31/08/2021 Glenrothes

Two Glenrothes in a month, can you believe it?

Glenrothes 21yo 1975/1996 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#6051): nose: youthful, green and lively, this has herbaceous notes aplenty, with vine leaves (dolmas), hay bales, but also kelp and other seaweeds. Then, we have dark ink, mushy, decaying parsley, kale and ivy. It also develops a more austere aspect, much more mineral; limestone, slate, graphite. Those are punctuated by lichen. Somehow, this nose also manages to emit laundry detergent, though it is not soapy in the slightest; one could safely assume it is flowers instead I suppose, yet it has that characteristic touch of fresh flowers and humid fabric that makes me think of laundry. Mind you, after a while, it resembles a fruity white wine, even. Later on, it is unripe-melon rind (cantaloupe), frolicking in damp clay. In the long run, the nose becomes more overtly fruity, with waxy mandarins -- and old wax too. Mouth: hot and, initially, earthy, it then turns more acidic and vaguely smoky, in a scorched-earth way, although weeks after the facts. Vine bark augmented with the velvety sweetness of green-grape flesh, a tiny bitter note of grape pips, and grape-pip oil too, as well as roasted hazelnuts. Perhaps a dollop of plasticine, too. The heat hints at fierce spearmint, rather than chilli, when taking a second sip, and that comes along a gentle cork-like feel: bitter, waxy, and covered in microscopic sugar crystals. The mouthfeel is on the thin, milky side. It has a distant note of wax, without any of the texture that goes with it. Finish: short and unexpectedly chocolate-y, here. Oh! The acidity and bitterness are well present, yet they are balanced by delicious, creamy milk chocolate. The second sip brings back some of the herbaceous character, without turning leafy; mint custard, rather than mint on its own, kale smoothie, mâche salad (valerianella locusta) doused with a simple dressing, grapefruit yoghurt, and chewy fruit sweets (Fruitella). Decent without being too special. Funny to see how different it felt on the night. Same score, all the same. 7/10

26/08/2021 Glen Grantages

Glen Grant 20yo d.1976 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#2880): nose: exotic woods (teak, mahogany and iroko) and rancio join forces for a gently-dusty nose that also feels rather oily (the teak, certainly). The longer it sits in the glass, the oilier and more solvent-y it seems to get, with more teak oil, decking stain and wood varnish. Suddenly, pastry comes out of nowhere: bakewell tart and plum pie. Soon, the woody/solvent-y side comes back, along with toasted notes of oily cake crust sticking to the tin mould. After nosing the second dram, this first one seems fruitier, even if it means unripe gooseberries, in this particular case. Come to think of it, it might as well be pomegranate seeds. And then, chestnut shells, Brazil nuts... Let us face it: this is a woody affair. Further nosing brings forth old planks left in a garden shed for decades, moss-covered staves, yet also pressed currants. Although the label would not say, the colour hints at an ex-Sherry cask, after all. Mouth:  juicy and sweet, this has apricot nectar oozing from every drop -- the organic kind; one in which a few stones have been blended in by mistake. There is a certain woody bitterness too, rising unannounced and invading the mouth, amassing against the roof of the mouth, specifically. Sawdust, old bookshelves crumbling into dust, a heap of logs, half-eaten by lichen. Yes, it is fruity, woody, yet not without something greener to it too. The second sip feels more clearly bitter (as in: berries that are not quite ripe), yet also more acidic, perhaps with a strawberry-vinegar note. In fact, it is likely pomegranate seeds again. Finally, the wood from the nose settles down for good, and we are back at an exotic-wood sawmill. Finish: unexpectedly buttery to start with, it then turns jammy. This finish has berry-filled turnovers and blueberry jam, perhaps red- and blackcurrant too, and a bitterer side -- not quite rubber, though not too far off; some kind of blackcurrant paste would be my guess. Chewy blackcurrant sweets, distant liquorice allsorts, chewy and slightly bitter. The more one sips this, the sweeter it seems to become, even if it never shakes off its gentle bitterness. Another excellent First Cask. 8/10

