03/11/2025 Balmenach-Glenlivet

Balmenach-Glenlivet 19yo 1961/1980 (46%, Cadenhead): nose: it presents a wonderful mix of apricot jam and honey-glazed sage. Then, out of nowhere, a cloud of thyme smacks one in the nose, almost smoky. Very seasonal. It continues with a proper thyme infusion, the kind mothers used to bathe their infant in to sweat out a cold, several decades ago. Now, let me be clear: the sweet, jammy side from earlier does not leave entirely, but it very much fades into the background, replaced by old copper coins in an old leather pouch -- so old, in fact, that it is all hardened and crackly. We find all sorts of old, oxidised metals, actually: copper, zinc, lead and iron, with a veil of dust covering all of them -- thyme dust. How comforting! Rustic cuisine for wounded souls, this is. The second nose is earthier and more root-y, with dried earth, dried galangal roots, dried sugar beets... Oh! Black shoe polish applied onto combat boots (ABL 1972, for those who know). That is augmented with a spray of windscreen defroster, which is well unexpected. Even more unexpected is that it works! Decaying mosses and sphagnum join later, akin to the residue at the bottom and on the sides of an empty freshwater aquarium. Mouth: it reclaims its jammy character on the tongue, with peach jelly, apricot compote and stewed Mirabelle plums. A bit of chewing pushes a metallic shade to the front, and we are suddenly invaded by sheet metal, steel, copper sheets and aluminium cans. Lurking in the background, herbs are obviously on the prowl, waiting for their moment to strike. It is sage and thyme again, a bay leaf or two, hawthorn and gentian. Further chewing adds tree bark, gently smoked. All those herbs and metal, naturally, provide some bitterness, yet it is a balanced bitterness: dry, and not at all a nuisance. Imagine a cup of green tea, perhaps. The second sip has stagnant water and dried algae encrusted on the sides of a glass vase. That is soon submerged by lukewarm coffee, then topped with caster sugar. As earlier, the undeniable bitterness is balanced by a pleasant sweetness. It even has soot, after a while, splashed with milk, and Mokatines, at once bitter and sweet. Finish: coffee-soaked custard-cream biscuits, mocha custard, and crème brûlée topped with lemon-thyme leaves. If that reads like a departure from the nose and palate, it really is not; it seems their logical continuation instead. Soothing, comforting, it will not allow the obvious bitterness to be anything else than a supporting act. How it achieves that is by putting the focus on creamy, sweet dessert-y notes: crème brûlée or panna cotta, custard, tiramisu, lukewarm cappuccino, or affogato. There are fewer herbs, here; a distant, lonely bay leaf in the custard, at most -- and why the hell not? The second gulp is in line, yet milkier. It is single cream, rather than custard, which removes nothing from the overall comforting feel. Superlative dram. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)

01/11/2025 All Saints at the SMWS

It was made clear to tOMoH that tOMoH should definitely visit the SMWS on the 1st November. There was, of course, no obligation, but Dr. CD would bring something special that tOMoH would certainly want to try. tOMoH is prone to FOMO, so, tOMoH is going to the SMWS.

Glenwyvis 4yo 2020/2025 (57.9%, OB for Christopher Davies, Oloroso Firkin, C#90, 48b): nose: a big Sherry maturation, with a little mineral touch (limestone, slate, brimstone) and smoke. It has an elderberry-like, rancio-y sweetness in the back, and a whiff of animal musk, warming and comforting (musk rat, water vole, or a fox's den). Later on, we have a whisper of Cologne too. The second nose has melted dark chocolate and cocoa-bean shavings. Mouth: big, it has a strong alcohol kiss, hair balls and an avalanche of juicy raisins. There is a lick of old, dusty boiler too, with corroded metal and, well, encrusted dust. The second sip is drier: limestone dust, limescale, brimstone again, sand paper, even. And then we come back to berries -- elderberries, blackcurrants and prunes. It has a drop of hot water too, in which Kluwak nuts have soaked. Finish: remarkably behaved, sweet, with a pronounced bitterness to round it off. The sweetness (raisins, prunes, cured peaches) lingers and leaves a comfortable glow. The second gulp is warmer, giving away hot zinc, hot coffee grounds and hot dusty boilers. My first Glenwyvis, and it is rather convincing. 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, Dr. CD)

