20 August 2021

20/08/2021 Bunnahabhain

Bunnahabhain 19yo d.1980 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#5643): nose: fresh, this is part sea-front walk, part garden stroll. It has a whiff of sea spray and sea breeze, complementing mint and ivy. Beyond that is something sweeter; from a fleeting Demerara-sugar impression, it is a short distance to gingerbread, hard-shelled sweets (Mentos or dragées) and crystallised lime segments with a serving of delicate seaweed for good measure. Mind you, this also has minty toothpaste, as the aforementioned Mentos suggest (is the filling not made of toothpaste anyway?) In the long run, the nose turns pretty citrus-y, with lime wedges, pomelo and satsuma taken with a margarita. That enduring battle between citrus, mint and sea spray makes for a, well, fresh nose indeed. The citrus seems to win, in the end, in case you are wondering. Just. The nose becomes silent over the space of thirty minutes, unfortunately. Too little left in the glass, perhaps? Too cold in the room, with the open window? In any case, do not sleep! Mouth: aaaaaand it is citrus-y custard, perhaps with a more tropical undertone. Beside the Buddha's hand and the sweet white grapefruit may be a tiny portion of passion fruit. This is gently acidic on the palate, and a tad bitter, in a grapefruit way. It is also juicy and does not lack sweetness. In fact, the next sips underline that sweetness, and the lime juice seems to morphs into sweetened mandarin nectar, which is far sweeter. Of the leafy side that was present on the nose, this only retains crumbly mint sweets, the sort that melts on the tongue. It is well pleasant. As always, in this series, the 46% ABV are an ideal strength. Finish: assertive, it is still citrus-y, adding custard to the equation. Yes, grapefruit-y custard, mint lozenges, a dash of passion-fruit liqueur, drowned in a river of seltzer, and a spray of refreshing sea breeze (including a minute saltiness). It is not a long finish, and one could complain that the reduction is felt, yet it does leave the mouth refreshed and the gums energised, as a morning mouthwash would. Very good Bunna. A strong 8/10

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