27 February 2019

23/02/2019 The Whisky Show Old & Rare 2019 (Day 1 -- Part 3): The afterparty

Cavalier66, JS and I grab a bite at Paesano. When in Glasgow, the obvious choice is Italian food. Ah, well.

Mushrooms, spinach, mozzarella, ricotta, oregano, garlic and evoo (no tomato)

Artichoke, scamorza and other things

Once back (and stuffed), CD, PG and MH join us. We line up the bottles and samples, and the result is ridiculous. Cavalier66 really has no self-control.

Here is the proof

Hanyu Nice Butt 1988/2008 (55%, OB for Full Proof Holland, C#9307, 534b) (Cavalier66): nose: gingerbread and toasted oak. It feels Cognac-y with a note of smoke. Mouth: lots of sweet varnish, esters and lacquered wood, polished dashboards, sherry style. CD finds it clean, and it is. Finish: very oaky, with more polished-dashboards goodness, nutty flavours and walnut stain. It becomes drying, after a while. 7/10

tOMoH: "Hanyu, are you oaky? Are you oaky? Are you oaky, Hanyu?"
CD: "We'll never find out! And now, he's dead! Will we ever know?"
PG: "If you ask like that, probably not."

We spend a long, long while giggling about Cavalier66 coming out of the closet.

Literally.

Rosebank 9yo 1990/1999 (43%, Signatory Vintage, C#505, 1850b, b#11, 99/336) (CD): nose: hugely herbaceous and mildly metallic, it has dried sage, dried oregano and lemon thyme. Mouth: the lemony side grows, here, with lemon drops, candied lemon rinds, but also chives, Thaï basil and lemon thyme. Finish: citrus-y custard and more herbs, alongside sherbet (Cavalier66). I did not have high expectations for this (this collection is hit or miss), but I like it. 8/10

Clynelish 33yo 1973/2006 (54.2%, Signatory Vintage Cask Strength Collection, Refill Butt, C#8914, 455b, 06/0894) (Cavalier66): nose: honey, wax and rose water, royal jelly, and then a touch of oregano again. Cavalier finds it citrus-y. Indeed, there is bergamot and unripe mandarine. Mouth: rosemary and oregano, basking in honey, more royal jelly (discussion ensues about what that is). It is all mellow and yellow, yet it does not lack oomph at all. Finish: warming, full of lovely honey, satsuma and gentle bergamot bitterness. 9/10

Cavalier66: "Clynelish is one of those whiskies you wonder why you don't drink more often."
PG: "Almost couldn't."

MR, PT and CC enter the scene.

PT asks what our highlights have been. We explain there are so many and it is easy to spend a fortune, here.
PT: "There's no way I could come to a show like this and pay for the drams!"
me: "That's good for you suckers."

He swiftly reminds us that he has started a distillery and is paying himself peanuts, waiting for the juice to mature, but there is no need. Just friendly banter. ;-)

Macduff 24yo 1984/2008 (46%, Signatory Vintage for Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#877, b#215, L08/498) (JS): nose: a beautiful mix of exotic wood and strawberry. Mouth: soft, fruity, lush, vaguely minty and hugely fruity. Finish: amazing, with crushed raspberry and strawberry yoghurt. 9/10

PT takes a leave. He landed from Japan last night, hardly had any sleep, and went straight to the show, this morning. He is understandably jetlagged. Pity he is not staying longer, but great that he made the effort at all.

Deanston 35yo 1977/2012 (40.4%, The Whisky Agency & The Nectar, 253b) (JS): nose: if possible, this one is even better, with lots of (tropical) fruits -- cut mango, juicy papaya and persimmon. Mouth: satsuma, mango, acidic peach. This is great, innit. Finish: creamy, custard-y, fruity, it has lots of mango, papaya and passion fruit. 9/10

The below starts a string of bad-taste jokes that provoke mixed reactions. For once, it is neither my initiative, nor my show (though I do take part, of course).

MR: "What did the mute blind, deaf kid get for Christmas? ... Cancer."

Speaking of bad taste...

Gizmo makes a surprise appearance.

