31/07/2020 Finishing July with two summery whiskies from Dufftown

The heat is back -- again. :-(

Kininvie 23yo 1991/2015 (42.6%, OB, American Hogsheads & Sherry Casks, B#3): is this the first Kininvie on this blog?  Kind of. There is one other meagre note, but it is for the same liquid. Nose: a wave of vanilla at first, which leans towards butterscotch and toffee, but it turns out that butterscotch is accompanied by linseed oil. In fact, oil becomes a permanent fixture, with walnut oil, -- wait a minute! No! It is shaving cream and cologne... and back to vanilla; custard, to be precise. Funnily enough, the vanilla merely triggers another merry-go-round, as we soon have more oil, then male-grooming items. A dash of lemonade is added into the mix, and also fudge, Chinese-gooseberry skins and the crystallised fruit flesh -- how entertaining! Time and breathing seem to let citrus shine brighter, grapefruit style, yet it never shakes off the shaving cream or balm. It adds wood pulp to the above, though. Mouth: well, it feels a lot woodier on the palate, with more-pronounced wood pulp, papier mâché, crushed Chinese gooseberry and a drop of lime juice. Peach yoghurt, flat lemonade and dusty magazines, in the back of the throat, white chocolate, peanut brittle in custard, linseed oil -- scratch that: it is cashew oil, a dash of almond milk... It has some bitterness and acidity, yet both are anecdotal. Finish: mellow, gentle, it is all squashed peaches in a mix of custard and wood pulp. Pleasant, refreshing and soft like triple-layer toilet paper (hopefully less of an ecological nonsense). Very late, it kind of has remnants of the citric acidity of the nose and palate, but really, it is as velvety as can be. Melted toffee, flan, banoffee, a drop of cashew oil, blanched hazelnut flakes (or is it almond?) and macadamia shavings. Very good. It did not shine at a festival, but it is brilliant on its own. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, SW)

Wardhead 20yo 1997/2018 (51%, The Vintage Malt Whisky Co. The Cooper's Choice, Bourbon Cask, C#28, 384b): first Wardhead, here. The name is used to designate tea-spooned Glenfidddich. Nose: a bit spirit-y and leathery in a "we're flaying cows here" sort of way. As soon as that dissipates (and it doesnae take long), it turns out to be very citric indeed, with pomelo, unripe lime and bergamot in a light wicker basket. A headier note shows up, not quite incense, but it certainly reminds me of that kind of new-age-shop vibe. Perhaps natural soap? Scented candle? Yes, that is it. I would be unable to say what kind of scent, however. Gentle beeswax, peach skins and waxy apricots, maybe, if they make candles and soap out of that (do they?) Later sniffing reveals dead leaves on a damp forest floor, though we are far from humus and mushrooms, still. Caramelised butterscotch shows up too. Mouth: just as mellow as the Kininvie, for a second, it quickly shows its strength. However, it does so with velvet gloves on. Conference pears, sprinkled with ground pepper, more butterscotch than one can shake a stick at, bitter lemonade and toffee. Perhaps the palate is a little more cereal-y than the nose, with dried oats, husks and iron tonic -- actually: iron full stop! Yes, silver spoons and knife handles flirt with hazelnut milk and citrus peel (calamansi or satsuma; nothing too acidic). Finish: back to mellow and velvety, the finish sees peach flesh, just torn off the stone, apricot yoghurt, squashed banana, drizzled with white rum. This finish is very long too. The flavours quietly dance on the mouth walls forever, even though one has to pay attention to realise they are there -- but they are. In the long run, it emits vaguely nutty touches, with blanched hazelnut, ground macadamia, hazelnut milk and calamansi, which is a citrus, not a nut, but do not interrupt me. I suppose that, if one looks hard enough, one may find oat milk, leading to lukewarm porridge with honey, but that is discreet and a half. Much better than I expected, but I am not sure what I expected or why. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, Bishlouk)

