Glenury Royal 40yo 1970/2011 (59.4.%, OB, American Oak Refill Casks, 1500b, b#0074):nose: the power this nose has, after forty years' aging, is flabbergasting. It has some wood and wood oil, yet also something perfume-y, as well as a note that I cannot immediately decipher, that reminds me of my many 1980s vacations in Italy. Could it be a mix of moka pot on the stove, grappa, and caramel-and-chocolate custard? Quite likely, yes. Beside that, this has the weathered wooden benches of a bothy that has seen so many campfires it smells mildly acrid, even in the middle of the day, the years of wood smoke incrusted in the walls' every particle. It does not stop there, however: the afore-mentioned perfume-y side takes the shape of wild flowers in the Dolomites pastures (and I swear there are a few jasmine buds too), then conference pear peels and decaying apples. It keeps a clear wood influence, yet it is not an annihilating force. All the same, we have hay, ground cumin, ginger powder, cassia bark, and discreet ground cloves -- and then the flowery-fruity scents resurface, alongside lichen on staves. The second nose welcomes fruit stones and hazelnut, not quite ripe, as well as walnut shells -- or is it pistachio shells and a glass of Fino? Over the space of twenty minutes, it effortlessly goes from mountain-side rustic to gentlemen's-club sophistication, not merely at ease in both environments, but setting the tone, whilst never losing touch with its roots. Mouth: the attack is fruity, with a lick of unobtrusive rubber. Apple juice, peach-and-orange juice are next. Wood spices soon join the dance: cassia, ginger, coriander, all ground into a fine powder. The intensity is pretty impressive: here is a concentrated and powerful whisky alright! The second sip appear fruitier, in which orange takes the lead, adds blush orange and the peels that go with it, both fresh and dried, meaning a tad more bitter. It is now rather chewy too, and coats the entire mouth in a dusty-fruity layer, a mix of sawdust and ground dried blush-orange peels, almost ashy, in a fruit-tree-ash way. Finish: warm, warming, and getting warmer. Baked apples, dusted with ginger powder, powdered cassia bark, and white pepper. It is a long, powerful finish, never ending, and, actually, rather numbing. The second gulp feels a lot more orange-y -- an orange that would have been caressed by a delicate smoke for a long while. It also displays lichen on staves, warmed by direct sun rays and embers from burning fruit tree. In fact, it feels as though whole fruits have been thrown onto that fire, with caramelised apples and burnt pears dripping sweet juices to complement the blush-orange touch. Phwoar! Incredible. I cannot even be bothered adding water to this. I am sure it would take it well, but it is so extraordinary neat, today. Only a slight bitterness in the first sip will prevent top score. To think I had this down as a "good, but..." dram, the first time! Our second encounter was more in line with today's. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)
Sixty-one years ago this week, on 18th October 1961, West Side Story was released in cinemas, following the success of its Broadway predecessor of the same name. JS, PS, SW and Cavalier66 join me to celebrate.
We all brought too many things, and discard a few of them to avoid an alcohol-induced coma. One such reject is a Glenallachie 1973 Malts of Scotland that Cavalier66 has brought. The connection was that, out of the two -llachie distilleries, Glenallachie is the westernmost (with Craigellachie being slightly to the east of it). Teh lollez.
Cavalier66 presents East Side Story.
Yamazaki 18yo (43%, OB, b. ca 2015): nose: "can you smell the mizunara?" (Cavalier66). Blush oranges, mulled wine, to some extent. Yes, cinnamon, cloves, sumac, sandalwood. More and more blush orange, dried blush-orange slices and peels. Finally, a handful of jasmine buds. Mouth: the bitterness of unripe plants (JS), hay harvest (SW), candied marmalade, honey-glazed cinnamon sticks, crushed cloves. This really is mulled wine and a half. Finish: here, it has more wood bitterness, with white pepper, pine planks, still a lot of blush-orange skins, dried to bits and ground into a powder. 7/10
The Old Man of Huy presents Mull, an island off the west coast of Scotland.
Ledaig 1974/2000 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Rare Old, JJ/CB): nose: bursting grapefruit, cosmetic powder, peach-scented moisturiser cream. This is extremely fruity, today. Mouth: soft, custard-y grapefruit turnovers, juicy pineapple and a dollop of earth. Cavalier66 finds plasticine too. Finish: long, rancio-y, fruity, with pineapple in all stages of ripeness, from greenness to decay. Glorious Ledaig. Look here for full notes. 9/10
PS [pointing at Cavalier66]: "I'm shy and retired in the way his wardrobe is."
SW shows that, if one travels westward enough, one ends up at Macallan.
Macallan (unknown ABV, cask sample): nose: a burst of fruit, initially (peach and apricot, says PS), that turns into something very different, with minty toothpaste, sandalwood sawdust, unlit incense. A minute in, there is even a note of chargrilled meat. What? It comes back to sweeter territories, with Turkish delights, and warm face towels, talcum-powder-coated jackfruit and peaches. Further nosing has fleshy peach, flirting with mango. Mouth: soft, mellow and peachy, with talcum powder and confectionary sugar, in a Turkish-delight way. Keep it in the mouth for thirty seconds, and it flips to deliver tropical fruits -- persimmon and dragon fruit. The next sip has mango skins and fruit stones (whole, and shavings). Finish: sandalwood and incense precede a slap of tropical fruits. Persimmon, jackfruit. Turkish delights follow, covered with confectionary sugar sugar. It has a gentle fruit-stone bitterness too. Phwoar! 9/10
JS and tOMoH present West Clydeside Story. The distillery is in the western half of Scotland, in the west end of Glasgow... Cavalier66: "...and the stillhouse is on the west side of the distillery." tOMoH: "It is, actually!"