Glenlochy 1955/2017 (unknown ABV, private cask sample from the Mayfair stash, Refill Sherry Cask, Port Cask Finish) (me): nose: a little sulphury and quite stripping, it has nail polish and dusty shelves. The intensity at such an advanced age is staggering. But then, having tried 40+yo Irish whiskies at 65+%, we should all know it is possible, if not common. Mouth: hot and chocolate-y, powerful as fook, it has dark-chocolate coulis and baked apple. Finish: huge, extremely long, hairy, with fortified wine, all sorts of baked fruit and smoky embers. This is enormous. 9/10

CD: "She has a tattoo of the Springbank 'S'."
PG: "It's better than two 'S's."

I have no idea what is going on, here.

What do you follow a powerful, concentrated Glenlochy with? A powerful, concentrated Glenugie, of course!

Glenugie 31yo 1977/2009 (58.1%, Signatory Vintage Cask Strength Collection, Hogshead, Oloroso Sherry Butt Finish, C#7, 577b, b#19) (me): an old friend who always delivers. Nose: all sorts of noble furniture polish and walnut oils. Mouth: big, nutty, with shoe polish and polished dashboards. Finish: rhaaaa! Dark chocolate (90% at least), roasted cocoa beans and extraordinary wood polish. Once again, simple notes (the setting is not that of a hugely-analytical exercise) for a cracking, cracking dram. 9/10

Talking about Cavalier66's latest centre of interest (fecal transplants to cure Alzheimer, if I simplify grossly):
CD: "Tell us more about this. Well, not about the fecal transplant, but..."
Cavalier66: "Well, it's the latest thing."
CD: "Where?"
Cavalier66: "Well, in your arse. Where else?"

One last one.

Teeling 1st Exceptional Swiss Cask 27yo b.2017 (41.6%, Teeling for Switzerland, Rum Cask, C#658, 68b) (PG): nose: creamy, buttery fruit, mango, papaya, avocado and jack fruit. Mouth: more fruit pornography, so luscious, soft, fruity, but powerful at the same time, perfectly balanced. Finish: I will not take notes any longer. This is simply amazing. Pure pleasure. 10/10

What a day this has been!

23/02/2019 Whisky Show Old & Rare 2019 (Day 1 -- Part 2)

After lunch, I join the Swissky Mafia at Skinner's. They cannot believe the quality of the selection and the reasonable prices. They are right. It is the third year running that Skinner shows up and I have to admit overlooking the stall each year. Old blends, Bourbons and Ryes are all good, but when there is so much else on offer, it is difficult to make the time. This time, we do.

Dallas Dhu 13yo d.1969 (80 US Proof, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice imported by John Cross and Co.): dry, dusty and lichen-y, it also had cut quince. Love it. 8/10

St Magdalene 18yo d.1964 (80 US Proof, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice imported by John Cross and Co.): an amazing nose, all bursting with cut fruit. I take no further note (trying it in CD's glass), but I remember being very impressed by Volanne's too, a few years ago. It turns out to be the exact same pedigree, though this one has a US importer. 10/10

Black Barrel (43%, Berry Bros imported by The Buckingham Corporation): this is from before Rudd entered a partnership with Berry, circa 1910. A pre-war blend, then. Pre-First World War, that is. Nose: holy cow! this is dirrrrrty! Oily rags, engine rooms, soot, crispy bacon and diesel, hot metal and spent matches. Mouth: soft, mellow and honeyed, it is oily in texture and retains just a little of the smoky dirtiness of the nose. What a contrast! Finish: marmalade, sticking to the bottom of the cauldron, heated on an open flame. Stunning! The nose is even dirtier than the mighty Glen Scotia 12yo. 9/10

Dallas Dhu 17yo 1970/1987 (58.3%, Sestante): nose: lots of young wood, ginger and oaky tannins, gentle hazelnut, strong mint and paper paste. Mouth: some bitterness, pronounced wood, peppermint, grated ginger and horsepower aplenty! Finish: it is now almost mojito-like, with sweetness, the freshness of mint and an acidic fruitiness (lime, I would wager). This is woody, but I like it. Or as CD would put it: "I like wood." A strong 8/10

First venture to David Stirk's stand. Nice to see him again. He admits very openly and candidly that he sold off his business, because access to good casks became nigh-on impossible.

