29/11/2020 Two Glen Scotias

93.129 10yo d.2009 For sharing with good company (57.9%, SMWS Society Cask, 1st Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 225b): nose: ah! It is an austere nose, with metal tools, old copper coins and gravel, perhaps even flint. It has the tiniest fruitiness, more Sauvignon blanc than crisp apple. Lemon juice licks limestone, and then funk crashes the party. Drying mud, a distant clogged sink, a well-worn-out abrasive sponge, citrus detergent on limescale in an aluminium sink. Finally, lime peel, braising on the barbecue grille. Second nosing brings forth candlewax and spent wick -- this is not a modern, easily-accessible whisky, if such a thing exists. Smoke from a gas stove? Mouth: acidic and astringent, this feels a little young, perhaps. Behind the youth, preserved lemons rub feathers with milk chocolate, but that is soon eclipsed by a huge dose of salt and beach sand. Very drying indeed, the Sauvignon blanc acts as a black hole for saliva. The second sip comes with a whisper of smoke, closer to a trapper's leather coat after a night in a cabin than a proper camp fire. Finish: long and assertive, it has the above notes of salt, citrus and sand most prominently, then barely-ripe green grapes, limestone, limescale, even, and a drop of detergent. The mineral side is shyer than on the nose, yet it is there alright. Apple slices, marinated in rum, orange rinds, left to dry to stone on the gas stove -- yes, the smoke is there, even if it is too shy, shy, hush hush, eye-to-eye. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, MSo)

Glen Scotia 12yo Full Proof (54%, A. Gillies imported by F&G, b#0983, b.1980s): full proof at 54%. Lolle. (Full proof is 57%). This made a great impression at Dornoch. Nose: strangely enough, it smells much more welcoming than the previous dram. Warm apple chutney, apricot jam in the pot, then bada-bing! The same mineral touch surfaces; limestone, flint, graphite. Then old, dog-eared paperbacks, ink-stained blotting paper, pencil lead and warm metal (closer to a stove, than to a boiler). The longer one sniffs it, the more austere it seems to become, with a faint smoke, old copper coins and metal tools, oxidising away in their box, verdigris, lichen on limestone and a drop of lime juice. Ten minutes in, it is the industrial revolution, as I remembered it, all metal and power. Mouth: quite a bit sweeter than expected and than its predecessor, it has rum apples, grape juice, baked conference pears (the texture of the skins, especially), but also candied angelica and undeniable underlying power. One can almost count the horsepower, so vibrant it is on the tongue. Old metal screwdrivers, verdigris-covered copper coins, oxidised screws and nails... We are in an era before stainless steel and aluminium became ubiquitous, an era when rust was the logical end of the road for any metallic contraption. Red-chilli powder appears as a late guest. Finish: softer than in my memory, it remains big and warming, with the same rum apples, lichen on limestone and verdigris, metal stoves, heated red, faint smoke and brimstone. Perhaps walnut shells can be tasted too, playing second role to dusty-and-rusty boilers, disused lead pipes, clogged with hair decades ago. The more one sips it, the more characterful this becomes, ruthless and uncouth, if not indomitable. This dram gives no fuck whatsoever. What it do is what it be, and it is all the more charming for it! 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)

28/11/2020 Clearing the shelf #27

Clynelish 22yo 1997/2019 (56.3%, Alambic Classique, Bourbon Barrel, C#19302, 174b): nose: discrete furniture polish, polished marbled floors (black marble), lacquered cabinets and a bit of sawdust-y rancio. Dried apricots are there too, and, much further away, a drop of honeysuckle sap. Candlewax (but of course!), clover. I find the nose subdued, today. Good, but quieter than the other day. Mouth: it starts mellow on the tongue, yet the heat soon increases, with hot candlewax and dried apricot slices, pulled from the oven, if that makes sense. It is coating, though not sticky, more hot fruit juice than jam or compote. Wax ends up taking over, warm, coating, even slightly bitter (unlit wick or new rubber). Finish: juicy and apricot-y, the finish is the strong point, in my opinion. Warm quince paste, warm apricot spread and hot wax, with even a soupçon of spent wick, now. The retronasal olfaction is waxy as hell and almost vegetal in its delicate bitterness -- diluted dandelion sap. Lovely stuff. 8/10

Ardmore 21yo 1997/2019 (49.4%, Whisky-Doris The Art Nouveau Collection, Bourbon Hogshead, C#901456, 180b): nose: smoked herbs and baked mud, in pure Ardmore style. Silt, freshwater algae, drying on the banks of the river, kept moist by the lapping. Aside all that is a distinct barbecue smell, yet not really meat. Is it smoked tofu? Pottery in the baking (that is a nice pun, no?), tinned cocktail sausages (Zwan), then smoked shredded cabbage and cigar leaves. Mouth: refreshing, minty or pine-sappy, while also gel-like in texture, thick and, well, fresh. Later on, a touch of wood comes through (balsa), soft spices (lovage seeds, fennel seeds) and a cucumber coolness. This is surprisingly fresh, tonight. Simple, but fresh. It has some kind of flower that I cannot pinpoint. Smoked lily of the valley, maybe? Finish: again, very fresh, perhaps a little less clean than the palate, with remnants of the algae from the the nose (it is definitely nori, here), if not the silt. The tinned sausages are present too, with about as much meat in them as a vegetable lasagna. It has a soft smoky touch, even more tame than on the nose; could it be smoked algae, rather than tofu? Actually, it even feels like milk chocolate, stuffed with smoked mint. Now, there is a market opportunity! This one too presents a different experience to the first time. 8/10

27/11/2020 Dornoch X Bimber

 A virtual tasting co-hosted by the Thompson brothers of the Dornoch distillery, Dariusz Plazewski, Bimber's founder/manager, and Farid Shawish, Bimber director.