Clydeside 3yo Stobcross (46%, OB, b.2021, CBSCS 09845) (JS): nose; pears and apples (Cavalier66), crumble (PS), but crumble that has not caramelised, yet (Cavalier66), Apfel Strudel (SW), strawberries, and a twist of the black-pepper mill. Mouth: "very good, but... pepper!" (PS, whose tolerance for pepper is very low). I find it creamy and custard-y. Finish: peppery custard. Short notes for a great whisky. Full notes here. Today, it is 7/10
vs.
Clydeside 34mo (unknown ABV, cask sample, re-racked ex-Sherry Cask + ex-Bourbon Casks) (tOMoH): do not ask how I obtained this. Nose: more ester-y, it has after-shave lotion, a whiff of raw grain, and flowery hand cream. Mouth: a tad youthful, perhaps, with the usual apples and plums associated with young age. Finish: I feel the pepper more than in the Stobcross, but PS says the higher ABV balances it out. I neck it to catch up. More about this on another day. 7/10
JS [sensing a breaking stopper]: "tOMoH, where is that thing that JK gave us?" Cavalier66: "A headache?"
JS presents whiskies from Saint Louis aka the Gateway to the West.
StilL 630 24mo 2015/2017 X-8 Chocolate RP (50%, OB Experimental, C#15-38, b#47): nose: herbaceous and sweet, straight from an ancient herbs garden, but also liqueur-like, with an exuberant sweetness that touches Irn Bru. We have herbs-coated pineapple too. The next nose is full-on candied angelica, lichen, dry moss, and humus (Cavalier66). Mouth: super herbal, here are thyme, lemon thyme, eucalyptus shavings, and citrus aplenty -- citrus foliage, to be accurate. Next is shy moss, but again, a tad citrus-y. Finish: long, round, embracing, choc-full of citrus and chocolate. SW has katsu curry. It is a little overwhelming to command a higher score, yet I love it in small doses. 7/10
vs.
StilL 630 4yo Missouri Straight Bourbon b.2019 (45%, OB Bill 266, B#10, b#177): nose: this is lighter and airier, ethereal, with tamer citrus and lichen on stone. At some point come dry earth, dry clay, and bone-dry citrus peels. Mouth: watered-down orange juice, tangerine juice. Finish: astonishingly, this seems to have more chocolate than the chocolate one, this time with milk chocolate. I empty the glass without taking more detailed notes. Will have to come back to it, at some point. Cavalier66 is not convinced. 7/10
Cavalier66: "This is the dirty one. The other one is the 4yo Bourbon." PS: "We know which one you like..." Cavalier66: "The dirty one." tOMoH: "I like the young one, of course. 4yo is borderline, already."
A storm arrives. It is as if night had come early. Soon, it is lightning, thunder, and buckets of rain.
tOMoH presents Glenugie, the most easterly distillery in Scotland, compared to which all is a West Side Story.
Glenugie 26yo 1982/2008 (50%, Douglas Laing Old Malt Cask 50º, ex-Bourbon Barrel, C#4703, 310b): nose: "old school, but not austere" (Cavalier66), it has a burning-hot-griddle note. Further nosing sees tanned leather, desert dirt, and hot metallic boilers. Mouth: quite a bit of wax, juicy apricots and tangerine segments, kumquats. It is strong, acidic, but balanced. Perhaps a tad of lichen. Beside the clearly acidic note is a certain bitterness (leaves of some kind), yet it remains acceptable. Finish: phwoar! Flint, metal, dry lichen and lots of citrus juice, melon skins. There is even a waxy cheese's paraffin rind. Love it, and will come back to it when I can take more time. 9/10
Cavalier66 presents a Penderyn, because it is westerly, west of the West Country. Also, West Side Story reminds Cavalier66 of a certain person who shares the same (almost) last name, and spends his time at the SMWS, who bottled this. Finally, West Side Story, he tells us, is the story of a rivalry. The longest rivalry is that between France and England. This, with 'frogs' in the title, represents France (whatever the Welsh may think of that).
128.15 10yo d.2010 As mad as a box of frogs (58.2%, SMWS Society Cask, Charred Refill Barrel, 182b): nose: hairballs, clogged sink and hiking boots. Next are chocolate milk and crushed apricot, as well as rosewood and crushed raspberries. The second nose has mint lozenges and nail-varnish remover (JS). Water makes it more minty and increases the sweetness. Herbal custard. Mouth: one can picture a genie climbing out of hiking boots, and slapping one in the face. Very fruity, with buttery mangoes, ginger and chilli-powder-coated pineapple chunks. Water removes none of the edge; if anything, it increases the intensity. It does, however, remove the candied citrus (SW). Finish: a bit too gingery to score higher, this has lots of wood and almost as much fruit; cinnamon splinters, bay leaves, squashed apricots, peppermint. Water increases the fruit, apricot, mint-y peach flesh, mint lozenges, pine-jelly drops. 8/10
PS: "Nothing to do with the theme, but JS likes Littlemill, so..." tOMoH; "Well, it's west of Glasgow, innit."
