30/09/2024 Preparing for Islay

Bowmore 16yo 1990/2006 (53.8%, OB Limited Edition, Sherry Casks): final leftover from the tasting last month. Nose: extremely caramel-y, this has fudge, sticky toffee pudding, melted Toffee Penny (the flat one in a box of Quality Street), and an underlying earthy current -- potting soil, tagete planters. That then proceeds towards dark drinks, cola, Dr. Pepper, Chinotto, or some kind of root beer. It is all flat, to be clear, but root-y nonetheless. Slowly, like the tranquil force it is, a gentle peat smoke rises, earthy, clay-like, a mix of plasticine and scorched earth. At times, it takes on fleeting farm-y accents, muddy countryside paths and ploughed fields, as well as maritime notes of dried kelp and fishing nets. The second nose has all sorts of gardening waste: dark-green cut grass and cut branches of sorts, but also wilted spinach and hazel growing in silt. Mouth: smoked violet boiled sweets, loud and clear. As usual, it does not bother tOMoH, but he can imagine others frowning. Chewing pushes earth forward, scorched earth, to be precise, and cooling embers. They remain in the wake of that trailblazing violet, however. It is good to see said violet smoked -- keeps it original. The second sip has candied-angelica shavings, spent green-tea leaves, smoked-mint kulfi, and lemon marmalade covered in dried sage. Violet sweets in tow, it goes without saying. Finish: we have embers and charred oak branches that were once covered in lush-green lichen. The second gulp has a slight green bitterness, yet it remains mostly fresh and smoky. Picture a mint plant growing in an ashy soil, whether it is added as fertiliser, or volcanic ash rained over it. The aftertaste brings us back to violet, and it is now bitter as the flower, rather than the boiled sweets of the same name. Further sips come down to a minty, scorched-earth landscape in which ash and violet boiled sweets are less prominent. 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, CB)

Caol Ila 29yo d.1991 (48.9%, Cask Sample, Bourbon Hogshead): this is the last of the plastic samples. Poor WhiskyLovingPianist had more, and they were in worse shape. Ours have suffered no obvious tainting. Phew! Nose: bone-dry shrubs and cut branches, on which the dead leaves have turned dark brown, crackling on a garden fire, by which fishing nets are hung out to dry. Beside that is a bowl of vanilla custard, augmented with a dollop of chocolate pudding. It also has a fleeting note of leather. A few minutes later, smoked gingerbread overtakes all that, supported by a pile of logs that have been sitting by the fireplace for several months and are therefore well dry and toasted. Further nosing reveals smoked bottom feeders, more crayfish than a saltwater type. The detective mind will detect smoked preserved lemons, but they do not stand out. Time, however, solidifies that citrus impression with smoked oranges and tangerines. Indeed, lemon becomes a softer, sweeter type of citrus in the space of five minutes. That citrus helps push an earthier, muddier note to the fore. The second nose has sea water in a rockpool, sandy, salty, briny to an extent. Soon, the citrus fruits return, smoked and rolled in mud. Perhaps there is an oilskin in there somewhere, well weathered. Later on, unripe pineapple rocks up, gently smoked. Mouth: soft and gentle, a cushion of tangerine or mandarine, it takes only a little chewing to show its strength: smoked paprika, smoked saffron, Szechuan pepper, a pinch of earth, and even a drop of petrol. The second sip has orange peels, clear as day, gently bitter and assertively fruity. The bitterness increases: it never reaches ivy-leaves levels, but it tickles unripe-pomelo skin. That bitterness is soon met by sea water and algae of one kind or another, and raw clams. It gets fruitier with each sip, with pineapple (again) joining the citrus. Some will perhaps find smoked jackfruit, or not-quite-ripe yellow passion fruit. Finish: it shines, here, with smoked mussels and razor clams sprinkled with orange or tangerine juice, fishing nets hung out to dry, ink on blotting paper lost at sea. Then, retro-nasal olfaction brings tarry sands and treacle, bitumen, tarmac, smoked whelks. It is fresh to a point one might call minty. We will not. It is likely the tar that gives that impression, so we will talk about menthol cigarettes, and ozone. Further sips add citrus foliage to the mix -- a serving of smoked molluscs on a bed of citrus foliage: whelks, mussels, oysters, barnacles, periwinkles, cockles, and bergamot and orange leaves. It works a treat. The more one samples it, the earthier it becomes, but it is not clay or fields of any kind -- no! We are talking tarry sands, with more tar and bitterness at each sip. There is certainly a pun somewhere about Tory sands and fracking, but one would be right to question whether that is a laughing matter. The whisky, on the other hand, is excellent. It feels different from the first time, perhaps better. 9/10

