27 April 2020

25/04/2020 Apéritif

Freestyling a pre-dinner session on this warm April afternoon. It may only be one dram, in the end. Let me see how it goes...

Knockando 20yo 1974/1995 Quincentenary (43%, OB specially selected for Aberdeen University): a low ABV, but an auburn-coloured robe that might make this dram less discreet than expected. Nose: a reasonably-bold nose, full of molasses and prune syrup. The initial whiff seemed to have a burnt-wood note, but it is nowhere to be found, after that. On the other hand, the nose delivers a cascade of dried fruits (dried figs, sultanas, mince pies, dried apricots, dried cranberries) and associated pastry (unbaked Dundee cake, pre-oven Selkirk bannock, kramiek). Over time, it develops a jammier edge, with strawberry jam and smoked-apricot jelly. Mouth: softish without being weak, the reduction is apparent for an instant, but the whisky soon grows in power, with delicate wood spices (ground ginger and nutmeg). The palate is thin, orange juice-like in texture (no pulp) and presents similar dry fruits to the nose's (figs, raisins, apricots), though this time, they are joined by citrus zest and mixed peel. Pan-seared pineapple chunks, caramelised and juicy, sprinkled with red-chilli flakes. Finish: no softness here; the finish almost feels full strength, wide and bold. Smoked-apricot jelly, mixed peel again, sultanas and prunes, caramel, caramelised onions, and the pineapple makes a comeback too, shallow-fried in a pan until brown. Peach slices, searing in sizzling butter, ground orange peel and a pinch of ginger powder. Not much distillery character to see here, I suppose, but a good sherry maturation for this lesser-seen spirit. 7/10

Miltonduff 8yo 2009/2018 (46%, The Vintage Malt Whisky Company The Cooper's Choice, Madeira Cask Finish, C#881, 300b): nose: a big whiff of coconut oil (or it is my fingers? I just cut a coconut open...), buttery Brazil-nut paste, rapeseed oil, polished exotic wood (teak or mahogany), pouring honey, ... It smells oily, buttery and sticky, and that is well pleasant. The second nosing is woodier than it is nutty, with furniture wax and pine sap and freshly-cut birch logs. Marmalade on toast arrives a little later, preserved lemons, orange-blossom water. After the first sip, the nose adopts a mouldy-peach note that is rather pleasant (yes, really). Mouth: it is still nutty, though it is the skin of the nuts that comes through, at this point (who said: 'nutsack'?) Brazil-nut skins, almond skins, that hard skin on a coconut, between the shell and the flesh, oily and softly bitter. Yes, it does stay oily and there is an added drop of fortified  wine, at this stage, dry and heady. Madeira, surely? Finish: oh! but this is lovely. The finish is in line with the nose and palate, nutty oily and vaguely wine-y (though less and less vaguely, the more one drinks it). Perhaps chocolate does join in to boot. It does feel less strong than on the palate -- well balanced, in fact. It is not too complex, but a decent dram alright. I can picture this going down a storm as an everyday dram with many enthusiasts I know. 7/10 (Thanks for the sample, Bishlouk)

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