06/01/2025 Carsebridge

Carsebridge 45yo 1965/2011 (44.7%, Hunter Hamilton The Clan Denny, Bourbon Barrel, C#HH7500): nose: marzipan and almond croissants, which is fairly standard for an old grain, I suppose. It is relatively discreet, on the whole. Energy-drink powder (Isostar, Dextro Energy), signalling at once fruit and chalk. It has an aura of refinement and elegance, yet I find it difficult to pick apart. In the long run, aromatic herbs emerge, thyme, oregano, rosemary, then we go back to pastry with caster sugar. The second nose presents a spray of furniture wax, and sugared milk in a tin pot simmering on the stove of a pensioner's home. The heated metal becomes very obvious with time. Mouth: bigly metallic (bitter) and sweet, this has peach turnovers, white with confectionary sugar, and enriched with thyme and sage. Chewing brings back the marzipan from the nose, and adds a nip of walnut liqueur. The second sip is very much in line, the flavours so deeply integrated that they form an indivisible whole. Still: sugar, a pinch of herbs, warmed tin, and -- oh! What is that mango doing here? Finish: woody, a little bitter, and hugely nutty, this relatively-soft finish has all the distinction and refinement one could expect of something of that age. The initial biting bitterness is but fleeting, and we soon find ourselves in a cabinet maker's workshop, rather than licking old planks. Retro-nasal olfaction captures some fleeting tropical fruits too: papaya, mango, candied pineapple cubes. The second gulp coats all that in toffee and caramelises it all gently. Dried apricots covered in caramel, banana or plantain slices, coated in caramel, butterscotch, and even a pinch of liquorice-root shavings -- unless it is aniseed in custard? In any case, it is delicious! Without the wood bitterness, this beautiful old grain would score even higher, as it did when we first had it. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, WhiskyLovingPianist)

03/01/2025 An evening at the SMWS

Might as well, eh? Booking is mandatory, now, and it is a two-hour slot. The intention is probably to turf out the wannabe authors who would otherwise hog a table all day to write their book, while sipping a sole glass of tap water? It makes an impromptu visit less likely, but, in a way, it makes sense.

JS and I are given a table in the upstairs room, which is a little inconvenient: not everything is on display there, there is no menu other than the most-recent outturn, and the staff are spread between two floors, therefore less available to help (and sometimes they have no answer). That means we struggle to figure out what is available or how much it costs, and it takes a round trip for anyone to go fetch a bottle or check information. That is before we even mention the distracting disco music they are playing. Who comes to the SMWS to hear catchy music?

Anyway, we make it work. It is simply less efficiently and convivial. We quickly establish that the one dram we are really after (105.44) is not available at all.

46.150 31yo d.1992 Nostalgia was better in the olden days (51.3%, SMWS Vaults Collection, ex-bourbon Hogshead finished in 1st Fill ex-PX Hogshead, 225b): nose: a level of depth that one can but rejoice about -- white peach, lychee, and cherries, ripe to bursting. Behind that is a touch of melted marzipan pickled with crushed cloves. The second nose is extremely raisin-y, flirting with prunes. A strong whiff of perfume then rises (dried flower petals and dried apple slices), as does fine earth, before fruits come back, chiefly smoked prunes, now. Mouth: the entrance is briefly sweet, full of prune syrup, then it turns into a bitter earthy beast, for a second, then settles halfway between those two. There is some almond liqueur in here, which means it is both bitter and sweet. The second sip feels like licking a freshly-oiled oaken shelf. It really is bitter, this. The wood comes out, shy, elegant, not plank-y, but rather obvious. It hints at liquorice wheels, after a while. Finish: cured peaches, ground almonds. It is warming to a point, but quickly turns dry, like munching on gravel. Repeated sipping remains bitter and drying, woody, albeit balanced and elegant. Cherry tree, polished fruit-tree wood, stewed plums (stones included). This is good, with a nose that outshines the palate and finish. I find it hard to justify the retail price. 8/10

We inquire about a couple of old Auchentoshan we spotted on the Web site. They are not available here. Our waiter brings back a selection of bottles from downstairs, including this younger expression.