27/09/2024 Fête de la Communauté française de Belgique

The yearly ill-named celebration is back. This year, we will have a Littlemill. Firstly, because we can. Secondly, in memoriam of Littlemillhead Bishlouk, whose blog was meant as a source of information for whisky aficionados of Wallonia. Strictly speaking, Wallonia and the French Community of Belgium is not the same thing, but they are close enough for today. Oh! and Bishlouk is alive and kicking. His blog, on the other hand, is moribund.

Littlemill 29yo d.1991 (48.1%, Cask Sample, Bourbon Barrel): no point pretending we are trying this blind, because I remember it from the first time. Nose: warm ginger-cat fur turns into baked apricots, then we have chocolate milk and a dusting of crushed Aspirin tablets. That latter becomes a mere grassy touch, oregano or rosemary, increasingly in the shadow of fruit squash, thick, syrupy, and fairly fragrant. Peach, orange, one berry or another. Deeper nosing displays the most-curious mix of leather shoes, newspapers, and cooked artichoke. It is but a few seconds before thick yellow fruits come back into focus, supported by a spoonful of lacquer of sorts and fragrant Turkish delights. Far in the back, this has hot cereals, though not quite porridge, and baked pine cones. In fact, pine cones grow in intensity, slathered with honey. The second nose is creamy, exuberant, full of smashed pineapple, sprinkled with lime juice and Aspirin gratings. Lime Schweppes, perhaps? Lacquer comes back, ready to apply on light-brown shoes or on a jewellery case. Mouth: unctuous at first, it soon proves a little spicy: ground cardamom, ground cloves, gravel filings, even, or quarry dust. Moving the tongue even by a millimetre awakens a basket of fruits: peaches, plums, nectarines, apricots, kumquats, papayas, jackfruits, ripe and juicy. Naturally, they are accompanied by a generous dose of crushed Aspirin (it is a Littlemill, after all), and there are also green jelly capsules. The second sip starts off plastic-y, yet not the kind that would result from a faulty container, I reckon; it is just a wee bit bitter. Right behind that is a symphony of fruits, with a drop of soda or tonic to lift it. Finish: lush and fruity at first, it proves hugely medicinal in seconds. Obviously, it is not a Laphroaig; we are talking pharmacy, here: capsules, tablets, magistral preparations, philtres and potions, powders of various kinds. It is bigly bitter, not far from dried cucumber peels on steroids, or dried pomelo peels. Fruits are now in the rear-view mirror, a shadow of what they once were. Still, one can identify them: apples, papaya, pomelo, kumquat, bergamot, jackfruit -- none quite ripe enough. The second gulp is in line, maybe more citrus-y, still on the lime-pomelo side of things. Shaddock pomelo or ugli fruit, at a push. Further sips dance around fruit jellies, chocolate-lined marshmallow (Cadbury Mallow Bites), fresh-mango slices dunked in chocolate milk, chocolate truffles, Nestlé Aero... Phwoar! The crushed Aspirin in the background adds a lovely complexity to this excellent dram. 9/10

20/09/2024 An evening at Jack Rose

'nuff said.

All this is whisk(e)y, you say?

Lochside 20yo 1981/2001 (58.4%, Blackadder Raw Cask imported by Heartland Wine & Spirits, Oak Hogshead, C#615, 250b): nose: severely neutral. Shaking the glass brings forth timid custard, somewhat fruity, and a woody spice, unidentifiable. Cigar boxes, maybe? Covering the glass for two minutes pumps the nose with citrus -- tangerine peels, says JS. Mouth: ooft! How creamy is this? We have citrus peels bathing in lemon custard, and grapefruit milk. It is wide, acidic, yet also mellow and harmonious. The second sip is stronger. It reveals more citrus: grapefruit, pomelo, Buddha's hand. Water adds pepper, and even more fruit. Finish: long, perfectly balanced, creamy, yet also a tad indistinct. Citrus peels again. The second gulp picks it up a notch, with so much lovely citrus it is insahne. Speaking of Sahne, it is less creamy, now. 9/10

vs.

