29/09/2023 Bruichladdich

Bruichladdich Golder Still 23yo 1984/2008 (51%, OB, Bourbon Squat Hogsheads, 4866b, b#3090): nose: a bold nose, full of oily teak and encaustic, dark honeys and Sirop de Liège. Suddenly, it turns all briny and coastal, with iodine, sea air aplenty, and rollmops. It also has ash, dropped from a lit cigarette. And then, we return to oily teak furniture, and lacquered armchairs. A couple of minutes into the exercise, however, the nose goes worryingly quiet -- hugely surprising. A gentle shake barely revives it: it now feels and smells like a tired old Gordon & MacPhail miniature at 40%. Hm. The briny side slowly crawls back into view, more tapenade than anything fishy, now, and it introduces a promise of warmth, as if the cigarette ash had morphed into greasy brown coal. It no longer has the impact of the initial sniff, but, at least, it is not totally spent. The second nose comes back alive, a mix of conifer branches, honey-glazed mint lozenges, and tapenade spilled on an oilskin. An intriguing and unusual combination -- one that works wonders. Mouth: unctuous, full of pouring honey, it is not long before this Bruichladdich reminds you that it is 51% ABV. It has a (gentle) bite alright! Prickle-pear honey, topped with red-chilli powder, honey-glazed cassia bark, and cigar leaves. Yes: it is a bit woody, and softly bitter. The second sip has no bite to speak of (that is not meant in a negative way), and virtually no bitterness either: it is all pouring-honey goodness -- honey made from seaside trees, -- with a minute quantity of unidentifiable tree bark to give it structure. Or, maybe, it is a pinch of dried thyme? Either way, it is excellent. Digging deep, one may find a tiny metallic flavour, the faint memory of a razor blade. Finish: the chilli heat and dark-wood bitterness hardly pass the gums, making room for an enchanting, silky honey. Viscous, sweet, all-natural pouring honey. Beautiful and moreish, it brings warmth and joy to this taster. The second sip adds a dollop of minty gel to a bowl of honey; if bees make honey from mint bushes, it certainly tastes like this. It leaves the mouth comfortably warm and refreshed at the same time. Not much of the seaside notes survives. A spoonful of tapenade, at a push, for the attentive taster, and that is as briny as it gets in the finish. This was a big surprise hit, when we tried it in June, last year, and it still delivers today. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)

27/09/2023 Fête de la Communauté française de Belgique

What better to celebrate (the south of) Belgium than a whisky matured in a beer cask?

SC 73 10yo b.2023 (58.2%, SMWS The Society Cask, 1st Fill ex-Wasted Degrees Table Beer Quarter Cask Finish): nose: hard to believe the table-beer pedigree, as this is as fruity as an India Pale Ale, with grapefruit (pink and white), pineapple rings, yuzu, and oroblanco. It is not all: fairly hoppy, the nose moves towards lime-infused vodka or gin, fresh and lively, then suddenly creamier, with mint-and-peach yoghurt, and lime curd. Soon enough, it is an incessant back-and-forth between the earlier citrus notes, and this creamy aspect, under the watchful eye of a tun of IPA -- yes, it has eyes; roll with it! We have whiffs of an oilskin tablecloth too, waxy, plastic-y, and instantly recognisable, as well as bergamot foliage. The second nose has caramel and flan in equal measure, as if toffee had the texture of flan, a wobbly, jellified cream of sorts. Citrus is quick to come back, and it is mostly of the green kind -- Kaffir lime, yuzu, juicy pomelo, and bergamot and its foliage. Toffee becomes more discernible, to the point one could identify McIntosh's Toffee Penny. Later on, an almost-mineral side rises -- limestone, of course. Mouth: the magic continues on the tongue, with a merry-go-round of citrus at room temperature: kumquats, bergamots, pan-seared mandarines, caramelised blood oranges, pink grapefruits so juicy they are about to burst, and sweet pomelo. There is a mild, complementing bitterness, rather than the expected acidity, which brings us back to IPA, in a way. Lime, or shaddock-pomelo zest, probably. The second mouth is more acidic, and the gums register the high strength more clearly. We have a cool blend of pink grapefruit and shaddock pomelo, with just a drop of lime to augment the whole (and dial up the acidity). Thirty seconds around the palate bring back lime curd, served on a bed of bergamot foliage. Berry-flavoured boiled sweets make an unexpected, late appearance. Finish: big, hugely citrus-y again, it benefits from a dusting of confectionary sugar to soften the bitterness from the mouth (it is built in, yes? I did not add sugar). A long finish indeed, it brings warmth to the back of the tongue and the stomach, and fruity freshness to the tip and sides of the tongue. It is rather hard to comprehend, actually. Perhaps it is akin to sipping a 59% beer. After a couple of minutes, the afore-mentioned zesty bitterness sets up camp, that we identified on the palate. Lime zest in yoghurt, in all likelihood. Repeated sipping renders this creamier and creamier, thick and citrus-y, custard and curd, rather than pouring cream. We still find hops too, in the background, and it feels fizzy. That makes me think of an IPA emulsion, somehow. Later still, that creamy custard is enhanced with crushed plums, blueberries, or a combination of the two. What an interesting and delicious experiment! 8/10 (Thanks, SOB)

