12/10/2015 Meaty, big and bouncy at the SMWS

A tasting at the Society on a school night? There is a risk for it to be messy. At the same time, with MC Colin Dunn, it could be a good night out. It also turns out to be the first tasting MR organises; that calls for support. JS and I are willing to give that support. We are magnanimous like that.

Before the session starts, we try something at the bar. Remember that the October outturn came out at the same time as the Whisky Show, which means tOMoH has had none yet. And there is a rare sight.

54.33 12yo d.2002 Holidays and honeymoon (60.1%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 163b): datz rite! The first 54 in at least five years and only the second 54 I try (the first was at the Vaults, earlier this year, in an unrecorded session). Nose: acetone, says JMcC, who I join at the bar. Virginia tobacco and -- wait for it! -- pink berries. Not even sure what pink berries are, or if they even exist, yet that is exactly what this evokes for me. Mouth: it rolls on the tongue nicely, with berries again, as well as a kick of mustard... mustard? No! Horseradish. Finish: yep, berries and horseradish. This is wonderful! 8/10

The room is filling up, JS makes her entrance as Colin Dunn is making his way to the venue (separate room); we are called there shortly afterwards.

The line-up is on glorious display: five 76es. Not being a huge fan of that distillery (Mortlach), I am not ecstatic. The programme was unknown to us, you see. At the same time, good company (the Whisky Cyclist is there too), a good presenter, tapas... how could it not be enjoyable? Plus, there is a gap between bottles 3 and 5, which means Mr D. brought something mysterious. Aha!

Dunn is in full comedian mode, giggitying at every chance, cracking jokes (some recycled, some new) and encouraging the audience to participate. It is much more interactive than last week's session, in fact, and if it is perhaps a little too soon to see a second performance by the same artist, it is clearly a good time. A few selected bits below.

Naturally, we do not try things sequentially. Colin asks someone in the audience to choose the next dram each time.

Dram #6

76.117 25yo d.1988 A grand old lady in the piano shop (48.4%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 248b): nose: "sherry trifle; sounds like the name of a porn star!" Candy floss, strawberry-flavoured toothpaste. It later becomes drier, after the very sweet start. This is a dessert nose -- no wonder it was last, and paired with the cheesecake. Mouth: initially soft, it turns very sweet. Finish: wonderfully balanced, with candy floss, Lucozade (at least I imagine so: never tried the stuff) and a sprinkle of green pepper. 8/10

Colin explains how he calls his employer Diego (Diageo, Diego, geddit?) I tell him later on he needs to complement the phrase with, 'sweaty.'

Dram #2 (chosen by JS, yay)

76.114 26yo d.1987 Grand gardens in Goa (58%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 218b): paired with salmorejo with green apple and basil granite and sun blushed tomatoes. Nose: dry and fruity, with flour and flowers, marzipan, even. Hot wax (for the vinyl collectors), subtle smoke and dried orange peel. Cold incense, saffron, says CD. With water, more meat comes out, then pine wood. Mouth: it bites much more than the previous. Full of dried orange peel and black pepper. Finish: long and drying. Water makes it more mellow, with soft, pillow-y figs. 8/10

"At Diego, we have targets, as Robin Hood once had."

Dram #4

Mortlach 16yo (43%, OB Flora & Fauna): alongside milhojas de escalivada of smoked & roasted aubergine and red peppers. Of course, we have had this mystery dram before. Dunn brought it from his personal collection ("...of 24 bottles") instead of the more recent (and more expensive) 18yo, because he thought not everyone would have had a chance to ever try it otherwise. A delicate attention, I thought. Nose: cured meat, as well as lots of sugar. It is a sweet marinade, full of brown sugar, maple syrup, molasses. Mouth: sherried (Diego keep the best sherry casks for themselves, we are told), with burnt caramel and syrup. Finish: watery; it is not cask strength and it feels. Strongly. Burnt wood and burnt caramel. This has never been my favourite F&F, today does not change my view. 6/10

Dram #5

76.116 26yo d.1987 Tangier market (48.3%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 193b): with mini tosta de asparagus with Manchego and onion confit. Nose: toffee, butter, lard, even. It soon becomes what is known in the industry under the name: woody-as-fook. A dash of red fruit completes the picture. JS finds it earthy. Mouth: mellow and gentle, with soft fruit (apricot). Finish: bold, with apricot compote (stones included). It is warm and comforting. 7/10

Irrelevant rugby talks drag on for a bit.

