any stretch of the imagination. It develops a berry paste, augmented with liqueur of the same, at some point. Finish: long, never-ending, it adds a sprinkle of herbs (tarragon?) to dark-chocolate tart. It remains savoury and-a-half, which still suggests miso. Vaguely-earthy raisins become more and more obvious, sweeter and sweeter, joined by dried dates and figs. Wow. Lovely. 8/10

The soundtrack: Linkin Park / Jay-Z - Numb / Encore

The soundtrack: Tommee Profitt - In The End (Instrumental)

3.160 10yo Islay beach scene (59.9%, SMWS Society Single Cask) (GL): nose: what? No peat? In a recent Bowmore? "There is some," say my co-tasters. It is closer to cork and hevea brasiliensis to me. At last, I detect a faint peat; it is distant mossy peat bogs, with virtually no smoke. On the other hand, here is a bunch of flowers in mud. The second nose has muddy mulch and silt. Mouth: very warming, it dishes out peat fire and tons of juicy oranges. In fact, sweetish citrus becomes so prominent that it is close to limoncello. A pinch of sage to balance that and keep it interesting, something to make it almost metallic. Finish: more ember-like burnt peat flirts with roasted orange peels, dried kelp doused in sweet citrus, bergamot juice and the fruit's foliage. What an amazing young Bowmore! A little more complexity, and it would score even higher. 8/10

OB: "The Strathclyde is clearly stronger than the rest we had so far. I don't know how strong the Bowmore was, but..."
JS: "59.9%."
OB: "Really? Well, perhaps I've become numb."

(If you did not chuckle, let me spell it out: OB just intentionally quoted a song he had never heard before.)

Strathclyde 13yo 2001/2014 (64.4%, Chivas Brothers Cask Strength Editions, B#ST 13 002) (JS): not a miniature, but a smallish bottle on its last leg. Now or never! Coconut, custard, nail varnish, and fierce ginger. This still does it for me. My full notes are here. 8/10

The soundtrack: 2019-12-03 - Zanias @ HÖR, Berlin

GL departs. He leaves his Bimber behind, which I decide to have another day.

The soundtrack: Pet Shop Boys - Discography (The Complete Singles Collection)

OB pulls out a bonus dram from his hat. Well, from his rucksack.

Lochindaal 13yo 2007/2021 (56.9%, Bramble Whisky Co, Sauternes Cask, 292b, b#243) (OB): another full-size bottle, "the one that required the minimum effort to find," says OB. Nose: phwoar! If one thing was relevant at this point of the tasting, it is this. It is very, very farm-y, with a soft maritime side to boot. That spells brine over mud and ploughed fields, and hay. Mind you, we also have tobacco, dark-chocolate praline, ganache, with crushed dried strawberry slices. Then, it is pressed mouldy bread, forming a patty-like concoction. Mouth: ink! Squid ink, to be precise, accompanied by sea rocks warmed by the sun, and jet-black algae. But then, it is also rather juicy, part petrol, part fruit juice; part black ink, part linseed oil. It retains a hay-like quality on the tip of the tongue, perhaps porridge, and some slices of dried raspberry, now, meddling with rubber boot soles trampling mud. Finish: inky earth, black-tide sands, mudflats, and crushed mussel shells. Again!? This is the second dram today in which I find that note... It has quite a bit of horsepower, and it feels fairly drying, in the long run, with something approaching peppermint. It is not quite rubbery (no boot sole here), but earthy and drying, yes. Even though it is not as drying as black cumin, it is not that far off. I am convinced. 8/10

Epic.