12 April 2022

12/04/2022 Glenglassaugh

This particular bottle has had the bottle number obfuscated. The marker pen is fading away, but a number is still not visible underneath it. A promo bottle, perhaps?


Love how the engraved gannets of the logo form a still.
Thanks, JS, I would never have noticed.

Same story on the stopper


Glenglassaugh 40yo b.2013 (42.5%, OB): nose: such a deep and sweet sherry scent! Dried dates, figs, oily teak, dark-chocolate coulis, dark plums, prunes in syrup, fig relish, membrillo, candied physalis, Golden Syrup and all kinds of dark jellies. A couple of minutes in, a delicate impression of milk coffee lands... and scuppers just as quickly. The sherry influence is immense, and it is truly pleasant. Searching hard, one may find tropical fruits too, from Chinese gooseberries to mangoes, yet they are so submerged in sangria that they are hardly recognisable. Sangria is right, though: this nose has something inherently wine-y, in the best possible way. Madeira wine rises, accompanied by lily-of-the-valley and jasmine. Then, we have wine-soaked banana waving from the side line. The second nose sees confectionary sugar dusted on Turkish delights, as if it were talcum powder on a baby's bottom. Shy citrus whispers in the background -- kumquat and candied pink-grapefruit peel. Finally, watercolour and oilskins greet the nose from a distance, before it all unravels and mild-mannered, juicy tropical fruits appear (honeydew, papaya, guava). Mouth: phwoar! this is juicy. Lychee juice shouts loudly and clearly (albeit elegantly) over something more earthy, something that feels rather primeval; lychee juice spilled on garrigue, shall we say. There is wine here too, fresh, juicy, and fruity ay-eff. We have plump green grapes (Thompson seedless) and a respectable kiss of alcohol. The second sip cranks up the acidity, with Korean pears and bergamots adding a layer of complexity that challenges the wine-y side. Chewing on the liquid makes it juicier: now, it is a smoothie made of banana, peach, Korean pear, grapes and that earthy note, which might be provided by root ginger. Outstanding! Finish: a little musky, long and full of sherry goodness again, though a lighter, possibly drier sherry, here -- Fino? It feels very focussed, with the fruity acidity of wine, or fortified white wine, to be accurate. It has a taste of the vine itself, and a nuance of cork. In other words, there is gentle bitterness at play that works really well. The second sip brings back the prunes in syrup and adds candied blush-orange peel to the mix. The obvious sweetness from the first nose has now transmuted into a bitterness and acidity that points to natural fruit. That impression stays in the mouth forever, by the way. This has a depth and a complexity that simply cannot be found in a younger whisky, nor, arguably, in a modern one. It feels less tropical than the first time I tried it, but it is simply a masterclass in sherry maturation. If one does not rush this dram in, one will find satisfaction. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)


And of course...

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