Glen Grant 24yo 1976/2000 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, Sherry Cask, C#2886): nose: this one is far less woody from the get-go, or at least, differently so. Baked banana or plantain, sweet shortcrust, shortbread, and tame custard seem more welcoming. It is not too long before the whole is given a lick of teak oil, yet that happens in the background. Pretty soon, the wood is completely overrun by a wave of baked or stewed strawberry: strawberry turnovers, strawberry-filled warm waffles, simmering strawberry jam. Oh! Hhere is a notch of blackberry too. The main character is is strawberry, however. In the long run, caramelised manuka honey shows up. Or is it maple syrup? In any case, it seems poured on a heap of blueberries, fragrant and distinctive. In the distance, a fleeting glimpse of hard-boiled egg, only picked up by the subconsciousness. It is definitely there, though. Well, either that, or my nose is too close to my mouth. Lastly, a no-less-fleeting floral note appears stealthily, halfway between lilac and honeysuckle. Mouth: toasted and sweet, with a soft metallic edge that reminds tOMoH of grain whisky (Invergordon, especially, not sure why). Out of the blue and before I can start thinking about those toasted notes, easily-recognisable purple passion fruit comes out all guns blazing, acidic and a little bitter. Most puzzling, most appreciated. As for the initial toasted note, it was indeed toasted bread, toasted coriander seeds, liquorice root or aniseed, but as soon as the passion fruit storms the scene, all that vanishes virtually completely. Finish: for a moment, it feels more conventional, with the toasted notes making a grand entrance (liquorice boot laces and toasted aniseed). Soon, that silly passion fruit is back with a huge grin, and takes the tongue out to tango. Hot jam is here, blackberry more than strawberry, toasted exotic wood (ebony, in this one) and dark nuts (kluwak). But all that is in the shadow of passion fruit. Assertive, a little mischievous, if neither frankly boisterous, nor vulgar. Amazing. 9/10

Well, both drams fared better than the first (cask) time (here and here).

20/08/2021 Bunnahabhain

Bunnahabhain 19yo d.1980 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#5643): nose: fresh, this is part sea-front walk, part garden stroll. It has a whiff of sea spray and sea breeze, complementing mint and ivy. Beyond that is something sweeter; from a fleeting Demerara-sugar impression, it is a short distance to gingerbread, hard-shelled sweets (Mentos or dragées) and crystallised lime segments with a serving of delicate seaweed for good measure. Mind you, this also has minty toothpaste, as the aforementioned Mentos suggest (is the filling not made of toothpaste anyway?) In the long run, the nose turns pretty citrus-y, with lime wedges, pomelo and satsuma taken with a margarita. That enduring battle between citrus, mint and sea spray makes for a, well, fresh nose indeed. The citrus seems to win, in the end, in case you are wondering. Just. The nose becomes silent over the space of thirty minutes, unfortunately. Too little left in the glass, perhaps? Too cold in the room, with the open window? In any case, do not sleep! Mouth: aaaaaand it is citrus-y custard, perhaps with a more tropical undertone. Beside the Buddha's hand and the sweet white grapefruit may be a tiny portion of passion fruit. This is gently acidic on the palate, and a tad bitter, in a grapefruit way. It is also juicy and does not lack sweetness. In fact, the next sips underline that sweetness, and the lime juice seems to morphs into sweetened mandarin nectar, which is far sweeter. Of the leafy side that was present on the nose, this only retains crumbly mint sweets, the sort that melts on the tongue. It is well pleasant. As always, in this series, the 46% ABV are an ideal strength. Finish: assertive, it is still citrus-y, adding custard to the equation. Yes, grapefruit-y custard, mint lozenges, a dash of passion-fruit liqueur, drowned in a river of seltzer, and a spray of refreshing sea breeze (including a minute saltiness). It is not a long finish, and one could complain that the reduction is felt, yet it does leave the mouth refreshed and the gums energised, as a morning mouthwash would. Very good Bunna. A strong 8/10

19/08/2021 Electric Coo Blend

Blended Scotch Whisky 27yo 1993/2020 (41.1%, CWC The Electric Coo Series, Refill ex-Sherry Butt): nose: it starts off with raspberry vinegar and salad vinaigrette, and has turned into exotic wood by the time it hits the sinuses -- mahogany, teak, redwood. Garden furniture creeps up, as do a heap of autumn leaves, warm red ink and cherry stones. There is a subtle whiff of hard-boiled egg, strangely enough, though it does not spoil the fun. Further nosing reveals dark cherries and blackberries, neither of which is very loud. Finally, a faint floral scent enters, forsythia, montbretia or peonies. Veeeeery faint. Mouth: rather wine-y on the palate, with a generous dose of tannins, macerated grape skins, pressed blackberries and even the tamed bitterness of slightly-unripe blackcurrants. This has something remotely nutty too, too thin to be a liqueur, too tame to be an eau-de-vie. Over time, the texture turns oilier, and that brings us back to that idea of nuts -- walnut kernels bathing in plum juice. Repeated sipping increases the woody character, and it emphasises a certain dryness. That would be old wood, then. Finish: perfect strength for me, and it is juicy to boot. The finish is the strong point, in my opinion; it has the acidity of the berries mentioned above, enough bitterness and nuttiness to remind one that it has spent twenty-seven years in wood, yet none of the greenness of unripe fruit. There is a drop of raspberry vinegar again, lost amidst the berries and the nuts. Come to think of it, this might well have chewy marzipan, pickled with said raspberry vinegar. It works. Good blend! 7/10

