6 August 2019

04/08/2019 Two Highland Parks

Highland Park 29yo 1989/2018 (40.6%, Cadenhead Single Cask, Bourbon Hogshead, 198b): this one, I remember liking a lot in the outturn. On its own, will it stand out? Nose: initially, it is a combination of green olives in brine, olive oil and plump green grapes. As it opens up, maritime aromas become evident: cockles and whelks, glazed in dark honey. There is also a faint whiff of smoke, though it is more incense than bonfire, more orchard-fruit tea than Lapsang Souchong -- and that spells good news to me! Slightly later, the trademark heather appears, bright and recognisable. Lavender too? Mmmh! Maybe. Bubble gum and merbromin, Haribo and old rags complete the picture. Mouth: very floral on the palate, it is full-on heather and lavender, augmented with honey, though it is lighter, this time around. A dash of crushed ivy leaves, a couple of pressed grapes ... one can almost hear the bees buzzing by! The last note on the tongue is fresh as yellow cherry tomatoes. Finish: meow! This is simply excellent, with all the heather and honey from previously, alongside a more-pronounced smoky touch to complement; soot, coal, peat-baked salmon. It is not all, however: a fruity-if-bitter side rounds it off. Tangerine pith, crystallised mandarin segments and distant pineapple drops. What a wonderful dram! 9/10 (Thanks for the sample, SW)

Highland Park 30yo 1988/2018 (49%, Cadenhead Authentic Collection, Bourbon Hogshead, 270b): nose: hm. I fear this one is spent. There was little left in the sample; perhaps too little. It does wake up a little, giving out graver notes of almost-faded lavender, heather not in season, steamed lotus leaves...oh! Overripe, almost rotting melon skins, the most minute mossy smoke (fresh peat) and, just maybe, a soft, maritime feel. Some breathing time makes it leafier, with ivy and vine, or laurel leaves. Mouth: it does feel spent and weak, considering the higher ABV, but it is not mute. Several types of liquid honey (manuka, acacia), rose-petal jam, Bourbon-infused sweet marmalade, dessert wine, Montbazillac style, Turkish delights. This is nice. It turns rather sweet, as my notes might suggest. Pâtes de fruits, Chinese gooseberry -- boy! This is sweet and fruity on the tongue. Finish: well, it has not lost anything here, that is certain! Soft, sweet and honey-glazed, it has a note of burnt wood, shallow-fried peach slices, poached pears, baked rhubarb. Here too, there is a leafy aspect to it (bergamot foliage, clementine leaves), but the undying note is that of marvellous liquid honey. I feared I would not be able to score this, but fortunately, it seems it only needed to breathe for a bit. The leafy notes make it less enjoyable to me than its younger sibling, but it remains very good regardless. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, SW)

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