1/01/2018 NYD drams at Dornoch Castle Hotel

With our session aborted yesterday, we decide there is no time to waste today. The weather is beautiful, but who cares about hikes? We can hike another day. Many of those bottles are almost empty and another chance will likely never present itself.
Hiking is therefore cancelled. To be fair I do feel silly for not taking advantage of the weather more, but hey! One cannot do everything at the same time.
Consequently, we are at the bar at 10:10. So early, in fact, that the receptionist has to ask if she is allowed to serve us. Scottish law forbid early alcohol consumption, you see. Since we are staying at the hotel, she is allowed, we are told. Bring it on!

She does break two corks, though, which presents another obstacle...

Tamnavulin d.1970 (40%, OB The Stillman's Dram): nose: pickled onions, gherkins, pickled quail eggs, dry hazelwood. Mouth: this pickled profile is most peculiar -- pickled quail eggs, pickled onions, a touch of rancio (!)... It is gently drying too, which is not surprising, considering the vinegar-y profile. Finish: much softer, with custard, vanilla, but also pickles. Just about makes it to 7/10 (by the skin of its teeth)

Balblair 1973/1995 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Centenary Reserve): nose: pickled sherry, with rubber and burnt wood. Soon, peppermint and fruit come out too, which is more to my taste. Mouth: strawberry bubble gum, gentle rubber, smoky wood. Interesting mix of sherry and fruit, this palate. Finish: perfect blend of, again, fruit (raspberry, sultana, prune) and warm, dry wood, softly smoked. 8/10

Chichibu ePower b.2015 (61.1%, OB Ichiro's Malt, Hogshead Mizunara Heads + New Barrel Hard Charred, C#1490+1683, 538b): nose: sweet, caramel-y, butterscotch-y, tablet-y. Mouth: it has the undeniably rounded elegance of a Japanese whisky, with caramel, custard cream biscuits and Bourbon cream. Finish: long, warming, with hot coulis and happiness. 8/10

The time has come. We set off, following the course of our yearly hike. Today, though, no hike: we stop on the beach. After seeing it last year, I was foolish enough to decide I would take part in the Loony Dook. We have met lots of people doubting, or, worse, daring me, which convinced me even more -- although I have to admit it feels like a dodgy idea as soon as we exit the bar: the road is slippery as an eel, covered in icy frost, and the temperature is around -1°C. But then, the sky is blue and the sun is shining. How could the conditions ever be better?

A big group is gathered on the beach, some with wet suits, some in bath robes, some with a drink in their hand, hinting at their not having been to sleep yet (it is almost midday).
The MC counts down, a piper starts playing, and it is off... to the sea! It is hard to explain how alive I feel, after what must have lasted fifteen seconds in total. Lots of giggling, searching for my towel, then the drying process starts. The sun is shining and it feels warm. My skin dries and it is comfortable. And then, as I hurry to dry up, I realise my feet are on damp sand, and my toes are completely numb. Numb to a point they have never been before. I do my best to move and friction them as I pass the towel, but with all the sand, it is too soon to put my socks on. Only once I have done that do they slowly come back to life.
I am so happy to have done this silliness! :-)

One of these muppets is yours, truly

Back at the hotel, I go for a shower to clean off the salt, JS goes for a nap. I join dom666 in the bar. To warm up, you understand.

Glen Mhor 21yo d.1976 (43%, Hart Brothers Finest Collection): nose: brine, capers, sardines, bread, bread crumbs, bread crust. It also has crackers (biscuits for cheese) and granola. Top nose, this. Mouth: soft, sweet, mildly briny, it even has black pepper. The texture is milky, whilst the taste is vaguely herbaceous, with a pinch of thyme and oregano, as well as a note of wood. Later on, marmalade comes out. It does not feel weak at 43%, even coming back to it after the next dram, which has a very high ABV. Finish: long, earthy, with bits of charcoal and, perhaps, a touch of smoke. Smoky marmalade, embers, capers, anchovies -- this is a tomato-less putanesca sauce! 8/10

vs.