Lochside 29yo 1981/2010 (54%, The Whisky Agency, Bourbon Hogshead, 183b): nose: very clearly a quality Sherry cask (what? It is a Bourbon cask!?), with syrupy fortified wine, oily nuts, and an earthy touch. We have dried dates too, and figs beaten to a pulp. One would struggle to decipher much tropical fruit here -- perhaps chewy jackfruit chunks. On the other hand, water gives away those expected tropical fruits, displayed on a piece of cardboard. That smells better than it reads. Mouth: well, it is tropical galore, here. Lychee, persimmon, dragon fruit. Oh! it retains a syrupy lick too, mind, with prunes and date syrup competing for attention. The second sip is still syrupy, date-laden. Chewing gives lychee and dragon fruit. Amazing. Water does not change the palate much. Finish a lovely fruit explosion, punctuated by coffee grounds and scorched earth, all doused in Pedro Ximénez. The second gulp is just as elegant, complex and intriguing, with prunes, dried dates, and oily dark tobacco. Water turns it into a fruit ice cream, mostly peach and banana, sprinkled with a dash of sweet-earthy Sherry. Win. 9/10

Annoyingly, they turn the air conditioning on, at this point. I am right underneath an outlet, and I suffer for the rest of our stay.

50.66 24yo d.1990 Retro Sweet Hamper (59.5%, SMWS Society Single Cask imported by Spirits Imports, Refill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 122b): interestingly, this one is not part of the fabled parcel of casks distilled on the 26th January 1990. It is actually from the 15th May. Nose: marshmallow, candy floss, and a lovely custard. It is a little minty, but closer to the pine goodness of a Benrinnes. It displays some shell fruits too -- hazelnut, pistachio. Breathing time gives it raspberry bubble gum, and boiled sweets (JS). It does become sugary alright (JS). Mouth: preserved cherries hit one in the face. They grow and blend in with pine cones, though they remain sweet, borderline syrupy. The second sip has more citrus, bitter marmalade, sticky with sugar. Finish: cinnamon, mulling spices (cloves, mixed peel), incense ash, spent tea leaves. It is a little drying, which is funny, because it remains juicy throughout. Cotton candy comes back at second gulp, sweet, fluffy, pillow-like. JS finds it reminiscent of the 23yo Rare Malt. Water adds a stripping quality to it. It is still good, but better neat. 9/10

vs.

50.67 25yo 1990/2015 Contrapuntal elegance (56.2%, SMWS Society Single Cask imported by Spirits Imports, Refill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 138b): this one, however, is from the day after Burns' Night. Nose: to avoid saying 'sharper'. let us say it is more incisive. We have putty (JS), plasticine, and scented pencil erasers. Tobacco tickles the back of the sinuses. The second nose gives marshmallow, closer to .66's. Water dials up the fruit. Mouth: big and berry-like, it is less bubble gummy than its sibling, and more fresh-fruit forward, pips and all. A gentle bitterness underlines that with a lick of wood, cinnamon sticks or other bark. It is still acidic at second sip, and somewhat reminiscent of a great Benrinnes, in that it has 'pine' written all over it; resin, pine-y custard, crushed pine cones. Water makes it creamier. Finish: sweet and bitter, not bitter-sweet, this offers smoked raspberries or blueberries, topped with Chantilly cream ('whipped' sounds less pretentious, and there is a town called Chantilly nearby). Here too, the second gulp reveals a pine-y profile not devoid of berries, but they stand out less than before. This one takes water much more successfully. 9/10

And for the next flight...

25.50 20yo 1989/2009 A sunny flower meadow (56.7%, SMWS Society Single Cask imported by Spirits Imports, Refill Hogshead, 258b): broken cork! And not a vacuum cleaner in sight! Jacob Ree-ZOMG! Nose: WTF! Asparagus? JS detects pencil shavings, then admits it may be asparagus, after all. We also have cut flowers (narcissus, dandelion, carnation). Over time, we find chunks of fruits that do not shake off the mild green bitterness of plant sap (cut carnations again). Later on, it emits some kind of liqueur too, cherry, perhaps, in a maraschino way. The second nose is in line, a little tamer. Later still, we have boiled potatoes. Again: what the facula! (very proud to embiggen your vocabulary) Mouth: dry and bitter, it has hay, plant stems, a broth of yellow spring flowers, and unripe Mirabelle plums. The second sip is close to desiccating, and much earthier. The flowers are but a memory, replaced by smoked elderberry. Finish: it continues in a similar direction, with bitter and sour (JS) playing off each other in a harmonious way. Yes, this is balanced. Later on, it is as sweet as confectionary sugar dusted onto a piece of pastry. Lovely. 8/10

vs.