Auchroisk 31yo 1989/2020 (44.9%, Thompson Bros., Refill Sherry Puncheon, 122b): I would lie if I said this is not the one I am looking most forward to. Nose: sweet, it has Turkish delights and cherry glazing. It is also rather discreet, and I cannot smell much else. Mouth: light, soft, sweet and delicate, with a gentle bitterness (blood oranges, I reckon). Finish: long and citrus-y, sweet in a calamansi way, yet it is met with the bitterness of orange peels. At the death, super-dark chocolate appears too, much to my liking. Delicious. I have a bit left and am looking forward to trying it again. 8/10

The brothers explain that moving wares from the old distillery building to the new one is an administrative headache.
Audience: "If you need to build a roof to join the two buildings together, let me know: I can help."

Dornoch d.2018 (59.5%, cask sample, C#123): made with Belgian-ale yeast and American brewer's yeast. The barley is of the plumage archer variety, arguably less famous than its sister Tasmin. Nose: this is unlike anything I have ever had! Bacon crisps (Grills or Frazzles, depending on which side of the Channel one lives), burnt fruit stones, crackers (wheatsheaf digestives, to be precise), and a generally bready nose, altogether. Slightly smoky too, funnily enough. Plum eau-de-vie shows up later. Mouth: sharp and warming, the palate sees rye crackers with a touch of smoke (mezcal is mentioned several times) and ash. Finish: a bit new-make-y, here, with plum eau-de-vie, but also gravel and dried herbs in beer. 6/10

PT: "In pure Scottish fashion, you're wearing a kilt for the tasting?"
ST: "Who is not wearing trousers, tonight?"

Dornoch d.2019 (65.45%, cask sample, ex-Laphroaig Quarter Cask, C#160): this one was made with spent brewer's yeast from the Cromarty brewery. Nose: butyric and drying mud, after a downpour. Then, it is herbal tonic water, before turning to butter and lime peel. Mouth: mineral as fook, it has limestone, flint and, a minute later, that plum eau-de-vie that the first had. Lime juice and peel are there too, as well as smoky tonic water -- and is that quinine? Finish: tabasco sauce (JS), herbs-marinated ribs, char-grilled on the barbecue. The second sip turns ashy, very ashy indeed, with burnt bracken and burnt lime peel. 7/10

JS: "I'm getting tabasco sauce, in this."
PT: "We need JS to source us some quality hot sauce to do finishes!"

Dornoch 3yo 2017/2020 (59.4%, OB, Sherry Cask, C#001): the first release of Dornoch whisky. Nose: a dark and deep sherry influence, though not overpowering. Sultanas, Smyrna raisins, dried dates. The plum eau-de-vie has all but disappeared, after a mere three years in wood. I would say pot soil, but it smells so sweet that cannot be it! Mouth: here, it is still sharp and wet behind the ears, sweet with sultanas and golden syrup, yet also a little plummy (the unripe fruit, not the spirit made from it). Finish: extraordinarily sweet, teeming with sultanas and Smyrna. It is almost too sweet for me, actually. Fortunately, a pinch of scorched earth appears, towards the death, which keeps it on the straight and narrow. 7/10

Bimber 3yo 2017/2020 (57.9%, Thompson Bros. for the UK, C#167): nose: toasted bread, Krisprolls, then, suddenly, marshmallow storms the scene. Purple marshmallow (violet-flavoured?) and blackcurrant. The second nose is more traditional, with vanilla and custard cream. Mouth: sweet in a boiled-sweet sort of way, with violets, lavender and blueberries, as well as blackberries. Finish: a soft note of burnt brambles over blackberry jam, blueberry, jam, blackcurrant jelly, myrtle jam and a pinch of gentle chilli powder. Impressive. 7/10

Dariusz explains that they control the temperature of the washbacks artificially, as summers in London now reach thirty to forty degrees. ST explains that, in Dornoch, they just switch yeast types.

Bimber 3yo 2017/2020 (57.9%, Thompson Bros. for export, C#171, 250b): nose: berries and toast again, perhaps darker, if that makes sense, with more raisins, then blackberries and dark jams on rye bread. Mouth: mellow, perhaps a little more velvety than the previous cask, still with the berries and a progressively-more-intense chilli. Finish: myrtle, blueberry, blackberry chutney and woody jam. I find it remarkably similar to C#167, which, considering they are sister casks, is not entirely surprising. Some like this one better; they are the same level of quality to me. 7/10

Bimber (57.9%, OB, Re-Charred Cask, C#144, 303b): nose: this one is more pine-y, with cedar-wood sheets, then vanilla, before it turns into génépi. Later on, a whiff of parmesan appears, strangely enough. Mouth: another soft number, with warm custard, this time, a pinch of spices (ground cardamom) and toffee. Finish: yeah, another drop of custard (minty custard, here), butterscotch, toffee caramel (Quality Street's Toffee Penny). Very nice. 7/10

Nice sesh, informative and entertaining. I would have liked a bit more structure, but the pace was ideal.

Many lurkers again, though, and the same as the ones who attend the East Coast tastings, if the names are anything to go by: not a word all evening, cameras off, zero engagement.

23/11/2020 This is an Esk-distillery

 Monty is not here to try this with me, but I do know someone who is learning Python. And this distillery is dead.

Glenesk 1982/1995 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice imported by La Maison du Whisky, IE/BDB): nose: cardboard, at first, then vinegar. It is not the dodgy vinegar from the official twelve-year-old, though; rather a soft brine and pickled red onions. Another minute, and it is walnuts, fallen off the tree, laying on the lawn, waiting to be picked up (and to stain the hands that do so!) Walnut vinegar, walnut liqueur, then kalamata olives in brine -- oh! this is brine-y indeed. A touch of (brown) shoe polish (the tubed kind), papier mâché, greasy newspapers from an old chip shop. Lastly, cardboard ashes emerge, mixed in with fresh mandarin peels. Mouth: unexpectedly sweet, it has the bitterness of walnut skins to supplement walnut liqueur, and a drop of orange juice. There is a remnant of the brine, but it is softy-soft; perhaps the brine of a jar of pickled red onions was used to deglaze a frying pan in which red-onion slices were fried until they caramelised and released all their sweetness. The reduction is clear, yet it does not affect the whisky too negatively, I reckon, keeping the vinegar in check. Finish: it has an edge -- an almost-cardboardy, fleeting edge. That disappears almost as soon as it is felt, to leave the velvety impression of a well-balanced walnut liqueur again. Caramelised red onions, soft and sweet, walnut oil and distant Virginia tobacco. Not the complexest and not necessarily the most easily accessible, but totally up my alley! 8/10

Alright, here it is:

19 & 22/11/2020 Lesser-known Speysiders

Because of COVID-19, meeting in person, let alone travelling, is not really feasible, right now. That means the yearly bash at dom666's has been canned. I suggested he plan for a virtual tasting instead, but he could not see it happening. So, JS and I stole his date and sent lots of blind samples, so we could have a shindig all the same.