Glenkinchie 33yo 1975/2008 (50.7%, Jack Wiebers Whisky World Old Train Line, Bourbon Cask, C#6396, 210b, b#009): three of my favourite things: a Glenkinchie (rare with the independent bottlers), an aged Glenkinchie (rare, full stop) and a Jack Wieber bottling (rare in this country). Nose: porridge and custard, with added ginger shavings. Mouth: warmer on the tongue than expected, it still has the so-called Lowland softness, with coconut cream and custard, as well as a pinch of ginger. Finish: long, custard-y, gently spicy with a hint of rubber. Well, it is gorgeous. 9/10

Longmorn 37yo 1972/2010 (51.3%, The Perfect Dram & Three Rivers, Refill Sherry Wood, 231b): rather non-descript on the nose, it has a good, coating palate and a killer fruity finish. 9/10

Strathisla d.1937 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Duty Free Sample, C#903, sample #9159, drawn 1970s): GMP have brought the goods, this year. Seriously upped their game. This is super-concentrated, with lots of wood and associated spices. 8/10

Glenlossie 42yo d.1938 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice): what a treat! I tried the 43yo recently (no notes), so this one is exciting alright. Nose: loads of dust and old, dusty bookshelves, with orange slices thrown on top. Mouth: mellow, but also sooty, dusty, it has old books and old-school-smoke action. Finish: long, fruity and dirty, dusty. This is elegant. My notes are a bit rubbish; this is superlative, really. 10/10

12.22 35yo 1983/2018 35 and still alive! (43.9%, SMWS Society Cask, 2nd Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 204b): honeyed and fruity, elegant and quaffable. 8/10

Coleburn 26yo 1983/2010 (48.6%, Creative Whisky Company Exclusive Malts, decanter): one of very, very few decanters the company made. Watching the bloke pour from the decanter is a slapstick skit in itself. Nose: spearmint-y freshness and a little mud, in the back. Mouth: creamy and fruity, with an almond touch to it. It also has dried fishing nets or hessian, however. Finish: creamy, nutty and peachy. This is really well made. Possibly one of the best Coleburns around. 9/10

The decanter looks good, too

Ardbeg 1974/1994 (40%, Speymalt Whisky Dist. Spirit of Scotland Celebrating 500 Years of Scotch Whisky imported by Jacques Vins et Spiritueux, b#849, ID/BDJ): nose: dust, coal, soot and charred oak. Mouth: ashes, dried, charred wood, charred oak. Finish: long and drying, it is ashy and fruity at the same time (strawberry). I cannot not think of the Port Ellen Dovr-Tvtes-Mares. A beauty. 9/10

Rosebank 19yo 1990/2009 (52.9%, Acorn Natural Malt Selection for Whiskymanufaktur, Sherry Cask): nose: big, wide, fruity, almost boisterous, but in a softly-spoken way, if that makes sense. Mouth: spicy peach and apricot, black pepper, paprika. Finish: big, muscular, but also fruity and light -- simply high-strength and high-flavour, not invasive. I like it. 8/10

Imperial 17yo 1995/2013 (51.2%, Creative Whisky Company The Tony Koehl Series, C#50079, 279b): "You will have to tell me about the Tony Koehl Series tomorrow, when you are less busy," I tell Stirk. "Good, yeah. It will take a whole two seconds," he replies. :-) Nose: pollen, honey, lilac, concentrated apricot. Mouth: apricot compote, physalis, honey water (if that is a thing) and soaked lilac. Finish: assertive, fruity and light. Excellent. 8/10

Time for one more. Make it count

Coleburn d.1968 (46%, Cadenhead, b.1980s): PT bought the bottle without the neck tag, so it is a NAS. :-) JS is convinced we had this in Dornoch, but she is confusing it with a Convalmore. Nose: an interesting mix of pine, honey, dusty books and honeysuckle. Mouth: balanced, peppery (not too much), dusty and orange-y (dusty oranges), with lots of sugar, too. Finish: again, perfect balance at 46%. A gentle rubber bitterness, waxy cut quince, juicy oranges and a bit of brown acid sugar. Nice. I first had it at 8, but I will go up to 9/10

Phew. We survived the first day (almost) unscathed.