Glen Mhor 17yo 1975/1992 (60.9%, Cadenhead Original Collection): an oddity at cask strength, when the Original Collection is usually bottled at 46%. Nose: Ah! It is from that period when Cadenhead were bottling whiskies with oddly-integrated alcohol. It has petrol, lamp oil, engine oil, ... is that fruit? Roasted apples, apricot stones, then dried orange rinds. Mouth: more fruit, here, but it is quite austere all the same -- apricot stone, flint, dried orange rinds, ground to a dust, acidic, not juicy. In fact, it is rather drying; but then, with an ABV such as this one, it is hardly unexpected. Finish: powerful, sooty. This is another old-school dram. It is not extremely outspoken, but pleasant, if one can muster up the resistance to the high strength. Marmalade develops, as does mixed peel. 8/10

Both Mhors are superb!

PT emerges from the depths and invites us all to a distillery tour -- JS has reappeared, by now. The distillery looks much more used than last year, and PT is his usual enthusiastic self to explain the process, which is great. He pours Longmorn 23yo 1969/1993 (61.2%, Gordon & MacPhail Cask, C#3271+5297) which is my favourite dram of the stay, so far. Unbelievable stuff that I rate 10/10.

Disclaimer

This, now, ...works

The kit has been put to good use. Not shiny, any longer

A long wash

We are then treated to a dram of...

Dornoch New Make (unknown ABV, unreleased): nose: herbs and a little metal, such as old copper coins, sage, dried parsley and maybe kale. Behind that, glazed pears, coated in sugary syrup. Mouth: soft, it has custard, almond milk and squashed banana. Finish: big, with the promise of lots of fruit, almond paste, and light nut liqueur. I am not a fan of new makes, but this is promising alright. 7/10

And bowls of...

Mushroom soup

Cullen skink

PT bids good bye and leaves us at the bar.

Millburn 31yo 1974/2006 (52.3%, Cadenhead imported by Japan Imports System, Bourbon Hogshead, 246b): nose: balsamic vinegar, engine oil, olive oil, old wood, leather-bound books. A moment later, marmalade shows up and the nose dies on a whiff of a smoky workshop. Mouth: similar notes to the nose's, with balsamic vinegar, olive oil, books and engine fumes. This is complex and wonderful, as well as rather warm. Finish: smoky, with burnt wood, crusty earth and caramelised marmalade on a roaring camp fire. How amazing is this? Totally my style, that is how amazing it is! 9/10

vs.

87.6 16yo 1983/2000 (57%, SMWS Society Cask): nose: the nose is pretty closed, and not much comes out -- even alcohol is muted. Very faint jams, marmalade, even, ashy hearths. At last, marzipan and baked apple struggle through the nasal canal. Is there a metallic note, too? Mouth: green chilli in custard, souped-up custard creams, a pinch of hawthorn or oregano, nigella seeds on marmalade, citrus chutney. This is intense, in the mouth. Finish: big, spicy (nigella seeds, dried chilli), vaguely musty. Dried leather, hay and hot marmalade, or caramelised apricot compote. Scary stuff! 8/10

Bowmore 25yo 1973/1998 (51.2%, Blackadder, C#3174): nose: quite tame, but it has some smoke and an underlying layer of squashed raspberry, as well as candied cranberries, blood-orange paste, tamarind paste and raspberry-scented marzipan. Oh-ho! Will this be the best dram of the stay? Mouth: gently smoky raspberry coulis, caramelised raspberry and cranberry jams. It is rather spicy, too; the alcohol bites a little. Finish: the raspberry madness continues, joined by lingonberry compote, stewed pears and the subtlest smoke. Fruit turns yellow and more exotic (tinned peaches), if not quite tropical. A splash of raspberry vinegar completes the picture. Phwoar! Dram of the stay for JS. 9/10

dom666 has Royal Lochnagar John Begg (unknown ABV, OB, b. late-1930s)... because he can. Only a dram left of it after our passage, hint-hint. It is still a great mix of fruit and yesteryear's soot. Wonderful drop. 9/10

Miltonduff 23yo d.1973 (43%, Hart Brothers Finest Collection): nose: extremely floral, it also has faded leather, drying grass, sunflowers and a hint of wet cardboard. Mouth: soft, light and flowery again, with a milky texture. Dandelion broth, lemon juice and baked salmon fillets. Finish: more flowery goodness, with sunflowers, dandelions, buttercups, lemon juice sprinkled on custard, flower petals, custard-cream biscuits, lemon juice, and even delicate smoke. The acidity and the bitterness compete in the background. 8/10

Welcome, 2018

JS goes for a short nap and joins us for the last drop of the following couple.