18/08/2021 Disparate duo

Glenrothes 39yo 1970/2009 (47.9%, Duncan Taylor Rare Auld specially selected by The Nectar, C#10567, b127, b#83): nose: an aroma of peach skin in tatters, ground almonds or macadamia nuts, and crushed conference pear. A minute of breathing dials the fruit up a notch, and the nose bursts with waxy plums, apricots, nectarines and mirabelle plums, all kept in a copper case. In fact, this has a distinctly metallic touch to boot -- new copper coins coming straight out of the mint. A bit further on, a soft, woody lick forms, damp, freshly-cut birch logs, dead leaves on a forest floor in early autumn. The yellow fruits are soon back, this time sweeter; it is relatively safe to say it is apricot jam, now. A leather pouch of Virginia tobacco rests next to that. Even further on, old pans and pots in a cupboard, from a time before stainless steel and Teflon invaded the household. In other words: copper and cast iron. Mouth: ooft! It is hugely metallic on the tongue, with those old pots and pans, as well as copper coins, this time older ones, showing some wear and traces of verdigris. The liquid seems quite feisty, for a good forty-second, with mild chilli powder and coriander powder. That eventually calms down, and some fruits make a comeback -- tinned peaches bled on by the tin, apricot jam that would have taken on some taste from the tin lid. There is something a little toasty via retro-nasal olfaction too -- toasted stave perhaps? Yes, and that stave has dried lichen on it. It is impressive how full this feels at this relatively-modest strength. Honey-glazed pastry, toasted to caramel, almost. The texture is in line: jam or marmalade, and manuka honey make this acidic and sweet at the same time. Finish: it slays, at this stage. A gulp of chicory infusion, a spoonful of light brown sugar and warm honey on toasted bread all fight for attention (a tame fight, though). Once the brawl disperses, the winner is a golden apricot jam spread onto toasted crumpets. Little (if any) of the metal makes it this far, the wood from the nose is reduced to a vaguely bread-y haze, and the gentle spices from the palate are but a lovely cinnamon butter. The finish is long and persistent; it coats the palate like a honey-glazed doughnut. Phenomenal. Who knew Glenrothes could be this good? 9/10

Note the funny hat. The 
original cork disintegrated
(of course), and the replacement
also crumbled

St. Magdalene (Linlithgow) 12yo 1982/1995 (63%, Cadenhead Authentic Collection, Oak Cask): nose: herbal and aromatic to start with, it soon makes a bonfire of the hairs in the nostrils. The contrast in ABV with the previous dram could hardly be starker. Besides the heat, however, it is like entering an old herbalist's shoppe: hawthorn, thyme, juniper, rosemary, dried marigold. Suddenly, it turns immensely woody, with antique chairs in dire need of a lick of oil, dusty bookshelves from the XIIIth century, and stacks of old papers. Further still, parchment and old leather show up, so old they are rigid and, consequently, fragile. There are some yellow fruits, hidden behind all that, yet they are difficult to identify. Actually, more than fruit, what emerge are Military biscuit, Choco As biscuit (without the chocolate), crumbly and dry, leaning towards dusty. Water makes this peppery (green pepper), and reveals more citrus -- pomelo and a few chunks of Chinese gooseberry. Far in the back of the sinuses, green passion fruits appear (shy), as does carambola (just as shy). Later on, the reduced nose turns a little leafier. Mouth: the initial mouthfeel is gently lemon-y (read: thin and acidic), though that is soon eclipsed by an obvious heat. Considering the fierce ABV, it is more tolerable than expected, but it is warm alright. Hot, plain biscuits, lemon (not just the juice, but the zest too), and a herbal quality again (thyme, lemon thyme, juniper). This is mouth-watering, with sage-sprinkled lemon marmalade and citrus-y biscuit crumbs. There is even lime tonic, in this. Further sipping brings about a certain sweetness, maybe vanilla sugar? Or is it custard powder? Water unfortunately throws this off balance: it becomes fruitier, but feels watery; so watery, in fact, that the fruit, which might well be carambola, is barely recognisable. It does make it sweeter, however, and leafier, to a degree, with clementine foliage and lemon mint. Finish: surprisingly gentle (he says, his lips still throbbing from the alcohol shock), this has citrus written all over it (yellow kiwi, soft grapefruit and calamansi -- it is not all acidic lemon, this time), on an underlying herbal character (norii joins thyme and hawthorn). This finish, a wee while after swallowing, develops a certain bitterness too. In no particular order, we have lime peels, lichens, verdigris and oxidised metal, veering towards pencil-sharpener blades, without ever quite reaching them. The second sip has a vaguely-bitter custard, which is as unexpected as it is good. Water tones down the metal and all things bitter, adds a drop of pear juice, and makes for an easier sipper. In other words: it makes this dram far less interesting, unfortunately. If adding water at all, it is a good idea to let it sit for at least fifteen minutes to allow the whisky to regain some semblance of balance. 9/10