78.90 10yo 2014/2024 Tempura gâteau train ride (57.9%, SMWS Society Cask, ex-Bourbon Hogshead finished in 1st Fill ex-Oloroso Hogshead, 192b): nose: treacle and Kluwak nuts. What!? Here is a note I have never used before, and now twice in as many drams. Anyway, this is full of beef stock, Bovril, stock cubes (Maggi, Knorr, you know the score). It also has dried mushrooms and root-y aromas. In other words, it is an earthy one. Burnt paper appears as one tilts the glass. The second nose has a fairly-ashy touch, whereas water reveals dark honey (tar-like, to be accurate). Mouth: strangely, it is prunes and raisins, rehydrated and mixed with burnt paper. Chewing adds sweetness... and spices! Curry powder, chilli powder, ground cassia bark, garam masala. The second sip is sweeter yet, with fruit jellies, candied angelica and chewy Turkish delights. Finish: huge, earthy and prune-y, it gains liquorice allsorts upon repeated quaffing. Perhaps we also detect Vegemite, though it is sweeter than that. 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, GT)

4.394 15yo 2010/2025 Pâtisseries and perfumeries (61.8%, SMWS Society Cask, ex-Bourbon Hogshead finished in 1st Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 232b): nose: smoked mud. This has a very farm-y and smoky profile, soon topped with lemon-drizzle cake. The farm-y tones calm down at second nosing, leaving fruits (some of them smoky) to do the talking. Mouth: oh! how lemon-y. White grapefruit, smoked pineapple, smoked papaya cubes (!) and a whisper of seafood (cockles?) The second sip is teeming with citrus fruits -- calamansi, pomelo, shaddock, Ugli fruit, maybe even cherimoya. Finish: huge (check out the ABV), it has smoked and preserved lemons and bright, sun-drenched hay fields. Fruitier with each sip, this falls under the weight of pineapple, grapefruit, pomelo and calamansi. Excellent surprise. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, Dr. CD)

76.72 20yo 1989/2010 Sunday Roast (59.2%, Society Single Cask, First Fill ex-Sherry Butt, 565b): nose: pickle brine is soon joined by mussels in wine (it is a month in -ber, after all) and crushed seashells. The second nose brings preserved lemons and grapefruits, and even tame pastry, to an extent. Mouth: this is unexpectedly balanced. It peddles sweetness, fruitiness and a mineral touch. Indeed, it has candied grapefruit and quarry dust caught in a deep debate. Finish: desert dirt, quarry dust and bone-dry grapefruit zest. On top of that is a good dose of plank-y birch. A good Mortlach, even if I reckon that parcel of casks peaked a little later on, when they hit mid-to-late twenties. 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, GT)

What a trap! I went, thinking I would be out in thirty minutes or so, and ended up staying more than two hours. :-)

31/10/2025 Tomatin

Tomatin 1964/1995 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice, IE/14): nose: honey-glazed plums coated in dust. Ah! these old minis... In the background, we also have candied cherries that disappear as soon as one brings the glass closer to one's nose. How peculiar! We continue with glazed red onions, hair gel, glossy paper and magazines hot off the press. This is rather glossy, to put it succinctly. Some breathing allows oily tobacco to take part, followed by concrete dust and faint industrial glue. The second nose is smokier. It is neither The Quest for Fire, nor the Industrial Revolution, yet it gives dusty-engine vibes all the same, with the fruity nose now safely in the back seat. Unless we are talking about chestnuts roasting in a brasero. Something vaguely mineral develops, over time, stone chippings of an unidentified provenance. It even has remote chocolate, upon repeated nosing. Mouth: it is still a tad briny, but it soon reclaims its glossiness. Magazines, glazed cherries, glazed chestnuts, yellow fruits in a layer of Golden Syrup... Chewing confirms apricots coated in caramelised honey, and injects a nuance of tobacco. This is not a smoky whisky on the palate, yet one would not have to stretch to picture a wood-panelled room in which gentlemen routinely smoke. It also has Cracotte or Original Ryvita crackerbread, augmented with some bland spread. Then, it is blond-tobacco smoke through retro-nasal olfaction, and crunchy toast. The second sip is fruitier, with unripe plums, nectarines also not ready to be consumed, and scarlet Morello cherries. Despite a dash of warm caramel coulis, this is fruity, but not that sweet. Lastly, bitter-orange marmalade shows up. Yum! Subsequent sips are more drying, then almost immediately juicy. Finish: pleasant, if assertive, it has more toast, now covered with cream cheese and honey occupying half the surface each. There is a lingering, soft-but-clear creamy bitterness that coats the palate, as if imparted by Macadamia or chestnuts. The second gulp sees a fruit compote eaten off a cardboard plate, a Biscotte with a dollop of marmalade and some tame wood spices, chiefly stem ginger. At the death, we spot a puff of tobacco smoke, blown on granite dust through an old zinc straw. Further sips are more straightforward, giving a lovely marmalade tone with fresh banana slices. This is not what I expected, but it is very good. 8/10