5.118 20yo d.2003 The new old fashioned (55.9%, SMWS Society Cask for China, 1st Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 171b): nose: cosmetic powder and face cream of sorts, scented talcum powder, and pouches filled with dried heather (I am reluctant to call it pot-pourri, since it is only the one type of flower). Phwoar! Next are Turkish delights, dripping with confectionary sugar, but also bits of Virginia tobacco. The second nose is as ethereal and airy, refined and elegant, full of cosmetic powders and billows of light ciggy smoke. Later on, we even find strawberry sorbet in this! Mouth: strongly acidic, borderline desiccating, it continues the cosmetic-powder trip. Confusingly, it could be chalky too -- citrus-y chalk, perhaps? The second sip is fruity, drying, wrestling all of one's taste buds with fiery rocks, white-hot gravel, and a sprinkle of cosmetic powder. What a furious dram! Finish: we have grated chalk, mixed with crushed rose petals, dried citrus zest and crumbs of Turkish delights. Several minutes after swallowing, a bold bitterness takes over, earthy as liquorice dragged through a cinder pitch. The second gulp has a soft, pine-y touch. Lovely. A strong 8/10

63.105 20yo d.2002 Dangerously gorgeous (53.8%, SMWS Society Cask, 1st Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 180b): another staff recommendation. Nose: a lot tamer, by comparison, yet it also has cosmetic powder and high-end cream applied on the perfectly-tanned skin of a honey-haired model. Perhaps we have a pine-wood clearing too, with pine cones, pine needles, all a bit distant. Suddenly, holly berries appear, juicy, and promising to be bitter. The second nose has the upper layer of forest floor: dead leaves, pine needles, mushrooms. Mouth: it is another bitter number, for a flash, then that calms down to give daffodils instead. Quarry chippings, stone dust, and a containerful of gravel left in a pine clearing. That is right: it still has that forest-y feel, although it is now almost mentholated. Finish: initially floral and yellow, it takes its sweet time to properly explode. Then, assertively, it rises from the dead (or from the stomach, actually), and radiates a heat that is particularly adequate, on a cold day such as today. Quaffing on repeat adds minty gel to the lot, not as strong as the filling in Gocce Pino, but certainly in the same general direction. 8/10

"Since you liked the 5, my colleague thought you would like this."

38.26 27yo 1992/2020 Treasure hunt (49.8%, SMWS Vaults Collection, 2nd Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 250b): nose: rising bread dough on an oilskin, and baked apricot halves. Unexpectedly, a whiff of ganja hits me fleetingly. A glance around the room: no-one is smoking, nor does anyone have the obvious profile. It is the whisky. In no time, we are back with a (sweet-)pasty scent, topped with confectionary sugar. Mouth: super oily in texture, not exactly coating, but it calls for swirling in the mouth, and has that distinctive mouthfeel one gets from a spoonful of oil. Finish: phwoar! It shines in the finish. An eruption of pastry, generously decorated with confectionary sugar. 9/10

What next? It may well be time to try that old-style bottle on the countertop.

68.9 20yo 1985/2005 Honey on digestives (54.3%, SMWS Society Cask): nose: this is quite obviously from another era, when the Society did not know how to integrate alcohol! Post-stamp glue, rubbing alcohol, more and more alcohol. When the alcohol eventually dissipates, we find dried mud. The second nose is more approachable, sunny and hay-like. It opens up to divulge dried peach slices and intoxicating pepper. What an experience! Mouth: dry, leathery, and full of hay. This is a ride in the American West -- until one chews, at which point, it gains some fruits: lemon rinds, salted for shits and giggles. Preserved lemons, as well as something sweeter... Would it be preserved calamansi? It comes very close to warm Oloroso, at some point. The penny drops about the dry hay and leather: it is horse's hair! Pretty blatant, when one thinks about it. A horse that would be combed and sprayed with citrus juice -- ha! Finish: very warming, with coconut mats, aged eau-de-vie, cut hair, woven into a rope. The second gulp too seems more approachable. Steaming custard and vanilla ice cream, melted and boiling, topped with cracked black pepper, and served on a hot stainless-steel plate. We find some liquorice wheels or rubber at the death. This is very interesting a dram, even if only to put in contrast with today's offerings. Nothing the SMWS releases today tastes like this. 7/10

36.217 17yo d.2006 Heaven and Earth (59.2%, SMWS Society Cask, ex-Bourbon Hogsheads finished in two 1st Fill ex-PX Hogsheads, 518b): nose: dark-purple cough drops, nearer to blackberries than to liquorice. It also has menthol and corduroy upholstery. The second nose has candied cantaloupe chunks, cured watermelon, sweet wine poured on earth, and cured pineapple rings. Mouth: oof! It is really tainted by the second maturation, and there is no shortage of fiery rancio or elderberry, moving towards raisins (including dried stems) and dried dates. The second sip is bone dry, desiccating, We have strong fortified wine, boozy cough syrup, and a pinch of chalk, even. Finish: rich, it falls somewhere between earthy and fruity, with dried dates, raisins, prunes, dried figs, all covered in earth dried by days of relentless sunshine. Decent (if a tad generic) Sherry-matured dram, this. 7/10

Time to call it a night. Tomorrow, my head will unexpectedly be sore all day.