26/07/2020 One Miltonduff

Miltonduff 15yo 1995/2011 (56.3%, Gordon & MacPhail Reserve imported by Classic Wines Imports for Park Avenue Liquor Shop, 1st Fill Bourbon Barrel, C#9461, 198b, AA/ABBB): nose: wood and burnt wood, hessian sacks used to carry logs to the fireplace, and, let us not beat about the bush, sulphur. Matchbox strikers, spent matches, exhaust fumes from a diesel engine, cordite, spent fireworks, charred plums, and a few vegetative whiffs to complement that (marsh gas, stagnant water, cabbage cooking water). This is clearly not for everyone. After a while, it does welcome husky and fruity notes, such as pot ale and charred orange peel, yet it is a rather challenging nose, this. With water, only the sulphur seems to persist, mineral and austere; brimstone, elemental sulphur, hot sands, dry linen. Mouth: different story on the palate, where orange, blood orange and grapefruit compete for attention, perhaps rinsed with a few drops of peach nectar... and fire! This is strong, though not exactly spicy. It is hard to describe. I find Jaffa Cakes (the lesser PiM's), orange drops, banana rum and preserved strawberries. I suppose the sulphur from the nose is there, but it is subtle, almost beyond recognition. A little charred-wood gratings, maybe? Artichoke, rose-petal jelly, fierce grapefruit juice. With water, the alcohol cools down, but so does everything else. Diluted orange-and-grapefruit juice. I cannot say it is a good swimmer! Finish: yes, charred-wood gratings, a diesel-engine's exhaust fumes, cordite, yet they take a back seat to blood orange and grapefruit. This is powerful, citric, unforgiving. A lick of culinary chocolate, melted in the microwave oven and slightly burnt, burnt toast, strong liquorice, hot tobacco ash. Water increases the chocolate note and adds liquorice-root shavings and aniseed to make it an earthier effort. The citric acidity is still present, if less pronounced. I like this better than previously. The nose is still as unwelcoming for me. That said, I know people who would love it. It redeems itself on the palate and in the finish, in my opinion. 7/10

25/07/2020 Two Longmorns to cheer up a dreary day

It is one of those Saturdays that feel like a bad Sunday. My mood is accordingly bad.

Longmorn 29yo 1985/2015 (51.9%, Hunter Laing Old & Rare A Platinum Selection imported by DJK Imports for K&L Wines, Refill Hogshead, 251b, L15 194 PB OAR0243): nose: sharp and spirit-y, it has some fruit (quince jelly and waxy citrus skins -- unripe citrus), solvents (acetone, cellophane, latex paint) and a drop of pine essence. Then, it changes to unveil damp bung cloth, wet cork and hay in hessian sacks. In a matter of minutes or two, it morphs again, and this time, it is to reveal cereals (warm oats, pot ale, puffed rice). In the end, a small quantity of dry white wine joins the party too (Riesling, probably), hand in hand with caramelised apricot in a leather pouch. After the first sip, the nose offers plastic caps (used to hold saffron) and oilskins. Mouth: very sharp, edgy, even, it cuts the tongue neatly and deeply, pours lime juice onto the flesh wound, then rubs ground white pepper into it. Peppery grapefruit, a hint of warm cellophane here too, ginger-and-cinnamon bubble gum (the brown Boule Magique, for the 1980s kids amongst the readership), American cream soda, unripe gooseberries and greengages. It is quite difficult to tame. Fortunately, it makes me salivate profusely, which helps attenuate the sharpness. The second sip is fruitier, even if said fruits (orange, satsuma, greengage) are not very ripe. Finish: hot and spicy here too, with a newfound  bitterness to boot (crushed bay leaf). Ground white pepper, nutmeg, crushed cardamom, pine needles and tree bark (larch or cedar), sawdust... It is very woody, yes. The first sip has delicate milk chocolate, but it is short-lived. The second sip is all about wood. I so want to like this one more. It is good enough, just not a fantastic cask, and I find it a stretch to think of it as an Old & Rare Platinum. 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)

Longmorn-Glenlivet 21yo (46%, Cadenhead, b. ca 1990): nose: it is a completely unfair match. From the get-go, this is bursting with tropical fruit; papaya, mango snakehead fruit, dragon fruit, lychee, jack fruit, decaying pineapple and maracuja, persimmon and pink grapefruit. Next to that ridiculous display, a pouch of Virginia tobacco, a bottle of Anjou rosé wine, apples and pears, soaked in sangria, a mahogany chest of drawers, fig relish, and some flowers too: lilac, bulrush, honeysuckle. Strangely enough, the fruits lose steam, whilst the flowers gain momentum. It only takes a bit of swirling the glass to bring the fruits back, though -- phew! In the back of the nose, a discreet, earthy note catches on too, but yeah! Total destruction by fruit, innit. Mouth: soft, mildly pickled, it soon reassures me that it has lost none of its power to the angels. Peppermint, laurel leaves, money-plant leaves (that is crassula ovata convoluta, for the botanists), leeks or green onions... and then it begins again -- peppery papaya, dragon fruit, snakehead fruit, stale pineapple, a dash of pink-grapefruit juice, chewing tobacco, calf book-bindings done yesterday, tonic, pine drops, flowering currants -- rhaaaaaaaa! How good is this? Finish: a little less fruity in the finish, it has the same peppermint, this time augmented with liquorice root, bay leaves, a freshly-cut suede jacket, pine resin, lilac and green tomatoes. Oh! It does still bring some tropical action, with dragon fruit, sweet lemon, Chinese gooseberry, unripe pomelo, lime zest and aromatic tobacco, all drowned in a river of tonic, slightly bitter and quinine-like. 9/10