97.9 17yo 1990/2007 Clean spirit in a quality cask (56%, SMWS Society Cask): nose: it is rather fierce, with that Littlemill-y Aspirin touch (Cavalier66), lemon and chilli (red, not green, says Cavalier66). It also has metal, and PS specifies it is zinc-coated bicycle clips. Metallic as fook indeed, though it also retains a mint-y, custard-y side, with a lick of bright shoe polish, cow pastures and hides. Mouth: another intense number, packed with pineapple shavings, and a hint of soot, which is most surprising. Further sips are pretty metallic, in a brass-door-handle way, though it is tolerable. Then, we have mint lozenges again. Finish: long, fresh, metallic. This is warming, yet refreshing at the same time. A blend of custard, citrus, mint and metal. My notes are dreary, at this point, but this is good. Very good. 8/10
SW: "I saw this Hare Krishna guy in Soho Square, meditating topless. There were a couple playing ping-pong, and another bloke shooting up just next to them." PS: "Which one did you join, then?"
PS: "We had a mice problem in our office. During lockdown, they survived for a while, because of the food people left, such as protein powder. But then, they died, because there was nothing left to eat." JS: "Were they all muscular, when they died?"
PS digs deep into the West Side Story (musical) and brings us I Feel Pretty-vaich.
90.10 14yo 1990/2004 A game of two halves (57.8%, SMWS Society Cask): nose: sourdough, warm and rising, hot grapefruit peels, sour berries (SW), cut straw, porridge, cardboard. It does not read sexy, probably, but it works for me. Earthy pineapple, and, generally, dirty and farm-y fruit, whatever that means, dusted with confectionary sugar. Mouth: gingerbread and lemon-sponge cake. This has lots of fluffy, crusty bread and fruits, now (an hour in, or so -- I take my time), with grapefruit rinds, pomelo zest, crushed and rehydrated combava leaves and some kind of lime ice cream. That is to say it turns more acidic with time. Finish: now, it is a weird mix of porridge and grapefruit PiM's (the superior kind of small cakes). It certainly has that moist-cake-base consistency, and reminds me of a lemon drizzle. I love it. 8/10
SW: "I was ??kg before, lockdown; I am ?*kg now." Cavalier66: "That is a 15kg difference. That is sixty packets of butter." tOMoH: "Imagine how many cakes you could bake with that!"
SW presents another island off the west coast of Scotland.
Undisclosed Islay ~3yo b.2020 (~57%, cask sample, Cognac + Armagnac Casks): an unlikely thing from the south coast. It is unclear what it is, but definitely not Laphroaig, nor Lagavulin. Mmmmmkay. Nose: cardboard and paint (SW) over a hammy note, says Cavalier66 (as in: ham), ink, farmyard, scorched earth, crusted mud. The provenance seems to become clearer, with tarry ropes, algae and wax paper (PS). Xylene (for stencil fans) and cured ham. It grows more and more farm-y with time, and more moist like a peat bog. Mouth: chocolate custard, mocha custard, and, if one leaves it long enough on the tongue, roasted coffee beans, and Mokatine. It is also chewy as a fistful of clay. Finish: long, drying in an evaporated-watercolour way, it has ink slowly drying on parchment. It is increasingly farm-y, the more one drinks; earth, farm paths. Further sips seem hotter, with scorched earth and fierce peppermint, drowned in baskets of mud. Lastly, stagnant water comes up. 8/10
Kilkerran 8yo b.2022 (57.9%, OB Cask Strength, Port Casks, B#7, 22/22): nose: phwoar! this is wide and bold. Cured cold cuts and wine sauces, fortified wine by the sea, a Pimm's punch bowl by the barbecue. The influence of the cask's previous content is really obvious on the nose, with syrupy sweet wine and sea breeze engaged in a calm-but-loud dialogue -- loud enough that one can follow it from two doors down. Suddenly, they fuse to become brioche bread, slightly burnt, the crust having turned dark brown. There is a whiff of cosmetic powder, at this point, which brings a tart presence (brioche, tart -- see what I did?) Then, it is back to Pimm's, arguably also a favourite of tarts. The second nose is more farm-y, showcasing farmland paths and agricultural machines drying in the sun, earth and heaps of lime fertiliser. Mouth: green, lively, it has the impetuosity of youth, and it is also smokier than expected. Barbecue overtakes Pimm's (though there is still some of that too), with caramelised pork ribs, mechoui, charred chicken wings and barbecue or teriyaki sauce. To say it is ashy would be an overstatement, but it certainly is chargrilled to a high level. The second sip is almost medicinal, with ether, and Iso Betadine mixed with some sauce (Reggae Reggae?), a sauce that manages to muster (mustard?) a certain sweetness. Beside that growing sweetness, further sips deliver lime fertiliser in jute sacks. Finish: it has a bit of a kick, yet, considering how lively it was on the palate, it is almost well-behaved, here. It is an earthy finish, with terracotta and scorched earth, and it has a musky, rancio-y touch too, pointing at a fox, roasting its buns by the fireplace. One could imagine that was imparted by the Port, to some extent, yet it is strikingly different from what said Port brought to the nose: it is noticeably drier, now. Repeated quaffing tames that dryness with smoked cough lozenges, clearly not the sweetest bonbon in the candy box, but a little sweeter than what preceded, nonetheless. And, yes, that does bring a mentholated facet to this finish -- unless it is a note of eucalyptus. In either case, it wakes one up! 7/10 (Thanks for the sample, WK)
We are back again for a tasting revolving around every Christian's favourite power couple. JS, CB and Cavalier66 join me for a day of far-fetched links and general fun.