Naturally, my friends are all jet-setters busy applying for visas to travel from the kitchen to the living room, so no single day saw everyone available. We had to spread it over two non-consecutive days. It means I get to try the whiskies twice and have twice as much fun, so all good! :)

On 19/11, we have: JS, adc, Psycho, ruckus, STL, red71, Bishlouk, me.
On 22/11, we have: JS, adc, Psycho, sonicvince, kruuk2, PSc, dom666 and me. Poor kruuk2 does not have the samples: dom666 had the demanding task of splitting 6cl into three for himself, PSc and kruuk2; unfortunately, he only got the 6cl in August and had no time to do the split by November. To be fair, the initial plan was for all of them to congregate to the same place. PSc is sorted, somehow.

Anyway.

Let us get going...

Dram #1 (JS)

Nose: custard, JS finds subtle vanilla and some lemon, while adc finds it spring-like. Bishlouk detects elderflowers too. Alcohol comes out strong, next to the vanilla (PSc), old wood (PSc) and a hint of caramelised puffed rice.
Mouth: "autumnal," says adc, when Bishlouk reckons it bites the tongue, a bit (he has been French-kissing his cat, no doubt). Psycho can taste cork, and STL has damp earth. I find it acidic on the tongue too. Caramelised popcorn (JS), maple syrup, dark honey and citrus (PSc, who specifies it is oranges, not lemons).
Finish: the finish is long, astringent and lemon-y, almost sparkling, with rock salt and ginger. PSc, on the other hand, finds it fresh, dense and with a hint of kirsch.
Comment: detailed notes here.

Dailuaine 17yo 1996/2014 (56.9%, A.D. Rattray Cask Collection, Bourbon Hogshead, C#10622, 281b) 7/10

Dram #2 (me)

Nose: Bishlouk claims this smells dirty and unusual. adc finds tyres, though not in a grand-prix sort of way, and I think it is borderline metallic. It turns more bubble gum-y, after a while, and even has rotting wood (Psycho). Sulphur, citrus (sonicvince), tree bark (adc -- cedar or sequoia), maple shavings (Psycho). PSc thinks it is less strong in alcohol than Dram #1, but that it has nutmeg.
Mouth: creamy and more in line with the nose (adc), warm (Bishlouk), warm gravel and a bit of wood. Heavy and metallic, it is punchier and denser than the nose suggested, with grapefruit juice (sonicvince).
Finish: woody and drying (STL and Bishlouk), it strikes me as having wormwood and fruit stones, today. During the second sessino, I find it rocky and monolithic.
Comment: detailed notes here. As difficult a profile as I have ever found it.

Miltonduff 15yo 1995/2011 (56.3%, Gordon & MacPhail Reserve imported by Classic Wines Imports for Park Avenue Liquor Shop, 1st Fill Bourbon Barrel, C#9461, 198b, AA/ABBB) 7/10

adc: "After four sips, I am starting to find it very good!"

adc: "PSc has an automatic mic that switches off when he stops talking."
sonicvince: "He just has to continually talk, then..."
tOMoH: "We have Psycho for that!"

PSc: "I've never seen Avatar.
sonicvince: "Visually, it's great. But the story is very corny."
kruuk2: "It's Pocahontas in space."
Psycho: "Chromatically stimulating."

Dram #3 (me)

Nose: sweeter than the previous two, it has rosewood, solvents (adc) and an industrial touch (Bishlouk). Virginia tobacco too, maybe? Wonderfully caramelised apricot compote, apricot turnovers, straight out of the oven. Pastry, specifically frangipane (PSc), a tart taken out of the oven (PSc), warm and fruity, citrus (sonicvince), hay and bison grass (adc).
Mouth: chemical sweets (red71 and STL), mellow and honey-like, until dry papers appear, followed by leather or parchment. Mellow, very jammy, it has a gentle metallic touch and a dose of spices.
Finish: long, fruity, as well as punchy, warming, with ginger-y citrus.
Comment: detailed notes here. Cracking dram.

Glenburgie 1983/2011 (56.3%, Berry Bros & Rudd Berrys' Own Selection, C#9806) 8/10

red71: "A Glenroses?"
tOMoH: "Welcome to the jungle, baby!"

sonicvince does: "Psycho explains..."

Dram #4 (me)

Nose: cereal-like (Frosties, according to Psycho) and hairy in a musky way, leathery. Warm and more phenolic (PSc), wet straw (sonicvince), pastoral (PSc), borderline farm-y (cow dung), with soft peat smoke that is not unlike a bothy (adc), wet rope and a drop of vinegar.
Mouth: sweet, then porridge-y, then rich and dark-grain-like. sonicvince finds it stings the tongue a bit, whilst adc recognises cow stables. It is lively and nutty, with the bitterness of almond skins.
Finish: super long, almost overly so (Bishlouk, STL), too long (red71 who did say: "the longer, the better," earlier), flat (Psycho). Alcoholised at first, it becomes fruitier as time passes, according to sonicvince, nutty, gently bitter, complex and ever changing.
Comment: detailed notes here. This is ever the puzzling whisky. I like it.

Pittyvaich 14yo (54.5%, James MacArthur Fine Malt Selection imported by Pevarello, b. ca 1990) 7/10

red71: "It's not kerosene, it's not burning alcohol..."
tOMoH: "I find it cereal-like."

