The Moray trio. Kind of.Glen Moray-Glenlivet 24yo 1992/2017 (50.9%, Cadenhead Small Batch, 3xBourbon Hogsheads, 684b): this seems to have become a belated best-seller at Cadenhead's London shop. Nose: it is shy, with hay bales, at first, strangely enough. It soon opens up with squashed strawberries, rosewood, heather buds, unripe berries (elderberries, blackcurrants). The whole is ethereal and perfume-y -- fragrant, without being intrusive. In one word: elegant. The back nose reminds me of Terre d'Hermès. Weird. That would mean a pinch of ash, a fistful of earth and men deodorant. It works. Mouth: lively palate, it has a bite. Green chilli, thorny brambles, hazel, pistachio shells, but also strawberries, squashed on a slice of toasted bread... with salt. A lot of salt, in fact. I cannot remember finding so much salt in a dram before. Finish: similar touches, here; hazel, squashed strawberries on toast, salt and ash. It ends with a salty-bitter note that lingers on for a long time. Good dram. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, SW)
Glendullan-Glenlivet 20yo 1996/2017 (52.4%, Cadenhead Wine Cask, Château Laffite Cask Finish, 252b): this 'dullan, finished in a wine cask since July 2009, was apparently named best Scottish single-cask single malt by a Jim Moray (see what I did, there?) in his latest Whisky Bible, much to my mate BC's satisfaction, who could not repress an I-told-you-so moment on social media. Nose: this one does not hide its pedigree: it is earth and wine to the brim, almost masking ripe fruits (apples, strawberries again, decaying pears). It also has unripe rhubarb, autumn leaves, ink, spilled on the forest floor. Later, it is leather that appears, with rotten grapes and more earth. Mouth: tannic, it has unsweetened blackberry jam, raisins, the dryness of a good Claret, and the fruitiness that goes with it. It also has enough of a kick to please those who like a little alcohol burn. The texture is that of unsweetened jam, pleasantly enough. Finish: wonderful wine maturation, with lots of raisins, dried prunes and figs, earth and new leather belts, as well as lingenberry compote. Very complex and very well made. This is the donkey's! Good pick, Jim! 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, SW)
Glen Mhor 1982/2017 (50.8%, Cask Sample for Cadenhead's 175th Anniversary Dinner, C#1352): if you read this blog regularly, you will remember this Glen Mhor-ay is the sample from the dinner that closed the Campbeltown festival, in May. Nose: sugar and coal, yellow flowers and crayons, wax and metal polish. It grows in intensity and becomes rather powerful a nose, if not quite stripping. Pencil eraser, ether, and even freshly-cut hazelwood. Milk coffee shows up, in the end, mocha, as well as dried pomelo and lime peels. The nose keeps oscillating between austere, old-school Highlander and robust, but fruity Speysider. Mouth: sharp and hot like a lit candle, it has the hot wax of the candle too, brambles, hot honey, disinfectant and boiled sweets (purple ones). Keep it in the mouth for a few minutes and the boiled sweets become bolder. Bold sweets, innit. Citrus peels end up appearing here too, and it is a small wonder to have the softness of warm custard and the acidity of lime under one house. Finish: long, warming, with wax and a memory of soot in another room. The more one sips it, the more soot comes out -- certainly enough to fill a bucket, after all. The finish has remnants of the boiled sweets, and, half a dram and thirty minutes in, it is citrus that shines brighter and brighter. Marvellous dram! Glad I saved some to savour later, as it is much better today, with time, attention, and cooler weather. 9/10
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