25.51 18yo 1991/2010 Cherry lips and bitter nuts (52.7%, SMWS Society Single Cask imported by Spirits Imports, Refill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 206b): nose: although undeniably related, this adds chocolate to the equation (melted milk chocolate), and the flowery part, still yellow, daffodils and tulips, focuses on petals, rather than stems, more pillow-y than bitter. Deeper nosing reveals peach or nectarine. It is all sweeter upon second nosing, peachy and enticing. Mouth: here, it is closer to .50, bitter and acidic, if still entirely acceptable. Flowers, cut fruits, fresh, but slowly drying. The second sip may well be drier, with hay and nut spread, gently bitter, still -- comfortably so. Finish: long and fresh, it virtually does away with the bitterness to focus on a lovely fruity acidity, only to settle on cotton candy sprinkled with lime zest. The second gulp has lozenges, and candied or honey-glazed buttered almonds. In any case, it is beautiful, despite a clear bitterness. The more it lasts, and the closer to shell fruits it comes. 9/10

vs.

25.64 22yo d.1990 Manzanilla Sherry Trifle (58.9%, SMWS Society Single Cask imported by Spirits Imports, Refill Hogshead, 231b): datz ryte -- why have two SMWS Rosebanks when one can have three? In which other bar can one do that? Nose: much less assertive than the previous two, it has faded wallpaper, covered in years of tobacco use. Behind that layer comes a beautiful berry jam. The second nose has hot towels, humid and comforting (the kind they serve with the bill in some Asian restaurants, especially when the bill is high), fleeting ivy, and lingering peach foliage. Later on, it turns earthy, with dry hay, still, but much earthier than before, as if it had been cut and left in the mud before being wrapped in bales. Mouth: smoke? How unexpected! It is slight, but it seems to have some smoke indeed. Smoked plums, smoked greengages, abound. Chewing brings a softly-bitter green touch, alongside hay kept by a fire. The second sip comes across more mineral, pebbles covered in freshwater algae. Then, candy timidly crawl into view. Finish: phwoar! Smoked elderberry jam, cranberry compote, blackberry jelly. The death sees a dry-as-fook earthy note, meatiness and coconut (JS). Milk chocolate makes a shy appearance, much later on. 9/10

All unknown to tOMoH prior to this visit

JS is visibly feeling the combined effects of alcohol, hunger, and lack of sleep. With the clock ticking, it becomes obvious we will have to decide either to go for a Detroit pizza as planned, and run the risk of not coming back or not finding another seat here, or stay put and order food at the bar. The pizza place is open until late, and there is so much more to sample here! We opt for food here, supplemented by a pizza later on, if we have enough time before the last bus and train (spoiler alert: we will not).

Grilled Peach Bruschetta and Fried Mac & Cheese

tOMoH: "We will have a dram of 26.21 and one of Banff 1966."
waitress: "Which one? I have two..."
tOMoH: "You vile temptress, you! We will have a dram of 26.21, and one of each Banff 1966, then."

26.21 25yo d.1976 (57.8%, SMWS Society Cask imported by Spirits Imports, 297b): I know, right? Nose: this hails from a time before the Society wrote the type of casks (or flowery names) on its labels, but this is a Sherry cask for sure. And what a cask! Here are leather, rubber, prunes. This smells so chewy and earthy too, with plasticine, or clay. Oloroso at its best, tOMoH would say. It is fruitier with each sniff, pumped with raisins, smoked prunes, and dried figs. It also has a vague note of dishwater, interlaced with black-truffle shavings. The second nose has pickled red onions, cured ginger, and pink fruits that I have no time to identify. Mouth: ooft! This is fruity indeed. Prunes, dried figs, dried dates, a mesmerising blend of berries, both fresh and in jam form. Elderberry, blackcurrant, figs, myrtles. Juicy AF! The second sip sees jasmine and lychee join pressed raisins and dry earth. Finish: bitter aplenty, with unripe berries (blackcurrants, blackberries, myrtles), and, interestingly, coffee. It becomes rather earthy, with mild coffee and mocha ice cream. The second gulp has that hypnotic gig of earth and white tropical fruits, a blend of dark tobacco and lychee. Humbling. 9/10

vs.

