03/01/2025 Akkeshi

Not to be confused with Akashi, which is a brand of single malts and blends from White Oak distillery. This is a leftover from last year.

Akkeshi 3yo 2018/2023 (57.8%, Adelphi Selection, 1st Fill ex-Bourbon American Standard Barrel, C#1011, 253b): nose: fairly unique, in that it has a dominant dry character, with weathered leather, hay, and desert dirt. Is this from Japan, or from the American West? It has a smoky-earthy vibe too, roasted barley, smoked on a campfire, that continues the cow-boy story. Behind that, preserved lemons and smoked lemon rinds, hidden in hay bales. The only comparison I can think of is Glen Elgin: the official twelve-year-old had some similarities, as I recall it. One may detect campfire-dried fishing nets too, likely used to fish in fresh water, rather than at sea. The second nose has charred wood, soaking in a purple plastic bucket full of warm fresh water. Whatever barley we had earlier has been roasted to char, and milled to smithereens. A faint milky or buttery whiff rises slowly, in the long run. Mouth: immensely salty and dry, it has crumbly-peat smoke, tarry sands blown with a hairdryer, smoked crayfish shells, black ink poured on crusty earth, and pitch-black ashes. It is quite potent, and it takes dozens of seconds for the heat to come under control. Then, it turns frankly inky, and introduces some freshwater algae that I cannot identify. The second sip has something medicinal to it. It is not invasive, or bothering in any way; a jar of rubbing alcohol, or something old school like that, or old bandages impregnated with Aptonia warming gel. Smoke comes back in full force as soon as one chews. Finish: the heat is astonishingly restrained, at first gulp, warming, dry, not drying, and pleasantly comforting on this cold-but-dry January day. The finish too is rich with ink and dark earth, yet it has less ash than the palate. Still, smoky, it leaves the gob dirty, grimy, as if covered in soot and charry ashes -- burnt plants, rather than burnt wood. The second gulp seems stronger, which suggests it varies hugely, depending on how long one keeps it in the mouth before swallowing. It numbs the taste buds, somewhat, but, before that, fleetingly, the whole mouth is like flooded with stagnant water, full of vegetal components floating mid-water, hanging aimlessly. It is but fleeting, though: that is soon torched to ashes and char, which is the lasting impression. Burnt fishing nets and rods, porridge leftovers tossed into the campfire, burnt wicker, all augmented with a drop of dark maple syrup. Indeed, a subtle caramelised note appears at the death. This is excellent. 8/10