25 September 2023

25/09/2023 Tullibardine

Tullibardine 25yo (45%, OB The Stillman's Dram, 1800b): nose: well, well! It is as enticing as a bakery, with shortcrust and frangipane, caramel custard and sticky toffee pudding. A moment of breathing gives it a mix of linseed oil and engine grease, then a rich apple juice, supplemented with a drop of black-olive brine. It grows darker and deeper; perhaps it does not turn into tapenade, but it is on that path. Squid ink and tarry sands. How unexpected! It takes five or ten minutes for the alcohol to spread its wings, after which it appears bold, if not aggressive: metal, fumes, and macerated flowers (is it magnolia?) The second nose has brambles, a veneer of hazel wood, and a spoonful of pouring honey. Repeated, deeper nosing reveals thick, oily plants, reminiscent of parts of the tropical greenhouse, at St Louis's Botanical Gardens. Those plants are supported by honey and nutty spread. Gorgeous. Mouth: I honestly think I have never had such a syrupy whisky! The texture is thick as pouring honey, viscous, sticky, yet pleasant and warming. We have pollen, stamen, a mix of unripe apples and apricots that both provide a fruity bitterness, unripe-hazelnut paste, and that ever-present honey. The second sip is a little thinner, and adds (unripe) tropical fruits: guava, papaya, cherimoya, longan -- none too juicy, but a welcome addition. Repeated sipping confirms those tropical fruits; they never become dominant, or even clearly defined, yet they are truly there and elevate this dram. Finish: it has an ideal balance, at 45%, and gives a much nuttier impression than the nose and palate indicated. Hazelnut paste, not-quite-ripe walnuts, pecan skins (the nut itself, not so much), beechnuts, medlar shells. A fairly long finish, warming and comforting, not invasive at all. There is not much honey left to spot, beside a general soothing impression of lush warmth. The second gulp turns the heat up a bit, adds warm hay, and cubed papaya to mingle with the walnut kernels, which are now honey-glazed. Excellent drop! 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, elskling)

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