28/10/2025 A few drams at 3 Greek Street

JS and I join SW and TS for a few drams. The accent is on socialising, rather than extensive notes.

Tormore 31yo 1992/2024 (40.1%, Milroy Vintage Reserve, Hogshead, C#101180)

Nose: soft, elegant, it has bunches of flowers and fragrant apricots.
Mouth: delicate tropical fruits tickle the tongue.
Finish: marvelous apricots topped with a dusting of confectionary sugar.
Comment: wow. Have we peaked too soon? 9/10

Clydeside d.2018 (61.6%, Cask Sample, 1st Fill Oloroso Cask)

Comment: I pour this. My notes are here. Today, it is... 7/10

Benriach 25yo 1995/2020 (49.1%, Maltbarn, Sherry Cask, B#169, 140b)

Nose: pretty farm-y and leathery, it reeks of old saddles, old belts, and a blacksmith's leather apron. It has a hint of sulphur too.
Mouth: spirit-y and leathery again, with a serving of copper coins.
Finish: long, it has grapes and leather.
Comment: decent. 7/10

Distilled in Dufftown 20yo 1999/2009 (58%, Adelphi Selection, Refill PX Sherry Cask, C#2140, 238b)

Nose: pressed raisins and cinnamon rolls.
Mouth: spicy and raisin-y, this has cured cherries and rehydrated dried cranberries.
Finish: chewy prunes, raisins and blackberry gum.
Comment: funnily, this is not from Dufftown distillery, but from a distillery in Dufftown -- one that starts with a 'B' and ends with '-venie'. A good Sherry maturation at play, here. On another day, I may go for 8. Tonight, 7/10

North British 30yo 1992/2022 (43.5%, Thompson Bros. bottled for Royal Mile Whiskies, 2 x Refill Barrels, 276b)

Nose: custard cream served in a metal bowl.
Mouth: blackcurrant, Invergordon-style, and chewy toffee.
Finish: bright, fruity, it has Mirabelle plums and peach jelly.
Comment: missed this one at Whisky Fringe, so glad to get another chance. It is lovely. 8/10

Hudson Single Malt 4yo (46%, OB, Oak Casks)

Nose: herbal liqueur, a blend of treacle and génépi. Or is it Mirto Dorada?
Mouth: this is herbal and medicinal, though it remains pleasant.
Finish: creamy, much more nutty-chocolate-y than the nose and mouth.
Comment: perhaps my first Hudson, after seeing it on shelves for years. 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, TS)

Clynelish 26yo 1993/2019 (49.8%, OB Prima & Ultima, 4 x Refill American Oak Hogsheads, 941b, b#819)

Mouth: I love it from the off. Creamy candles, spent wick and flavoured lipstick.
Mouth: holy fook, how waxy this is! It is like drinking a melted candle.
FInish: long, it masterfully blends apricots and candlewax.
Comment: P.H.W.O.A.R. Cthulhu knows I want to dislike anything from this very-pricy collection, but a masterpiece like this is hard to honestly dislike. 9/10

Ben Nevis 28yo 1996/2025 (51.8%, Milroy Vintage Reserve, Hogshead, 1583b)