To be continued.

23/02/2019 Whisky Show Old & Rare 2019 (Day 1 -- Part 1)

Yep, here again. The red-eye train is convenient, but it makes me slightly light-headed upon arrival in Glasgow. Ah, well, nothing to worry about too much.
Swift check-in, then into the queue, and in the room in minutes.

Whilst I look around, thinking about where to spend cash I do not have, JS has no second thought and goes straight for the jugular.

99.10 25yo 1980/2005 Complex and intriguing (47%, SMWS Society Cask): because, if one is going to drink crazy things all weekend, one might as well start with a Glenugie. It is nutty and apricot-y on the nose, soft and lush on the palate with a shortish finish. A cracking 'ugie, unsurprisingly. 9/10

The Swissky Mafia is located, greeted, and they give this to taste.

Littlemill 23yo 1990/2014 (55.2%, Creative Whisky Company The Tony Koehl Series, C#36, 176b): Grassy, mellow, and only a little bit fruity. This is not an immediately sexy one, but I like it. 8/10

Also, they show this shot of EG doing
an impression of the recent Thompson Bros.
Bunnahabhain's label

Speaking of Bunnahabhain...

Bunnahabhain 46yo Eich Bhana Lìr (41.8%, OB Duty Paid Sample): the story is that Jonny McMillan sourced this from a (former?) Bunnahabhain employee as a duty-paid sample. The bottle looked like nothing, so Jonny drew a label for it -- which looks rather good, too. The end product comes in a luxurious, if sober decanter with waves across the base, and a massive wooden case. I have been willing to try it for a while. The fact it is not in a decanter here led to Jonny pricing it very fairly indeed. A nice touch. Nose: nutty peaches and soft rubber, playing elegantly. Mouth: it does become pretty rubbery, here, with those black liquorice laces and some tannins. Finish: liquorice is the word, though it is not completely over the top. This is (very) nice, but it is woody. Will not please everyone and, as far as I am concerned, the price of the real thing (ca £5,000 as I type) bears no correlation with the quality of the whisky inside. Still a more-than-satisfactory 9/10

Bowmore 36yo 1969/2006 (44%, Duncan Taylor Peerless, C#6090, 233b, b#61): the day may now start properly. Nose: the fruit is there, as is pronounced rubber and all sorts of seafood notes -- seashells, cockles, smoked oysters. Mouth: some soft fruit again (if one knows to look for them) and elegant rubber, as well as diesel oil, and fishing equipment, including oilskins and rubber wellies (yellow, of course) Finish: long, very salty and rubbery, with only a touch of fruit. A beauty, provided one does not expect an exuberant tropical-fruit avalanche. 9/10

Bowmore 36yo 1966/2002 (43.2%, Duncan Taylor Peerless, C#3306, 201b, b#115): ah! This is a different kettle of mango. A burst of gorgeous tropical fruit jumps at the nose from the glass. Cavalier66 calls a Bowmorgasm. It has a notch of smoke, oysters and... just loads and loads of fruit; melon, maracuja, watermelon, pink grapefruit and the likes. Mouth: it is a little more maritime, here, though it retains the fruit. Finish: concentrated tropical fruit, augmented with a hint of rubber. This is completely glorious, of course, and we all think we have found the dram of the show already. 10/10

Cavalier66 is keen to prolong the "final Bowmorgy... thing," and our resident truffle expert, JS, knows exactly how to do that.