Glenturret 20yo 1978/1998 (53.8%, Signatory Vintage imported by V.E.L.I.E.R., C#356, 196b, b#176): nose: earthy fruit, strawberry bubble gum, peach nectar, strawberry turnovers, almond paste, mocha sponge cake. Another amazing nose! Mouth: meow. This has strawberry coulis, soft bubble gum, pink marshmallow (lards, for the French speakers), raw choux dough. This is sweet and fruity, really lovely, with a pinch of spices -- ground rose petals, cassia bark, black pepper, paprika and cardamom powder. Finish: long, with a soft bitterness to it, it has more of that strawberry- or raspberry-bubble-gum goodness, crushed rose petals, marinated cassia bark and paprika. Fabulous dram! Unctuous, creamy, with just the right bitterness. Simply beautiful. 9/10

We are treated to live music by a couple with a guitar and a tambourine. They only play two songs. Unfortunately, one is by the Beatles, and I do not care for it.

Lochside 1981/2015 (46%, Gordon & MacPhail Rare Old, RO/15/07, 161b, AE/JBDI): this is for dom666, obviously; JS and I already know how good it is, since we had it two years ago. Nose: a touch of dusty books, then juicy mango, overripe peach, ground nutmeg and tree bark. Mouth: soft, fruity, peachy, creamy. Finish: an explosion of fruit, with creamy mango, banana, peach, overripe plum. Mostly yellow-flesh fruit. This is exceptional. Better than the first time, even. Dram of the stay, for me. 10/10

Food is served: it is the traditional day-three buffet with a baked salmon to die for as starter, then roast beef and gammon as mains. There are lots of accompaniments too, of course. No lamb, this year and, most annoyingly, no gratin dauphinois! :(

Starters

Oven-baked salmon and pasta salad

Roasted potatoes, parsnips, carrots, kale

Slicing the gammon

First serve

Second serve

The gammon is the donkey's bollocks, just like last year. The roasts are served with English mustard (eye-watering) or horseradish sauce (also rather hot). I chat at length with the cook, who recognises me from the previous years. I mention my morning adventure at sea to whoever cares to listen and am met with lots of admiration.

Looking back, it was the size of Cornwall

dom666 takes a slice of strawberry pavlova the size of his head, which amuses JS and me greatly. I am not too enthusiastic about the dessert myself (too much meringue) and complain that I should have gone for a third serving of the main instead. dom666 jokes that if I go for third after dessert, my legendary status here would be guaranteed until the end of times. I toy with the idea, but really, I am not hungry any longer. The food disappears before I can change my mind -- phew!

Back at the bar, the usual band of youths is playing folk music -- no accordionist, this year, but a flautist has joined. They get better and better as the years go and I like it a lot. It is a pity not many people stay to listen, though.

We have work to do at the same time.

Tamdhu 1971/2011 (43%, Gordon & MacPhail The MacPhail's Collection, AA/JDAD): nose: roast beef!? Yes. Pineapple juice sprinkled on char-grilled roast beef. The pineapple becomes louder as time passes. Mouth: powerful, surprisingly so, considering the ABV. High-octane pineapple, ginger, horseradish and meat juice, black tea and hot ginger. Finish: lots and lots of ginger, galangal shavings, cold black tea. This is bitter, drying and not exactly my thing. 6/10

vs.