JS presents: Glenc-Adam. To boot, she tells us it is a fruity number, pointing at the famous apple.
Glencadam 14yo 1964/1979 (45.7%, Cadenhead): nose: it is a wonderful mix of marmalade and golden tin caps (of marmalade jars, it goes without saying), though it also has ground cardamom and ground sumac. Cavalier66 detects lime or lemon marmalade, while CB finds compote or preserve. A pinch of ground pepper gives a little spice to this occasionally flinty, mineral character (CB). Mouth: more vegetal (Cavalier66), prickly (Cavalier66), something that is balanced by sweet pumpkin (CB) and pumpkin seeds. CB reckons there is an almost-sulphury quality to this, even if it is not meant in a negative way. Finish: a lovely suppleness, with vaguely-metallic marmalade, as if a spoon had been left in the jar for a few days. Cavalier66 finds something smoky or burnt. He is clearly choking on his fag. Except he does not smoke. It is excellent, of course, even in this difficult first position. Full notes here. 8/10
Cavalier66 presents the children of Adam & Eve: this is a Cain-denhead with a gold l-Abel. Lolle.
Glentauchers-Glenlivet 39yo 1976/2016 (43.8%, Cadenhead Single Cask, 1 x Bourbon Hogshead, 180b): nose: subdued and tertiary (Cavalier66 in pretentious mode), dunnage warehouse, dusty iron filings, caramel-y toffee (Cavalier66). CB confirms it is confected. Cavalier66 adds that it shows cask and age. I have dusty toffee, and JS Werther's Original; Cavalier66 sees butterscotch everywhere, whereas JS enjoys its juiciness. Cavalier66 insists: this has a mix of boiled sweets and butterscotch. I add a whiff of wet cardboard. The second nose reveals baked or stewed strawberries and maraschino cherries. Mouth: unctuous at first, it starts shooting gentle wood spices -- cinnamon in a paste, crunched bay leaves, and furniture varnish (CB). The second sip has the bite of freshly-polished old leather, then caramelised strawberry jam, and a bit of rancio. Finish: refined, we all agree. Caramelised baked apple (Cavalier66), cinnamon, toffee. It is very long and luscious, voluptuous, even. More caramelised jam, sticking to the pot, dark and gently spicy. Outstanding, even after the amazing Glencadam. 9/10
Cavalier66 [about the new Cadenhead Club bottling]: "A Highland. Or is it an Highland? It depends if you pronounce the 'H' or not, in which case you might as well be in Ancient Greece. Anyway."
JS: "For some resaon, this pun card game, you can only buy from the US." Cavalier66: "Brexit." tOMoH: "Don't start." JS: "Supply chains are broken, can't get a pun card game..."
CB presents Link-wood. A wood is where one might find a tree, in which one one might find an apple.
CB: "You thought there was another connection, tOMoH?" tOMoH: "First Cask. Adam was the first man." CB: "Ohhhhhhhhhh!..." Cavalier66: "Yes, he was! In fact, he was the first human. And he appeared in the Genesis, which is the first chapter..." tOMoH: "...of the Bible, arguably the first book."
Linkwood 21yo 1972/1993 (46%, Direct Wines (Windsor) Limited First Cask, Sherry Cask, C#14812, b#0068, 15129301): funny bottle code, eh? Unlike other Signatory codes. This is also a very-early First Cask, with the first livery, as the Balvenie we had last year. Perhaps not even bottled by Signatory? Nose: herbal and fruity this is a mix of rosemary and strawberry. Soon, a burnt smell overcomes all that -- and I mean a burnt-cake smell, not burnt paper. Crisp apple slices, lukewarm baked liquorice root, and a touch of hot metal and warm milk. The second nose is a tad more vegetal again, with cooked cabbage, now. Cavalier66 notes a farmyard dirtiness, at the back. It does feel a wee bit smoky, with subtle diesel fumes. Mouth: interestingly, it has a striking fruitiness, but also a clear chargrilled-meat touch. Juicy, somewhat spicy, reminiscent of warm and peppery apricot compote. Finish: bright, fruity and fairly sweet, we now have baked and caramelised apple slices. Apple compote, even. There is even a minty note. This tasting is getting better and better. 9/10
Cavalier66 presents a Nectar bottling, because he associates nectar with apples. Besides, it is a whisky from Ireland, what must be the most catholic whisky-making country in the world. Finally, there is a biblical scene on the label.
Cavalier66 [sniffing the bottle]: "How did they make this smell?" tOMoH [miming]: "By milking Adam, clearly."
Ireland 27yo 1988/2015 (49.5%, The Nectar of the Daily Drams joint bottling with La Maison du Whisky): nose: overripe peach and nectarine (Cavalier66), and mango (almost). Yes, there is a flood of overripe peach, and also persimmon, jackfruit, and apricot. Velvety peach skins become prominent, then it flirts with pink grapefruit (CB). It has a tiny pinch of ash or acetone-cleaned windscreen wipers that suddenly let through lichen on tree bark. The second nose seems less fruity, sadly. Mouth: oily on the palate, but gorgeously oily (Cavalier66). Proper citrus oil (CB). A lick of incense and lots of tropical stone fruits, really. It is faintly bitter at second sip: the fruit stones and incense become louder, and here are grapefruit peels. Finish: big, fresh, with spearmint, and lots of milk-chocolate-coated fruits. Grapefruit, papaya, mango skins and dried pineapple shavings. Well, this is incredible, is it not? 10/10
Cavalier66: "Sometimes, I wonder how much you can drink, before you get overwhelmed by this fruit." tOMoH: "You can leave the bottle here, if you do not like it." CB: "I think this is a strong contender for Jaffa Cake pairing."