Dram #3

76.123 27yo d.1987 Warm, joyous and gratifying (52.2%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 214b): matches a selection of Iberico Jamon. Nose: raspberry coulis on shortbread. Pie dough covered in peaches. Mouth: hot, with black pepper and hot peaches. Finish: big, assertive and not displaying much character. This is a bit boring, to be honest. I enjoy it, because the alcohol is starting to take its toll. It is merely 7/10

Dram #1

76.110 27yo d.1986 Summer fruit salad with cream (58.8%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 242b): complemented by cream of melon shot with crispy jamon. Nose: warm bakery, with plums and fresh oranges, quite simply. Mouth: spicy and fruity, with lots of oranges again. No meat, which is interesting, considering that is supposedly the main distillery marker. Finish: slight bitterness, as well as the acidity of orange. 7/10

"As Kafka said: this has metamorphosised."

Colin rummages through his bag to produce another bottle -- we have hardly had enough.

Dram #7

Shake shake shake
Shake shake shake
Shake your bouteille

Mortlach Rare Old (43.4%, OB, b. ca 2015): the recent, standard-range, official Mortlach, accompanied by the mandatory sales pitch. It is kept to a very tame level; Dunn is not ramming product down our throats, thankfully. This is merely an opportunity to compare official bottlings, old and new, to independent. Nose: cardboard and smoked ham. Mouth: I find it watery, with bits of cardboard and ham. Finish: peach stone, lime. It is alright, if formatted. Nothing groundbreaking. JS reckons it is good for the Chinese market. 6/10

The bottle reads, '2.81 distilled.'

"Some people think it was distilled in February 1981."

Any tips on cycling and pink shirts?

The reality is more amusing, still (pun intended). The distillation regime at Mortlach is such that the spirit is distilled 2.81 times on average. To keep it simple, there are three pairs of stills:



The wash stills are filled for distillation. The output (low wines) are fed to the respective matching spirit stills for the second distillation:



The spirit that comes out of SS2 and SS3 is casked. What comes out of SS1 is split for further distillation: 80% go into SS2, whilst the remaining 20% go into WS2:



In other words, some spirit is distilled twice, some thrice and some four times. Everything is then blended together into casks for ageing.
A pity, in my opinion. It would be interesting to try double-, triple- and quadruple-distilled Mortlach for comparison, would it not?

Good tasting. I was glad that the SMWS bottlings were of the fruity, rather than the meaty kind. Even if the whiskies were not necessarily what I would usually go for, the way they were presented kept them interesting, the host was up to his usual standards, the food was good (I do not think I will ever fully buy into the food-pairing thing, though) and the atmosphere was pleasant. Well done MR for organising a very successful first tasting.

In any bar, that would spell W-I-N.
Here, it might spell H-E-A-D-A-C-H-E

To be improved: the tapas, although tasty, were not very substantial. Also, we ran out of bread in seconds: there were fewer pieces per table than guests. Six drams (seven) on an empty stomach (18:30 to 20:30, precisely at dinner time) make for a hazy finish (and a difficult morning). The same thing happened a few years ago for that grain tasting. Since the food is expensive and cannot be made into a three-course supper, I will dare point out that 2.5cl pours are much too much for a tasting. 1.5cl is more than sufficient to enjoy a dram as part of a tasting (even 1cl should be enough). Not to mention it costs a lot less for the organisers. 2.5cl x 20 people = 50cl, while 1.5cl x 20 people = 30cl. Seeing how many glasses were not emptied, I like to think others share my opinion.

I hope the SMWS reconsider the size of their pours for future tastings.

Stars of the evening

04/10/2015 The Whisky Show 2015 (Day 2 -- Part 3)

The previous episode is here.

From the canteen, I spot the Loch Lomond stand at last. I rush to it to try...

Loch Lomond Single Grain (46%, OB): nose: lemon zest, light custard. Mouth: zesty and fresh, with custard. It turns velvety after a bit. Finish: soft, sweet and custard-y. This is pleasant. 7/10

JS fetches...

Springbank 25yo (46%, OB, b.2014, 1200b): the drams list promised an early-1990s bottling, we get last year's instead. Talk about a disappointment: I have already had it (no notes). Nose: kumquats, a sprinkle of dust, citrus tart. Mouth: light and gentle, pineapple juice, crisp, lively too. Finish: lots of fruit abound -- tinned pineapple, clementines, mandarins. It was worth it after all: I like it much more than the first time. 8/10

Glenglassaugh 45yo 1968/2014 (44.3%, OB, Sherry Hogshead, C#1601, 349b): nose: pâte de fruits kept in a leather bag. Mouth: rich and marmalade-y. Finish: explosion of spices, then fruit. Lovely. 9/10

This is not London Bridge

After a trip to the terrace and much deliberation, we go for...