Bowmore 36yo 1966/2002 (40.0%, Hart Brothers Finest Collection): good thing JS is there, since this (and many others) comes from a stall I do not want to visit. :-) Nose: we have a new dram of the show. This one is even fruitier than the DT with less rubber as well, and hot marzipan to round it up. It leads to Bowmore eyes in half a second and it is incredible to see that the juice was bottled at 40.0% and remains so expressive all the same. It simply jumps at you face-hugger style (you know, Alien). Humbling. Mouth: it seems a little more influenced by the sea, here, though the dominant adjectives are still acidic and fruity. Finish: propa mortal, like. Fruity, with mussels, cockles and, well, happiness. It just edges the Duncan Taylor. We will have this three times throughout the weekend, and it will remain on top until the very last half hour (ooh! what a tease :-) ) A very comfortable 10/10

Cavalier66: "This is the Lochside, which, after the Bowmores, tastes a bit more raw; a bit..."
tOMoH: "The word you're looking for is: 'vulgar.'"

Lochside 40yo 1966/2007 (54.4%, Signatory Vintage Cask Strenth Collection, Sherry Hogshead, C#7536, 213b, b#23, 7/0480): nose: it is distinctly woody, on top of the expected fruit. Fruit stones all round, then. It also showcases all sots of oily waxes, very elegant. Mouth: oily and big, it has marmalade and a pine influence. Finish: long, wide and assertive, I want to say 'robust,' even; it has liquorice, cooked fruit and salty wood. Nice. It holds itself together, even though it is in the death seat, coming after what we still reckon is the dram of the show. 9/10

Longmorn 39yo 1969/2009 Gordon & MacPhail Book of Kells exclusive bottling for The Mash Tun and Kask imported by Japan Import System, Refill Sherry Butt, C#5298, 460b, b#188/192): hehe. The bottle number makes no sense, by the way. They seem to all be that way. Nose: at first, a kick of varnish-y wood, then lots of juicy fruit, nuts and old furniture, in typical, sherry-matured, aged Longmorn fashion. Mouth: it becomes a little bitter, here, with plum stone soaking in plum juice. Finish: this is undeniably the strong point of the dram. It has plum and prune juice, dark cherries, furniture polish and no bite at all. A dangerous one that one could easily drink a bottle of overnight. Legendary finish to an otherwise 9 dram. In the circumstance, it is 10/10

You heartthrob, you! Trying to catch whisky geeks in your nets!

Talisker d.1955 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, b. ca late 1970s): nose: cut guava, lots of manuka honey, some dust and crazy apricot (Jack-Nicholson-in-The-Shining crazy). Mouth: super soft, fruity, light with more manuka honey. Finish: mild, mellow, sweet and light with honey and thick jams. This simply confirms that I do like Talisker... provided it was distilled in the 1950s. 9/10

Finally, I manage to grab pat gva's attention. He is carrying a bag... containing bottles, naturally. "Ah! tOMoH. Pass me your glass..."

Cedar Brook Sour Mash b.1913 (100 US Proof, OB): yep. I know. This is from the stash that was discovered late last year and auctioned off. pat gva managed to procure some of it -- and beat SSS to it, which pat tells us giggling like a school girl; a surreal scene if there ever was one. Nose: herbs and aromatics, a medicine cabinet, a botanical garden, pine-needle juice and Turkish delights. The nose stops you in your track, that is for sure! Mouth: soft, mellow, juicy and pine-y, it also has honey and aromatics. Amazing. Finish: very, very beautiful, balanced as fook, it erupts with mint lozenges. None of that sickly vanilla on steroids here, it is all clean, sharp and herbal. A rather emotional moment. Pre-Prohibition liquid, no less! In fact, pre-First World War! pat gva tells us it is a Bourbon, distilled in 1913, bottled in 1919, but the label is clear: sour mash, bottled 1913. 9/10 (Thanks, pat gva)

The Glenlivet Solera drawn 1994 (48.3%, Thompson Bros, 17b, b#5): nose: very fruity, just on the right side of rotten fruit, with added furniture polish. Mouth: mildly-bitter marmalade, soft and juicy, perhaps gently caramelised. Finish: fabulous balance of fruit and dusty books. This is great, though it impresses me less than the first time. 9/10

Time for food. Many skip it, disappointed as they were by the brasserie, last year. I find it better this year, though there is hardly any main left. Since I have decided to be a vegetarian for the weekend, potatoes, vegetables and mushroom sauce will do. The staff seem a little out of their depth, though.