And the winner is...

The one with the dodgy fill level.
No wonder I needed reassurance!

21/07/2020 Belgium National Day

Ô Belgique, ô mère chérie,

À toi nos cœurs, à toi nos bras,

À toi notre sang, ô Patrie!

Nous le jurons tous, tu vivras!

Tu vivras toujours grande et belle

Et ton invincible unité

Aura pour devise immortelle:

Le Roi, la Loi, la Liberté!

Nationalism is for insecure children, but a bit of patriotism does not hurt. What will it be?

Goldlys? No.
Carolus? Negative.
Belgian Owl? Nein.
Dailuaine? Yes. Belgians like Dailuaine. At least, the Belgians I know do. :-)

Dailuaine 16yo (43%, OB, L0343LS000 00039534, b. 2010): nose: I always remember this as not only the best in the colloquially-known Flora & Fauna range (admittedly, I have never tried the Speyburn), but as a perfect sherry maturation. A whiff of it and I can see why I have that impression! Leather, shoe polish, exotic wood (teak, mahogany, redwood, ebony) and dried fruits (raisins, dates, figs, cranberries soaked in Cognac), nut oil (Brazil, nut, macadamia), a touch of chocolate and wood varnish (carbonyl style). The second nosing might bring what one would identify as frying egg white (a touch of sulphur, I guess), though one would have to look really hard for it. Mouth: the sherry speaks again, with just a murmur of barbecued meat that is completely overpowered by juicy sultanas, dried dates, mince pies, dark chocolate and chocolate coulis. Repeated sipping cranks up the wood oils (teak), posh furniture wax and shoe polish. The more I sip it, the nuttier I find it, with almond milk (including the bitter skin), Brazil-nut paste, ground walnuts -- but always hand in hand with raisins. Finish: unsurprisingly, the finish gathers all the above (dried fruits, nuts and wood oils, shoe polish and subtle chocolate) and adds a drop of coffee to keep it varied and exciting. It has a clear sweetness to it, whether it is Pedro Ximénez sherry or Port, marmalade-glazed or honey-coated nuts, it is very noticeable. Look, it is not overly complex, right? But boy! does it do what it does well. I could easily drink this all night. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)

Dailuaine 17yo 1996/2014 (56.9%, A.D. Rattray Cask Collection, Bourbon Hogshead, C#10622, 281b): similar age, but aged in Bourbon, this time -- and of course, this one is a single cask, bottled independently. Nose: amusingly enough, this one appears much meatier than its sherried counterpart; faded leather, white meat (pork roast or chicken breast), musk. It is only a few seconds until that meat makes room for hay and cereals, however: roasted barley, hops, oats, and what appears to be a faint smoky touch. That dissipates in favour of sunny farmlands (crusted earth in the fields), horse's hair, then back to smoke (think: pizza oven) and... cooked vegetables (broccoli? Really?) Baked-potato skins, nail varnish -- woah! Wait a minute! When did this become so rich? It even has a pinch of warm beach sand. Latterly, lemon trees appear (I wonder how, I wonder why), citric, fruity, fragrant, refreshing. In fact, that morphs into a pleasant calamansi sorbet. Mouth: warm and creamy, it has red chilli and sweet paprika on smashed banana, pouring honey, lemonade, bitterly-unripe mandarin -- in fact, the bitterness is bordering on pickled gherkins. The strength is hard to ignore too. From the second sip on, it is clear that this is in the high fifties, and the chilli is joined by grated ginger and lemongrass, as well as that calamansi sorbet, which has now melted (or is it Sicilian lemon instead of calamansi? I love it, in any case). Finish: here too, it is an infernal carousel of flavours -- a carousel that spins so fast it is hard to figure out what is happening. Lemonade, unripe mandarin, sweet chilli, hot-as-fook smashed banana, dry farmland, toasted barley and barley drops, horse's hair, roasted potatoes, but also butterscotch, hot caramel and crushed bay leaves, which are rather drying, in the long run. The sorbet is still there too, though it is lime sorbet, now. And it has melted completely. And someone is heating it up on the fire. And it WORKS. This unassuming dram has turned into something quite special, after a few years of breathing in an open bottle! 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)

Even if the 17 is great, I stand by my judgement: the 16yo OB remains one of the best Dailuaines bottled that side of thirty years of age.