Littlemill 25yo (50.4%, OB Private Cellar Edition, Oloroso Sherry Finish, b.2015, 1500b): nose: fruit at first, slightly tropical, then leather notes. Mouth: the leather comes out much more, now, with chocolate and mocha. Finish: dry leather, initially, belts and so on. Tropical fruit comes out shortly thereafter. Fresh and good, though it is in the shadow of other bottlings we have had... that cost 1/20th of this one's price. 8/10

MR likes the Littlemill

EG joins us and insists we try the new Inchmurrin, to compare it to the Littlemill.

Inchmurrin 12yo (46%, OB Island Collection, b.2015): nose: herbs and fruit. Lots of fruit. Mouth: a pleasant stroll under the foliage, with cut fruit on top. Finish: waves of tropical fruit now kick me in the face. Amazing dram. The price of one bottle of Littlemill will buy ca 70 bottles of this one. Shocking. 8/10

Time to finish ourselves off.

Laphroaig 1997/2015 (53.8%, BBR, C#46): nose: peat smoke. Mouth: big and powerful. Finish: a discharge of peat, barley, smoke and fruit. Nice! MS hates it. 8/10

Laphroaig (unknown pedigree, Signatory Vintage): nose: barley and peat smoke. Mouth: TCP, peated barley. Finish: yeah, medicinal and peaty. Well made for someone into that style. It feels a bit young to me. I prefer the BBR. 7/10 (if anyone reading this knows the details, I am all ears)

We meet our Swiss friends back from the Three Legends masterclass. They warn us that OB is bringing stuff for us to try.

anCnoc 22yo (46%, OB, b. ca 2015): every year, I seem to end with this one. Nose: gentle and mild. Bland? Well, it is not assertive, but it is pleasant. Considering this is the end of day 2, it is an achievement it manages to hold itself. Mouth: milky, creamy even, with subtle spices and honey. Finish: bitter chocolate, orange PiM's. 8/10

I grab some chocolate at the food-pairing stall. I am given a Dalwhinnie Winter's Gold to match it. Nothing bad, yet I will not be buying it.

OB comes back from his masterclass with three drams indeed:

Balvenie Classic (43°, OB, b.1980s): nose: nutty and bold, with hazelnut liqueur, orange liqueur, Cointreau. Mouth: generous mouth, with notes of polished dashboards. Finish: mild bitterness, with ginger chocolate and toffee. 7/10

Balvenie 25yo 1974/2000 (46.9%, OB Single Barrel, C#15204, 250b): nose: a great mix of varnish and fruit. Mouth: orange PiM's again (that is Jaffa Cakes, but better, for those who have not had the far-superior, Continental version), diluted Cointreau, fruit. Finish: zesty, sugary, orange-y. Good, very good. 9/10

The last dram, OB insists we try blind.

Nose: lichen, old staves, mossy warehouses -- this is so deep and complex I am a bit intimidated. Mouth: orange sponge cake, grand liqueurs in old crystal decanters, the smoking room in a gentlemen's club. This is noble alright. Finish: a richness I have never encountered in anything before. It has tentalising coal smoke (direct-fired stills, no doubt). The whole is integrated to perfection, extremely complex and works on every level of the flavour palette. I will not even try to understand this, it is beyond me. When we all have had it, OB explains this is R-Patz's blend at 45%, made specially for today, limited to one bottle. It contains Invergordon 1961, Glen Scotia 1972, Scapa 1957, Fettercairn 1957 and, naturally, Dalmore. Dalmore from 1964, 1926, 1870 and... 1868. Although the quantities of the latter are probably infinitesimal, I would be lying if I said my jaw did not drop. Goodness. 11/10

There is no point trying to top this. We all run out of steam -- to the point MS leaves the show almost an hour before closing time. I try to compose myself and go grab a drink (twice): Lost Distilleries Blend from Boutique-y.
I spend a lot of time talking to a jetlagged Australian blogger who flew in this morning. My tolerance level is getting lower and lower, however: the hectic weekend is catching up with me. Before I lose it over the Twatter and blogging arguments, I duck out of it and join the gang when the whole thing slowly comes crashing down.