Cavalier66 guesses the next link, which is presented by JS -- Glenl-Eve-t.
Glenlivet 26yo 1968/1995 (52.1%, Signatory Vintage selected by, bottled for and imported by Whyte & Whyte for The Spirits Library, Barrel, 95/137): nose: the most cask-driven one, so far. Indeed, it has sawdust, ginger powder and dry orange peels, ground into a powder. Mouth: a pronounced acidity, with grapefruits (white and pink), sweet lemon (CB), not-so-sweet lemon (Cavalier66), and sour wood (Cavalier66 again). The second sip is a mix of gunpowder and dried citrus segments, as far as tOMoH can tell. Finish: long, tangy, citrus-y, with a discreet Aspirin bitterness in the back. Excellent. I like it even better than the other day. 9/10
tOMoH presents the dram that gave him the idea for the theme, Glenc-Adam. Except I cocked up, and what I remembered to be a Glencadam is in fact a Glen-Allah-chie. Let us say that Allah is a central character in another religion of the Book.
Glenallachie 14yo 2000/2014 (57.3%, Chivas Brothers Cask Strength Edition, B#GA 14 006): nose: more lactic and butyric. CB has marzipan and white chocolate, whilst Cavalier66 settles for baby sick (he just loves it). For me, it is porridge and raising sourdough, milk that has been left out of the refrigerator all night. Mouth: white chocolate indeed, marzipan, Parmesan. It still has a pronounced lactic side, but also a bold, spicy kick. Finish: porridge, cereal dust. It turns a little juicier over time. Short notes, since I took detailed ones not too long ago. It stands out in the line-up as a totally different profile, but the quality remains high. 8/10
CB presents a Clynelish, which, in Gaelic, means sloped garden (of Eden). Simultaneously, JS presents Cottage garden (of Eden) beside a church -- and what is a church, if not Adam & Eve's father's house?
Clynelish 26yo 1993/2020 (52.7%, Càrn Mòr Celebration of the Cask, Bourbon Barrel, C#11215, 173b): we note the new packaging of this collection. JS regrets the sobriety of the older livery. Nose: oh! that smells creamy. A bowl of custard spilled on a split rock, then margarine. Gradually, tangerine slices grow in power. There is something clearly sweet, after a while, so sweet it might just be caster sugar. And then custard comes back with a vengeance -- chocolate custard. Mouth: apple juice (CB), slightly-cheap apple juice (Cavalier66), Sunkist (CB). Soon, citrus and wax take control (Cavalier66), yet the texture remains creamy (CB). It is crisp, ripe with a mix of apple and tangerine. The second sip adds a pinch of ground pips (which spells bitterness, that is right). Further sips are sweeter and more acidic again, underlining the fruits that are now very clearly of the citrus varieties. Finish: the fruity ride goes on, and once more welcomes a soft acidity. Ponkan, tangerine, mandarin join forces and provide the acid that easily dominates whatever remnants of custard there could have been. It is a creamy finish, but in a fruit-nectar way; it is not at all related to custard cream, at this point. Excellent. 8/10
vs.
26.93 28yo 1984/2013 Cottage garden beside a church (56.3%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Sherry Butt, 352b): similar age, but distilled a decade earlier. Nose: a totally different beast that displays a lot more ash and blue oranges. If that reads austere, it is because it is. Only deep nosing reveals a fleeting fruitiness, far into the sinuses, in amongst flint. There is soot too, metal filings, and hot cauldrons. Mouth: it seems more approachable here, with lots of gorgeous mandarin segments (though they are not far from turning blue), interwoven with incense sticks. Repeated sipping shows a more-gingery side and also displays mace. Finish: phwoar! Stewed citrus, covered in incense ash. This finish is never-ending, and brings back wave after wave of citrus. And ash. And citrus. And ash. And... Oh! and mace. Stupefying. As good as ever. 9/10
Cavalier66: "Is this Roxette's early stuff?" tOMoH: "Their prog era." JS: "Prog-xette."
CB presents Tormore, a distillery that is well known for its garden (of Eden).
Tormore 20yo 1996/2016 (57.4%, Gordon & MacPhail Cask Strength The Whisky Exchange exclusive Bottling, Refill Bourbon Barrel, C#5655, 160816): nose: chocolate and hazelnut paste. Oh! dear, this is such a good start. A bowl of chocolate custard, augmented with a spoonful of hazelnut paste, served with a mug of lukewarm cocoa. Someone else at the breakfast table is drinking a cup of chicory infusion, but it does not distract much. A basketful of fruits rest on the table, very ripe; persimmons, plums, hazelnuts, macadamia nuts, peaches so ripe they melt if you only look at them. The second nose sees some cardboard and papier mâché, laced with Kwatta chocolate paste. Cavalier66 finds it tropical elements. Mouth: fresh and milky, here are coconut milk, hazelnut milk, macadamia milk, with tatters of soft, fleshy fruits (peach, persimmon, yellow plum). We have a dollop of melted milk chocolate in the background, never intrusive, but adding a welcome dimension. It is powerful too -- the highest ABV today, and that is noticeable, albeit approachable. Further sips increase the heat like green chilli -- a time bomb. Finish: meow. Cavalier66 was right: it does have lovely tropical fruits, here too. Persimmon, of course (it is expected, by now), yet also dragon fruit, squashed banana, guava. That is still punctuated by dashes of chocolate milk for maximum happiness. The undeniable heat may be provided by chilli seeds that would be nutty and creamy as sesame seeds -- or halva, to be more accurate, a halva made of chilli seeds. Now, there is an idea!... Perhaps my score is generous, but I am seduced, today. 9/10
What a line-up! Phantastic quality from beginning to end.