Tamdhu 34yo 1969/2004 (40.2%, Duncan Taylor Peerless, C#7314, 253b, b#62): nose: waxy orange skins, pithy tangerine segments, discreet rosehip and then ginger rises. Orange rinds grow in intensity, over time, but the ginger remains. Mouth: this too is surprisingly hot for the low ABV. It has juicy peach, but then it is so smothered by ginger and galangal it is just too spicy. Unexpected. At second sip, it is less aggressive. In fact, it now feels weak and tired. Finish: warm, woody, gingery, galangal-y, with also lots of pepper, dried lemongrass and a pinch of ground coffee. 7/10

How disappointing, these two Tamdhus. dom666 blends the last drops of both together, and the result is better than the sum of its parts. The ginger is gone, leaving peach stones and a softer mouthfeel. Fruit and milk chocolate appear in the finish too.

Cannot win every time

Littlemill 12yo (54%, OB imported by F&G, b#0462): nose: wood, sawdust, ginger, galangal shavings. Crikey! Three in a row that are too spicy! Dust, shit in the loft... this is too woody, really. Dried orange peels turned blue and ground into a powder. With water, dusty oranges and gingery heat. Mouth: dust and gingery here too, with a little more fruit (dried tangerine segments) and fierce horsepower. With water, orange shines more and the ginger is more controlled. It is still hot though. Finish: ridiculously hot and astringent, gingery, biting, poorly integrated and dusty. Water helps more fruit come through, as well as chocolate, but it does not make it much more to my taste. I suspect this is the sort of bottles that gave Littlemill a bad reputation for so long. It is simply not enjoyable, according to tOMoH's taste. 5/10

Glenglassaugh 22yo 1978/2000 (48.6%, Cadenhead Authentic Collection imported by Preiss Imports, Sherry Wood): nose: coffee, OXO, oxtail broth, miso paste. This is a sherried nose, without a doubt! Mouth: heavily sherried too, with peppermint, liquorice allsorts and black-lace liquorice sweets. Finish: coffee and liquorice, heavily sherried and heavily woody. A decent dram, though I expected more. This is not dissimilar to the bottling for TWE's 10th Anniversary. 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, NB)

The bar is now deserted, leaving the band to play for a minimal audience (us three and the staff). Enjoyable nonetheless.

Coleburn-Glenlivet 17yo 1978/1995 (62%, Cadenhead Authentic Collection): nose: austere, powerful Cadenhead offering, with horse's hair, faded leather, lots of alcohol, old hay bales. Pine-forest freshness too, which is counter-intuitive, when one sees the first notes. Ink and... ginger, yep! Later yet, ash comes to the fore. Mouth: hot, but better balanced than some of the previous. However, the gingery heat cranks up, with a touch of fruit in the back and the green leaves of leeks. Odd. Finish: huge, warming, disinfecting, with burning citrus peels and lemon-flavoured boiled sweets. 7/10

Am I super-sensitive to ginger and wood, after supper? It feels odd that I note so much of it in so many drams in a row.

Glen Albyn 29yo 1979/2008 (56.5%, The Whisky Shop Glenkeir Treasures Cask Strength Selection, 208b): nose: caramelised marmalade, roasted pears, baked apples, wood stove, charcoal, brine, burning fox skin. Much later on, hot custard pierces through too. Mouth: grape-y, very powerful, but balanced, with hot embers, stewed prunes, puffed-rice crackers, roasted honey toasts, apricot liqueur and hazelnut shells. Finish: huge, it has prunes, sultanas, Smyrna and lots of alcohol, ink, ground apricot stones, boiling apricot compote. This is great, but too powerful to score higher than 8/10

There. We did the Inverness triplets in one day. Again.

Port Ellen 1982/2003 (60.5%, Robert Scott Scott's Selection): nose: a car's exhaust, hot engine, refined-but-strong peat smoke. Much later on, it is minty sweets, then back to earth. Later yet, cockles, fishing nets and a camp fire on the beach. Mouth: sharp and hot, very hot, with red chilli, spicy mussels, curried cockles and charred wood. Finish: it has the burning heat that the nose suggested, lots of smoke, a distinct sweetness and then roasted barley, which I like less. Good dram. The roasted barley makes it lose a point. 8/10

JS has gone to bed. We realise that the lad at the bar has been waiting, in case dom666 and I were to order something else -- which we will not, of course. We happily relieve him of his duties and bid each other good night. The stay has come to an end. We seem to have made up for the premature closure of the bar, last night. Today was long and intense.

