In this nth heatwave, the North Pole feels like a good place to be (of course, it is not; do not go think I am encouraging you to go spoil the place). The closest in the whisky world is, of course, North Port. Will it bring the needed freshness?
North Port-Brechin d.1970 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice, b. ca 1990): no bottling code, so it is likely the 1990 bottling, rather than the 1991. Nose: a wooden crate of orchard apples, fermenting away in a cellar and becoming quite pungent. Apple mash, before it is turned into cider, then a distinct wave of cooked vegetables (mashed potatoes, swedes, boiled sprouts), just a drop of some kind of vinegar, and pickled onions. Soon thereafter, it is bagged bread (Hovis style) turning mouldy (still soft, though), nail-varnish remover, and, finally, a whiff of woody tones -- wormwood, old, crumbling staves, decomposing bark, incense ash and vinegar-stained soil. The cider apples come back on top, yet they are no longer a solo act. Time brings out sulphur-y oranges, closer to matchbox striker than rotten egg. And what is this? Heather? You bet! Mouth: soft, mellow in texture, it is propelled by chopped fresh green pepper that hits the sides of the tongue like razor blades. Apples may be there, yet it is spicier than the nose suggested, which overshadows the fruit; lemongrass, galangal powder, asa foetida and mace all swirl and giggle on the palate, and bring musty cardboard and wormwood-crippled wooden chairs to the fore. Cedar-wood splinters, peppermint and growing cinnamon. Finish: pretty big, it has the recurrent apples (this time in a quite a state of decay), the crumbly wood, tree bark, soaked cork, damp soil, peppermint -- maybe closer to Fisherman's Friend, now. In fact, the finish sees its fair share of toasted flavours, such as aniseed and roasted malt, perhaps even a percolator, or a wet coffee filter, full of damp coffee grounds. Cinnamon ends up appearing on the finish too, refreshing and lively. North Port does not benefit from a great reputation, in general. This here dram is a bit particular, I suppose, but I would certainly not call it bad. 7/10
North Port 23yo 1971/1995 (54.7%, OB Rare Malts Selection): nose; a punch in the face, this, with wormwood-eaten furniture and apple-cider vinegar aplenty. Further than that, it is hard to tell, as the nose is pretty closed. Perhaps mulch? Gingery yoghurt? Let us give it a little time... Vinegar-stained earth it is, for this one too, verdigris, spilled vinegar, as well as more herbaceous notes of coumarin, sage and hay bales. Later on, it is jute bags full of earth and straw, too dry to be called farm-y. Brine, salty and sort of desiccating. With water, it does become farmier, reeking of ploughed fields and rocky earth, yet also line-drying laundry. Mouth: flint, gravel, pebbles, and that is before mentioning the terrifying strength! Who knew 54.7% could be so merciless? It makes for an austere and intimidating dram, that is for sure, like Fisherman's Friends turned to eleven. All the same, and behind that austerity, I detect hints of apple and lichen on very old wood. The second sip tries to be juicy, with apple juice and pine sap, but it is quickly submerged by a dry-herb wave of sage, rosemary and hay barns, with just a pinch of crushed, dry mint. It is still potent, too! Water tames it somewhat, makes it fresh, gives it apple-mint lozenges, pine sap, apple drops and even raspberries to augment what is now merely a mild, earthy austerity. Finish: unexpectedly, the finish seems mild-mannered, compared to the neat mouth. It is not an easy, custard-y ride, obviously, yet it also does not tear your lower jaw off in a fit of rage. Verdigris, lichen on rock, gravel, apple pips, cider vinegar are the most identifiable characteristics. The second sip brings forth some mint and pine sap, yet if that forms a sort of gel, it is far from juicy, and is instead rather drying and unforgiving. Water does not change the finish much; perhaps more earth? Sightly more toasted? This is definitely not an easy dram, and it does benefit from water. For pugnacity, it deserves... 8/10
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