Tomatin 18yo d.1976 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#27643): nose: this is wonderful berries jam, lush, sweet, and rich. We have figs, strawberries, and cranberries meeting the cleaning agent used on Calmac ferries. Pear compote, baked quince, membrillo, and stewed peaches are next, introducing polished dashboards and lacquered buffets. There is a whisper of dunnage warehouse, too, full of ex-wine casks, a not-much-bolder air of drying paint, a newly-lacquered bench at the other end of the warehouse, and a glass of tawny Port. The second nose has some kind of fertiliser that my grandfather used in his greenhouse -- he kept it in a yellow-and-blue spray can, not that it helps identify the content. Anyway, that is all easily eclipsed by fruit jams. Mouth: it is all ashy clay floors, wood lacquer and nail varnish, for a second, then the expected fruitiness takes over. It is not exuberant, nor frankly tropical, yet it is elegant nonetheless. Roasted blackcurrants, baked figs, yellow-tulip petals and blueberries. It becomes livelier with the next sip, with a fruity acidity that could easily be confused for plant bitterness. It does indeed turn to unripe passion fruit, or green maracuja (they do exist), with chopped carambola added for good measure. Finish: lovely caramelised jams through and through, so caramelised, in fact, that it is borderline root-y or rubbery. Let us call it nigella seeds on caramelised jams. And what jams! Figs, cranberries, currants, dark cherries, blueberries, as well as date relish. It is a lasting finish, although not a particularly powerful/invasive one. The fruits recede to leave mostly an earthy, rubbery side, gently bitter, and pretty drying. Grape pips end up in the picture too, reinforcing that impression of bitterness. The second sip is more openly fruity, flirting with exoticism, and comes close to unripe star fruit and guava. Emphasis on 'unripe': it keeps the bitterness of cold coffee. I wonder if this degraded in the open sample: it is good, yet I expected (and remembered) more of it. It does reward patience, though, what with more fruit coming out. 8/10
Cameronbridge 28yo 1979/2007 (54.4%, Duncan Taylor Rare Auld, Oak Cask, C#3583, 216b, b#88): nose: unmistakably a grain, with its lot of toasted coconut, yet that is augmented with something waxier, like crayon shavings. In fact, there is a lot of that, and one would easily imagine the grubby fingers of a drawing teacher at the end of a class, covered in crayon and watercolour, linseed oil and residue from paint tubes. It has its share of bakery goodness too, of course: rising sourdough and bread starter, but the crayons come out most clearly. The second nose has waxy fruits, perhaps ripe plums, or nectarines, kept in a plastic tub, or wrapped in cellophane. A spoonful of corn syrup has been spilled on warm linoleum, hot off the roll. Mouth: the attack is modelling paint (Revell or Humbrol), then it opens up and reveals a resolutely petrochemical profile -- warm cellophane, plastic bags, plastic bins being fabricated, flooring glue -- over an oily texture. Said texture underlines the plastic-y aspect, reminiscent of melted plastic. Yes, there is a bitter quality to this that screams melted plastic of various consistencies, from thin and malleable shrinkwrap to hard, baked dustbins, via rubber seals. The second sip adds corn syrup -- or is it maple syrup? In any case, it is sweet and a half, and a tad spicy in a red-chilli way (fresh or powdered), the bitter touch now provided by nigella seeds. Finish: gentle and discreet, it goes down almost unnoticed and takes a few seconds to make itself known. Once it has settled in, it prolongs the impressions from the nose and palate: melted plastic and the associated bitterness play alongside (overly-)toasted grated coconut. It is only via retro-nasal olfaction that the latter is more noticeable, in a creamy fashion. Later sips see a sprinkle of nigella seeds added to that coconut cream, and, maybe, just maybe, a thin dusting of ground black cardamom and a thin slice of gingerbread. Very good, provided one is not afraid of a little bit of plastic. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, PS)
Convalmore 16yo 1981/1997 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#89/604/112): I had kept this one to try alongside C#1538, then obviously forgot. Ah, well. Nose: a delicate, floral, almost ethereal nose, at first, with primrose, pansies, and forsythia, it soon pulls in plasticine, as well as leafier, waxier plants (peace lilies, monstera deliciosa). It is not long before all that turns drier, with desiccated bunches of flowers, pot-pourri, and Scottish gift shops, with their smells of candles, heather and faded tartan plaid. The second nose has unripe citrus (mandarin, tangerine, lime), and citrus foliage, not very fragrant, and covered in dust. It does wake up a tad, after a while, and oak-smoked pomelo and lime slices appear, alongside a drop of brine. Mouth: gently drying here too, the whisky takes a bitter turn on the tongue, with vine leaves, ivy leaves, black olives or tapenade, and a vaguely-soapy lick. Underneath that, flowers remain, and there are clearly some fruits, though too tame yet to identify them (unripe apples, maybe?) The second sip confirms what the nose suggested: oak-smoked green-citrus slices, oroblanco, combava, or lime. The leaves are present too, to a lesser extent, and, after a minute of keeping the whisky on the tongue, some mocha chocolate. Finish: bitterness, fruit, and leaves, all subtle. Clearly, we have unripe mandarins with their foliage, lime-onade in which lime leaves have soaked, Kaffir lime leaves, vine leaves... Boy! it is quite leafy, now. The next gulp adds mocha-flavoured chocolate and mocha toffee. It retains some citrus-y fruitiness, especially noticeable on the edges of the tongue, but that truly plays second violin to the mocha touch that now enjoys the spotlight. Further sips are a different story again, however: lime-and-milk-chocolate PiM's steal the blanket. I had this as a 7, at first sip, thought it was an off day, and found it dishonest to go higher, but it actually grows better with each sip. In line with my impression, a year-and-a-half ago. 8/10