Banff 34yo 1966/2001 (52,3%, Blackadder Raw Cask imported by Heartland Wine & Spirits, Sherry Butt, C#3438, 539b): nose: cut yellow fruit and mustard powder. The latter can be tricky to identify, but once one knows it is a trademark Banff note, it is hard not to spot it. It further moves towards wasabi paste and a three-mustard blend, as served with a salmon steak. There is also something plastic-y, an oilcloth or such, as well as the promise of further things to come. The second nose is more custard-y, creamy, vanilla-ed, full of flan tartlets and éclair sans chocolate. That would be thick custard and chou dough, then. Mouth: meow, is this silky, or what? Chewing unveils some mustard, but we are dealing with creamy, fruity, and spicy at the same time. Chunks of dragon fruit dunked in honey mustard, hints of lychee and rambutan sprinkled with mustard powder. The second sip is fresh, almost minty. It has custard and chou dough alright, rich and luscious. Finish: the best thing we have had tonight. It is mustard-y, fruity, balanced, juicy, harmonious, simply perfect. In truth, tOMoH is well emotional, now, and it is not due to the jetlag. The second gulp is full of lovely minty custard, augmented with the sparkle of kombucha (JS). What the factitiousness? This is unfuckingbelievable. 10/10

vs.

Banff 36yo 1966/2003 (54%, Blackadder Raw Cask imported by Heartland Wine & Spirits, Sherry Butt, C#3439, 519b): nose: a dusty number that gives a lot of fruits so dry they fade to a pile of dust. Figs, dates, banana chips. JS finds it incredibly composed. It is an excellent Sherry cask alright. Side-nosing gives a faint eggy note without any sulphur. Fresh egg white, instead. The second nose offers a deluge of prunes, cured peaches, raisins and dried figs, probably all splashed with caramel. Mouth: absurdly balanced. Here is caramel of the highest quality, flan, thick custard, caramel coulis. Chewing adds a drying aspect, which suggests an Oloroso maturation again. Prunes and pitted dried dates, dried currants. The second sip definitely confirms the caramel, and it is jostling with currants and berries (dried cranberries make an entry, here). Finish: it is at its earthiest, now, with pressed elderberries and dried dates, dusted with coffee grounds, or the residue of a Moka pot. The second gulp seems coffee-laden, though it stops on the right side of it by tOMoH's standards. 9/10

What. A. Flight.

Sadly, it is time to go. We catch the last bus and the next-to-last Metro back to town. Incredible selection. Would you believe we left a Linlithgow and two Glencraigs untouched? And only days later do we realise they have a 'rare' section on their menu...

The Glencraigs in question

The winning pair

18/09/2024 Tomatin

Tomatin 38yo 1976/2015 (47%, OB for Whisky Hoop, C#31, 190b): nose: with no surprise, but a lot of pleasure, we are treated to a deluge of tropical fruits. Peaches, mangoes, persimmon, pomelo, calamansi, yellow maracuja, pineapple. They are softly acidic, mostly sweet and juicy. Some of that is heated, reminiscent of a carrot-and-orange soup made with many more oranges than carrots. We also have a nuance of stainless-steel lemon squeezer. In fact, the deeper one noses this, the more citrus-y it becomes. Covering and shaking the glass revives the yellow fruits (mango, peach), and introduces an earthier touch, unexpectedly: potting soil, tagete planters. Still, inexorably, pomelo and yuzu kick into gear and take over, in the long run. The second nose is a little greener, with reeds and other freshwater plants, alongside something I recognise, but struggle to put a name on -- either rubber splashed with lemonade, or static plastic wrappers for computer boards. It you have ever taken a new motherboard out of its wrapping, it has a very particular smell. Quickly enough, fruits come back, though. Mouth: phwoar! Juicy citrus, skin included, which is to say it is acidic and mildly bitter, despite all that juice. Chewing causes a proper explosion of fruits, starting with ripe tangerines and oranges, followed by mangoes, nectarines, maracuja (yellow and purple, this time), calamansi, guava, and carambola. This is not tOMoH's style, in other words. Ahem. We have a blink-and-you-miss-it lick of rubber -- a fresh rubber seal, to be precise. The second sip seems almost mineral, for a moment, yet rubber seals and exuberant fruits are quick to catch up, much to one's delight. Finish: all the same fruits, smashed to a pulp with a pestle and mortar, and augmented with crushed mint leaves. It is so refreshing it comes close to a minty gel, yet it does not take much effort to find more than just toothpaste in this, no. We have Mirabelle plums, mangoes, yellow maracuja, pineapple, clementines, and a minor bitterness once again. The second gulp is creamier and puts the emphasis firmly on those lush tropical fruits. Mango skins, cut carambola, unripe persimmon, Mirabelle plum, peach. Heavenly masterpiece. 10/10 (Thanks for the sample, OB)