16/08/2021 Littlemill

Littlemill 24yo 1990/2015 (54.2%, Alambic Classique Rare & Old Selection, Oloroso Sherry Cask, C#15305, 295b, b#247): nose: juicy fruit and chocolate milk for the true breakfast whisky. There is a lot of caramel here too, and suntan lotion, then granola in custard, augmented with chunks of peach and Chinese gooseberry. Behind all that is a pinch of coffee grounds, though it is concealed behind the aforementioned chocolate milk. Later on, the nose develops a rougher, gravel-y touch, which offers an interesting contrast; it is only fleeting, mind. Even later, a bubble-gum nuance appears, as amusing as it is strange; cinnamon-and-strawberry bubble gum, and it it becomes pretty prominent. The second nosing brings forth lukewarm white coffee... until the bubble gum comes back with a vengeance. Mouth: the attack is mellow, caramel-y or chocolate-y, as well as a little wine-y, in a Sherry or Madeira way, which is to say simultaneously sweet and earthy. Once settled on the tongue, there is zero doubt that this is a chocolate-y number, what with the thick chocolate milk and chocolate custard, so thick it has a skin forming on top. There may be peaches, yet they are coated in chocolate, even if it is of the milky kind (also known as: not real chocolate). Repeated sipping underlines the fruit, yet never makes it the main feature. Earthy chocolate, verging on caffè macchiato, always stays on top. The texture is also that of chocolate-laced dairy -- custard or thick cream at first, then thinning down into milk. Finish: after a kicking arrival, this turns chocolate-y again, with more Madeira, peaches in chocolate and baked earth. Soon, fruitier notes appear too, with (very shy) slices of mango. It is rather spicy a finish, where grated ginger and cinnamon bark introducing turmeric powder. Repeated sipping solidifies the impression of milk chocolate or chocolate custard, pudding -- a chocolate custard to which the baker would have added peach chunks, and on which turmeric powder has been sprinkled. Very original indeed. It is less fruity than I remembered it (I tried this a couple of weeks ago), but no less excellent. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)

Happy birthday, AM.

12/08/2021 Invergordon

Invergordon 43yo 1972/2016 (49.3%, A.D. Rattray The Whisky Angel, C#38): from the get-go, this one showcases its provenance: it bursts with blackcurrants. It has warm bread underneath, crusty, fluffy, and straight out of the oven. Strangely, it is truly bread instead of pastry, in this one. Further are a hot metal plate (presumably the one the bread has been baking on), and apricot compote, as well as a wooden cutting board, still warm and damp after having been in the dishwasher. The second nose has a lovely pineapple purée that complements the blackcurrant like Gordon complements MacPhail. It is strikingly not as woody as could be expected, after so long in the cask, and it has little of the glue, solvents and varnish that grain whiskies tend to bring. Oh! sure, it has esters, but they carry fruits, not solvents. Mouth: woah! This is juicy, ripe with apricot compote for a fleeting second, then an onslaught of blackcurrant jelly. Said jelly is at once hot and sweet, with wood spices aplenty (cinnamon powder, ground cardamom and ground cumin), and the natural sugar from the gorgeous fruits. It is tempting to look past that and find mango chutney -- and indeed, the fruity sweetness, hand in hand with a spiciness, at times flirting with nigella seeds, do suggest that. In truth, it is probably closer to banana purée than mangoes, though. The creamy texture confirms squashed banana too. Blackcurrant-laced squashed banana, with a dollop of strawberry yoghurt and a spoonful of black cumin seeds sprinkled on top. Finish: hugely fruity, still dominated by the trademark blackcurrant, although blackberry might be in the equation too, now. This finish is long and comforting, a little sweet, a little acidic. Blackcurrant turnovers turn up, custard-y and buttery, and with them is the memory of the metal plate they baked on. That metallic note is now very faint, especially when compared with the nose, yet it is there alright. Over time, what appeared to be custard seems to morph into squashed banana in the finish too, which is very pleasant, provided one likes banana. The strawberry yoghurt is more discreet, here, yet still present. The bitterness of a metal spoon remains in the mouth for a little while. I should have bought this, at the time. Ah, well. 9/10

Happy birthday, MPD.

11/08/2021 Glenury Royal

Glenury, Glenury Royal, Glenury-Royal. To-may-to, to-mah-to.

Box MkII with label MkI
Tsk-tsk!

