27 August 2021

26/08/2021 Glen Grantages

Glen Grant 20yo d.1976 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#2880): nose: exotic woods (teak, mahogany and iroko) and rancio join forces for a gently-dusty nose that also feels rather oily (the teak, certainly). The longer it sits in the glass, the oilier and more solvent-y it seems to get, with more teak oil, decking stain and wood varnish. Suddenly, pastry comes out of nowhere: bakewell tart and plum pie. Soon, the woody/solvent-y side comes back, along with toasted notes of oily cake crust sticking to the tin mould. After nosing the second dram, this first one seems fruitier, even if it means unripe gooseberries, in this particular case. Come to think of it, it might as well be pomegranate seeds. And then, chestnut shells, Brazil nuts... Let us face it: this is a woody affair. Further nosing brings forth old planks left in a garden shed for decades, moss-covered staves, yet also pressed currants. Although the label would not say, the colour hints at an ex-Sherry cask, after all. Mouth:  juicy and sweet, this has apricot nectar oozing from every drop -- the organic kind; one in which a few stones have been blended in by mistake. There is a certain woody bitterness too, rising unannounced and invading the mouth, amassing against the roof of the mouth, specifically. Sawdust, old bookshelves crumbling into dust, a heap of logs, half-eaten by lichen. Yes, it is fruity, woody, yet not without something greener to it too. The second sip feels more clearly bitter (as in: berries that are not quite ripe), yet also more acidic, perhaps with a strawberry-vinegar note. In fact, it is likely pomegranate seeds again. Finally, the wood from the nose settles down for good, and we are back at an exotic-wood sawmill. Finish: unexpectedly buttery to start with, it then turns jammy. This finish has berry-filled turnovers and blueberry jam, perhaps red- and blackcurrant too, and a bitterer side -- not quite rubber, though not too far off; some kind of blackcurrant paste would be my guess. Chewy blackcurrant sweets, distant liquorice allsorts, chewy and slightly bitter. The more one sips this, the sweeter it seems to become, even if it never shakes off its gentle bitterness. Another excellent First Cask. 8/10


Glen Grant 24yo 1976/2000 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, Sherry Cask, C#2886): nose: this one is far less woody from the get-go, or at least, differently so. Baked banana or plantain, sweet shortcrust, shortbread, and tame custard seem more welcoming. It is not too long before the whole is given a lick of teak oil, yet that happens in the background. Pretty soon, the wood is completely overrun by a wave of baked or stewed strawberry: strawberry turnovers, strawberry-filled warm waffles, simmering strawberry jam. Oh! Hhere is a notch of blackberry too. The main character is is strawberry, however. In the long run, caramelised manuka honey shows up. Or is it maple syrup? In any case, it seems poured on a heap of blueberries, fragrant and distinctive. In the distance, a fleeting glimpse of hard-boiled egg, only picked up by the subconsciousness. It is definitely there, though. Well, either that, or my nose is too close to my mouth. Lastly, a no-less-fleeting floral note appears stealthily, halfway between lilac and honeysuckle. Mouth: toasted and sweet, with a soft metallic edge that reminds tOMoH of grain whisky (Invergordon, especially, not sure why). Out of the blue and before I can start thinking about those toasted notes, easily-recognisable purple passion fruit comes out all guns blazing, acidic and a little bitter. Most puzzling, most appreciated. As for the initial toasted note, it was indeed toasted bread, toasted coriander seeds, liquorice root or aniseed, but as soon as the passion fruit storms the scene, all that vanishes virtually completely. Finish: for a moment, it feels more conventional, with the toasted notes making a grand entrance (liquorice boot laces and toasted aniseed). Soon, that silly passion fruit is back with a huge grin, and takes the tongue out to tango. Hot jam is here, blackberry more than strawberry, toasted exotic wood (ebony, in this one) and dark nuts (kluwak). But all that is in the shadow of passion fruit. Assertive, a little mischievous, if neither frankly boisterous, nor vulgar. Amazing. 9/10


Well, both drams fared better than the first (cask) time (here and here).



No comments:

Post a Comment