16/09/2024 A couple of things by J. & A. Mitchell

#2: after Friday's cock-up, let us do a double take. Yes, it is #2. Nose: preserved strawberries, oily mahogany shelves, and an oilcloth heated by the sun in the conservatory. This is not at all a subtle nose! It shouts and yells, bombastic as any. It has an addition of woodworm-ridden bookshelves, with lichen slowly taking hold. That said, mahogany, strawberry and oilcloth remain the loudest. Shaking the glass adds candied mace, and a drop of rocket-infused grappa. The second nose doubles down on oilcloth, though no longer heated. It has more herbs too: thyme, marjoram, tarragon, all dried. Astonishingly, oilcloth further grows in stature and prominence. Mouth: candied mace and rocket are right. The powerful (sharp) attack introduces a bitter-sweet taste, part candied lusciousness, part green bitterness. Candied angelica would be an accurate descriptor, probably. Chewing brings a dose of wood, and we just may see blue Venetian chocolate, or lovage seeds. The second sip still kicks, sweet, yet also peppery. Cracked white and pink peppers, sprinkled on some mint-and-mayonnaise jelly (for those who know), candied herbs and rocket. How original! Finish: fresh, it is also custard-y. Picture melted blue chocolate, or a dollop of mint cream, candied mace that veers towards stem ginger, and jellied tarragon (and why not?) The second gulp carries on, perhaps with more emphasis on candied-or-jellied herbs and shards of cinnamon bark coated in syrup. Indeed, the wood influence is undeniable, if well under control. In the long run, one may be convinced to spot pine jelly (not quite Gocce Pino), and dried mixed peel, sweet, yet also softly bitter. A Speyside Distillery 18yo 2001/2020 (52.3%, Cadenhead for Virtual Open Day 2020, Bourbon and Sherry Casks, 552b) 7/10

I hear we have time for another one.

Springbank 16yo 1991/2007 Rum Wood (54.2%, OB Wood Expressions, 8 years in Refill Bourbon / 8 years in Fresh Rum, 5100b, 07/176): would it come as a surprise if we said this is entirely different? Immediately, one is slapped in the nose by an assertive farmyard scent. Damp cobblestones, mud, muck trickling into the gutters. Underneath that, we find a crystalline minerality, flint or slate, and, for those who care to look for it, the characteristic sweetness of a white rum. Next up is a lettuce wrapped in an old newspaper that becomes a glossy magazine turning damper by the second. But it is a Springbank, so we also spot an old smoky-dusty boiler, in the background. Initially, I could have sworn it had barley too, but I am no longer so sure. On the other hand, dried dill makes a timid entrance. The second nose is more vegetal, with vine leaves, citrus foliage, and a generous serving of cane-sugar syrup paving the way for oiled white wood (birch or acacia). Lastly, we note a thin smoke from a herbs fire (gentian, sage, juniper, lemon thyme). Mouth: mineral-and-a-half, this is like sucking on gravel, for a moment. Then, we see a lot more sweetness invade the mouth: candied angelica, candied lemon peel, stem ginger. Chewing does not alter it much; it remains a mineral, sweet, bitter affair. Maybe we have more citrus foliage, drowned in a syrup of sorts. The second sip is bitterer, almost a car-glass-cleaning spray. That cools down (phew), and candied goodies come back, mixed peel and candied angelica in front. Finish: interestingly, it feels more acidic than expected -- the citrus, without doubt. Apart from that, it is a tad indistinct. Mineral and softly bitter, sure, but beyond that? I suppose we have warm caster sugar, caked to the bottom of a stainless-steel vessel. The second gulp is very much in line, with a bitter side somewhat louder than before. It is definitely stainless steel, Swiss army knives and pencil-sharpener blades, or the circular blade of a meat slicer. All that is coated in caster sugar, which is an interesting combination that one only gets from a rum-cask maturation. Case in point. Very competent effort. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, CB)

