Another rather ambitious tasting around one distillery. You will remember I said last time that was not my thing, but hey! I reserve the right to contradict myself whenever I choose to do so.
The host has a few technical issues, in the beginning, which suits me well, as I am late to the party.
66.92 9yo 2007/2016 Simply delicious (57.6%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 24b): that is a seriously limited bottling, there! Nose: grilled sausages, smoked tofu, white-miso paste, smoked cheddar, roasted seaweed. The second nosing has lemon curd, then strawberry custard. It turns very muddy in the back, though it is not unpleasant. Mouth: surprisingly fruity, with seared strawberries and pineapple pulp served next to grilled hot-dogs. Finish: it feels smokier in the finish, with scorched earth and crusty peat. This is a warming, comforting dram that becomes dry and petrolic, in a tarry fashion. Lovely. 8/10
66.91 13yo d.2002 Mechanic's workshop by the sea (57.4%, SMWS Society Single Cask, 2nd Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 198b): nose: this one is milkier, creamier. It has earth-covered apricot and muddy yoghurt, morphing into dry old staves, perhaps with a few mint leaves too. The second nose is all burning barns. A good thing, if you are a countryside arsonist, I would imagine. Mouth: spicy, very spicy, it has burning peat, ablaze oil spills, with only traces of (burning) fruit (strawberry) and warm cigar leaves. Finish: long, fiery, this is reminiscent of scorched earth and burnt scrubland, hot banana slices, char-grilled plantains and barbecued pineapple. 8/10
Ardmore 17yo 2002/2019 (58.2%, Adelphi Selection, Bourbon Hogshead, C#317, 275b): nose: aggressively meaty, this has rancid butter, suet and rotting flowers from the start. Perhaps elderberry gumdrops, after a while. As one tilts the glass, some smoked flowers appear as well. Mouth: mellow, here, it has violets and primroses, alongside a growing heat. Is it candied ginger shavings? Finish: big, the finish sees mudflats, crushed violets, more of that elderberry gums, cuberdons and heat. The back throat is left with drying, crusty earth cakes. Pretty good, on the whole, but that nose is not my thing. 7/10
Ardmore 19yo d.1990 (46%, Signatory Vintage for Direct Wines First Cask, Bourbon Barrel, C#30109): the host did not mention the cask number, and there are a couple of handful of sister casks. Fortunately, I am good at digging! Nose: much more ethereal, with fruity esters, strawberry juice and lemonade. Then, suddenly, piña colada is propelled on to the stage, with coconut oil, as clear and invasive as what comes out when grating a coconut. Perhaps crushed Aspirin too. Mouth: very fruity, choc-full of tangerine juice, soft and sweet, as well as gently bitter. This is great! A few grains of crushed Aspirin in fruit juice, Schweppes orange. Finish: huge, and I am as surprised as anyone that a 46% dram should seem so big, after the first three unruly youngsters. This is assertive, bold, acidic as grapefruit, juicy and mildly bitter. All over the shop, it may read, but it is well structured and balanced. 8/10
Ardmore 21yo 1998/2020 (53.1%, Elixir Distillers The Single Malts of Scotland, Bourbon Hogshead, C#750788, 287b): nose: this one is fruity too, but dryer, much dryer, with drought-time farmland and a soft November sea breeze that cracks the knuckles. Sauvignon-blanc wine, the dry residue in a glass of orange juice, the following morning, yellowed-out Rizzla, oily with tobacco extract. Mouth: acid-fruity, it has the very faint smoke of burning paper and scented ink. Finish: big, explosive, full of fruity acidity, with a mix of grapefruit peel and orange pith, bordering on lemon pith. Nice. 8/10
Ardmore 22yo 1997/2018 (48.7%, The Nectar of the Daily Drams): nose: überwaxy, beefed up with plasticine, modelling clay, candlewax -- is this a mislabelled Clynelish? In the long run, it turns lighter and sweeter (almost overly sweet, in fact), cotton-candy-like. Mouth: mild, silky and waxy again, it has all the softness of plasticine, with peach pulp, apricot jams and a pinch of spices (whole coriander grains). Finish: very waxy again, the finish even has nail polish and scented candlewax, alongside peach skins, kumquat, ink (JS) and burning-hot pencil. I love this one. 8/10
Ardmore 21yo 1997/2019 (49.4%, Whisky-Doris The Art Nouveau Collection, Bourbon Hogshead, C#901456, 180b): nose: fresh, fruity and softly bitter, this one has pith, plastered all over it. Mouth: still fresh and fruity, it is also velvety and peachy, yet feels a bit thin, at this stage. Over time, it becomes fuller again, juicy and fruity. JS finds St Joseph's Aspirin for children, apparently a big hit with 1980s underaged crackheads across the Atlantic. Finish: acidic in the finish, even if it is the tame acidity of tangerine that lingers and lingers, rather than piercing lemon juice. 8/10
66.25 22yo 1985/2007 Pink ladies and dark chocolate (52.3%, SMWS Society Cask, Refill Hogshead, 295b): ha! An old-livery SMWS offering. It is becoming a scarcer opportunity, these days. Nose: another meaty one, with lard, suet, curd and man sweat, though, thankfully, that soon makes way for cinnamon-and-ginger bubble gum (the brown Boules Magiques) and a more yoghurt-y side, with mint and fresh lemongrass. JS finds mushroom funk, in the nose as well. Mouth: lively, sparkly, the palate is a wave of mint and wood spices, lemongrass and unripe-coconut yoghurt. Finish: mint lozenges, cough drops, refreshing and warming at the same time, if that is possible. Citrus comes out more and more, with grapefruit and bergamot, augmented by tatters of cucumber peel. This is more divisive, if interesting. 7/10
Ardmore 1977/2003 (45%, Samaroli 35th Anniversary, C#7631, 738b): nose: very tame, but then, at 45%, it is hardly a surprise, considering the strength of some of the previous, what, eight drams? I reckon it is a sequence mistake to have this last. It becomes buttery and fruity, with squashed peach, augmented with a few drops of lemon juice. Time reveals an ample nose, wide, with an unsuspected grassiness. Kaffir lime leaves, freshly-cut lemongrass -- almost citronella. Mouth: soft, sweet, confectionery sugar on peach slices. There is a minute acidity to this, but it feels tame, at this stage, perhaps unfortunately. Finish: long and comforting, it still seems to lack kick or oomph. Again, I blame its position in the sequence. This one needs more time and a fresh palate. A pity, because it is promising good things. Another time. 9/10
Right. The leisurely pace was a good thing, tonight: since I was late, it allowed me to catch up effortlessly, often being ahead of the game too, whilst not finishing hours before everyone else.
As was the case for the Clynelish tasting a couple of weeks ago, I found this to lack structure and educational value. For illustration, someone asked if Ardmore was double- or triple-distilled and the host looked it up on t'Interwebz. I do not expect an exhaustive list of names of the warehouse men over the years, but knowing whether double- or triple-distilled seems like basic information to be able to pass on, during a tasting dedicated to a single distillery.
It was the social interactions (or lack thereof) that dampened my enthusiasm, however. On one hand was a guy who had lots to say, but nothing about the drams (which he was not even trying, for some reason), who would monopolise the conversation to talk about his latest bargain-bin finds; on the other hand were several lurkers who were connected, but said nothing for the three hours the session lasted, and did not switch on their camera once. It felt odd, borderline rude.
The whiskies were good, even if I stand by my opinion that eight (or nine) drams from the one distillery are not the most exciting things to taste in a row.
No comments:
Post a Comment