4 September 2020

03/09/2020 Glenmorangie Madeira

Only one dram, today. I have found it hard to muster up the motivation to do more, lately.


If my memory is correct, in the late 1990s, Glenmorangie released several whiskies that had been matured in "unusual" casks as an experiment. They worked well enough to integrate the core range in the early-to-mid 2000s. I believe what we are looking at today is the first incarnation of this Madeira Finish as a regular expression, rather than something more limited. The follow-up second incarnation, with the green-striped label, I thought was the best of its generation, which included Burgundy, Sherry and the popular Port finishes. This first one with the green livery, I cannot recall trying before.


Glenmorangie Madeira Wood Finish (43%, OB, 8327, b. ca 2000): nose: syrupy fortified wine, yet not a dark one -- I am thinking tawny Port or Fino Sherry, though probably sweeter than the latter. Sultanas, dried figs, dried apricots, white peach slices, nectarines. Then, out of nowhere, fresh, sappy notes appear; not quite pine drops, but it does smell as if someone vapourised mint toothpaste onto the fruits. Or is it fresh rosemary sprigs, perhaps? A couple of sniffs later, the toothpaste/rosemary goes away, replaced with walnut oil and raspberry vinegar. This nose is as seductive as it is interesting. A faint whiff of straw bales under a drizzle that just broke out, geranium, and then it magically goes back to walnut oil and syrupy wine. Mouth: good attack, despite the reduction (but of course, it is only my first dram), it has the dried fruits of the nose (figs, apricots and sultanas, re-hydrated, this time) and cracked green pepper on fresher fruits, such as white peaches and nectarines. The gums perceive a gentle woodiness that in no way detracts from the enjoyment; merely a pinch of ground galangal, sumac and ground cloves. The texture is that of a thick liqueurs, almost honey-like, and it is made almost sparkly by a distant touch f peppermint. Lovely. Finish: cigar leaves and fortified wine on steroids, sweet, robust, elegantly woody, voluptuous, warming and comforting. A notch of vanilla via retronasal olfaction too; toffee, butterscotch, sticky toffee pudding, and the subtle, drying character of bay leaves in a sauce. This is unashamedly moreish and, if it probably never did and never will change  anyone's life, for the 45 EUR such a bottle cost upon release, it seems remarkable value for money. 7/10 (Thanks for the sample, kruuk2)

No comments:

Post a Comment