30 October 2020

29/10/2020 Cadenhead's virtual tasting

A couple of weeks ago, a string of J & A Mitchell tastings was announced: Hazelburn, Kilkerran, Longrow, Cadenhead and Springbank. Sample packs were purchased and subsequently received. 2cl of six different drams, for this one. The tiny bottles are made of plastic (grrr), and they have immutable, built-in pipettes that makes it very easy to add drop by drop, but very difficult to pour a measure. I spend about fifteen minutes pouring the six drams. Grrr.



Cameron McGeachy, Jenna McIntosh and Lewis Anderson host this session on Youtube and Facebook -- which means it is ex cathedra, with an occasional pause to read selected comments.



Dram #1

Glenrothes-Glenlivet 23yo b.2020 (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, 60% Bourbon + 40% Sherry Casks): this is part of the recent outturn for the revamped Original Collection, a collection that had been dormant for twelve years. Its coming back to replace the Small Batch range was met with mixed reactions. Nose: rhubarb tart, custard and peach jelly, heading towards cherry bake, rich with custard growing thicker, almost curd-like. Mouth: it is the ideal continuation of the nose, with peachy jelly, sweet marmalade, and a slight bitterness that reminds me of flower petals. Finish: again, it has jams and yellow fruits, as well as a gentle mineral side. Very moreish. "Perfect starter," says LA, and he is right. 7/10


Dram #2

A Speyside Distillery 18yo 2001/2020 (52.3%, Cadenhead for Virtual Open Day 2020, Bourbon and Sherry Casks, 552b): CMcG is at pains not to disclose the distillery (which, I suspect, probably rhymes with the fat lass), but manages. Nose: pastry, though the crust is baked a little too much, almost parched. The pastry filling has a few thyme leaves, surfing on an undercurrent of warm apricot compote. Mouth: it turns more metallic on the tongue, with thyme and sage, nigella seeds on warm apricot compote, and, later on, melted and warmed-up strawberry ice cream. Finish: strange finale with some tannins and ginger shavings on top of melted strawberry ice cream in which a cork has macerated a little too long. That last note turns into tame spices and wormwood, even rotting wood, in the long run. Decent drop, but despite CMcG's tried-and-tested, "I was surprised to see it is still available -- I might buy another bottle after the tasting, actually," I will not.7/10


Dram #3

Littlemill 29yo d.1991 (48.1%, Cask Sample, Bourbon Barrel): JMcI says a few words about Littlemill, Bishlouk gets a shout out for not being able to identify any Litllemill I pour him, then we dive in. Nose: custard-y, it soon churns out soft fruity tones of crushed maracuja and squashed dragon fruit, as well as papaya-scented cotton candy. That is well original! Mouth: subdued, for a second, the tropical fruits soon come back strong, if not loud -- maracuja, dragon fruit and white peach. Finish: soft, bitter, for a second, until the tropical fruits (passion fruit, dragon fruit) rush back to distribute gentle slaps. Again, it has a mild bitterness that feels woodier, here. Not much of the frequent grass, in this one: it is all fruit and wood. 9/10


Dram #4

Glendronach 30yo d.1990 (47.2%, Cask Sample, Bourbon Cask re-racked into First Fill Sherry Cask in 2013): nose: precious wood, wood lacquer, mahogany oil, encaustic and all sorts of waxes, thick, dark honey and caramelised quince paste. The second nosing brings toasted notes into the mix as well. Mouth: the same thick, dark honey -- oh! it is thick alright -- and waxy wood polish, teak oil. Later on, liquorice root and spent coffee grounds turn up too. Finish: dark chocolate, wood lacquer, a pinch of dry earth and coffee grounds. It is not an earthy dram, though; those are mere nuances that augment the elegant polished-wood notes. Love it. 8/10


Dram #5

Paul John 7yo (54.1%, Cask Sample): advertised as a 6yo on the leaflet, because CMcG cannot count, he admits himself. Nose: this time, more than wood polish, it is wet earth, bog water and mudflats. Distant barbecue, a fire in a bothy, all subtle. Peat grows bolder with time, never becoming invading. Mouth: more smoke on the palate, and much more power than the previous drams too. Peat smoke, bog myrtles, smoked blackcurrants. Finish: the smoke is now very obvious, fighting to get the better of the blackcurrants and myrtles. Another very good drop from PJ. 7/10


Dram #6

Caol Ila 29yo d.1991 (48.9%, Cask Sample, Bourbon Hogshead): nose: meow. The smoke in this one is in the background, a mixture of dry seashells, whelks, drying fishing nets, oil lamps and oilskins covered in sea spray. Lastly, a recently-varnished small boat and an ashtray, with hardly any ash in it also appear. Mouth: sweet and salty, it grows a smoky-cotton-candy side that is as delicious as it is odd. Quite a few spices too. The second sip brings unexpected strawberry bubble gum to the fore. Finish: wow! Salty! Lots and lots of salt, before peat and sea-fishing gear take over. The peat grows smokier and smokier, turning sooty as a Victorian chimney. A hint of dark chocolate completes the picture. Wow. I love this. 8/10



Cracking selection, but I found the format not engaging at all. About halfway through, I tuned out and tasted at my own pace, without paying too much attention to the hosts. The discussion between the three of them, I found to be generic and fairly basic, without even the pleasure of spending time with nice people (which they are), since it was virtual.

I am now thinking of not attending the Springbank tasting tomorrow and just tasting the samples on my own.


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