6 December 2022

06/12/2022 Dunglass for St Nicholas

If you think the fact that "Dunglass" and "St Nicholas" have four letters in common is a coincidence, think again.


Dunglass 22yo 1967/1990 (46%, Dun Eideann imported by Donato & C., C#1893-6): nose: we have all sorts of confectionary (sherbet, flying saucers filled with citric powder, edible wafer paper), but also crayons, and chamomile hand cream. A minute of breathing pushes it towards flowery perfume, with white lilac, kerria Japonica, wilted lavender, liquid laundry detergent and paper paste. I can already see why this has such a reputation... Further nosing reveals shampoo (Garnier Ultra Suave, which, incidentally, is also chamomile-scented), old-school hand-soap bars, the likes of which have not been found anywhere since everyone who was a grandmother in the 1980s has left this world. On the late tip, we return to confectionary, this time with chemical-tasting, chalky lemon-mint crumbles. It is really flowery shampoo that dominates, though, and for anyone who dislikes that, this will be way over the top. The second nose has traces of a faded-leather handbag (one with fringes), picks up some heat, yet soon comes back with shampoo. It feels as if wax had been added to the shampoo, yet that hardly makes a difference, really. Melted plastic and a drop of diluted nail varnish on white wood round off this nose. Mouth: Jacob Ree-ZOMG in a tutu! This is soapy and hilarious. Here are the shampoo and liquid laundry detergent from the nose, flowery and soapy, in which someone would have poured a cup of confectionary sugar. Weirdly, that makes it almost tolerable. Lemon-mint crumbles, flying saucers, lavender powder, crushed chamomile pistils, furniture polish from a spray can, golden nail lacquer (Mabelline Bold Gold), and, well, minty shampoo. Between the Garnier Ultra Suave and golden nail lacquer, it is very much a yellow whisky, to my mind, in line with a 1972 Edradour, perhaps slightly less, *ahem*, difficult. It has got some spiciness too, though it is hard to tell what. Ground mace? Sumac? Repeated sipping displays a rubbery-plastic note. Finish: long and coating, the finish reignites the Garnier Ultra Suave mood, and has less sugar than the palate -- although there is still some. The second gulp adds crushed malaria tablets, such as Nivaquine or Paludrine, which probably spells quinine. It seems cut with a pinch of sugar, and that makes it slightly less vile than those tablets. Perhaps it is Alka-Seltzer gratings, after all. In any case, it is entertaining! Retro-nasal olfaction welcomes a pinch of ash, which seems apt: if Fight Club has taught the world anything, it is that soap is made of human fat and ash. Last but not least, the ash reverts to (discreet) burnt hazel wood. Unexpected. Right, this is not that bad, but it is also not good. It does, however, procure a lot of fun. I really, really enjoy this sort of nonsensical whiskies, from time to time. :-) 5/10 (Merci St Nicolas)

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