It felt less impressive this year, really. Until I stopped to look at it from a distance, that is. Impressive selection, impressive and/or interesting drams, mostly, often from unexpected sources -- who would have thought a Caol Ila would impress me so much? New exhibitors showed up (whisky.auction, Loch Lomond), while others disappeared (e.g. Adelphi, Hunter Laing). Some of them felt a bit out of place (the cocktails stands were often not busy for a reason: the whisky show).
The biggest change, of course, is the venue. I had a soft spot for Vinopolis, it is not a secret. The convoluted layout, the many rooms, the maze, the exposed yellow brick of the Victorian construction. Old Billingsgate is as grand as it gets; at the same time, the way it has been set up is less breathtaking: carpet tiles, white partitioning, blinding lighting in places. In fact, it looks very much like a big, corporate event. Clean, slick and sterile. Of course, it is more spacious, which allows for everything and everyone to be in the same room. Of course, it makes the Saturday feel more leisurely, removing the feeling of having to compete at any stall to get anything. I might not like it as much, yet it was a necessary move, as the attendance was growing too big for the smaller venue.

The good bit, to me, is that they turned the ambition down a notch to focus on whisky. No more cooperage on site, no more distilling at the festival. As said in previous editions, those were interesting, yet they were taking time away from the stalls and, ultimately, seemed like a waste of the craftsmen's time.

Douglas Laing sent their most convincing experts

I cannot fail to notice, that the interesting stuff is increasingly to be found amongst the dream drams. Including things that were previously readily available (cue Teeling 21).
That being said, I trust Gordon & MacPhail will still come up with off-the-scale stuff at the Whisky Show that is unaffordable for home consumption. Signatory keeps impressing in the rarely-seen department too.

Let us see what next year brings.

Oh! Dram of the show (outside masterclasses and dream drams) was the Caol Ila SV for dom666, OB and myself. Aultmore BBR for JS.

Old Billingsgate from the riverbank

04/10/2015 The Whisky Show 2015 (Day 2 -- Part 2) Gone but never forgotten

The day started here.

Off to the masterclass, then, where our Swiss friends also are, as is MB (remember, we met him last year).

The room is upstairs, next to the canteen. It is in fact a wide corridor with big, round tables. There are air-conditioning vents on the floor that blow very hard -- one is right under our feet, which makes it uncomfortable. The layout is badly thought-out: it makes it impossible for half the audience to see the presenter without rubbernecking. Also, the tables are so big the presenter cannot really move about freely.

Anyway, to the point. Being the ghost hunter that I am, this masterclass was what one calls a no-brainer as far as I am concerned. With Colin Dunn at the helm on top, it was always going to be enjoyable. And the drams...

Dram #1

Glenesk 1969/1993 (60%, OB, 25th Anniversary Glenesk Maltings): this one has been arousing my curiosity for a while. I am excited to get a chance to try it. Nose: an animal scent with herbs (tarragon, sage), a note of flowers (dandelion) and brisk lemon. Mouth: austere, with flint, gravel, then a citric acidity comes out strongly. Finish: black pepper and lemon juice. This is very pungent, lively, though it does not seem strong, if that makes sense. It is 60%, yet the alcohol does not burn; it is the whole that makes it lively. A wunderbare dram for grumpy people. I love it. 8/10

"You know I don't like to do things traditionally, so we will move from dram #1 to dram... #2. I think it is the first time I go from 1 to 2!"

Admire that hair!

Dram #2

The front label went AWOL

Millburn 18yo 1975/1993 (58.9%, OB Rare Malts Selection): yep, this was bottled in 1993 and released in 1995, with the first wave of RMS. The only other RMS Millburn I have tried (25yo) is very good. Some in the audience rave about the 35yo (which was the last-ever RMS, by the way); what will this one give? Nose: flowers, bushes, hedges. Slightly-overbaked apple compote, then oranges and walnuts. Is this good or what? Mouth: spicy, ample, noble, with pickled oranges, polished dashboards and black pepper. Finish: lovely pepper on a salad of oranges and walnuts. The alcohol is felt more strongly than in the Glenesk, with austere, metallic notes. This one is big, bold and spectacular. I probably prefer the 25yo, still. 9/10

"Have you tried Caol Ila? Not to be confused with Kahlúa..."