13/09/2024 Paul John

#5: nose: fairly safe to say it is going to be an Islay -- probably even "an Islay", i.e. an undisclosed L@g@vulin. That is because just pouring it emits wafts of warming peat smoke. Nosing it properly, it is actually a lot more subtle than it first seemed; sure, it has (gentle) smoke, yet also varnished wood in an antique carpenter's workshop and blood sausage, of which black pudding is the most obvious to spot. There is an earthy layer at play too, with clay and wood, coloured with a drop of ink. The initial smoke retreats to the distant background and makes room for purple pencil erasers, with a consistency halfway between plasticine and rubber. I am starting to doubt the Islay provenance, now. Perhaps it is a Paul John instead? Does it even matter? Fruits slowly make their way up to the surface, candied pineapple and papaya cubes, dried mango slices, and also chewy cassia bark. The second nose has old ground coffee stored in a cardboard box, as well as burnt-paper ash on top of roasted pineapple. Mouth: ker-pow! Bold and punchy, it hits one like Mike Tyson Fury. Once past the shock, we are taken by an immense bitterness; it feels like sucking on a rubber joint, or a car-door seal. Black liquorice bootlaces, crushed ivy leaves, dolmas. Chewing brings about an earthy touch in the form of a sprinkle of dry earth, and there are dried, chewy citrus peels to be found for those who want to find them. The second sip feels more acidic, with smoked citrus segments, tangerines and oranges, rather than fierce lemons. An earthy-smoky haze cloaks it all, and chewing, once again, reveals a bitterer side, which is pleasant, even though it flirts with the limits. Finish: perhaps it is all that chewing and salivating, but the finish is much softer than expected, unctuous, chocolate milk-like. It takes at least twenty seconds for fistfuls of dry earth to appear, fairly tame: they give an Americano-like bitterness, something close to mocha cake that bears no comparison with what the mouth endured. The second gulp is fruitier and more acidic. Ideal dram for this bright-but-cool day We are luckier than WhiskyLovingPianist, so far: third plastic sample in a row, still no dud. What is it, then? Oh. Caol Ila 29yo d.1991 (48.9%, Cask Sample, Bourbon Hogshead) Perhaps it has lost a bit, after all, because, on paper, it should be a lot more impressive than the above. The notes are also not entirely aligned with what we found when we first had it. No, it was really Paul John 7yo (54.1%, Cask Sample) 7/10

Edit 16/09/2024: tOMoH does not know the difference between '5' and '6'. We actually had #5, and it was indeed a Paul John.

07/09/2024 Glenrothes

We keep our focus on plastic samples. It is another one from Cadenhead, and you will note we are not having these in the given order. That is how rock 'n roll tOMoH is. Does not play by anyone's rules. Not even his own. Tasted blind, of course.

#1: nose: this smells youngish, around the twelve-to-fifteen-year-old mark, which is to say it is a little prickly on the nose, with gherkin brine, wash, and oat milk. That is soon enough balanced out when the wash puts on a barley-custard cape, cereal-y, but most importantly sweeter. In truth, however, this nose is not that expressive. Cereals grow more assertive, and are sprinkled with dust, but we do not find much more. The second nose is totally different; we step into a bothy, or, better yet, a garden shed, while a garden fire burns outside, and rightfully blows some smoke indoors. You read that right: we are getting the tiniest whiff of smoke. Mouth: prickly alright! Chicory infusion, or rather, chicory granules, crunchy and bitter, if ultimately pleasant. We have an empty hot Moka pot, fenugreek, and torched crayons. Indeed, although carried by a creamy, silky texture, this is a bitter palate, if more chicory leaves than dry earth. The second sip is cooler, a spoonful of melted chocolate ice cream. One may well detect a dash of caramel coulis poured on said ice cream. It retains some of the bitterness in the finish, now made more welcoming by the addition of chocolate -- milk chocolate, melted chocolate, chocolate pudding, congealed chocolate custard. This is a long finish, nutty, chocolate-y, a blend of almond and chocolate milks, very much a winning combination. The second gulp takes the above to a higher level with a drop of walnut liqueur, sweet, bitter, warming. It leaves the gums throbbing for a wee while. Honest drop. Glenrothes-Glenlivet 23yo b.2020 (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, 60% Bourbon + 40% Sherry Casks) 7/10

06/09/2024 Glendronach

Prompted by WhiskyLovingPianist's recent article about plastic samples, I feel an urgency to get rid of revisit those samples. We had today's whisky almost four years ago, so it is certainly time for another go. Blind, too; the samples are labelled 1 to 6, and it feels more interesting to not look at what those numbers mean before trying the whiskies again.