03/01/2025 Akkeshi

Not to be confused with Akashi, which is a brand of single malts and blends from White Oak distillery. This is a leftover from last year.

Akkeshi 3yo 2018/2023 (57.8%, Adelphi Selection, 1st Fill ex-Bourbon American Standard Barrel, C#1011, 253b): nose: fairly unique, in that it has a dominant dry character, with weathered leather, hay, and desert dirt. Is this from Japan, or from the American West? It has a smoky-earthy vibe too, roasted barley, smoked on a campfire, that continues the cow-boy story. Behind that, preserved lemons and smoked lemon rinds, hidden in hay bales. The only comparison I can think of is Glen Elgin: the official twelve-year-old had some similarities, as I recall it. One may detect campfire-dried fishing nets too, likely used to fish in fresh water, rather than at sea. The second nose has charred wood, soaking in a purple plastic bucket full of warm fresh water. Whatever barley we had earlier has been roasted to char, and milled to smithereens. A faint milky or buttery whiff rises slowly, in the long run. Mouth: immensely salty and dry, it has crumbly-peat smoke, tarry sands blown with a hairdryer, smoked crayfish shells, black ink poured on crusty earth, and pitch-black ashes. It is quite potent, and it takes dozens of seconds for the heat to come under control. Then, it turns frankly inky, and introduces some freshwater algae that I cannot identify. The second sip has something medicinal to it. It is not invasive, or bothering in any way; a jar of rubbing alcohol, or something old school like that, or old bandages impregnated with Aptonia warming gel. Smoke comes back in full force as soon as one chews. Finish: the heat is astonishingly restrained, at first gulp, warming, dry, not drying, and pleasantly comforting on this cold-but-dry January day. The finish too is rich with ink and dark earth, yet it has less ash than the palate. Still, smoky, it leaves the gob dirty, grimy, as if covered in soot and charry ashes -- burnt plants, rather than burnt wood. The second gulp seems stronger, which suggests it varies hugely, depending on how long one keeps it in the mouth before swallowing. It numbs the taste buds, somewhat, but, before that, fleetingly, the whole mouth is like flooded with stagnant water, full of vegetal components floating mid-water, hanging aimlessly. It is but fleeting, though: that is soon torched to ashes and char, which is the lasting impression. Burnt fishing nets and rods, porridge leftovers tossed into the campfire, burnt wicker, all augmented with a drop of dark maple syrup. Indeed, a subtle caramelised note appears at the death. This is excellent. 8/10

02/01/2025 Knob Creek

Ha! Dryanuary. That month when tOMoH focusses on drinks that are not Single Malt Scotch Whisky. At home. When on the road, of course...

Knob Creek Straight Rye Whiskey (50%, OB Small Batch, b. ca. 2022): nose: funnily enough, since it is not a Bourbon, it smells very Bourbon-like, with butterscotch on staves, vanilla custard, and melted toffee. It is only far beneath that that a rye note becomes vaguely discernible -- and by that, I mean Irn Bru, not rye bread. Deeper sniffs unlock coconut-and-mandarin shower gel, as well as frozen-peach shavings. A sprinkle of confectionary sugar adds to the lot. The second nose has citrus foliage too, joining juicy fruits -- probably kumquat, now. It gives a general pastry feeling, without getting into specifics. Mouth: medicinal? It certainly has something of a (palatable) cough syrup, or alternative-medicine jelly caps. Citrus becomes prominent again, tangerines, mandarins, and dissolved vitamin C effervescent tablets, including the mild bitterness that often comes with that. How weird! The second sip comes across as more acidic, and props up Irn Bru again, which is to say: metallic, and a bit chemical. Finish: sweet and bitter. We note more vitamin C effervescent tablets, matched by citrus fruits. It is noticeably sweeter that on the palate, all ripe tangerines and clementines, peeled and cut into juicy segments. A long and comfortable finish. Upon repeated sipping, one may find it hard to reconcile the mouth with the finish, which is a lot sweeter. It is less bitter with each sip, and presents none of the sub-medicinal touches we found earlier. Instead, it revives those Bourbon-y notes, custard and butterscotch, maybe banana bread. Simple, a little vulgar, perhaps, but it does the trick alright. 6/10 (Thanks, ME)