20/07/2020 Random pair #2

Glenmorangie Artisan Cask (46%, OB, White Oak First Fill Hogsheads, b.2005, L5 244 15:57 4ML): this one is a matter of pride for adc, who discovered it at Whisky Live! Verviers in 2006, where it was kept under the counter. She persuaded the guy at the stall to let her try it, raved about it and introduced everyone in the group to it. Nose: the cask speaks loudly (it is the point), but it is not all vanilla either. Sure, there are salted shortbread, custard powder, glycerine, fudge, toffee, pâtes de fruits gone slightly stale and ginger biscuits. Next to all that is an almost metallic note, a knife's edge, probably. Then, digestive biscuits, tinned corn, spreading honey, drying out in the cupboard, beeswax-imbibed rags, left in the toolbox for months... Yes, it has a honeyed/waxy side, but that side is not lush, that is certain. The whisky is not austere either, mind! Sweet barley and cooked swedes, maybe even sweet potatoes. Further nosing shows sweet paprika and allspice. Mouth: relatively crisp, it has more-pronounced honey on the tongue than in the nose; mead, pouring honey, yet also milk-soaked white bread, and the expected vanilla-y cavalcade of custard , butterscotch, flan, fudge, toffee, even, with just a pinch of ginger powder. Cinnamon-and-ginger biscuits shape up, adding a welcome dimension. Unsalted butter, frothing in the pan, and a spoonful of dried hops, too. Finish: mellow, yet warming (well done LVMH for bottling this at 46%), it is very much a toffee whisky -- think Quality Street's Toffee Penny. Rich fudge, sumptuous custard and caramel augment a lovely swede mash, topped with a dollop of pouring honey and a pinch of ginger powder. Parts of the finish hint at iron tonic, though it is hard to understand why. A gentle bitterness, maybe? Yes. It comes from buttercups -- the petals and a millimetre of stem. tOMoH has had the pleasure of trying a few things, in the fourteen years since this hit the shelves, yet, despite all the unfair comparisons this could suffer from, it remains a thoroughly enjoyable dram. Well done adc for discovering it and sharing the word. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)

Macduff 24yo 1984/2008 (46%, Signatory Vintage for Direct Wines First Cask, C#877, b#215, L08/498): nose: this one immediately has an earthy profile, with Virginia tobacco and dry, dusty earth, yet also berries aplenty: lingonberry, blueberry, cloudberry, billberry, cranberry, sweet and tart at the same time. Is that baked banana skins? Pencil eraser? But of course! In fact, I may go as far as inky blotting paper, here, even if it is a little too juicy for that. The nose has this juicy and vaguely smoky combination that works particularly well for me. In the long run, blood orange and squashed raspberry surface, stewing in a pot. Later, marzipan, Brazil-nut paste, roasted-peanut paste, and maybe, far back, a notion of shower gel. One would be silly to call this a soapy whisky, though. Mouth: here, it is all soft apricot flesh and cold lingonberry compote, at first, before some cranberry jam and smoked-billberry curd (a nod to Roland Casper, for those who know) join, followed by melted bitter chocolate and hessian sacks full of fresh Virginia tobacco. The second sip adds mocha to the mix, more of a mocha butter cream than coffee. Piping-hot pouring honey, distant scorched earth, crusty mudflats after a drought, yet also hot fudge, straight off the baking tray, and salted caramel. Finish: it is a little explosion of flavours, here. All coating the mouth are coffee grounds, grated dark chocolate, tobacco, caramelised apricot compote, lingonberry compote, hessian, linseed oil and cod-liver oil. It has the acidity of sour berries, the bitterness of liquorice root (a tiny quantity), the earthiness of a dry field, the richness of mocha-y fudge, and even a chemical touch of hair lacquer. A charred, tarry note grows with each sip too, never becoming a nuisance. This is simply beautiful, to speak plainly. A tight-arsed 8 that could become a 9 in other circumstances. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)