Glenury Royal 1984/2007 (43%, Gordon & MacPhail Rare Old, JG/AEB): nose: oooh! it is full of lovely stewed oranges, marmalade and candied peel. Upon pouring this, it seemed mildly woody; nothing overwhelming, but there certainly was furniture wax and garden chairs, coated in oil, as well as plywood sheets. Now, a few minutes later, it is all about fruit, and oranges definitely lead that dance. Looking very hard, one may find subtle nuts too. However, the dominant is and remains stewed oranges: compote, chunky marmalade and warm PiM's filling. The second nose has barley sugar and warm porridge, doused with honey. Tilting the glass seems to add Cologne, far in the back of the nose. In the long run, dunnage warehouse also makes a discreet entrance. Mouth: it seems gentle at 43%, yet keeping the liquid on the tongue reveals just how feisty this would have been at cask strength. Ginger shavings, cinnamon sticks, dried orange rind, sumac and ground cloves provide a spicy background for what is otherwise a continuation of the nose, which is to say: orange-y. The palate is bitterer than the nose suggested, but it is tolerable. Unripe hazelnuts or unripe (and unsalted) pistachios and bitter Seville-orange rind. This is truly a marmalade-y drop! Perhaps it has a herbal-and-metallic nuance, dried oregano, marjoram or sage. Finish: oranges are loud, still, yet a bold nuttiness matches it, this time. Walnut oil, hazelnut shells, roasted pistachios, cocoa-bean shavings. It is also pretty sweet, here, with honey and poached apricots joining the warm marmalade. There is soft tree bark too. Nothing like the cinnamon sticks from the nose: in fact, it reminds me of landscaping mulch. Then again, it might simply be cocoa beans instead, chewy and not very tasty. Towards the Death, distant cardamom pods call for attention, although they barely succeed at being heard. This is a long, comforting finish that is never boisterous and all the more appreciated for it. Excellent! 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)

09/08/2021 Hillside

Glenesk, Hillside, Montrose. To-may-to, to-mah-to.

Hillside 25yo 1971/1997 (62%, OB Rare Malts Selection, b#0914): leftover from this tasting, ahem, almost five years ago. Nose: firstly, it clears the nostrils. Secondly, it is a big, robust Highlander, not too rugged, but pretty intimidating nonetheless. It has a lot of metal, in a tool-shed way, ground avocado stones, then verdigris and gravel -- the moss-covered shingles at the bottom of an emptied aquarium. The more one sniffs it, the more it goes back to the tool shed: oxidised gardening tools with wooden handles, leather gardening gloves, dried to the point they have lost all flexibility, an old bottle of fertiliser and sacks of hazelnuts, harvested seventeen seasons ago. And then, it reveals more metallic notes: hacksaws, sickles or scythes, chainsaw oil, old rakes with a few dead leaves between the teeth. The second nose seems a little grassier, in a freshly-mowed-lawn sort of way, and has walnut oil to boot. With water, the austerity is dialled down. Oh! It remains a robust Highlander that smells like whisky, yet it now also has jam on toast and preserved lemons to accompany a wool plaid and hot, cast-iron fire pokers or tongs. Mouth: big. Very big. It has shovelfuls of ash, dried tree bark, rancio, wine residue, lichen, ground hazelnut shells. The texture is frighteningly acidic, stripping, even. All that fortunately calms down, after a wee while, even though it does not become welcoming in the slightest. The old garden tools come back alongside chainsaw oil and nutshells. In the long run, roasted apricot stones and, in fact, all kinds of fruit stones appear. It would be a mistake to think this is fruity, however. It turns a little creamier as the mouth gets accustomed to the brutal ABV, but it is well bitter. As it did on the nose, water cranks up a jammy-toast note; pepper is liberally sprinkled on that jam, as is ground sumac. Finish: warming, not hot, the finish is very long and has its difficult aspects, namely the musk of a wet cat. It is hairy, dry and drying, with metal aplenty (if you have ever licked a razor blade, or a pencil-sharpener blade, this is it), and some herbs (marjoram, dried dill, tarragon). Repeated sipping brings chocolate into the mix; an interestingly-herbal chocolate. Not mint chocolate -- no! More like marjoram chocolate, enhanced with ground pepper. It is much more pleasant than it may read. Kaffir lime leaves are the last thing to show up... Or are they bergamot leaves? Water confirms the bergamot leaves, this time with a bit of fruit too. Old tools subsist, even if they are less invasive, lichen on stones, mould-covered citrus and marjoram, still. Retro-nasal olfaction sees a butter knife recently used to cut a slice of frangipane tart that is slowly being covered in mould. Challenging dram. I like it, but I do not think I could drink lots of it. 7/10