26/09/2023 Glencraig

Glencraig 44yo 1975/2020 (54.2%, Gordon & MacPhail 125th Anniversary Edition, Refill American Oak Hogshead, C#9686, 110b): nose: phwoar! from the first millisecond, one gets the sense this is special. It has a marvellously complex patchwork of aromas, including sawdust, bone-dry orange peels, fragrant hay, cedar wood, apple tea, incense (though not patchouli), wicker baskets, and dried meadow flowers that never turn into pot-pourri. One might have thought this would be woodier (and after forty-four years in a cask, that would be logical), yet, in fact, it is not overtly so. Sure, it has sandalwood, roasted peach stones, and mild-cigar boxes, but those tell only one side of the story. We also have mild cigars (not just the boxes), dusty dried daisies and buttercups, citrus that comes closer and closer to lime, oroblanco, and a dash of coconut oil to hold the whole together. Strikingly, all that is distinct. 'Loud' would have an unsuitably negative connotation; all the same, none of those scents is particularly shy. The whole is fresh and comforting at the same time -- an accomplishment. Lemongrass and white pepper appear as one tilts the glass, almost entirely concealing blueberries and smoked myrtles. The second nose puts the accent on those myrtles to the point it becomes a walk through a forest undergrowth, one filled with bramble, holly, and other berry-bearing bushes. Looking hard, one may detect lacquered wood too, though this is nowhere near a grain whisky, in that regard. A polished wooden apple knick-knack comes to mind, vaguely reminiscent of wine, or a drinks cabinet. Unless it is a caramelised drop of vanilla extract. Mouth: incredibly well balanced, the palate has a symphony of citrus fruits, dusted with a generous pinch of spices. Ginger powder, ground lemongrass, crushed citrus foliage, yuzu, oroblanco, a blend of black and white peppers, straight from the peppermill, and (unripe) pomelo. A soft bitterness rises slowly, citrus foliage, peel, or zest. The second sip is juicier, giving blood orange, overripe shaddock pomelo, overripe nectarines, and a drop of fortified wine (a vintage Port, undoubtedly). It is all lush, sweet, and rich, red, if not clearly winy, in a way that is exquisite. Interestingly, I find a drop of vanilla extract on black liquorice bootlaces, dunked into apricot nectar. That becomes almost earthy upon repeated sipping, with a splash of citrus juice here and there, so as to not forget it is still the same whisky. Myrtles, blackcurrants and blueberries seem to play a game of whack-a-mole, eventually. Finish: phwoar again! Ample, clearly defined, assertive, to put it in one word. This finish is in line with the palate, mixing fruits and wood spices with brio. The result is a showcase of tangerine and white pepper, pomelo and lemongrass, coconut flesh and stem ginger, juicy apricot and cigar leaves. It has a greener, vaguely bitter touch too -- courgette peels, perhaps? That is discreet, in any case. What a long and satisfying finish this is! The bitter grows darker at second sip, and, if it appears to come from blackcurrant or elderberry at first, it flirts with liquorice bootlaces, after a short while -- fresh, bitter, yet not overpowering. Subsequent gulps focus on the berries and currants more. They do not eclipse the soft bitterness, but they provide a lovely, fruity, juicy character that is the perfect ending to this masterpiece. Arresting whisky. 10/10