Glenlivet 24yo 1974/1999 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#5131): lemon meringue, citrus custard, and grapefruit zest in melted fudge. A Bourbon cask? Without the shadow of a doubt, really! Deeper nosing reveals a further wood influence -- virgin-oak barrels (Quercus alba, it goes without saying), baked pineapple, and a spoonful of coconut milk. To a lesser extent, it has canary-melon skins too, though the yellow comes out more than the melon, if that makes sense. There is also a whisper of blue paint squirting out of a silver tube. Indeed, it turns more paint-like with time (I hesitate to use the word 'chemical'), even suggesting ashes. The second nose has fruit yoghurt and tinned pineapple slices. Mouth: a bold, acidic attack, it blends the woody notes from the nose with brio: grapefruit, pineapple, but also a bitterer, spicier version of white wood. Swirling the liquid around the tongue does put the emphasis on said bitterness, and we end up with lime zest and unripe green-pomelo peels. It remains spicy too, with a dusting of ginger powder and a pinch of asa foetida. The second sip seems even more bitter, in an unripe-fruit fashion. Maybe we see cucumber peel in a glass of gin & tonic? Finish: it is still firmly woody, yet back in more-welcoming territories, with gingery citrus custard, squashed pineapple, augmented with ginger powder and milled white pepper, and cubes of unripe Galia melon. This finish is of medium length, and becomes softer and sweeter with each sip. The marked bitterness from the mouth makes room for a fizzy feel, akin to that of lemonade. I am, of course, reminded of flying saucers filled with citric powder. Tip-top. Reading back my notes from the first time, they are surprisingly very different. 8/10
Glenlivet 24yo 1976/2001 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#5527): although the affiliation cannot be ignored, the differences are just as noticeable. We have similar notes of citrus custard, yet, here, it is sprayed with a delicious caramel drizzle; we have wood influence, but it is expressed with chocolate, this time. In other words: it is older, darker wood, with the occasional lichen patch growing on it. It certainly exhibits grapefruit too -- now riper, juicier green grapefruit, combava, or pomelo. Yes, the whole is warmer and more welcoming. Instead of tinned pineapple, it is baked pineapple, finished under the grill. The second nose adds an unexpected lick of strawberry jelly on a warm slice of soft bread. Further nosing hints at a vaguely-muddy side, a picture of a farm path after a downpour. Mouth: a bitter-acidic attack, in which the acidity balances the bitterness more convincingly than in C#5131. Here are roasted pomelo segments, grilled grapefruit, pan-fried lime slices, all topped with grated fresh ginger. Excellent! The second sip shows a thin texture, closer to citrus juice (no pulp) than to any dairy product, a feeling amplified by the growing acidity. Unripe fruits have been properly replaced by ripe one, here. Finish: the citric parade continues, with pomelo, grapefruit and lime expertly dishing out the right levels of acidity and bitterness. It is a bolder, longer finish than C#5131's, and it seems considerably sweeter. It is in no way sickly sweet! That simply means the bitterness and the acidity of the citrus fruits are considerably toned down. There is a gentle reminiscence of a fruity-dry white wine, towards the death -- Chablis, probably. The second sip pushes the fruity acidity the exotic way, and, if it is subtle and fleeting, we see glimpses of maracuja. Win. Again, amusing to see how different I found this, the first time. Perhaps evolution in the sample? 9/10
Glenlivet 26yo 1968/1995 (52.1%, Signatory Vintage selected by, bottled for and imported by Whyte & Whyte for The Spirits Library, Barrel, 95/137): here is one that has spent as much time in the glass as it did in the cask; the other two were close, but this is precisely at that point. Nose: a barrage of wood! Math teachers tend to have wooden shapes in their classrooms (cubes, spheres, pyramids, tetrahedrons, etc.) to illustrate geometry lessons -- at least, when tOMoH was in school, they did. Well, this smells like those shapes. Behind that, and once more, the family traits are plain to see: grapefruit (broiled, this time), citrus-y custard, a dash of caramel drizzle, and wood staves -- funnily enough, not as white as in C#5131, yet less dark-chocolate-y than in C#5527. And then we have old terracotta vases that have seen no water for months, in which the bunches of flowers have dried up, and that are thick with a crust of dust. From all that steadily rises an assertive-not-boisterous aroma of pomelo. The second nose announces more bitterness, perhaps some hazel leaves, lichen on staves, and combava peels, but also a pinch of dust. Sawdust? Hard to tell. Mouth: the most balanced attack today, it shines the metal that sometimes comes with horsepower (it is stronger than the previous two, after all), and unleashes a deluge of fruits. Roasted pineapple, baked baked grapefruit, broiled combava and limes... It is only