It does the trick

7.25 35yo 1968/2004 Ginger chocolate and prunes (51.7%, SMWS Society Cask): nose: leather, walnut stain, saddles and fine, elegant mocassins. Mouth: mellow, with some walnut, polished leather and prune-y fruit. Finish: wood and walnut stain, crushed plum stones. Very nice. 8/10

Read on here
It takes Cavalier66 a couple of hours to realise JS buys shirts from his secret boutique

22 February 2019

21/02/2019 A few drams at the SMWS

Savoureur is visiting London. It seems like the perfect opportunity to bring him to the SMWS. OB and JS join us.

We start at a reasonable pace, but of course, it barely stays in control when four of us swap glasses and sample more quickly as time passes. Notes will become thinner and thinner. Who wants to read Proustian novels anyway? They can sometimes seem awfully self-indulgent or resemble shameless marketing.

60.28 10yo d.2008 One more unto the peach dear friends (63.5%, SMWS Society Cask, 2nd Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 233b): this is from the mid-month outturn, a wave of bottles that reach some venues, well, in the middle of the month, when the regular outturn of twenty-or-so bottles is almost depleted. It never used to happen, of course, but it is now a frequent occurrence. I cannot remember trying distillery 60 before -- not as an SMWS bottling, that is. Nose: syrupy and thick, peach-y, it has furniture polish, wood stain, dried wood and almond skins (Savoureur, who is very sensitive to almond skins, tonight). Mouth: a bit rougher, but by no means rough rough -- just not as polished as the nose suggested. It has coarse wood (also known as bloody wood, boom-tsch), then red chilli and acidic lime juice. Finish: sophisticated (Savoureur), with a huge wood presence that remains pleasant. Wood stain, crushed almond and baked plantain. This is not a particularly easy malt, but I like it a lot. 8/10

72.70 10yo d.2008 Aromatherapy with margaritas (53.5%, SMWS Society Cask, 1st Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 255b): nose: citrus peel and marzipan, alongside a note of pine needle. The second nosing brings out more herbs: oregano, sage or verbena, almost metallic. Later still, cherries emerge. Mouth: honey, forsythia, almond milk and a warming overtone that never becomes hot. Lovely. Finish: the arrival is characterised by a kick in the throat that introduces a warming, comforting blanket. This is honeyed, peachy and lush. Lastly, marzipan comes back. Amazing quality-to-price ratio, this. 8/10

54.73 11yo d.2006 Sunshine all year round (57.2%, SMWS Society Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 180b): nose: lots of straw and lots of alcohol. I do not really spend enough time with it to detect anything else. Mouth: more mellow on the palate, it has apricot, hot, unsweetened custard and still quite a bite. Finish: custard, much sweeter, this time, and really pretty pleasant. The finish is clearly the strong point of this dram, but it still does not change my life. 7/10

"Clearly, you're full of shit."
Savoureur interjects that no whisky changes one's life anyway. OB and I disagree, even if we admit it does not happen often. JS says nothing, but I know she is on our side.

68.20 11yo d.2006 Ginger beer in a champagne flute (54.7%, SMWS Society Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 305b): another lesser-seen distillery in this place. Nose: dry sand and fat-human sweat. Well, that is appealing... :-| Mouth: bitter orange marmalade and dirty leather. Savoureur talks about the faded seats of an E-Type Jaguar (JS's favourite car), then digresses about whiskyfun's images (Aston Martin is superior, according to the Web master, which is rubbish, in my opinion). Finish: odd and animal, musk-y and nutty (nut skins). This is less my style. It is almost Clynelishian in its wet-fox, animal character. 6/10

66.134 12yo d.2006 Tar very much (59.3%, SMWS Society Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 307b): nose: chocolate, mocha, leather and farm-y peat, as well as bits of wood. Mouth: more leather, gentle peat smoke and horse's hair. Finish: peat and fruit with an added pinch of nut skins. The finish brings an interesting edge to this, with its fresh fruit. Enjoyable. 7/10

There is a hilarious moment when we are brought a plate of cheeses and cutlery for all, whilst JS is ordering at the bar. When she comes back, she thanks me for ordering as I ask her if she did. Quick question to the staff clears up the situation: it is not for us. Good thing we did not dive on it!