Dram #5

St Magdalene 20yo 1978/1998 (62.7%, OB, Refill European Oak, 396b, 100y Waterloo Street Engineering): rarer than hen's teeth. This is one of the deciding factors to attend, for anyone who needed convincing. It was bottled in 1998 to celebrate the completion of the United Distillers/Diageo building in Glasgow -- in Waterloo Street. Most of the bottles went to those who designed and built the building, and to United Distillers' employees. Some more were served at staff events, leaving a handful of dozens to be sold at the Lochnagar distillery. In other words: not many people own this. Only one in the room does -- and it is full of geeks, believe me! Worth noting that this was poured into the cask at 68.7%; a piece of trivia one rarely comes across, obviously from before everything was cut down to 63.5%. Nose: heavy sherry influence, with mint and leather, then jasmine! Very clearly too. Later on, flint and toffee come out -- this is huge, confident and assertive. The woody tones grow dramatically to reveal lots of spices. Mouth: the sherry speaks loudly again, in a polished-wood fashion. Muscular, very spicy. Finish: ample, long, never-ending, actually; it crushes all on its path. Colin finds Grand Marnier in it. It is cinnamon, molasses and cloves to me. 9/10

"When I used to read Michael Jackson's book on how to perform Thriller and beat it..."

Dram #6

Brora 30yo (54.3%, OB, b.2010, 3000b, 9th Release): this one we had last year. It is a mild disappointment to try it again (there are still a fair few Broras I have not had, including official ones), but I am nitpicking, here. Nose: candle wax, cow dung, farmyard, then varnish and a hint of fruit. Mouth: all is well integrated, with candle wax, matchsticks and tractor tyres. JS finds wood and sulphur -- that will be the matchsticks indeed. :-) Finish: ash and peat smoke, tyre tracks in the mud, candle wick. Brilliant dram. 9/10

"It finishes better than Ronaldo."

Dram #4

Convalmore 36yo 1977/2013 (58%, OB, Refill European Oak, 2680b): another one I am excited to try. Ever since it came out last year, I have been curious. Only the price tag stopped me taking a punt. With an RRP of £600, it is no wonder it is still on shelves in many places... Nose: nuts and an obscene depth! Virginia tobacco, peaches... Peaches? Yes, lots of fruit, in fact -- fresh and dried. Indistinguishable. Mouth: powerful, with lots of fresh and dried fruit again. This is superlative! Finish: JS compares it to dubstep; waves of flavours come crashing in the mouth, the same way waves of loud bass ripple one's guts (wop-wop wop-wop). This is amazing. So complex and interesting. 10/10

Dram #3

Glenury Royal 36yo 1970/2007 (57.9%, OB, 1926b): nose: fresh and mentholated, mixing herbs and dried fruit with wood dust. Another big and noble dram, eh? Mouth: unbelievable. It dances on the tongue in a great jig of spices and fruit. Peppery and lovely. Finish: black pepper in good doses. We need to vacate the room, which leaves little time for more notes. 9/10

Scribble, scribble

Very, very good masterclass, with a cracking selection. Colin did recycle a few jokes and anecdotes, as well as come up with new ones.
The only room for improvement, I think, is the room. The session was not very interactive, despite CD's efforts to involve audience. I am convinced that is partly because the room's layout was so opposed to socialising.

The chocolate from your country sucks!

Epilogue.

04/10/2015 The Whisky Show 2015 (Day 2 -- Part 1)

The story starts here.

We reach the place half an hour early. Shorter queue, today, yet a queue all the same. Of course, PS is amongst the first five-or-so people. He slept on site, I am convinced.

Talking to an Indian with a Top Gun hat with a walkie-talkie

We head straight for the whisky.auction stand where most of the things available yesterday have gone. So much for the micro plans we came up with overnight.

Glenglassaugh 12yo (43%, OB, b.1980s): nose: dusty books and orange peels. Mouth: gentle, with orange peel and dusty cardboard boxes. Finish: it becomes a little more assertive, with bitter orange, cardboard and Alka-Seltzer. JS is disappointed. I reckon she was hoping for a Caminneci-level 'glassaugh, which was a lot to hope for, from a modest 12yo, however ancient the bottling. 7/10

Isle of Jura 26yo 1965/1991 (45%, OB The Stillman's Dram, Italian market, PB03 91/918): blood-orange peel. Mouth: velvety, though it retains some orange bitterness. Finish: long, with a good blend of fruit and bitterness. 7/10

White Label (unknown ABV, John Dewar & Sons, 51/640, b.1950s): dom666 reckons this is below 40%. He might well be right too, though it does not bother me. Nose: matchsticks, meat and smoke, wood, dry heat. Mouth: soft and wide, if a bit weak, now. Finish: peaty, dusty, it has fruit stones too. 7/10

I finally manage to find the Tomintoul stand. I learn that the old 27yo had increasingly-aged whisky blended into it, to the point the accountants decided it had to be labelled 33yo (with the associated price hike, of course). The 25yo replaces that 33yo (sob) and comes with another price hike (+40%, no less).