I give the clue that the distillery starts with a 'P'. There are only two in Speyside, and one is much harder to find than the other.
tOMoH: "Parkmore had a very bad reputation. When they closed the distillery, the legend goes that they emptied the casks down the drain to reclaim the casks."
kruuk2: "...and used them to mature Ledaig!"

dom666 joins us at last.

Dram #5 (JS)

Nose: "best nose this evening," says STL. I have sweet banana slices, meringue citrus pie (STL), custard (STL). Sweets, boiled berry sweets (PSc), bubble gum (Psycho), an aulde sweet shoppe (PSc, who echoes STL's "best nose tonight" comment, three days apart).
Mouth: hard-hitting (adc), lively, even sharp. With water, lots of milk chocolate comes out, though it seems to become even sharper.
Finish: piping-hot peach slices on a leather plate, almost tasteless. Water gives it a brown Boule-Magique taste (ginger and cinnamon), vanilla (sonicvince, who finds it altogether more generic).
Comment: detailed notes here. Not one time I have had this good dram, have I enjoyed it as much as I hoped to.

Longmorn 29yo 1985/2015 (51.9%, Hunter Laing Old & Rare A Platinum Selection imported by DJK Imports for K&L Wines, Refill Hogshead, 251b, L15 194 PB OAR0243) 7/10

Many guesses, none right. We joke about blind Skye or Mull tastings. Psycho notes that, at least, Orkney has two distilleries.
tOMoH: "Three."
Psycho: "Three distilleries on Orkney? What is the third?"
tOMoH: "Stromness."
Psycho: "Never heard of that one..."
tOMoH: "It closed in 1927."
Psycho: "We're not far from a hundred years closed..."
tOMoH: "I'm impressed by your mathematics skills."

MPD walks by the camera and spots dom666:
MPD: "What's he doing there? I haven't seen him in a long while."
tOMoH: "I think she's talking about dom666. What about the whiskies?"
sonicvince: "It has vanilla in the finish."
dom666: "I don't have a taste of vanilla in the finish."
tOMoH: "How do you know? Are you that flexible?"

Fun times. Pity about the exhausting conversation about COVID-19, when dom666 joined. There are enough of those for my liking on an everyday basis.

This one is empty

22/11/2020 Springbank virtual tasting (Part 2)

 Following on from Part 1.

I have a stinking dehydration-induced headache, despite having had no alcohol for two days. Might as well give that headache a good reason to be there!

Dram #5

Springbank 10yo (57.2%, OB Local Barley, Sherry Casks): because, you know, if you are going to make a Sunday-morning headache worse, it is best to start with a high-ABV dram. This is unreleased yet. Nose: well, the sherry influence is obvious and a half. Exotic woods (teak, ebony), drinks cabinets (Sherry and Port, heavy and sweet), then something that reminds me of Styrofoam beads... In fact, it is black packing peanuts, soaked in peaty whisky (read here to find out how I know that smell so well). A few minutes in, it becomes farmier, with muddy paths and dirty ploughs, then sweet, with dried dates and dried figs. The details do not tell, but I would be surprised if there was not a single ex-Pedro Ximénez cask, in this. It seems to become sweeter and sweeter, too, with plum jam, before the wood come back in full force (ebony, loud and clear). The second nose brings a spoonful of raspberry coulis, dunked into a cup of coffee, as well as a whiff of leather and a pinch of herbs. Mouth: mellow and sweet, with more plums and figs than wood, it is soon clear that those have been soaked in rum to rehydrate. Swirling the whisky around the tongue for a bit, one detects farmland soil, rich and greasy, mahogany and coconut. Maybe a distant note of rubber? Hard to tell. In any case, it is not the bad kind of rubber, bitter and desiccating -- not at all. Finish: here, it has chocolate, calming and comforting, if only for a moment. Mocha soon replaces the chocolate, augmented with dried-fig paste and a few timid chilli flakes in pot soil. The nose is good. The rest is efficient, if rather simple. 7/10

Dram #6

Springbank 8yo (56.8%, Cask Sample, Fresh Pedro Ximénez Hogshead for 18 months): nose: sweet and fruity, it has dried dates, quince paste and dried apricots, Dr. Pepper and a gentle smoke to boot: smoked jams to begin with, it morphs into burning cherry-tree logs in the space of two whiffs. In the long run, a more farm-y side emerges, with muddy wellies and tractor-engine oil, when it escapes the farm, yet stays firmly in the countryside, with a drop of ink, then elderberry liqueur in the making and musty cellars. Mouth: dryer on the tongue, it boasts a combination of wood polish, pot soil, currant jams, softly-smoked quince paste, ink and PVC tank tops. Yes, that last one surprised me too. The jams grow in intensity, cranberry and blackcurrant, almost liquorice-y in their mild bitterness. Finish: seemingly monochord at first, with a nice, if lonely note of plum jam, it takes ten or twenty seconds before muddy farmland joins the dance, alongside gentle smoke and dirty rubber boots. It remains rather sweet altogether, with elderberry and blackcurrant, yet the same bitterness appears as on the palate; not quite liquorice, but definitely in that category. Good, in small doses. 7/10

15/11/2020 Springbank virtual tasting

The actual tasting was on the 30th October. I was double-booked, so did not make it. You will remember that the experience the day before did not really push me to choose to attend this one over the East-Coast shindig: another non-interactive Youtube live was not appealing. This back-up session is technology free.