Instead, JS orders this! \o/

G5.11 30yo d. 1987 Flash, I love you! (52.4%, SMWS Society Cask, 2nd Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 206b): every time they have a G5, I have to try it -- who could forget the legendary G5.5 and G5.2? This one is part of the mid-month outturn too, which is a good bonus. Nose: crystallised citrus, toasted coconut, cut mango and a gently metallic note to boot. Mouth: soft and sweet, the palate has mango slices and cane sugar. Finish: warming (perhaps a tad too hot) and herbaceous. The fruit subsides in the finish, which is bad news to me, but it remains solid altogether. 8/10

39.172 28yo d.1989 Starry starry night (48.5%, SMWS Society Cask, 2nd Fill Toasted Hogshead, 182b): I remember liking this a lot when it came out and want to share the joy. Nose: an unbelievable fruity-sherried journey, with cherries and exotic fruits revealing themselves. Mouth: soft, luscious, pillow-y, fruity and... well, good. Finish: a soft-yet-amazing kick of exotic fruit rounds off an exemplary sherry maturation. We all agree this is head and shoulders above all the others we have had. 9/10

16.35 7yo d.2007 Dante's mondeo (60.5%, SMWS Society Cask, Re-Charred Hogshead, 317b): I insist on taking this -- a peated Glenturret. A couple of drams after the Ardmore, it does not seem as peaty as when I tried it a couple of weeks ago (no notes), but it is also not a softy-softy one. Nose: meat, rotting on the bone and lots of cold smoke. Mouth: mellow and fruitier than I expected or remembered. Finish: big, powerful, it has wood, musk and refined smoke. Well made, this. Savoureur finds it too young and, certainly, it is not a noble old lady. All the same, I think it is more than just a curiosity. 7/10

10.166 11yo d.2006 It's cocktail thyme (61.8%, SMWS Society Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 188b): nose: fruit precedes mint... and lots of horsepower! Marzipan joins the dance. Mouth: soft(ish), fruity and, actually a little spirit-y too. I suppose it starts off soft, then turns out to be rather strong. Finish: big, powerful, slightly herbaceous in the fashion of a pumpkin risotto (rosemary, garlic). Again, rather well made. 7/10

Enough for the day. Savoureur has been walking all day and is on painkillers, after twisting his wrist. He has understandably had enough. Just as well, perhaps: it is a school night, after all. Food at Kolossi Grill (does the trick!), then off to bed.

15 February 2019

14/02/2019 Whiskies for Love and times past

EG sent a couple of modest samples ahead of this year's Whisky Show Old & Rare, so they can be enjoyed without rushing, and so we can talk about them in G-Town. Today seems like the ideal night to show and share some love.

Setting the context

Bowmore 1968/1977 (59.7%, OB imported by Fecchio & Frassà, Sherry Cask, C#222, 280b): a very, very rare bottle that, to be honest, I had never heard of until the sample reached these shores. Where truffle-pig EG found this, no-one will ever know for sure, probably. Nose: it is a thick and syrupy fragrance, with elderberry sap and wood-stain notes that soon give way to nuttier aromas (almonds, Brazil, Macadamia, perhaps cocoa beans and peach stones) and furniture polish. It smells rather oily, though I cannot quite decide what type of oil exactly. It also has a fortified-wine note that is kept in check and, therefore, remains pleasant -- Madeira, I say. Pan-fried nuts, then deglazing of said pan with Madeira. The Sherry influence smothers the fruit that comes expected with the pedigree. That said, it is a brilliant Sherry maturation! Mouth: wow! It reveals itself, here. Still not many fruits to begin with, but the elderberry that is there is superb. The longer it dances on the tongue, the more berries come out of the woods -- raspberry, strawberry, blueberry, blackberry, blackcurrant. There is a dose of tame smoke in the back of the palate, complementing jams made of all those berries. Chocolate coulis and cherry-stuffed praline are there too. The second sip brings a salty and gently coastal touch into the picture, with anchovies and smoked shellfish. Finish: ooft! The first thing that comes to mind is how well integrated the alcohol is. This is almost 60%?!?!? It is a smoky-earthy number, not unlike a Black, though with no tropical fruit in sight. Some of the berries are still there, even more timid than on the nose. A very soft and fleeting note of fresh peach appears for a fraction of a second, before vanishing with a giggle. Coming back to it after the second dram, it has bolder fruit, mostly citrus (tangerine and mandarine). Not bad, for a whisky younger than ten! 9/10 (Thanks for the sample, EG)