#4: nose: beautifully woody, with encaustic, beeswax, and glossy ultramarine paint (RAL 5002). Further, we find walnut oil, perhaps cashew oil -- it is an oily affair alright; I had mahogany oil, the first time, which is fair enough. Deeper nosing rolls out a carpet of thick apricot jam, punctuated by smashed physalis, and washed down with a sip of Cognac Fin Bois. Indeed, it has a grape side as well, subtle, mostly hiding behind well-maintained wood furniture. The second nose has melted chocolate littered with smashed blueberries. Soon, apricot jam returns to prominence -- and who is complaining about it? Suddenly, and out of nowhere, some kind of soda tickles the nostrils -- Ricqlès comes to mind, for a reason I cannot explain. Old steel nuts and bolts appear too. Mouth: here, the wine influence is unmistakable. It has to be a Sherry cask or another, probably a sweet one. We find cured orange rinds, raisins injected with chilli-infused water, lychee shavings, grape juice blended with wood oil, and even a dash of paint thinner. Chewing insistently reveals a woody side too, shaved vine or orchard tree, and unripe myrtles. The second sip has a faint metallic note, copper, brass, or bronze, that reminds one of copper coins dipped in grape juice. It takes some furious chewing for any wood to come back out in the shape of Cognac Fin Bois. Finish: dignified, long, woody and fruity. Wood-haters need not worry, for it is far from plank-y or bitter. Instead, we have vine snippings, dark-grape pips, black olives. That aside, we note prunes, apricots caramelised beyond recognition, and berries, stewed with cloves and a cinnamon stick. Mulled wine this is not, yet it bears some resemblance for they who want to see it. Interesting fruits come out at the second gulp: dragon-fruit cubes and rambutan dunked in prune juice, augmented with a few drops of dark maple syrup, and pecans. Softly bitter after all, then. Phew! This one seems intact. My suspicion is it is an aged Glendronach -- and indeed, it is. It may well score higher on another day. Glendronach 30yo d.1990 (47.2%, Cask Sample, Bourbon Cask re-racked into First Fill Sherry Cask in 2013) 8/10

02/09/2024 Littlemill

97.9 17yo 1990/2007 Clean spirit in a quality cask (56%, SMWS Society Cask): leftover from ten days ago. Nose: a potent blend of daffodil, confectionary sugar, and Tête de Moine. The latter is more about the elevated fragrance imparted by the shredded texture than it is about dairy of any kind, let alone smelly cheese (not that Tête de Moine is particularly smelly). Nah! This is flowery and fruity. Sweet? Undoubtedly. Not cheesy. This has flower-scented crepe paper (in a similar idea as that Tête de Moine), persimmon, cider or perry, and tonic water. We are not in quinine territory, yet it does promise a slight bitterness. Perhaps, if Alka Seltzer made a citrus-flavoured effervescent tablet, this could be close. Next are peaches, smashed on a mahogany plank. And we move to pastries -- pear tartlets dusted with confectionary sugar. The second nose has an apricot-and-mud smoothie, blue plasticine, modelling clay, and citrus foliage (bergamot or kumquat). Candy necklaces take to the stage, crumbly, chalky, yet sweet too. Mouth: it is at once bitter, fruity and hot. What is the ABV on this? It feels higher. Nae bother, though, as that is adequately balanced by cut peach slices, juicy apricots, perhaps even (fairly-unripe) mangoes, and a pinch of Aspirin-tablet gratings. Chewing increases that Aspirin bitterness, and tickles ink. With (not too much) imagination, one may picture petrol-stained cockles, which is unexpected and amusing at the same time, a bit like being in the room when the Queen farts. More chewing piles up mangoes, always a pleasure. The second sip feels much more acidic and sweeter: orange slices, candied kumquats, dried apricots, chewy, sweet, and pickled with a drop of pomelo juice. Or it could be pomelo soda instead. Crushed Aspirin comes back, tamer than before. Finish: warm and fruity, it is also surprisingly chalky. Probably, that is the Aspirin taking on a new facet, more desiccating and less bitter. We have the dried residue in an empty glass of tonic lemonade, pink chalk on a blackboard, and dried lemon peels via retro-nasal olfaction. Remarkably long and warming, this finish feels almost medicinal. Not in the way one usually understands a medicinal whisky mind; it is closer to something one would drink to avoid scurvy and malaria. In other words, it is tropical-not-tropical fruit juice dressed in tonic water. The second gulp is sweeter, with honey-glazed kumquat easily overpowering the quinine bitterness, which takes the appearance of a candy necklace. Excellent! 9/10 (Thanks for the sample, PS)