25 March 2021

25/03/2021 Midleton

Midleton 20yo 1991/2012 (54.1%, OB Single Cask for The Whisky Exchange, First Fill Bourbon Barrel, C#48750, 205b, b#000109): nose: it is immediately a big, bold whiff of buttery tropical fruits; mango, avocado, ripe golden kiwi, pulped pineapple and white peach. Harder to detect is a nuance of acetone, probably brought in by the grain (this is a single pot still, which means it has unmalted grain in it), giving the whole a rather pleasant, softly chemical edge. Distant mocha, just-baked mocha buttercream cake. This nose has its fair share of wood too, even if it is paper paste and fruit yoghurt, more than old books and ginger shavings. It does have faint teak oil, though. The second sip transforms the teak oil into rubber -- new rubber boots, to be precise. It adds black liquorice laces into the mix too. Mouth: chewy and juicy, the palate presents a more assertive woodiness, with teak oil now under the spotlight, gently acidic or gingery. Soon, that is supported by a fruity cavalcade, with mango and Chinese gooseberry, avocado (especially in terms of the texture) and unripe pineapple. It feels quite acidic, in a good way, and buttery, still. Not rancid butter, though. The second sip, just like the second nose, sees a rubbery note appear -- this time, new rubber, hot off the mould. It does not take away from the glorious fruit; it merely balances it. It is also rather minty, all of a sudden. In the long run, it is almost drying on the tongue, which points to bicycle tubes, coated in mentholated talcum powder. Finish: big and croissant-like, brioche-y, even, this has fruit turnover written all over it. Which fruit? Golden kiwi, canary melon, pineapple, white peach... and a delayed kick of mango. I am tempted to say yellow passion fruit too, perhaps more timid than I would like. That and the hefty ABV reminds me of Passoã, for some reason. Not that Passoã is strong, but its alcohol integration makes it seem stronger than it actually is, I find. Anyway, the finish is long and creamy (as in: whipped cream), and brings back wafts of sliced mango for a long time. The mentholated rubber note rears its head here too, yet it is mostly smothered by the hot, buttery tropical fruits, now. Marvellous! 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)

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