31 August 2021

31/08/2021 Glenrothes

Two Glenrothes in a month, can you believe it?


Glenrothes 21yo 1975/1996 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#6051): nose: youthful, green and lively, this has herbaceous notes aplenty, with vine leaves (dolmas), hay bales, but also kelp and other seaweeds. Then, we have dark ink, mushy, decaying parsley, kale and ivy. It also develops a more austere aspect, much more mineral; limestone, slate, graphite. Those are punctuated by lichen. Somehow, this nose also manages to emit laundry detergent, though it is not soapy in the slightest; one could safely assume it is flowers instead I suppose, yet it has that characteristic touch of fresh flowers and humid fabric that makes me think of laundry. Mind you, after a while, it resembles a fruity white wine, even. Later on, it is unripe-melon rind (cantaloupe), frolicking in damp clay. In the long run, the nose becomes more overtly fruity, with waxy mandarins -- and old wax too. Mouth: hot and, initially, earthy, it then turns more acidic and vaguely smoky, in a scorched-earth way, although weeks after the facts. Vine bark augmented with the velvety sweetness of green-grape flesh, a tiny bitter note of grape pips, and grape-pip oil too, as well as roasted hazelnuts. Perhaps a dollop of plasticine, too. The heat hints at fierce spearmint, rather than chilli, when taking a second sip, and that comes along a gentle cork-like feel: bitter, waxy, and covered in microscopic sugar crystals. The mouthfeel is on the thin, milky side. It has a distant note of wax, without any of the texture that goes with it. Finish: short and unexpectedly chocolate-y, here. Oh! The acidity and bitterness are well present, yet they are balanced by delicious, creamy milk chocolate. The second sip brings back some of the herbaceous character, without turning leafy; mint custard, rather than mint on its own, kale smoothie, mâche salad (valerianella locusta) doused with a simple dressing, grapefruit yoghurt, and chewy fruit sweets (Fruitella). Decent without being too special. Funny to see how different it felt on the night. Same score, all the same. 7/10

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