Dram #1

Springbank 12yo (56.1%, OB Cask Strength, 45% Sherry + 25% Bourbon + 25% Burgundy + 5% Port Casks): this is not yet released, maybe not even bottled yet. It is the next 12yo Cask Strength. Nose: it is a full tannery, in there, with leather purses, leather coats and moccasins. Shortly thereafter, treacle enters, dark and sweet, sticky molasses, sticky toffee pudding. Moustache wax joins in, as does brine-y sea breeze. Moss water, in a bucket near the fireplace, colour pencils and oilskins, drying by the fireplace too. Further nosing puts the emphasis on embers and logs, also by the fire, soot in the chimney and, seal wax. Mouth: ink, red lipstick, hot candlewax, seal wax, walnut oil... Oh! it is oily alright. Oily and spicy, which points to chilli-infused oil. The seal wax makes it clear it is there to stay, and it is accompanied by lip balm and burning-hot apricot compote. Finish: delicate in the finish, it is also elegant, with hot wax, red lipstick, a hearty fireplace and a bucket of coal. If there is any apricot left here, it is charred beyond recognition. Not an immediate seducer, but this will win many over, with repeated sipping. 8/10

Dram #2

Springbank 26yo 1993/2020 (51.1%, OB Limited Edition for the 2020 Virtual Springbank Open Day, 2 x Refill Bourbon Hogsheads, 432b): nose: much, much dryer, this one has ink, pencil lead, something reminiscent of hospital corridors (overly heated, enclosed atmosphere and industrial-grade linoleum), then, drying clay, transmogrifying into ashy, dry soil. Ashy indeed -- after a wee while, that is almost all that remains! Finally, a soft note of seal wax shows up, sooty and, well, waxy. The second sip brings refined and restrained peat smoke, hinting at a holiday manor, more than a bothy. Mouth: fulfilling, it has ginger and liquorice to augment the comforting wax. In fact, this has a strong feel of cough syrup, or strong cough drops; Valda, to be precise. Elderberry, blackcurrant jams, squashed blackberry, pinot noir. This is a Bourbon cask!? The liquorice suggests a certain bitterness, and indeed, there is a bit of that, though not quite rubber. Finish: big, bold, it covers a wide range of flavours too: still waxy, still cough-syrup-like, this has elderberry, blackcurrant liqueur, liquorice allsorts and faint peat smoke, so discreet it seems disguised. The finish too has a bitter whisper, as well as a more pronounced sweetness: concentrated tamarind, I declare, with the sudden certainty of a man who knows he is right. Concentrated smoked tamarind it is. Yay. Drying cow dung emerges, towards the death -- always a winner, for this countryside boy. What a cracker! 9/10

Dram #3

Springbank 17yo (48.5%, OB, Fresh Madeira Casks): another yet-to-be-released number. Nose: herbal, full of botanicals (juniper, mace, sumac, aniseed, lovage seeds, black cardamom). Fortunately --- and I say 'fortunately,' because it is very gin-like, -- fortunately, that dissipates somewhat to make room for wine-y and smoky scents: venison roast, served with a wine sauce, smoked lingonberry compote, smoked cranberries, soaked in Burgundy. In the far back, a Bulgomme protective table underlay appears, that has protected a table in a smoker's house for many years. Mouth: creamy and wine-y, in a fruity way, with decaying grapes, berry wine, cassis liqueur poured onto moist chocolate sponge cake, spiked dark-berry jam and cherry custard. The texture is velvety and coating like a good wine, yet it does not overstay its welcome. It seems to become better and better, the more one sips it -- are old Springers not always that way? Finish: wow! This is so close to cassis liqueur I could be fooled. Blackcurrant jam, with a hint of wood and a clear (if soft) smoky touch. It is a humble, but hearty breakfast, with browned toasts and that delicious jam. Dram #2 was a tough act to follow, but this does so adequately, becoming especially pleasant from the second sip on. 8/10

Dram #4

Springbank 21yo b.2020 (46%, OB, 30% Bourbon + 30% Rum + 25% Oloroso Sherry + 15% Port Casks, 3300b, 20/68): nose: this is as complex as the mix of casks. Nail varnish, fortified wine, slightly-burnt chocolate cake, chalk (WTF!?), mochaccino... Breathing in the glass makes it veer towards coffee, suggesting the Oloroso might have the last laugh. Prunes, soaked in a bowl of coffee, red wine and earthy water, then talcum powder and flour-dusted blackcurrant cough drops, sprinkled with liquorice and ink. Mouth: definitely blackcurrant cough drops, Valda style again, liquorice-y, perhaps rubbery, and it even has a pinch of spices (mace, fenugreek). The texture is milky, the reduction not causing a major incident, and it is tickles the gums with that faint spiciness, rather than coating the mouth, akin to a cordial, more than cough syrup. Finish: long and calmly assertive, it sums up the notes from the nose and palate, with earth, coffee grounds, blackcurrants and elderberry cough drops, tame wood spices and the sweetness of a Dorset tea-time pastry. Other than a gentle warming side, there is little of the distillery character, here; it is not really farm-y, not really coastal. It is really nice, though. And pretty sweet -- certainly too much for some. 8/10

The line-up has two more samples, but that will be enough for today.

14/11/2020 A couple of drams

 I felt a little worse for wear, this morning, after last night's Ardmore tasting. Better this afternoon, even if I fear this session will not be very ambitious.

The Tomatin 15yo (40%, Gordon & MacPhail for Il Sestante, b.1980s): notice how this was imported by Il Sestante s.n.c., the bar, and not Sestante s.r.l., the importer. We know from Mainardi himself that all his bottlings were done by Gordon & MacPhail, although it is not written on the label. Nose: an elegant mix of encaustic, juicy prunes and minute quantities of soot. The prunes mutate into soaked sultanas, and are joined by a mineral quality -- unpolished granite. A faint note of petrol, distant, and a mere backing singer to the main artist that is fruit. Elderberry, redcurrant, wild strawberry and a touch of wax. It is a shy nose, however; evanescent. Mouth: waxy fruit seems more pronounced on the tongue, with apricots, plums, mirabelle plums and kumquats, dark grapes about to burst, blackcurrants. Pencil shavings join the fruits to add a softly bitter note, perhaps gently metallic, even, which would be the pencil sharpener's blade, but also brimstone. At 40%, this is a soft introduction, rather than fireworks on the tongue, yet it does not lack character. A salad dressing with walnut oil and raspberry vinegar. Finish: plummy to the max, this has all sorts of waxy purple fruits, very juicy. There is a soft woodiness to it, until that raspberry vinegar kicks in to colour the tongue pink, whilst the walnut oil coats the mouth walls. The pinch of soot from the nose has all but gone, yet it lives on through the coal-dusty dryness left in the mouth, minutes after swallowing this, taking the place of the creamy impression that preceded it. Superb! 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)

Let us have a second.