06/08/2021 Glenturret

Glenturret 28yo 1986/2015 (50.1%, A.D. Rattray Cask Collection, Bourbon Cask, C#342, 191b): nose: oooh! This is wide, sweet, and full of jam or compote; apricot is my guess. Some wood in the background, cherry-tree floorboards, mahogany, perhaps even teak. Then, it is a mug of hot chocolate, served with a tablespoon of mulled wine. Over time, the wood turns spicier, adding ground nutmeg, crushed bay leaves, ground pepper, cinnamon powder and garam masala to the mix. A couple of minutes later, that spice clears up and lets more fruit through. This time, however, it is berries instead of apricots: gooseberry, billberry, strawberry, cranberry and lingonberry. It promises more sweetness and tartness. The second nose adds rose water, always a bonus. Mouth: and tart it is! Berry-forward (you read it here first), it is almost jelly-like in texture -- an acidic/sweet berry jelly, that is. Some of the spices are back: a tiny dose of bay leaves, caraway seeds and toasted fennel seeds augment shy, caramelised apricot compote. Further sips bring caramelised-onion relish (!) and rose water too, which, surprisingly, works a treat. The interplay between light, ester-y notes (rose water) and thicker, darker ones (caramel) is fascinating, really. Finish: long, wide and comforting, the finish sees a metallic whisper (verdigris-eaten copper and butter knives) holding hands with cranberry sauce; it is sweet, yet also firmly acidic. That acidity slows down, over time, and minty, hard-shelled sweets take centre stage: Jordan almonds, lozenges, Mentos. After a while, it goes as far as crystallised berries, elderberry drops and cranberry boiled sweets. The finish presents a drop of fortified wine in the back of the throat, again, pretty tart, but balanced out by the delicate bitterness of distant crushed Aspirin. Lovely! 8/10

Happy birthday, CH.

05/08/2021 Glenglassaugh

Glenglassaugh 40yo 1965/2006 (46.7%, Duncan Taylor selected by & exclusively bottled for The Whisky Fair, Fino Sherry Butt, 361b): nose: it is a dry-and-fruity white wine, with a drop of apricot juice to spice things up. Juicy grapes, lychee, Chinese gooseberry, soft apricot, but also honeysuckle, jasmine, and a hint of the most refined smoke. This is light, (extremely) elegant, ethereal, akin to entering a perfumist's shop in one of the poshest arrondissements of Paris, I would imagine. Further on, green citrus appears; dried pomelo peels, unripe limes, unripe bergamot. There might even be a soft touch of scented wax. The second nose has flower petals (white and pink roses, pink tulips) and antique furniture. It does not have this overtly varnish-y character that antique furniture so often has, though: it is old wood au naturel. Tantalising nose! Mouth: thin in texture, it is pretty acidic, with more of the citrus from the nose (lime, pomelo, bergamot), and a certain bitterness (cucumber peel, citrus pith). The smoky impression is less felt, here, hinting at old boilers, rather than campfires. This has some wood too, which is not unexpected, after forty long years in a cask, I suppose: eucalyptus powder, sawdust, balsawood. The whole is balanced and integrated to perfection, with the somewhat modest ABV turning out ideal, and cassia bark and Chinese five-spice mix adding some excitement on the taste buds. Retro-nasal olfaction catches snippets of pink marshmallow as a nice treat. What a delight! Finish: it is certainly acidic, here, yet it also has an undeniable creaminess to it. Flowers come out most, with fruits comfortably quiet in the back seat, and the smoke virtually absent. At a push, one may detect smoky kumquats. In the medium term, the bitterness of leafy wood settles in (chai, eucalyptus and tulip stems), though it remains well-behaved. Even later, white-wine-soaked pink marshmallow brings a sweeter ending to this beautiful finish. Remarkable whisky! 9/10 (Thanks for the sample, PS)

01/08/2021 Man 2 Man

Second real-life tasting in a year (after the one in late June), and the first at tOMoH Central. This was supposed to be the theme for Burns' Night 2021, but, of course, it did not happen. Theme recycling is in order, then. Labels that have a man / men on them.

PS, BA, JS and OB join me for an afternoon of dramming.

Soundtrack: Ruptured World - Shore Rituals

OB is waiting for his laundry cycle to finish before joining us, and, considerate as we are, we wait for him to start. In that time, JS discovers that BA and I have the same notebook. In fact, we all discover that BA is serious and a half, when it comes to notebooks, fountain pens, fonts and more.

BA [about his notebook]: "They do quarterly releases and special editions."

Soundtrack: ASC & Inhmost - Dimensional Space

OB joins us at last. The festivities may start.