25/09/2023 Tullibardine

Tullibardine 25yo (45%, OB The Stillman's Dram, 1800b): nose: well, well! It is as enticing as a bakery, with shortcrust and frangipane, caramel custard and sticky toffee pudding. A moment of breathing gives it a mix of linseed oil and engine grease, then a rich apple juice, supplemented with a drop of black-olive brine. It grows darker and deeper; perhaps it does not turn into tapenade, but it is on that path. Squid ink and tarry sands. How unexpected! It takes five or ten minutes for the alcohol to spread its wings, after which it appears bold, if not aggressive: metal, fumes, and macerated flowers (is it magnolia?) The second nose has brambles, a veneer of hazel wood, and a spoonful of pouring honey. Repeated, deeper nosing reveals thick, oily plants, reminiscent of parts of the tropical greenhouse, at St Louis's Botanical Gardens. Those plants are supported by honey and nutty spread. Gorgeous. Mouth: I honestly think I have never had such a syrupy whisky! The texture is thick as pouring honey, viscous, sticky, yet pleasant and warming. We have pollen, stamen, a mix of unripe apples and apricots that both provide a fruity bitterness, unripe-hazelnut paste, and that ever-present honey. The second sip is a little thinner, and adds (unripe) tropical fruits: guava, papaya, cherimoya, longan -- none too juicy, but a welcome addition. Repeated sipping confirms those tropical fruits; they never become dominant, or even clearly defined, yet they are truly there and elevate this dram. Finish: it has an ideal balance, at 45%, and gives a much nuttier impression than the nose and palate indicated. Hazelnut paste, not-quite-ripe walnuts, pecan skins (the nut itself, not so much), beechnuts, medlar shells. A fairly long finish, warming and comforting, not invasive at all. There is not much honey left to spot, beside a general soothing impression of lush warmth. The second gulp turns the heat up a bit, adds warm hay, and cubed papaya to mingle with the walnut kernels, which are now honey-glazed. Excellent drop! 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, elskling)

14/09/2023 Clydeside

Clydeside (unknown ABV, Cask Sample, ex-Sherry + ex-Bourbon Casks married in cask): nose: the integration smells a lot smoother than in the previous sample, parading toffee, gently burnt on a wood fire. That toffee turns sweeter and more chemical, flirting with strawberry chewing gum, at times, and Haribo Bananas. Further on, an assertive wood influence settles down, blowing ginger and sawdust up the olfactory organ. It is not much longer before the Sherry cask makes itself known, timidly pushing a sweet cough syrup into the light, only to rally around hay bales and minty lemon drops. And why not? Lemon mint is a thing, after all. The second nose has a clear lemony custard, fresh as mint, or as a bunch of meadow flowers in a vase. As time passes, that morphs into deeper citrus, namely kumquat, tangerine, and orange, foliage included. It swiftly returns to lemony custard, mind! We spot a drop of fiercely-acidic lime juice too, late in the day. Water brings up a puzzling mix of orange and powerful anaesthetics. A minute of marrying time transforms the latter into sawdust, which is more for me, and ripens the orange: juicier, sweeter, and darker too. Lastly, an oilskin tablecloth appears. Mouth: it has a gel-like texture, viscous, enveloping. Despite what the nose suggested, the palate has the horsepower of its two sibling (remember: here and here), and, if we have ground cloves, grated ginger and galangal shavings, the whole is so numbingly powerful that it could be mistaken for a dentist's anaesthetic. Here are sweetness and bitterness intertwined, not unlike a mud patty on a sweet shortcrust. How original! The second sip may be fruitier, showcasing citrus and foliage. It stays a tad bitter, though, which hints at unripe citrus, rather than anything too juicy. A cinnamon-and-ginger-based paste wraps the whole thing up, which perpetuates the numbing feeling. Water makes it softer and more balanced. It exhibits riper fruits, and the wood spices are less intimidating. The citrus foliage also takes a back seat. Finish: a hand grenade of lemon mint and grated ginger, this certainly offers a modest explosion in the mouth, and raises the roof of it, a little. Modelling clay, souped up with lemon mint, whole bay leaves, chewy, bitter, yet also very fresh, plantain skins, and, if it does not have Kaffir lime leaves, it comes pretty close to them. This finish infiltrates every pore of the mouth, and, once again, leaves it somewhat anaesthetised. The second sip has chewy, dried tangerine segments, more bitter than sweet, but well pleasant. Water makes the citrus riper here too. More unexpectedly, the bitterness that we had associated with unripe oranges is still very present. As is the minty freshness; imagine ripe-orange segments coated in toothpaste, sprinkled with crushed bay leaves. This is my favourite of the three. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, DH)