31/12/2017 NYE drams at Dornoch Castle Hotel

We think long and hard before ordering our final (few) drams of 2017 -- which, by the way, was a great year, in terms of ze W. If you do not believe that, please read the various entries on this very blog.

Clynelish 1972/2016 (42.2%, Gordon & MacPhail Rare Old, RO/16/07, 267b): great collection, this, but the RRP is a bit steep for a punt, especially for a distillery I am not a fan of. Nice, then, to have a chance to try it. Nose: heavy sherry, at first, with encaustic and roasted coffee beans. Soon, yellow fruits appear, joined by beeswax, honey and the most minute smoke. Shortly therafter, tropical fruits enter the dance -- carambola (caramba! Again!?) and unripe maracuja. But yeah, tons of lovely wax. Raspberry and squashed berries are here too, with roseberry and happiness. Mouth: dry-ish, with coffee grounds and dry earth. And then softness takes over, with ripe peaches, fluffy dried apricots, dried mango slices and, here too, gentle smoke. Finish: similar notes, with the smoke mildly more pronounced, dry earth on a peat fire and soft, new rubber. The fruity cascade soon resumes. Oh! it is not a 1960s Bowmore, but it has lots of fresh fruit nonetheless -- white peach, green grapes, carambola. Amazing Clynelish. Is it £800 amazing? That is for you to decide. 9/10

PT makes an entrance at last. A short one; he is still in distillery attire, and obviously taking a quick break before making more liquid at the distillery. We exchange a few words and confirm we will see him tomorrow for a bit longer.

Port Ellen 28yo 1978/2006 (56.1%, Douglas Laing The Old & Rare Platinum Selection for the Whisky Shop, Sherry Cask, 212b): nose: a walk on the coast, with cockles, fishing nets, oysters and smoked mussels. The smoke is akin to a stove in a mechanic's workshop, and then a warm bakery, and then the hot engine of a fishing boat in the harbour. Finish: salted water, salty clams, gentle wood smoke. It dies out with dark coffee, custard and salted caramel. Wow. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, PT)

Teasing dom666 for falling into the mud, earlier:
JS: "Pity you soiled your trousers, dom666. I did too, but not in the same way..."

dom666 has the Convalmore 16yo 1962/1979 (80° PROOF/45.7GL, Cadenhead) that JS and I tried last year. He will decide it to be his dram of the stay.

Time for a shower and getting ready for tonight. Indeed, tonight is the six-course gala dinner, during which we switch to water.

Canapés -- smoked salmon and black pepper, fish mousse and a type of bruschetta

Fried haggis balls

The food is superb -- and plentiful. Our table mates are pleasant, and we have lots of fun.

Pan-seared wood pigeon
Celeriac purée
Wilted spinach
Seasonal berries & red wine jus

Dornoch distillery gin-cured Scottish salmon
Butter-poached langoustine tails
Roast fennel
Pickle beetroot
G&T sorbet

Champagne & raspberry sorbet
Sliced sugared plums

Chargrilled Scottish venison fillet
Pickled red cabbage
Smoked parsnip purée
Crushed toasted hawelnuts
Curly kale
Blackberry jam & red wine jus

Scottish cranachan
Honey parfait
Whisky flapjack biscuits
Raspberry purée
Mini meringues & toasted oats

Selection of Scottish cheeses
Truffle honey
Grapes
Celery
Apricot jam & biscuits

At the table next to ours sits the piper in full regalia. The usual piper is off sick; this young lad, here, stands in as a replacement. We are told how this ex-army guy always dreamt of piping the new year in. Tonight is his chance.

With dinner in, we all go out on the street, as the bar closes for a moment. The piper appears on top of the tower and plays his tune -- which seems unfashionably short; did he skip half of it? In any case, he gets a lot of cheers before the countdown is sung by the choir of people on the square -- and goes from 17 directly to 3. Lots of hiccoughs, tonight! The fireworks start. Boom. No singing Auld Lang Syne until much, much later on either.