He is wearing his best Oreo socks :-)

St Magdalene 1980/1995 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Centenary Reserve, IE/ABE) (me): the label sports an old-school picture of the Elgin shop's staff. BA joyfully tells us he tried this a couple of weeks ago in a London pub. I am well annoyed, but he says he loved it and is looking forward to trying it again. Nose: between hay and juicy grass. PS reckons it has a mustiness verging towards smoke. I find blueberries aplenty, purple plums, pressed blackberries and, perhaps, lichen (could that be the smoke PS is talking about?) Mouth: there is a soft bitterness on the tongue, but it is mostly fruits. Doyenné du Comice pears, berries' skins, blackcurrants, plums. Finish: this is gorgeously juicy, with more softly-bitter, sappy notes of cut flower stems -- not quite dandelion, rather tulip. Towards the death, there is a subtle dirtiness that could be taken for smoke. It is probably soot, though. BA says he likes it better than the one at the bar: that one had lost too much alcohol, more so than this one. My full notes are here.8/10

BA: "I'm waiting for a pen sack from India. It is made of polished hard rubber."
JS: "Polished hard rubber!?"
BA: "Yeah."
PS: "I wouldn't google that."

Tomatin 43yo 1965/2009 (41.1%, The Lonach Whisky Company Lonach imported by Preiss Imports) (JS): the label has a drawing of a bloke. Nose: tropical fruit and marzipan, maraschino cherries from a fresh tin, baked banana, mango slices and Turkish delights. Mouth: the banana is pronounced, and there is some pepper on a metal plate too. Finish: marzipan and metal it is. A little less marzipan, at this stage, actually, but it does not matter. It remains a cracking dram. full notes here. 9/10

Bowman Brothers Pioneer Spirit (45%, OB Small Batch): Bowman, geddit? BA could not recall ever having an American whiskey here, so he dared bring this pot-still Bourbon, half-worried it would be seen as a faux-pas. Not at all! Nose: woah! This is loud. It is also completely dominated by wood. Dried banana skins, white wood, heated to the max. And then, teak oil joins the party. Mouth: teak oil it is, banana skins again, aniseed; It has a distinct boiled-sweet quality to it, yet it does not feel sickly sweet. Finish: it is sweet, of course, but also a little woody (just a little, believe me), fresh and warming. Veal paupiettes make a late appearance (oiseaux sans tête, for those who know). 7/10

Pioneers alright

Crisps and popcorn appear

Soundtrack: Axiome - L'Avenir Est Un Cerf Teint

Deanston 35yo 1977/2012 (40.4%, The Whisky Agency & The Nectar, 253b) (JS): Dean is a man's name. Case in point, the distillery is so named, because it is in Dean's town. Nose: remarkably potent at this low strength. This is another fruity number, with apples and berries juice, augmented with a few drops of passion fruit. It has a lot of milk and buttery fruit, really. In fact, after a while, it smells of butter, even. Mouth: superb texture, slightly spicy in a mango-chutney sort of way. It has a strong oxidised-metal touch, at second sip, a mild, lichen-y bitterness, and hot apricot jam. Finish: amazing length and depth, this. It cranks up hot jams in metal tubs, and has a buttery-mango feel lingering on the tongue. I find it surprisingly metallic, without that being detrimental in any way. Full notes here. 9/10

Blend On The Run 29yo b.2020 (45.6%, Signatory Vintage for Whisky Sponge, First Fill Sherry Butt for 13 Years, 314b) (BA): this label has a picture of nine men (including BA himself, in fact, who tells us one might be a woman). BA reminds us this is a compilation of samples sent to Signatory over ten or fifteen years that were poured in a Sherry cask for ten years of marrying maturation. Nose: black bun, mud, wine sauce. This has humongous quantities of rancio too. Mouth: meaty-earthy, wine-y, and quite dry at the same time. The Sherry very much smothers everything else. OB reckons it has Parma Violet, but I cannot see that. Lavender, at a (very) distant push. Finish: similar to the nose and palate, this is earthy, rancio-y, and has its fair share of dried fruits (prunes, raisins, figs). There is also a copious dose of nut oils, here, both in terms of texture and taste. Full notes here. 7/10

PS: "The one thing I am a big, big fan of..."
tOMoH: "..is money!"

Soundtrack: Lustmord Karin Park - Alter

Loch Lomond (Inchmurrin) 29yo 1974/2003 (54.4%, Cadenhead Chairmans Stock, Bourbon Barrel, 210b) (OB): OB brings out the Chairmans from the Dead (we had this many years ago), and it is only today that we note the missing apostrophe in the collection's name. Here is a candidate for a typo tasting! Nose: sink funk, immediately. But then, it also has bold leather, rancio, "metal, almost OBE" (BA) and hiking boots. Mouth: earthy and nutshell-like, this even has some ink. The more I sip it, the sweeter it becomes, with Demerara sugar and melted caster sugar. Finish: "meatier than expected" (BA), it is rather hairy, full of sink funk. "What do you call sink funk?" asks JS. Well, the ball of hair clogging a sink that grab everything that passes through -- toothpaste, saliva, soap et caetera. I find the smell tends to converge with that of overripe tropical fruits. I enjoy this dram a lot, even though my notes may not reflect that very well. 8/10

BA: "I joined, because they offered an engraved metal plate."
tOMoH: "Would they engrave... A FOUNTAIN PEN?"
BA: "NEVER engrave a fountain pen. I did consider it. Anyway."