Isle of Jura 21yo 1998/2020 (54.2%, Adelphi Limited, Refill Sherry Cask, C#2146, 265b): leftover from the tasting in May. Nose: cranberry compote and bovril, discreet meat, marinating in soaked prunes. It then becomes a little more wine-y, with Madeira and very old brandy, in which the fruit has disappeared in favour of wood -- rosewood, actually. Armagnac and dirty socks are next, which, I will gladly admit, make a strange couple, before it turns sweeter, with warmed maple syrup and fresh doughnuts... aaaaaaand it is back to poached prunes, wines and drinks cabinets. Lychee husk, caffè corretto and a baking tray, after a day of baking. Mouth: full, thick, sweet to the point it is cloying, treacle-like, coated in maple syrup -- you get the picture, I am sure. Below the tongue, the sweetness allows some fruit to permeate (lychee again), alongside rosewood and toasted peaches. There is something remotely animal to this palate, with musk and wet hair in a Clynelish-14yo way, rather than the meat one would find in a Mortlach. Perhaps a glass of Burgundy wine in a room that has a smokeless fireplace? Finish: sweet here too, but balanced -- sweet and toasted, with maple syrup and lychee husk rubbing feathers with burnt cake and gentle liquorice. It is not quite roasted coffee beans, but not too far off either. The second sip is creamy as a mocha custard with chocolate shavings on top. Biscuit crumbs left on the baking tray, and baked a few too many times. Then, red wine appears, elegant and noble, rich, with a few tannins, but it is more of a dessert wine, if not quite a Port or a Montbazillac. Sweetish and full-bodied, still with those toasted touches. Nice. I like it much more than the first time. 8/10

13/11/2020 East Coast Whisky: Ardmore vertical

Another rather ambitious tasting around one distillery. You will remember I said last time that was not my thing, but hey! I reserve the right to contradict myself whenever I choose to do so.

The host has a few technical issues, in the beginning, which suits me well, as I am late to the party.

66.92 9yo 2007/2016 Simply delicious (57.6%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 24b): that is a seriously limited bottling, there! Nose: grilled sausages, smoked tofu, white-miso paste, smoked cheddar, roasted seaweed. The second nosing has lemon curd, then strawberry custard. It turns very muddy in the back, though it is not unpleasant. Mouth: surprisingly fruity, with seared strawberries and pineapple pulp served next to grilled hot-dogs. Finish: it feels smokier in the finish, with scorched earth and crusty peat. This is a warming, comforting dram that becomes dry and petrolic, in a tarry fashion. Lovely. 8/10

66.91 13yo d.2002 Mechanic's workshop by the sea (57.4%, SMWS Society Single Cask, 2nd Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 198b): nose: this one is milkier, creamier. It has earth-covered apricot and muddy yoghurt, morphing into dry old staves, perhaps with a few mint leaves too. The second nose is all burning barns. A good thing, if you are a countryside arsonist, I would imagine. Mouth: spicy, very spicy, it has burning peat, ablaze oil spills, with only traces of (burning) fruit (strawberry) and warm cigar leaves. Finish: long, fiery, this is reminiscent of scorched earth and burnt scrubland, hot banana slices, char-grilled plantains and barbecued pineapple. 8/10

Ardmore 17yo 2002/2019 (58.2%, Adelphi Selection, Bourbon Hogshead, C#317, 275b): nose: aggressively meaty, this has rancid butter, suet and rotting flowers from the start. Perhaps elderberry gumdrops, after a while. As one tilts the glass, some smoked flowers appear as well. Mouth: mellow, here, it has violets and primroses, alongside a growing heat. Is it candied ginger shavings? Finish: big, the finish sees mudflats, crushed violets, more of that elderberry gums, cuberdons and heat. The back throat is left with drying, crusty earth cakes. Pretty good, on the whole, but that nose is not my thing. 7/10

Ardmore 19yo d.1990 (46%, Signatory Vintage for Direct Wines First Cask, Bourbon Barrel, C#30109): the host did not mention the cask number, and there are a couple of handful of sister casks. Fortunately, I am good at digging! Nose: much more ethereal, with fruity esters, strawberry juice and lemonade. Then, suddenly, piña colada is propelled on to the stage, with coconut oil, as clear and invasive as what comes out when grating a coconut. Perhaps crushed Aspirin too. Mouth: very fruity, choc-full of tangerine juice, soft and sweet, as well as gently bitter. This is great! A few grains of crushed Aspirin in fruit juice, Schweppes orange. Finish: huge, and I am as surprised as anyone that a 46% dram should seem so big, after the first three unruly youngsters. This is assertive, bold, acidic as grapefruit, juicy and mildly bitter. All over the shop, it may read, but it is well structured and balanced. 8/10

Ardmore 21yo 1998/2020 (53.1%, Elixir Distillers The Single Malts of Scotland, Bourbon Hogshead, C#750788, 287b): nose: this one is fruity too, but dryer, much dryer, with drought-time farmland and a soft November sea breeze that cracks the knuckles. Sauvignon-blanc wine, the dry residue in a glass of orange juice, the following morning, yellowed-out Rizzla, oily with tobacco extract. Mouth: acid-fruity, it has the very faint smoke of burning paper and scented ink. Finish: big, explosive, full of fruity acidity, with a mix of grapefruit peel and orange pith, bordering on lemon pith. Nice. 8/10

Ardmore 22yo 1997/2018 (48.7%, The Nectar of the Daily Drams): nose: überwaxy, beefed up with plasticine, modelling clay, candlewax -- is this a mislabelled Clynelish? In the long run, it turns lighter and sweeter (almost overly sweet, in fact), cotton-candy-like. Mouth: mild, silky and waxy again, it has all the softness of plasticine, with peach pulp, apricot jams and a pinch of spices (whole coriander grains). Finish: very waxy again, the finish even has nail polish and scented candlewax, alongside peach skins, kumquat, ink (JS) and burning-hot pencil. I love this one. 8/10