when shaking it in the mouth that this shows some bitterness too, as if a plateful of baked-citrus peels had been found in the oven, long after the citrus flesh had been consumed. The second sip feels more acidic, clearly pointing at lime and less-ripe pomelo, but also spicier -- white pepper, asa foetida, and mango powder. The texture is perhaps a little thicker than that of the previous two drams, yet not really thick all the same. Citrus juice, still, made with a mix of ripe and unripe fruits. Finish: long and wide. Grapefruit and (slightly-unripe) pineapple are not a surprise, by now. In their tow are gently-bitter lime peels, steamed cucumber peels, and a growing layer of sawdust. That sawdust shapes up to become ginger powder and custard powder with subsequent sips, which also adds a spicy sweetness that very much rocks my boat. It could even be a brand of citrus-y fudge, dusted with ginger powder, or balsawood sawdust. In any case, it is amazing. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)
Balblair 03 1st Release 2003/2015 (46%, OB Vintage, DL10975): nose: crisp and fresh, here are brine-y apple slices and sea breeze that seem to carry a spoonful of pitch, which, somehow, adds a waxy-soot-y note. Freshness is the ordre du jour, however, and there is no major deviation from it. I had a friend with a dog named Hardois (a Bouvier des Flandres); for a reason I cannot explain, this nose reminds me of that dog, coming home after a brisk early-morning walk in the autumn. In the long run, the minute waxy note morphs into set nail varnish, or shellac, and becomes a little more identifiable. There is also dry hay, as one tilts the glass to drink from it. The second nose has a pleasant blackcurrant custard, and the clean rubber soles of a pair of brand-new green wellies. Mouth: a little green, here. Wax is certainly more present, chewy and bitter (it is not honey, after all), sappy as a tree can be in autumn. The second sip is just as green, bitter... and rough, really. We have overly-infused green tea, sappy leaves and grape stems. Finish: less bitterness, more fruitiness. Plump dark berries (blueberries, brambles, elderberries, blackcurrants), and the earthy vibe that sometimes comes along -- oh! this one is earthy alright, ready to make one believe in whisky terroir. Repeated sipping brings back the grape stems from the palate, unfortunately. It is not intolerable, but also not something I would seek out. Green-hazelnut paste, unripe walnuts as well. Over time, a certain fruity sweetness returns, yet it can no longer defeat the overarching bitterness that has taken over. Pity. 6/10
Glenury Royal 40yo 1970/2011 (59.4.%, OB, American Oak Refill Casks, 1500b, b#0074):nose: the power this nose has, after forty years' aging, is flabbergasting. It has some wood and wood oil, yet also something perfume-y, as well as a note that I cannot immediately decipher, that reminds me of my many 1980s vacations in Italy. Could it be a mix of moka pot on the stove, grappa, and caramel-and-chocolate custard? Quite likely, yes. Beside that, this has the weathered wooden benches of a bothy that has seen so many campfires it smells mildly acrid, even in the middle of the day, the years of wood smoke incrusted in the walls' every particle. It does not stop there, however: the afore-mentioned perfume-y side takes the shape of wild flowers in the Dolomites pastures (and I swear there are a few jasmine buds too), then conference pear peels and decaying apples. It keeps a clear wood influence, yet it is not an annihilating force. All the same, we have hay, ground cumin, ginger powder, cassia bark, and discreet ground cloves -- and then the flowery-fruity scents resurface, alongside lichen on staves. The second nose welcomes fruit stones and hazelnut, not quite ripe, as well as walnut shells -- or is it pistachio shells and a glass of Fino? Over the space of twenty minutes, it effortlessly goes from mountain-side rustic to gentlemen's-club sophistication, not merely at ease in both environments, but setting the tone, whilst never losing touch with its roots. Mouth: the attack is fruity, with a lick of unobtrusive rubber. Apple juice, peach-and-orange juice are next. Wood spices soon join the dance: cassia, ginger, coriander, all ground into a fine powder. The intensity is pretty impressive: here is a concentrated and powerful whisky alright! The second sip appear fruitier, in which orange takes the lead, adds blush orange and the peels that go with it, both fresh and dried, meaning a tad more bitter. It is now rather chewy too, and coats the entire mouth in a dusty-fruity layer, a mix of sawdust and ground dried blush-orange peels, almost ashy, in a fruit-tree-ash way. Finish: warm, warming, and getting warmer. Baked apples, dusted with ginger powder, powdered cassia bark, and white pepper. It is a long, powerful finish, never ending, and, actually, rather numbing. The second gulp feels a lot more orange-y -- an orange that would have been caressed by a delicate smoke for a long while. It also displays lichen on staves, warmed by direct sun rays and embers from burning fruit tree. In fact, it feels as though whole fruits have been thrown onto that fire, with caramelised apples and burnt pears dripping sweet juices to complement the blush-orange touch. Phwoar! Incredible. I cannot even be bothered adding water to this. I am sure it would take it well, but it is so extraordinary neat, today. Only a slight bitterness in the first sip will prevent top score. To think I had this down as a "good, but..." dram, the first time! Our second encounter was more in line with today's. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)