Epic conditions, though

Start as you mean to go on, we keep saying, when in Dornoch. We need something suitable to welcome the new year.

I go for...

Glenlochy 1965/2002 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Rare Old, JB/AGE): I think this is my first 1960s Glenlochy. Nose: austere, old-school, with flint, gravel, tobacco and less-than-austere, lovely fruit. Time helps it reveal juicy fruit (peach, apricot, tangerine), though the austerity remains. Mouth: sparkly fruit juice, it has tangerine, blood orange, pink grapefruit, pomelo and marmalade. Finish: a subtle bitterness that reminds me of Alka-Seltzer and lots of fruit juice. Again, tangerine, pink grapefruit, blood orange and a drop of peach nectar too. The flinty note has all but gone, now. Killer dram, this! 9/10

JS has...

Tomatin 19yo 1976/1996 (55.9%, Cadenhead Authentic Collection): nose: ho-ho-ho! Exuberant tropical fruit (mango, avocado, papaya), overripe, almost decayed, with the acidity that goes along. Mouth: strong, peppery, still fruity, but also drying. The alcohol is frightening, and reminds me that, at a time, Cadenhead issued lots of things in which the alcohol was not so well integrated. Finish: peppery, strong, earthy, a little foxy and... Wham! Mango-juice kick in the teeth. Wonderful. 9/10

dom666 has Springbank 1993/2010 (46%, Moon Import, 236b), for which I take no further note: we had it last night.

Start as you mean to go on

The bar is very busy, and we retire to the lounge to savour our drams. Two of our table mates arrive. I offer them a dram of 125.55 10yo 2001/2011 Nursery Tea (60.4%, SMWS Society Single Cask, 2nd Fill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 304b), which they seem to like (ND and PT had it earlier too). They offer Isle of Jura 16yo (40%, OB). They apologise profusely for the difference in calibre, but really I like it quite a bit.
We have a lovely chat and share impressions of the night. We decide we need a refill, at some point around 1:45... and discover the bar is closed! What the deuce? In terms of "start as you mean to go on," let us hope that does not forecast a year of aborted tastings! :-)

Boom!

30/12/2017 Pre-NYE drams at Dornoch Castle Hotel

Third year in a row. \o/
dom666 has joined JS and me on this trip.

It has been a good day, we round it off with a few drams.

dom666 has Caperdonich 14yo d.1968 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice), which JS and I had last year.

Putachieside 12yo (43%, Cadenhead, b.1980s): oddly, I have never had a Putachieside before. Time to right that wrong. Nose: old-school scents, such as cork, lichen rotting wood and wild mushrooms. A drop of coffee and fox's skin complement that, yet the nose is rather subdued. Melted caramel grows in intensity and is joined, much later on, by discreet mango. Nice and subtle. Mouth: melted caramel, dark honey, yellow-flower broth. It becomes vaguely drying, behind the caramel. Perhaps it is salted caramel. Finish: caramel, walnut flesh, wax. This is nice! It would score one more point if it was a little more expressive. 7/10

Springbank 1993/2010 (46%, Moon Import, 236b): nose: not many things beat an old Springbank. This has Chinese gooseberries, carambola, perhaps a hint of jasmine, fresh, untanned leather (the fringed-jacket type). So fresh, this! Mouth: salty-fruit-juice debauchery. Acidic Chinese gooseberry, unripe pineapple, sliced carambola. Excellent indeed. Later, a creamier mouthfeel settles in. Finish: the same fruity extravaganza is now joined by custard and creamy butterscotch. It still has the vague acidity or bitterness of unripe fruit (carambola, this time), but this dram spells out 'perfection' almost, well, perfectly. Almost. 9/10

Canapés are served: salmon and black pepper on crackers and fried haggis balls.