Ardmore 21yo 1997/2019 (49.4%, Whisky-Doris The Art Nouveau Collection, Bourbon Hogshead, C#901456, 180b): nose: fresh, fruity and softly bitter, this one has pith, plastered all over it. Mouth: still fresh and fruity, it is also velvety and peachy, yet feels a bit thin, at this stage. Over time, it becomes fuller again, juicy and fruity. JS finds St Joseph's Aspirin for children, apparently a big hit with 1980s underaged crackheads across the Atlantic. Finish: acidic in the finish, even if it is the tame acidity of tangerine that lingers and lingers, rather than piercing lemon juice. 8/10

66.25 22yo 1985/2007 Pink ladies and dark chocolate (52.3%, SMWS Society Cask, Refill Hogshead, 295b): ha! An old-livery SMWS offering. It is becoming a scarcer opportunity, these days. Nose: another meaty one, with lard, suet, curd and man sweat, though, thankfully, that soon makes way for cinnamon-and-ginger bubble gum (the brown Boules Magiques) and a more yoghurt-y side, with mint and fresh lemongrass. JS finds mushroom funk, in the nose as well. Mouth: lively, sparkly, the palate is a wave of mint and wood spices, lemongrass and unripe-coconut yoghurt. Finish: mint lozenges, cough drops, refreshing and warming at the same time, if that is possible. Citrus comes out more and more, with grapefruit and bergamot, augmented by tatters of cucumber peel. This is more divisive, if interesting. 7/10

Ardmore 1977/2003 (45%, Samaroli 35th Anniversary, C#7631, 738b): nose: very tame, but then, at 45%, it is hardly a surprise, considering the strength of some of the previous, what, eight drams? I reckon it is a sequence mistake to have this last. It becomes buttery and fruity, with squashed peach, augmented with a few drops of lemon juice. Time reveals an ample nose, wide, with an unsuspected grassiness. Kaffir lime leaves, freshly-cut lemongrass -- almost citronella. Mouth: soft, sweet, confectionery sugar on peach slices. There is a minute acidity to this, but it feels tame, at this stage, perhaps unfortunately. Finish: long and comforting, it still seems to lack kick or oomph. Again, I blame its position in the sequence. This one needs more time and a fresh palate. A pity, because it is promising good things. Another time. 9/10

Right. The leisurely pace was a good thing, tonight: since I was late, it allowed me to catch up effortlessly, often being ahead of the game too, whilst not finishing hours before everyone else.

As was the case for the Clynelish tasting a couple of weeks ago, I found this to lack structure and educational value. For illustration, someone asked if Ardmore was double- or triple-distilled and the host looked it up on t'Interwebz. I do not expect an exhaustive list of names of the warehouse men over the years, but knowing whether double- or triple-distilled seems like basic information to be able to pass on, during a tasting dedicated to a single distillery.

It was the social interactions (or lack thereof) that dampened my enthusiasm, however. On one hand was a guy who had lots to say, but nothing about the drams (which he was not even trying, for some reason), who would monopolise the conversation to talk about his latest bargain-bin finds; on the other hand were several lurkers who were connected, but said nothing for the three hours the session lasted, and did not switch on their camera once. It felt odd, borderline rude.

The whiskies were good, even if I stand by my opinion that eight (or nine) drams from the one distillery are not the most exciting things to taste in a row.

05/11/2020 Banffire Night 2020

Where have the days gone, when one could try Banff every evening? Oh! that's right, it was never so.

Tonight, we are revisiting an old friend. A friend we have not tried for two-and-a-half years to the day.

A friend we first met in 2011, before this blog existed and before anyone realised that Whisky Show was spelled with no definite article. Fred Laing had what seemed like the best stall at the festival, that year, with, amongst other goodies, a 19yo Littlemill, and this. Neither called for tokens; they were just there for all to try. I fell in love with both, and was particularly impressed by this Banff, entranced by its smell of Chaumes rind. That note has not been very pronounced since, making me wonder if, perhaps, I had forgotten to brush my teeth, that day. Let us see.

Banff 35yo 1975/2011 (42.4%, Douglas Laing An Old & Rare Platinum Selection, 158b, b#149): nose: phwoar! The depth of this is remarkable. Wood varnish, lacquered wood, precious wood -- it is akin to setting foot in an antique shop: elegant, noble, never planky. It has a layer of sherried notes too, which is surprising; although the cask is not specified, it is relatively safe to assume a Bourbon barrel: Douglas Laing tend to indicate a sherry cask. Polished dashboards, drinks cabinets, perhaps a touch of rancio, then, at last and very faint, washed-rind cheese. Gentle fruit emerges from the cheese board, with elderberry and redcurrant alongside fresh fig, mutating into dunnage warehouse, with its dust-dry clay floor, syrup-and-lichen-covered staves and boozy vapours in the musty air. If searching for it, one might find a mustard-y note too; honey mustard, spread on a cheese-and-pineapple toastie. Those currants, however... Very seductive! Mouth: sweeter than I remembered it, the elderberry and currant lead the way on the palate, dampened with a drop of teak oil, though the woody notes of the nose are nigh-on absent. Elderberry dominates, rich, sweet and a tad acidic, followed by a bitterer lichen-y touch that is well pleasant indeed. A spoonful of manuka honey, caramelising in a sauce pan, a pinch of discreet spices (mustard powder, wasabi, asa foetida) and fig paste complete the picture. The texture is silky, as may be expected from something at this naturally-lowish strength. Finish: wonderfully laced with a hefty dose of elderberry cordial, the finish lasts forever, bringing wave after wave of dark fruits, both fresh and dry: elderberries, of course, but also currants, figs, prunes accompanied by caramelised plantain slices and caramelised pineapple slices. There is more bitterness here than in the mouth, with anecdotal cucumber peel and the buff rind of Ossau-Iraty, served with fig jam for balance. Towards the death, Chaumes rind appears, fleeting, yet oh! so present. Repeated sipping brings a slight numbness to the gums and a dry grassiness to the gob, perhaps hay bales or straw. Incidentally, straw was used in the Chaumes ads from the 1990s. What a wonderful drop. It is rather different from my original memories, but displays the same level of quality every time. I feel stingy for scoring it so low. 9/10

31/10/2020 November outturn at the SMWS

JS and I join Dr. CD, PS and GK for a last hurrah for a while. Flat fee, five drams and a cheeseboard, as per usual.