Nose: a handful of greasy earth fails to conceal a lot of fruits.
Mouth: papaya by the wheelbarrow. It still has some earth, but it is mostly a fruit bomb.
Finish: big, bold, tropical, full of papaya and chikoo, the latter covered in earth.
Comment: ridiculously good. 9/10

Strathmill 20yo 1997/2017 (59.1%, Lorne Mackillop Mackillop's Choice, Sherry Butt, C#4112, 520b)

Nose: pressed raisins, pickled onions and a whiff of hessian sacks.
Mouth: oh! yeah, this is pickled alright, teeming with pearl onions and prunes tucked in between.
Finish: sweet, reminiscent of a sweet shoppe.
Comment: this is okay, though less my thing, in terms of Sherry maturation. 7/10

Invergordon 49yo 1972/2021 (44.4%, Maltbarn, Bourbon Cask, B#191, 87b)

Nose: the trademark Invergordon blackcurrant.
Mouth: wide at first, it quickly becomes tighter and acidic. Then, it is the expected torrent of blackcurrant.
Finish: an onslaught of juicy blackcurrant.
Comment: phwoar! On any other day, I would wager this scores 9. But there is no justice, tonight, and it is... 8/10

In the middle of this, an American visitor (PM) joins us. SW takes good care of him and explains he received a special bottle from one of his suppliers. Then, he fetches said bottle and pours us all a dram.

Tomintoul 50yo 1973/2023 Double Wood Matured (42.9%, OB Vintage, Bourbon Barrel + Oloroso Sherry Hogshead, C#261, 281b, b#8)

Comment: upon seeing the bottle, I reckon it is the one I took notes for here. Turns out it is another, longer-aged expression. Suffice to say it is a remarkably-elegant drop, even this late in the game. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, SW)

It seems inappropriate to try this young Ben Nevis now.
The label makes it in theme for Burns' Night (wink-wink)

What a place! Full of unsuspected treasures.

27/10/2025 The BenRiach

The BenRiach 33yo 1976/2009 (51.6%, OB Limited Release Bottling specially selected and bottled for La Maison du Whisky, Hogshead, C#3551, 191b): nose: warm, welcoming honey turns into a burst of juicy tropical fruits, mango and maracuja, leading the pack. Behind them are carambola, canary melon, nectarines and plump apricots. Say, we are in for a treat, are we not? Apricot jam introduces the minutest whiff of smoke, as if the cauldron in which the jam had simmered was still on the embers of the kitchen hearth. More fruits come out soon: yellow cherry tomatoes and papaya join the above, though it remains (yellow) maracuja's game. The second nose unleashes a torrent of (milk-)chocolate mousse waiting for strawberry coulis. That turns into a milky chocolate sponge cake, then chocolate shortbread in seconds. How lovely! There is a whisper of dried wood mingling with cocoa powder and those shortbreads. Where have the fruits gone? Mouth: a strangely-bitter attack, it has rubber boots, rubber gloves, and none of that comes with unripe hazelnuts or flower stems -- phew! Just one chew reactivates the yellow fruits, much to this taster's delight. Maracuja is perhaps even louder than it was on the nose, and practically smothers everything else. Competing to be heard, we spot apricots, nectarines, papayas, carambolas, unripe almonds, creamy and bitter, and grape juice pointing at vinegar. Chewing some more adds pressed raisins, a dusting of cinnamon powder, and mango skins. Still that bitterness, eh? The second sip is similarly fruity and bitter, now pushing cocoa beans alongside carambola and dragon fruit. It musters up more acidity than ever before -- maracuja's last hurrah, clearly. Finish: creamy, pulp-like. Here is a smoothie made of all the afore-mentioned fruits and augmented with ground hazelnuts. Long, lingering, a tad bitter, and very, very fruity. As it settles in, it acquires smashed raspberries, blackcurrants and blackberries. It has the acidity and the slight bitterness of wild berries, in other words, and loses its tropical character somewhat. The second gulp sees smashed pineapple flesh coated in cocoa powder. There is a lick of mocha too, hot tin, but, to the death, it stays fruity-and-three-quarters, with even a puff of durian as a last note. Brilliant. 9/10 (Thanks for the sample, OB)