Oban 13yo b.1990 (62%, OB The Manager's Dram, Sherry Cask): my own bottle of this was lost in transit a few years ago, so I welcome this opportunity to try it, after all. Nose: old-school richness with a mix of encaustic, white fruit and a gentle austerity. It has dusty books and orange rinds, then pear yoghurt, custard, brine and sugar. The nose is tentalising, but where is the sherry? Is this a seventeenth refill? Mouth: powerful, peppery, annihilating. It has citrus and pepper, and certainly does not live up to the nose. At second sip, dried apricot appears, but the pepper is huge, cloaking. Finish: enormous, earthy and coastal, with fishing nets, sea salt and an undeniable alcohol kick (no, seriously). Cork and dried apricot both show up. The alcohol burn dissipates and leaves dry sherry dryness. Enthralling nose, the rest is less convincing. But the nose!... 8/10

Talisker 17yo b.2011 (55.2%, OB The Manager's Dram, b#1011): this being dom666's favourite (supermarket) distillery, he wants to try it now and be done with it. Nose: very coastal, with drying fishing nets, smoked mussels, peat smoke -- much more than in the regular offerings, in fact. Mouth: another big one, it has lots of horsepower, peppery honey, peppery pepper, burning charcoal. The lick of honey is really welcome. Actually, it is what keeps it interesting, in my opinion. Without it, that would be a peat burner. Finish: big, long, honeyed and peppery. It has some of the smoked mussels, a touch of peat, but not much. It is a good Talisker, but shhhh! Do not tell dom666 I said that. 8/10

The bar manager (NB) gives us a sip of Glen Garioch 21yo d.1973 (43%, OB), which he calls the poor man's Brora. It is in the same vein as my own, screen-printed bottle, that looks more recent, but maybe is not. This one here makes no sense: it is a 1994/1995 bottling, but 750ml, which suggests it is for the US market; however, the strength is in % ABV, not in US ° Proof. Puzzling.

After that interlude, we have supper, then resume our activities.

Chicken-liver parfait	Salmon salad
Sweet potato and coconut soup
Chicken suprême with smoked ham	Roasted salmon
Selection of cheeses. The blue on the right is called: blue murder.	Sticky toffee pudding

Springbank 30yo 1967/1997 (52%, Blackadder, C#1561): nose: as the earlier Moon Import, this is bursting with fruit -- Chinese gooseberry, carambola, even raspberry, here, -- and then ash and soot show up. The carambola dominates, though -- that is starfruit, for those who do not remember. Mouth: a fruity number here too, with finely-ground white pepper, sawdust, pulped carambola and gentle marmalade. Finish: again, a fine mix of fruit (fresh and jammy), sawdust and milled pepper. It is quite strong, making the finish very, very long. 9/10

vs.

Springbank 1950--1978/1996 (54.7%, Thompson Bros, 47b): most will know the story of this, by now. In a nutshell: the sons of the hotel's proprietors bought a flagon of Springbank, which contained a vatting of different vintages between 1950 and 1978. All came from the Springbank distillery, and they had all the documentation to prove it. What the Scotch Whisky Association thinks of those dates being written on the label matters little: after all, this is not available for sale. Nose: an unsubtle sherry influence, with coffee, old leather, dry earth, walnut oil and walnut shells. Soft fruit lies behind all that (soaked prunes, dates and figs), but the dominant is the dryer sherry influence. With time, the coffee quietens down. Mouth: woody, drying, acrid, bitter. All the same, it is not bad. It retains the coffee (as in: coffee-stained earth), dried fruit and leather (recently-polished shoes). It is a bit too much for me, though. It is also rather strong and heavy on the pepper. Oxidation helps prunes and soaked sultanas come out more. Finish: prunes and dried fruits, wood lacquer, coffee and, well, drying wood. Lots of time seem to make it fruitier. This is past its prime, to me. Interesting, maybe emotional for some, but taken over by the wood and the sherry. Pity. Forty-five minutes of breathing does it good, though, and improves the score. As is, it is 6/10

This year, we spot a Baltimore oriole.
Probably lost on his migration path.

I ask what the music is that is playing. The waitress tells me Cigarettes After Sex. Probably a bit premature, considering she just met me. :-)