Tomintoul 25yo (43%, OB, b.2015): nose: elegant and delicate, with notes of Burgundy wine. Mouth: fresh, subdued, with a tame sherry influence. Finish: more gentleness and roundness. This is delicate... and a bit boring. 7/10

We grab a table and decide that we will stay there for good, taking turns to fill the glasses.

Glen Rothes 17yo 1997/2015 (46%, Signatory Vintage The Un-Chillfiltered Collection, Refill Sherry Butt, C#15957, 546b): I do not spend much time on this -- it is full of sulphur, rotten eggs-style. Awful. 3/10

Dalmore 25yo (42%, OB, L5234 10:27 14/02346 22/08/14): nose: sherry, of course. It is under control, with exotic fruit, brewing underneath the dried ones. Mouth: polished and elegant. It does not challenge and might even seem a little tout, yet it manages to stay on the right side of vulgarity. Finish: perfect, now. Dry sherry, with walnut skins, exotic fruit, then coffee. Lovely finish indeed. 8/10

Glen Grant 1952/2012 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail): nose: chestnut purée, wood, milk. Mouth: creamy, with a right dose of chestnut purée. Finish: slight bitterness, now (the wood, you see), to make for a cracking finale. Wish I had more of that! 9/10

Heaven Hill (50%, That Boutique-y Whisky Company, B#1, 240b): nose: maple syrup, sugar, apricot. Mouth: soft and easy, enticing. Finish: apricot again. 7/10

Scapa Skiren (40%, OB, First-Fill American Oak Casks, B#SK01, b.2015): nose: sweaty shoes, locker room -- both shy, mind. Mouth: not bad, if rather bland. Finish: citrus, custard. Inoffensive and uninteresting, mostly. 6/10

Time to attend the masterclass (notes to follow).

The Only Way Is Eireann

Back from the masterclass, JS gets a Redbreast 21yo. I am told there is no rush as the bottle is almost untouched. I proceed to the stall, giggle at the TOWIE-model looks of the staff, then almost weep as I get the last drop of Redbreast 21. There is hardly enough for half a dram. At least, I do get some, not like the Glenglassaugh 30 at the Fringe!

Redbreast 21yo (46%, OB, b. ca 2015): nose: bakery, fruity doughnuts and a cascade of exuberant tropical fruit. Mouth: again, it is a cavalcade of tropical fruit. Finish: fresh, lively, fruity, awesome. 9/10

The Irish whiskies are really doing it for me (and many others), at the moment, what with their amazing fruitiness. I suspect, though, that they might follow the same schema as Bourbon: all of them are good, all of them in too similar a style. Teeling 21, Redbreast 21, Bushmills 21 -- they seem pretty much interchangeable. The question is: will anyone ever tire of the exotic-fruit kick?

MS has been asking for Ardbeg for a while, now. We agree that the time might now be right for peat. Not the LVMH version, though.

Lagavulin (54.5%, That Boutique-y Whisky Company, B#1, 101b): nose: camp fire, pure smoke, rather than dirty peat (lots of giggles about what dirty peat is), crispy bacon. Mouth: mead, barley sugar and, of course, smoke. Finish: long and big, with smoke and burnt, crispy bacon. Good Lagavulin, this! 7/10

Ardbeg (48.6%, That Boutique-y Whisky Company, B#6, 58b): nose: wood fire in a log cabin in the undergrowth. Mouth: warm as a log fire. Finish: more peat smoke. There is no barley here, which is great, as it is not a note I look forward to in most Ardbegs, young or old. 7/10

We go for food. It is 15:30 and the restaurant is almost empty. We whizz through the place, get served enormous portions in seconds (I do, at least, MS even goes for second serve), eat, have a huge dessert and take it easy before we resume.
The menu is the same, we all go for the lamb and crumble. Interestingly, the staff is swarming, today, taking plates before people even have time to put their forks down.

While winding down, I have another...

Caol Ila 31yo 1983/2015 (48.1%, Signatory Vintage for TWE, Hogshead, C#5294, 255b): nose: old books, balsamic vinegar, dust and extra-virgin olive oil. This is so close to a 1970s Ardbeg it hurts. Mouth: noble and elegant, with an old-library atmosphere, balsamic vinegar, olive oil, tapenade. Finish: at last, the peat reveals itself, with a sprinkle of fruit juice (olives). 9/10

Read on.