I cannot say I find the list exciting, this month, but I suppose there is an oldish Caperdonich. In the worst case, today is an opportunity to try it... except it is not: only half the bottlings were delivered, and then almost only the cheapest ones. That makes the flat fee almost more expensive than buying by the dram. It is not the first time it happens and it annoys me. "We have drams priced at £5, £10, £15 and £20. For a flat-fee of £30, you may select five £5 drams and a cheeseboard" is what it feels like.

Anyway.

9.184 16yo d.2003 A study in pink (53.8%, SMWS Society Cask, 1st Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 201b): nose: pine sap in the background, masked by strong scents of lemon-y pine, crushed pine cones, cedar wood, almost splintery. There is something else I cannot quite identify -- JS reckons talcum powder and she might be right. Talcum powder on clean linen, perhaps dried Kaffir lime leaves. Time makes it bubble gum-y. Mouth: dry and metallic, it is also strong; peppery to the point it feels poorly integrated. There is a dose of fruit, in the back of the throat, outweighed by a clearly metallic bitterness. Finish: a little sweeter, here, it has confectionery sugar and caramel in the making, yet there are remnants of the bitterness too (sage, marjoram, verbena). Not a disaster, but also far from stellar. 7/10

113.34 30yo d.1989 Magically Mediterranean (50.4%, SMWS Society Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 177b): the one expensive dram delivered on time, and it counts as two. Another blow. Nose: pear and apple skins, macerating in fermenting juice, then whiffs of a bakery and a spice merchant (flour, ground cardamom, ground coriander). At last, a shy maritime character appears, which is very surprising, then dry hay. Thirty minutes in, the whole turns into nail varnish and cosmetic powders, with a glass of peach juice near the makeup mirror. Mouth: soft and mellow, it has cracked black pepper amongst confectionery sugar, and a dash of white-grape-and-peach juice. Finish: long, relaxing and warming, with dry hay, rock salt, rosemary, mezcal or tequila!? It leaves the mouth a little dry, as if covered in smoke is what it does. It feels rather strong in the finish, and has the bitterness of shaved cork. 8/10

I share my Pittyvaich 14yo (54.5%, James MacArthur Fine Malt Selection imported by Pevarello, b. ca 1990) with my tablemates, who seem to enjoy it. See here for notes.

44.132 12yo d.2007 Cracking black pepper nuts (61.4%, SMWS Society Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 280b): nose: an old-school dram, wearing a woollen cardigan, slippers and a pipe. Soon, a drop of lemon shows up, then stale tobacco and, suddenly, unscented washing-up detergent, then pickle vinegar and hand wash (with more of a scent, this time). Weird. Mouth: prickly, cucumber-y, it becomes rather spicy, showcasing ginger, galangal and lemongrass -- lots of the latter. It is also jellied as fook. Finish: a lot softer than expected, it has corked water, but also a certain sweetness of preserved apricots and cucumber jelly. 7/10

The Lakes N°3 b.2020 (54%, OB The Whiskymaker's Reserve, PX, Oloroso, Cream Sherry and Red Wine casks, 9700b): nose: wood varnish mixed with butyric. It soon becomes woody, woody, woody. An orange-y note grows, with blood-orange skins, crystallised orange and pink-grapefruit skins. It redeems itself after a difficult start, in other words. Mouth: a soft blend of blood-orange peels, wood varnish and baby sick, in keeping with the nose, but may not please everyone. Finish: big, boisterous, slightly bitter, it has blood-orange pith ad pink-grapefruit peel. Not bad, perhaps a bit dull. 6/10 (Thanks for the dram, PS)

Bimber Re-Charred Oak Casks (51.9%, OB, Re-Charred American Oak Casks, B#01/2019, 5000b): nose: very custard-y, this one exudes melted βανίλια and crystallised, minty sweetness. Soon, warm, soaped-up laundry rocks up too. Mouth: mellow without losing punch, it simply is not spicy at all. Custard and warm βανίλια all the way. Finish: more vanilla custard, with a pinch of herbs on top (thyme and fresh mint), as well as caramel flan. It feels like any old Bourbon-matured whisky, inoffensive, decent, but also rather generic. I do not understand the hype. 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, PS)

10.201 6yo d.2013 Panel-punch of peat-smoke (60.2%, SMWS Society Cask, 2nd Fill ex-Moscatel Hogshead Finish, 304b): nose: very peaty. Peat bricks, smoked ham, barbecued bacon, then ash and carbonyl. It also has flame-dried algae and burnt wet wood -- or wet burnt wood? Mouth: toasted algae, barbecued bacon again, ashy and oily smoked ham (a contradictory combination, I know) and smoky chocolate. Finish: earthy, muddy, the finish has baked, boggy peat bricks, oaky bacon and greasy nori, robusto-cigar ash and more smoky chocolate arrive on the late tip. 7/10

Pleasant time with friends, though if the above is not clear, I have fallen out of love with the Society, somewhat. The prices have skyrocketed (I do not expect the same prices as ten years ago, yet also cannot welcome prices that are consistently £100 higher than Cadenhead's or others' for similar offerings), the selection has become very young (my first glance at the outturn showed a 28yo Caperdonich and five more whiskies sharing fifty-two years between them, one being sixteen), more and more bottles are impossible to purchase (allocated via a ballot or sold out in minutes), more and more cannot be tasted (because they are not available at the launch), and even the cheese boards are shrinking madly (three pieces of cheese and four crackers in total) Add to that that every single time in the past couple of years we have spent money at the bar (as opposed to the pre-paid flights of the new outturn), there have been mistakes (poured the wrong dram, charged too much per dram, charged for too many drams, and even charged the tab of someone else altogether) and the COVID-19-related lockdown that kept the venue closed for months, and one has lots of arguments not to renew one's membership.

Just as I think that, the whole venue is offered cake (walnut and coffee or chocolate -- I go for chocolate). To say all is forgiven would be daft, but it certainly makes for a better overall experience.