Bowmore 1964/1987 (46%, Brae Dean Int. imported by Moon Import The Birds, Sherry Cask, C#1546, 240b, b#030): no comment. Nose: holy cow! It does not matter that I know what to expect; these fruity ones always stir me. The first nosing is dusty as fook, inky (blue ballpoint), and vaguely fruity, but the second sniff, a few minutes later, is a slap in the face. Lychee, mangosteen, dragon fruit, mango. The fruits come and go, strangely: soon, it is more ink and watercolour, pencil eraser and rosé wine. Actually, the wine note becomes more pronounced and darker: it is red wine now, from Bordeaux... aaaaand it is back to tropical fruits in no time. Next are crushed almonds and raspberries, alongside wood. Further nosing turns fruity again, with more mango and strawberry lipstick. Much later, a whiff of egg-y sulphur comes through. Mouth: amazingly, it seems stronger in alcohol than the Fecchio & Frassà! It is also fresher, with crushed mint, gorse, crisp celery stalks and pine sap. The texture is that of velvety fruit nectar, yet there is little fruit to speak of, besides apricot. The second sip showcases subtle passion fruit, crisp and a little acidic, with a dash of pink-grapefruit juice. This is beautiful alright! Finish: very long and very acidic, it leaves the whole tongue and palate a bit rough. Next to that are custard, almond milk, pink-grapefruit segments and citrus peel. This is a cracking dram. Perhaps not as immediate as other 1964, but cracking nonetheless. I file it in the same category as the Duthie for Corti Brothers. 9/10 (Thanks for the sample, EG)

It is time for bed and dinner is still in the oven, untouched. All the same, this seems like the right moment to have one more dram.

Bowmore 40yo 1955/1995 (42%, OB, Bourbon Hogshead re-racked into Sherry Butt, 306b, b#176): nose: it does not matter how high we were flying; we are now on another level. In fact, it is quite a few levels higher. This time, the first things that show up are exotic fruit and, immediately, Bowmore eyes. Mangosteen, carambola, persimmon, mango, guava, papaya, lychee, jackfruit, but also grapes, peach, apricot, plum, mirabelle plum, raspberry, satsuma, pomegranate and, I am sure, others. Deeper nosing reveals a good dose of ink, blotting paper, perhaps the most minute note of sea air (at least the associated freshness) and effin' happiness. Wet sand develops a bit, maybe a pinch of coffee grounds, but really, everything and anything is so perfectly integrated and overshadowed by the unreal fruitiness that it is pointless trying to understand it fully. Mouth: by the Great Cthulhu! This is so elegant. It has the freshness of tropical fruit, the acidity of citrus and the lush character of an exotic holiday. Jackfruit, persimmon, mango, papaya, all sorts of melons, dragon fruit, satsuma, banana, passion fruit, mangosteen, tinned pineapple, lemon marmalade, squashed apricot, Chinese gooseberry, lime segments, Turkish delights, orange blossom... This is completely mind-boggling. Finish: never-ending and seriously humbling, it has a further avalanche of fruit (I am tired of listing them) alongside sea air and sandy beaches. A minuscule note of smoke rounds things up. Overall, it is a huge struggle to try and describe something like this, to reduce it to a sequence of words, when the emotion felt is so gripping. Nothing I write about it does it justice, and any attempt almost feels vulgar. Perhaps, one day, literature will invent words to convey the fascination savouring this otherworldly liquid. Until then, I will have to find comfort in the fact I have not had many better whiskies than this one. In fact, I have had exactly one. Somehow, I am not convinced that will ever change. 17/10 (Thank you, life)