08/09/2023 Clydeside

Clydeside 34mo (unknown ABV, Cask Sample, ex-Sherry Butt): nose: again, a complexity that comes as a surprise at that age. Oh! it is not Black Bowmore either, let us be clear. Tea biscuits, caramel flan, oily nuts (walnuts, mostly, but pecans too), and a bold alcohol kick that takes the (wooden) form of sawn cinnamon sticks, crushed cloves, and powdered ginger. Later on, we have the interior of a restored vintage car -- polished dashboard, leather seats, sprayed with Amontillado (and why the hell not?) The second nose has hazelnut paste, or chestnut paste, sweet, nutty, and perfect, in preparation for the festive season (who cares that there are three months to go?) Belatedly, mint drops show up, a minty, fudge-like gel in a minty, crystallised-sugar shell. Mouth: sweet and hot in the attack -- very hot! If I were to guess, I would say this is ~61% ABV. A strength that somehow reminds me of a sip of pure lemon juice -- it is that impactful. The taste buds inevitably come back to life, however, and we see a procession of syrupy bitters. Angostura, gentian liqueur, cough syrup, coupled with infused herbs. The second sip is just as big, although the heat is a tad delayed. Melted minty chocolate joins the Angostura, with some herbs in its wake -- clover, buttercups, hawthorn. Cassia bark, thin as a cedarwood sheet, closes the ball. Finish: dry and earthy, here is Sherry spilled onto an earthen floor. If one pays close attention, one will pick up that said Sherry turns sweeter and sweeter, going from a muscular Oloroso to a fruity Moscatel in thirty seconds. That is complemented by a pinch of discreet-yet-lingering herbs. Just like a good (read: efficient) cough syrup, it seems to change course halfway through to deliver its payload. The second gulp sees the unlikely appearance of minty cardboard, also seasoned with ground ginger, as well as garlic powder and/or asafoetida, now. Then, it goes back to syrupy cough syrup, and continues towards mint liqueur and chocolaty stem ginger. 7/10 (Thanks for the sample, DH)

04/09/2023 Clydeside

Clydeside 34mo (unknown ABV, Cask Sample, 1y ex-Sherry Cask + 22m ex-Bourbon Cask): nose: as usual with the output of this distillery, the depth is incredible, considering the age. Teak furniture, liqueur cabinets, nut oils, then warm toffee and gooey sticky toffee pudding. We have older, darker woods too (although I am struggling to identify which types, a wooden coppa dell'amicizia comes to mind), drier, dustier, more weathered by time and successive layers of varnish. Caramel, more toffee, and slightly-too-baked crusty cake join a discreet dash of nail lacquer. Lastly, a whiff of rancio augments the picture. The second nose is fruitier, with dried peaches and apricot skins turned chewy. Toffee is never too far, though it is now older, chewy, and less sweet. Mouth: acidic-and-a-half, stripping, we have hot, liquid toffee, with the texture of lime juice attacking the enamel of the teeth. Time on the tongue turns the palate into boiling caramel (toning down the acidity, somewhat), and an unexpected chalkiness complements the acidic sweetness. The second sip is more approachable, mixing chewy dried apple slices with toffee, or caramel coulis. It is still warm, and now gently winy, as if PX had been sprayed onto those dried apple chunks. Finish: it is certainly warming! Not chilli-hot, but hot in a heated-metal fashion -- and it has a slight metallic bitterness too. Oxidised metal, half covered in bone-dry lichen, olive pits, devoid of fleshy tatters, and ground into a powder. The second sip feels more traditional, with a bolder-than-expected Sherry influence (which is to say it is sweet as a fortified wine), caramel stuck to a bare-metal pan (a camping tin pan from the 1980s, to be precise, before they started coating them in Teflon), and a lingering impression of heated fortified wine: hot, syrupy, and sweet, with a pinch of earth for good measure. Behind all that, butterscotch will reward the attentive taster. The mouth is left as if full of gravel upon which moss or algae are starting to grow. 7/10 (Thanks for the sample, DH)