PS presents: Mango 2 Mango

46.49 23yo d.1992 Mango Colada (52.5%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Virgin Heavy Toast Medium Char Oak Hogshead, 276b): nose: cream, hot copper and apple compote. It is an odd mix -- and, of course, I love it. Over time, the metal grows, whilst the apple morphs into a more-tropical variant called mango. Mouth: citrus and wheat-flour-based pastry, custard powder, sawdust, grapefruit zest, mango skin, perhaps. Most of the tropical nuances are now toned down, and it is more of a woody dram -- in a good way! After a moment, ginger yoghurt rises, both the texture and the heat. Finish: long, pastry-like and -- oh! The mango is back. It is a custard-y type of mango, less impacted by the sawdust, here. Excellent, excellent Glenlossie! 8/10

vs.

117.3 25yo 1988/2013 Hubba-bubba, mango and monstera (58.5%, SMWS Society Single Cask, 1st Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 199b): just this morning, JS joked that someone might bring 117.3. I said I hoped not, since we have had it so many times. "Considering the quality of the juice, I am prepared to live with that disappointment," JS said. And here it is. Nose: well, this is an old friend, and, unsurprisingly, it is ridiculously fruity. At the same, time, because it is from a freshly-opened bottle, it is also pretty metallic: old coins, copper, lichen hand in hand with the immense mango. It also has pineapple, papaya, grapefruit... It is just teeming with fruit Mouth: oh! Man, this is so fruity. It still has a bold, metallic side, in the shape of lead pipes and silver spoons, but that is submerged by fruit, mango and peach. In the long run, a dusting of pepper is added on top. Finish: huge, mango-laden, bursting with tropical fruit. Hot chocolate rocks up too, hardly a match for the buttery mango juice that dominates this masterpiece. 10/10

Total winnage

PS: "The Glencairns are, shall we say, robust."
BA: "You can use them in the bathroom, yes."

Soundtrack: Phelios - Astral Unity

tOMoH: "We brought these Maltesers for you, PS."
OB: Could you distil them?"
tOMoH: "Probably. It's full of sugar. It would be single Malteser whisky."
PS: "You'd have to make it in Malta, though."

BA: "I do not like geese."
tOMoH: "Greylag? Egyptian? Canadian?"
BA: ...
tOMoH: "Oh! All of them, then?"
BA: "Swans, I'm not fond of either. Privileged geese."

G5.2 17yo 1993/2011 Strumming the strings of the soul (65.3%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Virgin Toasted Oak Hogshead, 248b) (OB): I wonder if this is in theme because of InverGordon, but no: OB explains it is because of the manly strength ("I do not condone that kind of language," he quickly adds. He is woke, our OB.) Nose: boom! This is explosive. It has industrial glue, blackcurrants to the brim, but it is also nose-stripping. Hot banana, or indeed plantain. The second nose has grapefruit peels. Mouth: huge, bombastic, full of industrial glue again. There is a little of the trademark blackcurrants, but I find the whole is completely possessed by that glue, which, by the way, is now close to stamp glue. The more I sip it, the bolder the glue comes out. Finish: glue, still, but now, the blackcurrant starts  coming through more pronouncedly, spread onto heavily-buttery pastry and shiny croissants. I like it less than the first time. Whether that is the sequence, the fact it is a new bottle, the obscene ABV or the fact I have not had this much whisky in one sitting for a year is unclear. Still very good, mind. 8/10

Soundtrack: Gridlock - Trace

Mannochmore 18yo b.1997 (66%, OB The Manager's Dram, Refill Sherry Casks, 1800b, b#1207) (tOMoH): two men on the same label -- ha! (Mannochmore and Manager.) Had this one at Dornoch and liked it enough to procure it. Nose: I spot toffee and candied apple, whilst BA finds it petrol-y. To me, it is sweet and caramel-y, but I will gladly admit I am beyond notes, at this point. Hot metal, hot espresso machine (the machine, not the coffee). I can even feel smoke, in this. Mouth: it is warm, but the 66% feel strangely tamed. Here are orange peels, dried to cardboard, then ground into a powder, toffee and caramelised marmalade, aniseed and a touch of liquorice. Finish: big, yet tamed enough, once again. There is a bit of mocha and an earthy side. In the long run, however, what comes out most is the sweet profile -- candied apple, toffee and poached pear. A lovely drop. I am looking forward to trying it again and giving it more time. 8/10

Ten whiskies. Only two of those I had not had before. It was good to try those I had had again, and the newcomers did not pale in comparison.

Excellent afternoon. Tomorrow will prove that I am out of practice indeed. Ah, well.