27/10/2025 The BenRiach

The BenRiach 33yo 1976/2009 (51.6%, OB Limited Release Bottling specially selected and bottled for La Maison du Whisky, Hogshead, C#3551, 191b): nose: warm, welcoming honey turns into a burst of juicy tropical fruits, mango and maracuja, leading the pack. Behind them are carambola, canary melon, nectarines and plump apricots. Say, we are in for a treat, are we not? Apricot jam introduces the minutest whiff of smoke, as if the cauldron in which the jam had simmered was still on the embers of the kitchen hearth. More fruits come out soon: yellow cherry tomatoes and papaya join the above, though it remains (yellow) maracuja's game. The second nose unleashes a torrent of (milk-)chocolate mousse waiting for strawberry coulis. That turns into a milky chocolate sponge cake, then chocolate shortbread in seconds. How lovely! There is a whisper of dried wood mingling with cocoa powder and those shortbreads. Where have the fruits gone? Mouth: a strangely-bitter attack, it has rubber boots, rubber gloves, and none of that comes with unripe hazelnuts or flower stems -- phew! Just one chew reactivates the yellow fruits, much to this taster's delight. Maracuja is perhaps even louder than it was on the nose, and practically smothers everything else. Competing to be heard, we spot apricots, nectarines, papayas, carambolas, unripe almonds, creamy and bitter, and grape juice pointing at vinegar. Chewing some more adds pressed raisins, a dusting of cinnamon powder, and mango skins. Still that bitterness, eh? The second sip is similarly fruity and bitter, now pushing cocoa beans alongside carambola and dragon fruit. It musters up more acidity than ever before -- maracuja's last hurrah, clearly. Finish: creamy, pulp-like. Here is a smoothie made of all the afore-mentioned fruits and augmented with ground hazelnuts. Long, lingering, a tad bitter, and very, very fruity. As it settles in, it acquires smashed raspberries, blackcurrants and blackberries. It has the acidity and the slight bitterness of wild berries, in other words, and loses its tropical character somewhat. The second gulp sees smashed pineapple flesh coated in cocoa powder. There is a lick of mocha too, hot tin, but, to the death, it stays fruity-and-three-quarters, with even a puff of durian as a last note. Brilliant. 9/10 (Thanks for the sample, OB)